Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[ls99]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38Chevy454 Replaced master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders on my 68 GTO. The master was leaking, and the wheel cylinders were not in spite of being very old same as master cyl. Since the system needs bleeding due to master cyl, I just replaced the wheel cylinders as well.

May have had to anyway. I usually find that bleeder screws are rusted in place. Sometimes a blow torch will loosen them, sometimes it won't. But I guess you knew that already

[travelover]

Spent the last couple of days installing a new radio with a display screen and backup camera in my SUV. The old radio worked fine, but I thought it would be nice to have a back up camera and to be able to play my iPod through the radio.

The worst part was stringing the power and video cables from the camera up through the lift gate hinge point and up to the front. The second worse part was mounting the radio itself. After market radios seem to be standardized, but manufacturers' radios are not, so there is a market for all kinds of crazy adapters to make them fit. I had to enlarge the hole in my dash, then found that the "adapter" was designed to click into place exactly once. Any subsequent removal required "removal of the instrument panel". I wasn't feeling that lucky, so I ended up bending up some aluminum to make my own adapter, which is removable.

My only disappointment is that the device has to boot up every time the engine is started, so it takes a while before the reverse camera is ready to use.

I also use a camera on the back of my travel trailer and will wire it so I can observe that camera as I drive.

[NW-Bound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by samclem ... We rarely use our garbage disposal, most solid stuff goes right into the trash can. I think this significantly reduces the chances for drain problems and it's just as fast/convenient. I don't count the garbage disposal among the major advances in home technology.

+1

After replacing the garbage disposal for the umpteenth time, I took it out and we did not miss it. We also rarely use our dishwasher. Washing dishes by hand does not take much longer than having to rinse the plates, then load and unload the machine. Washing clothes by hand, now that's a chore!

[NW-Bound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound The expensive Pfister kitchen faucet I installed less than 2 years ago leaked at the handle. I was cursing at the thought of having to crawl under the counter, besides having to spend another $200 for a replacement, when the thought of repairing it crossed my mind. At the Web site of Pfister, I learned that the faucet got a lifetime warranty. Nice. So, I submitted a claim, and they sent me a replacement valve cartridge. I had not done this before, so fumbled for a bit before I figured out how to remove the decorative ring around the big nut holding in the cartridge. It got frozen due to the calcium deposit from the leak, and now got ugly scars from my plier. Now, I will have to see if I can get a replacement part from them...

A follow-up on the Pfister faucet.

I updated the claim on the leaky cartridge with a request for the decorative ring that got badly nicked on removal. On close examination, it proved to be a plastic part that was metallized. I sent a photo of it to be sure they would send me the right replacement. Yep, I got it in the mail a few days later.

Before reinstalling it, I smeared gobs of petroleum jelly onto the threads to make sure it will come off easily next time.

But now, another Pfister faucet in my bath vanity leaks!

[NW-Bound]

A week ago, my fridge ran out of ice. And the fridge panel flashed a code about the ice maker malfunction. Sigh...

OK, so this big 30 cu.ft. fridge is more than 12 years old. Maybe time to get a new one? Nah, just a new ice maker. GE wants $100, while on eBay I can get one for $50.

But, but, but before it stopped making ice, the ice maker had been turning out bitty ice pieces that looked more like slivers than crescents. Maybe it was just starved of water. Hmm... Could it be?

I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up?

The fridge water dispenser failed a few years ago, and I have not bothered to fix it, else I would know if the water flow got stopped. Ah, it's no harm to replace the filter anyway, whether it's bad or not.

A replacement filter arrived after I spent $25 on eBay (shipping included). And now my ice bucket is full! So, that was the problem.

Life is good again once I have ice, despite the 95F temperature outside this late in the summer.

[samclem]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up?

Good job. Since you really don't need the filter, you could try to just connect the "in" and "out" lines where the filter connects in the 'fridge (or make a bypass using an existing filter casing from which you've removed all the filter element stuff). This will not only prevent this from happening again but might also save your icemaker: The solenoid on the icemaker valve has to stay energized until the tray is full of water. It can burn out well before it should if it must stay energized for a long time because the flow rate to the icemaker is reduced (low water pressure/kinked line/blocked filter, etc)

[aja8888]

Daughter's Amana clothes dryer quit heating. Replaced the High-Low temp control above the heating element, the blown thermal fuse and all is good. Spent all of $24. Job took all of 30 minutes.

Replaced the air and cabin filters in the 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe (DW's car). Also changed oil and filter, added washer fluid, added air to tires. All this at 36K miles. Tire rotation is due at 40K, at which time I will look at the brake pads.

[Ronstar]

Clothes dryer problem here also. DW noticed a squealing sound coming from the dryer. I found a 3" wood screw wedged between the drum and dryer frame. got the screw out and everything runs fine. Then for fun I fired up the leaf blower and blew out the dryer vent duct.

[Texas Proud]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound A week ago, my fridge ran out of ice. And the fridge panel flashed a code about the ice maker malfunction. Sigh... OK, so this big 30 cu.ft. fridge is more than 12 years old. Maybe time to get a new one? Nah, just a new ice maker. GE wants $100, while on eBay I can get one for $50. But, but, but before it stopped making ice, the ice maker had been turning out bitty ice pieces that looked more like slivers than crescents. Maybe it was just starved of water. Hmm... Could it be? I have not replaced the fridge built-in water filter. Not once in its 12-year life. Heck, I have always had an RO filter, so what's there for another filter to do? But what if the filter gets finally all clogged up? The fridge water dispenser failed a few years ago, and I have not bothered to fix it, else I would know if the water flow got stopped. Ah, it's no harm to replace the filter anyway, whether it's bad or not. A replacement filter arrived after I spent $25 on eBay (shipping included). And now my ice bucket is full! So, that was the problem. Life is good again once I have ice, despite the 95F temperature outside this late in the summer.

Before going with Samclem's suggestion... I would just suggest taking out the filter and see if it works.... it does for my fridge.... not filter needed at all....

[NW-Bound]

Rerouting the plumbing to bypass the filter or punching through its internal layers is not at all easy, considering the filter design and its location at the upper corner of a 32" deep fridge . Here's a Web photo of it.

And I did not try to open the water when the filter was out, thinking I would flood the fridge interior. Apparently, TexasProud's fridge has an automatic bypass valve, but I do not know if mine has that or not.



This filter is claimed to do all kinds of "good stuff", like catching cysts, heavy metals, etc... As it still gets clogged up being downstream from my RO filter, though it took 12 years, it is doing something.

Anyway, I am cheap so bought an aftermarket filter, but a genuine GE filter would set me back $50. They recommend replacing it every 6 months. So, if I followed that, at a 4% WR I would need to set aside $2500 in my stash just to feed filters to this fridge.

No way! But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

[samclem]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

Sounds like you've got things fixed. I've got a GE fridge and have something like this in place of the filter. It's just a bypass cap and it works great, frees up more room in the fridge, and allows use of a "stock" filter outside the fridge that is a lot cheaper to replace (like you,I have an RO system with prefilters that trap cysts, etc). Anyway, something to think about. I've heard it's not a good idea to leave a carbon filter in place for longer than 6 months to a year (even in a refrigerator) as they can become hosts to bacteria.

[Texas Proud]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound Rerouting the plumbing to bypass the filter or punching through its internal layers is not at all easy, considering the filter design and its location at the upper corner of a 32" deep fridge . Here's a Web photo of it. And I did not try to open the water when the filter was out, thinking I would flood the fridge interior. Apparently, TexasProud's fridge has an automatic bypass valve, but I do not know if mine has that or not. This filter is claimed to do all kinds of "good stuff", like catching cysts, heavy metals, etc... As it still gets clogged up being downstream from my RO filter, though it took 12 years, it is doing something. Anyway, I am cheap so bought an aftermarket filter, but a genuine GE filter would set me back $50. They recommend replacing it every 6 months. So, if I followed that, at a 4% WR I would need to set aside $2500 in my stash just to feed filters to this fridge. No way! But once every 12 years, I can afford it.

Yes, there is a bypass.... mine is at the bottom of the fridge and you can pull it out without turning off the water...

I will admit that I did not wait 12 years, but only 5.... then small black pieces started showing up in the water and ice...


Funny thing is that we have a RO system at the sink that is MUCH better at filtering water.... but DW and the kids thinks the fridge filter is 'better'.... I just shake my head....

[twolfy]

Wow some really involved repairs going on here by many of you. Kudos for investigating and tackling those fixes. Just a small one here today. Replaced bathroom exhaust fan motor.


Sent from my iPad using Early Retirement Forum

[NW-Bound]

Thanks to Samclem and TexasProud for mentioning the possibility of bypassing the fridge water filter.

I looked and indeed could have gotten a cap to install in lieu of the filter. Price from eBay: $10, and it's made by GE!

I need to look into mentioned bacteria problem with an old filter. If bacteria is going to grow, why does it need 6 months? It could develop in a much quicker time than that.

[John Galt III]

Maintenance on the gf's Hyundai Elantra. I changed the oil and filter. All was well until I noticed a slow oil drip the next day. Got under it with flashlight. The leak is coming from the drain plug (bolt). Absolutely dry above the plug, and even above the pan. Dry under the new filter. But a nice fat drop hanging off the plug. It has a crush washer. I reused the existing crush washer. Hmmm. Maybe the crush washer has to be brand new each oil change? Most cars I change oil on don't even have crush washers, but if they do, I just reuse them, and they don't start leaking. Hmmm...

[aja8888]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III Maintenance on the gf's Hyundai Elantra. I changed the oil and filter. All was well until I noticed a slow oil drip the next day. Got under it with flashlight. The leak is coming from the drain plug (bolt). Absolutely dry above the plug, and even above the pan. Dry under the new filter. But a nice fat drop hanging off the plug. It has a crush washer. I reused the existing crush washer. Hmmm. Maybe the crush washer has to be brand new each oil change? Most cars I change oil on don't even have crush washers, but if they do, I just reuse them, and they don't start leaking. Hmmm...

John: Yes, new crush washers are a good thing. Or, you can install one of these:

Fumoto USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves

[bjorn2bwild]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound I need to look into mentioned bacteria problem with an old filter. If bacteria is going to grow, why does it need 6 months? It could develop in a much quicker time than that.

1) The carbon is activated with high temperature steam or gas - should be relatively microbe free.

2) Public water source should also be relatively clean and low in nutrients. otherwise lots of stuff would be growing within the plumbing.

3) The in-fridge filter is cold, slowing any growth.

As a renter, I usually just remove the filter. Every brand refrigerator I have done this with continues to work normally. I have pulled the filter, removed the 'o' rings and boiled for ~30min, let cool and reuse - the label will wrinkle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III I reused the existing crush washer. Hmmm. Maybe the crush washer has to be brand new each oil change? Most cars I change oil on don't even have crush washers, but if they do, I just reuse them, and they don't start leaking. Hmmm...

If the washer is soft metal and in good condition, I make a custom gasket each time with a hole punch and treated paper gasket sheet. I re-use the plastic washers as long as they look good.

[samclem]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjorn2bwild 2) Public water source should also be relatively clean and low in nutrients. otherwise lots of stuff would be growing within the plumbing.

Just one observation: The residual chlorine in city water is what keeps the pipes relatively free of bacteria/"biofilm". Obviously, it's not truly sanitized or 100% bacteria free, but it's clean enough to drink. But NW-Bound has an RO system, and if using city water, they usually require a carbon filter before the RO membrane to remove the chlorine (as chlorine destroys the most common residential membrane materials). In such a system there's virtually zero residual chlorine in the water when it flows through the tubing to his fridge and into that carbon filter therein.

A study done for the EPA on granulated activated carbon (GAC) filters. Bacteria colonized them and the water coming out of them was higher in bacteria than the incoming tap water.

It's probably overkill, but I have a UV "sterilizer" as the last step in my home water treatment setup to zap germs that make it past the other stuff. But I'm on a home well, which adds quite a few wildcards compared to being on city water.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by samclem ... It's probably overkill, but I have a UV "sterilizer" as the last step in my home water treatment setup to zap germs that make it past the other stuff. But I'm on a home well, which adds quite a few wildcards compared to being on city water.

I'm starting to wonder if UV is overkill or not on well water. I've been having problems with my RO unit water having a skunky smell, sometimes just a month or to after sanitizing the unit and replacing the carbon filter (it normally would go 6 months before a filter replacement).

I started adding a few drops of chlorine bleach to the inlet tube once in a while. Seemed to help, but now we seem to get some occasional 'musty' sorts of odors in the water. Maybe a UV filter on the inlet would kill anything going in? I also thought about mounting the whole thing in my 'beer' fridge, so cold would reduce growth.

Maybe I should just replace the RO membrane? It's the original, must be close to 10 years old, but the TDS reading are good (> 95% reduction from the softened water at the input). But you can't sanitize the RO membrane with bleach, so maybe that's where the problem is?

A new RO membrane isn't that expensive, I should probably just do that first.

-ERD50

[bjorn2bwild]

Quote:

Originally Posted by samclem But NW-Bound has an RO system, and if using city water, they usually require a carbon filter before the RO membrane to remove the chlorine (as chlorine destroys the most common residential membrane materials). In such a system there's virtually zero residual chlorine in the water when it flows through the tubing to his fridge and into that carbon filter therein.

Ah, in that case I would bypass the RO filter and run city water to the fridge line in order to buy a little more time.