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01-30-2015, 04:41 PM
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#721
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keim
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Now that is a nice ride!!!
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01-30-2015, 04:44 PM
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#722
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Moscow
Posts: 1,572
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It is fun in the old car. I imagine its wonderful for bikers.
__________________
You can't enlighten the unconscious.
But you can hit'em upside the head a few times to make sure they are really out...
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01-30-2015, 04:46 PM
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#723
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Moscow
Posts: 1,572
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__________________
You can't enlighten the unconscious.
But you can hit'em upside the head a few times to make sure they are really out...
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01-30-2015, 07:40 PM
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#724
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kerrville,Tx
Posts: 3,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronstar
Replaced a toilet tank fill valve. I wish all repairs were this easy.
Sent from my iPad using Early Retirement Forum
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A question did the toilet have a metal or flex fill line, that makes a tremendous difference in how hard it is to fix. I had a plumber in to change out the 2 metal pipes with flex lines and put new fill valves in so that in the future it would be much easier to change (No need to mess with the tank bolts then)
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01-30-2015, 07:54 PM
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#725
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 16,601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meierlde
A question did the toilet have a metal or flex fill line, that makes a tremendous difference in how hard it is to fix. I had a plumber in to change out the 2 metal pipes with flex lines and put new fill valves in so that in the future it would be much easier to change (No need to mess with the tank bolts then)
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It was a flex line, so I just loosened the flex line, took out the old valve assembly and popped the one in. I know what you mean about the metal lines. They are a pain to deal with
Sent from my iPad using Early Retirement Forum
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01-30-2015, 10:21 PM
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#726
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Spending the Kids Inheritance and living in Chicago
Posts: 17,099
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Our dryer was screeching and squealing for a couple of years. I had previously wiggled the belt and it had quieted down for some weeks. But this time I let squeal and screech although you could hear it in the entire house for the 2 years !
Suddenly there was wonderful silence... Until DW said the dryer is broke.
So I checked youtube and went down and opened it up, found a broken belt.
Watched the videos to be sure I knew what to do, and they suggested the screeching was the drum bearing.
So back to the basement, pulled out the drum and found it was super worn, and had cut through part of itself (its in 2 parts that fit together). This totally explained the loudness.
I ordered the parts from partSelect which has great videos on repairs of the parts. It was $100 , once I got the parts in 3 business days, it took about 1 -> 1.5 hours to replace everything and put it back together.
Tested it quickly and it all worked super quietly... Now I can't tell if DW is doing the laundry anymore
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01-31-2015, 03:32 PM
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#727
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 584
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Our old home, now a rental, wouldn't keep the pilot lit in the water heater. So Wednesday I replaced the thermocouple. Today, we enlarged the access panel and put on a new door. Removed the washer/dryer. Replaced the water heater and some nearby plumbing. Replaced the floor and subfloor. Reinstalled washer and dryer with new hoses and cleaned the lint from dryer and dryer vent lines. Takes a lot of work to keep that pilot light lit!
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01-31-2015, 03:35 PM
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#728
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meierlde
A question did the toilet have a metal or flex fill line, that makes a tremendous difference in how hard it is to fix. I had a plumber in to change out the 2 metal pipes with flex lines and put new fill valves in so that in the future it would be much easier to change (No need to mess with the tank bolts then)
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Usually it is very easy to change these to flex lines. I think I've see one house where I had to replace the shutoff to change the line type. All the others I've found that the new lines with the rubber grommets on the end work just fine.
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01-31-2015, 03:44 PM
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#729
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kerrville,Tx
Posts: 3,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkTinkerer
Usually it is very easy to change these to flex lines. I think I've see one house where I had to replace the shutoff to change the line type. All the others I've found that the new lines with the rubber grommets on the end work just fine.
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In my house the shutoffs had to be changed, and that took the plumber a bit of work. At the same time I had a faucet that started leaking changed, and changed that to flex lines also (The house date from 1986 btw)
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01-31-2015, 04:10 PM
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#730
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 3,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelover
I've purchased a $35 Harbor Freight tool set to leave at such person's homes for my convenience. It is fairly complete for simple tasks. You can use the 20% coupon on top of the (continuous) sale price.
Digital Savings and Coupons from Harbor Freight
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+1 I've purchased a couple of these sets and am quite happy with them. One in the Jeep and one in the plow truck. I use them quite a bit with no problem. The screw drivers are even holding up reasonably well.
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01-31-2015, 06:12 PM
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#731
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkTinkerer
Our old home, now a rental, wouldn't keep the pilot lit in the water heater. So Wednesday I replaced the thermocouple. Today, we enlarged the access panel and put on a new door. Removed the washer/dryer. Replaced the water heater and some nearby plumbing. Replaced the floor and subfloor. Reinstalled washer and dryer with new hoses and cleaned the lint from dryer and dryer vent lines. Takes a lot of work to keep that pilot light lit!
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Wow! Thats quite a task to keep a pilot light up and running! Gotta love when a plan works out...I would enjoy an adult beverage after this excercise =)
__________________
Freed at 49. You only live once - live it
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01-31-2015, 06:49 PM
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#732
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 10,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls99
Got a check engine light on my winter beater truck. My scanner identified P0301. #1 plug misfire. Removed plug, broken insulator. Replaced all 8 plugs. The other seven looked normal. Chances are that cylinder is having some other problems.
Either partially clogged injector or valve issues letting oil in, or rings. Did not do compression check. Too lazy. maybe in the spring time. On the next dry day might give it an Italian tuneup. It will either kill it or cure it.
Since it is past 190,000 miles, not too concerned.
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My check engine said P0141...O2 sensor. Spent a good bit of time trying to figure out if I needed the California or Ex. California sensor (CARB one is $50 more). I pulled the seat and looked at the connector, and it turns out both parts have the same connector
So after wasting a bunch of time on the modern internet machine with no clue provided (just a bunch of misdirection), I finally went old school and called the stealership...they said the only way to tell is to enter the VIN into their system. I called out the VIN and learned I have a US version, so I ordered the $45 one instead of the $95 one from Amazon. Not yet a "fix", but without the preliminaries I'd never get around to the fix!
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01-31-2015, 07:29 PM
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#733
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sengsational
My check engine said P0141...O2 sensor. Spent a good bit of time trying to figure out if I needed the California or Ex. California sensor (CARB one is $50 more). I pulled the seat and looked at the connector, and it turns out both parts have the same connector
So after wasting a bunch of time on the modern internet machine with no clue provided (just a bunch of misdirection), I finally went old school and called the stealership...they said the only way to tell is to enter the VIN into their system. I called out the VIN and learned I have a US version, so I ordered the $45 one instead of the $95 one from Amazon. Not yet a "fix", but without the preliminaries I'd never get around to the fix!
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I always spend time confirming the problem. In my case I have a few diganostic tools which let me observe some details while the engine is running. I was able to watch misfires on #1 plug. Then after pulling the plug the broken insulator inside was evident. I also have a few other ways, like oscilloscope with inductive pickup to narrow down primary and secondary ignition issues. Or just plaing looking under the hood in a totally dark garage, and see corona and spark in places they should not be.
In 02 sensors the, the problem may in fact be the sensor orsome other fueling issue, or continuity of wiring and bad connections in plugs. Hopefully in your case that is exactly the problem that code refers to the heater of the 02 sensor. The problem can be ascertained by disconnecting the plug and measuring with an ohm meter.
It can be a ROYAL PITA but far less so than actually changing the sensor. Which excersize at times requires a blowtorch to make it let go from the threads. . And remembering righty tighty upside down under a jacked up car and having the right socket wrench.
__________________
There must be moderation in everything, including moderation.
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01-31-2015, 09:36 PM
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#734
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Spending the Kids Inheritance and living in Chicago
Posts: 17,099
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Couple of years ago I changed the O2 sensor on DW car. I used a generic replacement part.
I didn't have to use a torch, just ran the car a bit to warm up but not make too hot the exhaust, then applied a lot of penetrating oil and went inside to read for 1/2 hour to give the oil time to soak. It came off pretty easy.
Also manual said to remove passenger seat to disconnect the wires, but folks on internet said just push the wire though the gromment so its under the car, and unplug it, then shove back in when done. A lot easier.
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01-31-2015, 09:41 PM
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#735
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Spending the Kids Inheritance and living in Chicago
Posts: 17,099
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I just installed a gas range in the kitchen. Have done a bunch of propane things at my camp, so figured Natural gas can't be too different.
Didn't figure on the standards changing, had to move to 1/2 instead of 3/8 nipple and flexible pipe.
Ended up making 3 extra trips to the hardware store, one was a lesson I will remember forever, which is always buy the 60" flexible pipe. Its amazing how short 30" appears when you want to be between the wall and the back of the range during hookup. Size does matter
And buy the leak detector liquid as it makes you feel safe and confident to test it a lot, and even test the factory connections near the range regulator. That stuff really sticks.
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02-02-2015, 02:13 PM
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#736
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,796
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HAd been putting off tightening up a really annoying loose light bulb assembly in a lamp, due to the job looking very,very awkward, needing weird unavailable tools, etc. Decided to spend at least 2 minutes just staring at it, waiting for the answer to come. Had to rip off part of the felt on the base of the lamp to get access to the hole. Hole too small for hand. Nut that needed to be secured was way up inside the lamp base. Like 2 feet! Finally Mac Guivered it by using long thin piece of wood which I awkwardly torqued against the nut and was miraculously able to turn the screw from above slowly, slowly until tight!! All snugged up now, lamp working normally, no more wobbly loose awkward nonsense going on. Amazing what one can do when bored enough.
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02-10-2015, 03:21 PM
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#737
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Moscow
Posts: 1,572
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Still working on the Grundig 9068. Have moved on to the attached turntable. It is a Perpetuum Ebner Rex Deluxe from 1958. Motor wasn't spinning. So, I took it apart and cleaned and oiled it. Also replaced belts, and rebuilt the idler wheel. Running now, but slow. That will be next. http://youtu.be/Q0biIZF8thM
__________________
You can't enlighten the unconscious.
But you can hit'em upside the head a few times to make sure they are really out...
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02-10-2015, 04:11 PM
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#738
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Les Bois
Posts: 5,761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keim
It is fun in the old car. I imagine its wonderful for bikers.
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I was up there a few months ago and drove down from Spokane at night in the rain - total white knuckle down that thing.
__________________
You can't be a retirement plan actuary without a retirement plan, otherwise you lose all credibility...
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02-10-2015, 04:25 PM
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#739
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Moscow
Posts: 1,572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Hitter
I was up there a few months ago and drove down from Spokane at night in the rain - total white knuckle down that thing.
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You drove down the OLD Lewiston grade at night in the rain? Or the NEW Lewiston grade?
The old one would be a little exciting at night in the rain.
__________________
You can't enlighten the unconscious.
But you can hit'em upside the head a few times to make sure they are really out...
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02-10-2015, 04:28 PM
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#740
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Les Bois
Posts: 5,761
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I'm not sure, I think I was on 95 the whole time - there's another way down that hill?
__________________
You can't be a retirement plan actuary without a retirement plan, otherwise you lose all credibility...
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