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Old 10-31-2016, 05:04 PM   #1701
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The hot tap on the laundry sink had developed a slow leak, so I spent an hour this afternoon wrestling with a *^^#^$% Moen faucet cartridge that must have been in there a good 20 years. Refused to budge. After a bent back thumbnail (damn that hurts) and lots of flying plastic debris, finally got it out after much:

- swearing
- vise gripping
- sharp chiselling
- liberal application of CLR

The last item is the pro tip of the day (mind you, I feel the swearing helped too). Quick trip to the local hardware store for a free replacement, 2 minutes to put back in and handle back on.

Now resting and basking in the g(l)ory with a nice couple of ounces of freezer chilled Vitamin R(um)
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:39 PM   #1702
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The toilet handle broke inside the toilet.
No problem I had a dual flush adapter I was thinking of installing, so the handle would be replaced.
I turned off the water at the tank and flushed it empty.
I did the replacement and all looked good.
I turned on the water and the tank filled, but when it was supposed to stop it didn't and I had not touched the filler thing, but the old shutoff must have let loose some crud that blocked open the filler thing shutoff.

Why didn't I just replace the handle

So off to Menard's for parts.
I put a new shut off valve and braided host to the new filler thing, and a new regular handle.
The dual flush thing was too hard to push the buttons.

Now its all new except the flapper, and I have a spare in the basement
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:52 AM   #1703
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Originally Posted by Koogie View Post
The hot tap on the laundry sink had developed a slow leak, so I spent an hour this afternoon wrestling with a *^^#^$% Moen faucet cartridge that must have been in there a good 20 years. Refused to budge. After a bent back thumbnail (damn that hurts) and lots of flying plastic debris, finally got it out after much:

- swearing
- vise gripping
- sharp chiselling
- liberal application of CLR
I had to replace a Moen shower cartridge a few months ago, it was stuck in there real good. They do make a special tool to remove the shower cartridge, cost a few bucks, not sure if it would work on a sink faucet.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:25 AM   #1704
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Now its all new except the flapper, and I have a spare in the basement
And you know where it is? You're way ahead of me. I've got hundreds of good, useful spare parts I can't find when I need them. Gotta get organized . . .
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:05 PM   #1705
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I recently bought a used ultrasonic cleaner on ebay and have used it to clean two motorcycle carbs with it. Works well on carbs as well as other items that will fit in the bath. Heating the bath to about 140 f is essential, so I added a teacup immersion heater to the setup.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:22 PM   #1706
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I had to replace a Moen shower cartridge a few months ago, it was stuck in there real good. They do make a special tool to remove the shower cartridge, cost a few bucks, not sure if it would work on a sink faucet.
There is also a special grease to apply to the cartridge to make them easier to remove next time. I also had a heck of a time getting one out in tub faucet.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:39 PM   #1707
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And you know where it is? You're way ahead of me. I've got hundreds of good, useful spare parts I can't find when I need them. Gotta get organized . . .
Let me know when you get a system worked out that you can remember.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:10 PM   #1708
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I had to replace a Moen shower cartridge a few months ago, it was stuck in there real good. They do make a special tool to remove the shower cartridge, cost a few bucks, not sure if it would work on a sink faucet.
Yeah, I watched a few Youtube videos featuring that tool. I guess I will pick one up cheap next time I am at Harbor Freight (Princess Auto). This probably won't be the last occurrence as I have suddenly noticed half the fixtures in the house are Moen.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:15 AM   #1709
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Recently, I had to remove a wheel off my class C RV. With one nut, I immediately knew there was going to be a problem. Indeed the guy at Discount Tire did use an impact wrench to tighten the nut, stripping the thread on the lug.

After about one hour of swearing and cursing and using my impact wrench, I was able to remove the nut. I alternated the wrench turning direction to work the nut loose, while applying a liberal amount of a lubricant called Liquid Wrench.

To remove the lug, I thought I would have to remove the hub and bring it to a machine shop, or to throw it through Discount Tire store window. It turned out the lug fell out the other side of the hub with just a tap of a hammer. Son of a gun!

The construction of the front hub is such that I did not even have to take the hub off the knuckle. The replacement lug and nut were $6 for both at Napa.

Later, with the wheel already reinstalled on the hub, I was able to reach in through the wheel to install the lug, and did not even have to remove the wheel. The press-fit clearance was not tight, and the lug did not have to be pressed in. Just tightening the nut was enough to pull the lug in snug.

Now, Costco has never done this to me. They just don't work on tall vehicles like my class C.

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Old 11-06-2016, 10:28 AM   #1710
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Recently, I had to remove a wheel off my class C RV. With one nut, I immediately knew there was going to be a problem. Indeed the guy at Discount Tire did use an impact wrench to tighten the nut, stripping the thread on the lug.

After about one hour of swearing and cursing and using my impact wrench, I was able to remove the nut. I alternated the wrench turning direction to work the nut loose, while applying a liberal amount of a lubricant called Liquid Wrench.

To remove the lug, I thought I would have to remove the hub and bring it to a machine shop, or to throw it through Discount Tire store window. It turned out the lug fell out the other side of the hub with just a tap of a hammer. Son of a gun!

The construction of the front hub is such that I did not even have to take the hub off the knuckle. The replacement lug and nut were $6 for both at Napa.

Later, with the wheel already reinstalled on the hub, I was able to reach in through the wheel to install the lug, and did not even have to remove the wheel. The press-fit clearance was not tight, and the lug did not have to be pressed in. Just tightening the nut was enough to pull the lug in snug.

Now, Costco has never done this to me. They just don't work on tall vehicles like my class C.


I would bring the stripped lug stud to Discount Tire and drop it on their desk, but that's just me.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:12 AM   #1711
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Recently, I had to remove a wheel off my class C RV. With one nut, I immediately knew there was going to be a problem. Indeed the guy at Discount Tire did use an impact wrench to tighten the nut, stripping the thread on the lug.
The tech at DT broke a stud while installing new tires for my wife. He blamed the problem on the stud and told her to take it to the dealer up the road to get a new stud. We were traveling that weekend so we had to drive with a missing stud and got it replaced at our destination.

The DT website has a chart that shows a recommended torque of 110 ft-lbs for my car. I have never broken a stud when I apply my ~200lb hulk standing on a ~1.5ft lug wrench, so I suspect that the DT tech (a) does not use a torque wrench, and (b) has his impact wrench torque set at something over 300 ft-lbs.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:34 AM   #1712
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I would bring the stripped lug stud to Discount Tire and drop it on their desk, but that's just me.
I should have done that, but already threw the stripped stud away.

But, but, but I have opened only two hubs. I still have some chances with the remaining two hubs. Arghh!

PS. The torque spec is 140 ft-lbs on my RV. And yes, I do have a torque wrench.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:45 PM   #1713
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The tech at DT broke a stud while installing new tires for my wife. He blamed the problem on the stud and told her to take it to the dealer up the road to get a new stud. We were traveling that weekend so we had to drive with a missing stud and got it replaced at our destination.

The DT website has a chart that shows a recommended torque of 110 ft-lbs for my car. I have never broken a stud when I apply my ~200lb hulk standing on a ~1.5ft lug wrench, so I suspect that the DT tech (a) does not use a torque wrench, and (b) has his impact wrench torque set at something over 300 ft-lbs.
Especially considering the consequences, I am surprised that shops are so loose with this.

I've also done the calculations of my weight (or some other known weight) on x.x foot long bar to estimate the torque. Finally bought a torque wrench, and haven't had the need to use it yet. But since it was from Harbor freight, I actually did check it with some known weights - it seemed pretty close.

I'm not a mechanical engineer, and some what weak/forgotten basic physics, but I think the speed and inertia of those impact wrenches come into play. They might be set for X ft/lbs, but they go fast, and I think they actually have a much greater impact force (hey, that's probably why they call them 'impact wrenches'! ).

Yes, Costco seems to do it right, and instruct you to come back a few days later for a torque check. I like that. Four wheels is all that is between you and a bad day.

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Old 11-07-2016, 08:02 AM   #1714
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..........
Yes, Costco seems to do it right, and instruct you to come back a few days later for a torque check. ............
I bought a set of tires from Costco recently and they called me later to remind me to bring it back for a torque check. That is the good news. The bad news is that they had some of the lugs so tight, I had to use a breaker bar on them to get them loose.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:20 AM   #1715
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I bought a set of tires from Costco recently and they called me later to remind me to bring it back for a torque check. That is the good news. The bad news is that they had some of the lugs so tight, I had to use a breaker bar on them to get them loose.
Whenever I've seen them, they use a manual torque wrench. Though of course, that doesn't mean they always do. But it seems to be SOP for them.

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Old 11-07-2016, 08:22 AM   #1716
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One can manually overshoot on a torque wrench too. However, it is nothing as bad as with an impact wrench.

PS. Some places may use a torque limiting socket or shaft (torque sticks) with an impact wrench. These work by flexing and absorbing the impulses from the impact driver when the nuts are sufficiently tight. I wonder how accurate they are.

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Whenever I've seen them, they use a manual torque wrench. Though of course, that doesn't mean they always do. But it seems to be SOP for them.

-ERD50
PPS. About Costco, I once watch them, and they have a 2nd guy double checking all lugs, also with a torque wrench, to make sure all lugs are properly tightened. Overtightening is one thing, but not tightening some lugs may get someone killed.

Next time, watch them to see if your local Costco store does that.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:50 AM   #1717
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The washing machine was making a lot of noise and seemed a bit wobbly on the spin cycle. After about a month of this, I figured I should look at it.

Turns out it was these 6" long rubber shock absorbers, all 4 were broken.
Only had to take off the front and top to reach everything, pretty easy fix.
Total cost was $19 incl delivery.
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:42 AM   #1718
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The washing machine was making a lot of noise and seemed a bit wobbly on the spin cycle. After about a month of this, I figured I should look at it.

Turns out it was these 6" long rubber shock absorbers, all 4 were broken.
Only had to take off the front and top to reach everything, pretty easy fix.
Total cost was $19 incl delivery.
Great fix, and thanks for adding to my acumen on washing machines!
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #1719
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Getting occasional static on my (gasp) land line phone line. Pick up phone, hear clear loud dial tone, but every 10 seconds or so, you can hear a brief "scritch" of static. During a phone conversation, occasionally get the classic background static. Some phone calls have no static at all. Happens on upstairs and downstairs phones. The house is 30 years old and has original phone lines and outside box. Went out to the grey plastic phone box outside on the wall near the electric meter, opened up the "customer access" door, and found lots of cobwebby junk, dirt, and even a dead vine that had grown into it. Lots of multicolored wires in there, most of them looking very thin and fragile. A couple thick grey wires. Haven't done much to it yet, just cleared out some easily accessible cobweb junk. Still researching online. Closed it up for now. Phone still works. The phone lines here are underground. Never had squirrels in the house but have had mice.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:06 AM   #1720
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We had a similar issue for a few years, and I eliminated the obvious issues of each phone wire by shaking/pulling/twisting each phone wire (attached to phone) while on the phone to see if I could create the interference.

Finally I plugged a phone into the connection where the phone line comes into the house (it should be just inside the house opposite the outside phone box). I found the same interference here, which is important as it means it is outside and is the problem of the phone company.

They came, after warning me if the problem was inside the house it was $80/hr to fix. Naturally they found the issue, a few blocks from my house in the phone box where the wires from my house ended. It was mice had chewed the wires inside the box and made a nest.
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