Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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The parts from my online jobber arrived Friday, so today I spent most of the afternoon under my '95 BMW rejiggering the exhaust hangers. An aftermarket hanger (Eberspaecher, normally a quality manufacturer) broke, so now I'm going with BMW factory parts.
 
Cleaned the throttle body on my '93 f150. I also cleaned the FI system using the brake booster vacuum line running to the intake manifold.

Any one have a favorite FI cleaner? I have used Berryman's and Seafoam in the past.

I like Techron concentrate by Chevron.
 
Update. 100 dollars later and The furnace is back to working. Issue was with the low voltage line from the Air handling board to the thermostat. I caused the issue with the thermostat replacement. That was quickly found. 10 dollars for another new 24 v transformer. - this time the furnace man put a fused line in place ( smart).

Then I asked him to go ahead and do a full safety inspection as it had been 3 years. He and I about an hour + disassembling the furnace burners and getting a good inspection of that and of the heat exchanger - Found 1 of 4 burners wasn't firing consistently, thermocouple also very dirty so pilot took quite a while to come on ... Tested the incoming propane pressure etc. Was worth calling an expert and in this case a good reminder to inspect the furnace once every year or two heading into the heating season.
 
10 dollars for another new 24 v transformer. - this time the furnace man put a fused line in place ( smart).
Wow, you got a technician who truly understands how the stuff works and made an improvement to the stock installation. Don't lose his name and phone number, that's a keeper.
Now, what >I'd< do is leave a note to myself (put inside the service panel?) about the modification ("check this fuse if furnace acts up, we put it in to protect the 24VDC transformer. Replacement fuse is 3A, Acme model 1234"). I've got these notes hidden all over the place--where to find the replacement filters for the water system, what type of washers go in a faucet, what color paint is on a wall, etc.

Similar idea: If a device has a warranty, I leave the receipt with the device. E.g. I taped the receipt for our microwave oven to the back of it, with a note to myself about the length of the warranty. If it crumps out I won't have to wonder when I bought it, how long the warranty is, and where the receipt is. If it's not practical to leave the paper receipt with the machine (e.g. lawnmower) I write on the device with permanent marker where the receipt is filed and when the device goes out of warranty. (With the mower I also make a note of the oil capacity and type, spark plug part #, etc).

As my memory has started to lose its edge, I've adapted with tricks . . .
 
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....... already been through a couple transformers and a new air handling control board. What is strange is that the 120V side is what is burning out, not the 24V side on the transformer. Both control boards (original and new) resulted in same burned transformer. So, something is causing the 120V side of the transformer to get hot and burn up. I can ohm out the 24V side and it shows 12 ohms... the 120V side is open circuit. Can also smell transformer burn smell.... same on all three transformers (original and 2 purchased transformers).........

For quite a few years now, 120 VAC power transformers have built-in fusible links on the primary side. The fusible links are actually short lengths of smaller diameter wire that are tack-welded onto both ends of the primary winding. The other end of the links attach to the pins of the bobbin.

In an extreme overcurrent condition, whether caused by excessive load on the secondary, or a short in the primary winding, the smaller diameter wire will melt open. A non-repairable event.

My lawn sprinkler timer had a wall-wart power transformer to supply 24 VAC to the controller. The controller was SUPPOSED to be short-circuit protected from any short in sprinkler circuit sector wiring or valve solenoid. They did this by using a Triac in each sector as the on-off device, and a small resistance in series to develop potential over to monitor sector current, and shut down the Triac if sector current was too high.

However, when a valve solenoid suffered a winding short, it blew the Triac, and blew the fusible links in the wall wart. I had some spare sector circuit positions in the controller, so after I replaced the valve solenoid, I moved that sprinkler sector over to an unused one. I replaced the wall wart with a much larger multi-amp heavy-duty one I ordered from James Electronics. And for the real touch, I drilled a hole in the controller's front panel, and put in a 2 Amp push-to-reset circuit breaker I had into the secondary circuit.

The circuit breaker I had scavenged out of the previous controller... which was an electro-mechanical monster that put on a show when a sector ran. It had a big plastic wheel (think Ferris Wheel) that had little time knobs around the edge for each sector. That would connect and time the sectors, and there was a motor to run it. There were other wheels that were the day of week and time of day dials, and they had motors. And there was a bright yellow light that was on when a sector was running. There was a test mode, where you could check your programming, it would turn the big wheel and run each sector for maybe 15 seconds or so, then move on to the next one, a sped-up clock effect. The test mode was fun to watch! What a contraption!
But eventually, a motor was getting iffy, it would stall sometimes, so I replaced it with a smaller all-electronic sprinkler controller with LC Display and one knob, three push buttons, and a slide switch. No more show. But the old monster's 2 Amp circuit breaker lives on!
 
Your recent repair?

I love to do it myself. But I continue to learn the lesson that a little knowledge is dangerous. Then I come back to to .... "But how else will I expand my knowledge unless I TRY !! ".

It was a 200 dollar lesson but I learned by watching furnace man how to clean my thermocouple and inspect the burners and what to look for in terms of most likely faults. The fused secondary was a good idea that I should have, but didn't think of.

He also explained how the furnace purge valve and vacuum valve work.... In all it was worth calling in a tradesman who takes pride in his craft.

His is a one man operation and he got in the business starting age 6 from his dad's shop. He is around 58 so better than 50 years experience in heat and cooling ... Super nice guy wanting to make an income but not killing people.

I'll certainly call him again. Wish all tradesmen were like him.
 
One of my bathroom sinks has a dime size paint chip, no rust showing up yet. Does anyone have any experience using one of the porcelain repair kits found in the big box stores? Any recommendation? I'm guessing the biggest issue would be getting a good color match but even if it was off a little it would still look better than it does now.


I have used these porcelain repair kits. Can find good ones on eBay. Surface prep is key and a small Dremel tool with sanding wheel helps in that area.

Replaced my MIL's pink porcelain sink. Was in good shape , no chips, but from 1959 and she wanted a white one after all these years. I took the old one away, on a whim I put it on eBay, and sold for 200 bucks .

Guess lunch is on me next time
 
I have used these porcelain repair kits. Can find good ones on eBay. Surface prep is key and a small Dremel tool with sanding wheel helps in that area.

I ended up using a touch up kit for tubs and sinks that American Standard sells. Not a 100% color match but close, have to look real close to notice it, I'm satisfied. Time will tell how well it holds up.
 
Got gas at a gas station and brand (Quick-Check in NJ) I hadn't used before. Drove one mile and check engine light came on. Internet research and a trip to AutoZone to get codes read indicate either gas cap or some valve called canister purge valve. Debating what to do when. The current gas cap looks good, no rips, seals well, clicks normally. Hate to buy a new one for no good reason. Took a look at the canister purge valve, wondering if I should take it out and clean it. Or just put some fuel system cleaner in the tank and hope. At least the car still runs fine (knock on wood). Decisions, decisions.....
 
Got gas at a gas station and brand (Quick-Check in NJ) I hadn't used before. Drove one mile and check engine light came on. Internet research and a trip to AutoZone to get codes read indicate either gas cap or some valve called canister purge valve. Debating what to do when. The current gas cap looks good, no rips, seals well, clicks normally. Hate to buy a new one for no good reason. Took a look at the canister purge valve, wondering if I should take it out and clean it. Or just put some fuel system cleaner in the tank and hope. At least the car still runs fine (knock on wood). Decisions, decisions.....

I got that once and determined it was because I hadn't tightened the gas cap securely enough. Owner's manual said it would clear itself but only after driving some large number of miles. It did.
 
I got that once and determined it was because I hadn't tightened the gas cap securely enough. Owner's manual said it would clear itself but only after driving some large number of miles. It did.

The gas cap was on nice and tight. I pulled over to check the cap right away. I've driven about 80 miles since the light came on. The most common cause of the "check engine light after fillup" on the internet searches, after loose cap, was this canister purge valve, for my Nissan Versa. The valve itself looks fine, after I finally located it. But it may be carboned up inside, apparently. Youtube has some great videos on how to change it, or just remove it, clean it out, and replace it. Taking it to the dealer is out of the question. Way overpriced. So I'll take it slow, hope the light just goes out by itself, and wait for days above 45 degrees to work on it.
 
The gas cap was on nice and tight.

Did you open the gas cap, and re-close it, or just check that it was tight? I think that sometimes a pressure build up from temperature change can trigger it as well, or re-seating the cap may help seal it. Just tightening may not do the trick. But it can take some time to clear. I wouldn't rush to do anything with that valve until I've fully eliminated the gas cap.

The light on DW's Honda CRV came on the other day after a big temperature swing, and she had filled up days before. I loosened it (and heard a 'woosh' I think), and re-seated it, and the warning went away two days later. We've never had this warning before, car is ~ 5 years old.

-ERD50
 
Rodent chewed away the connecting wire to the knock detector on our Vibe. Next day and $450 later, same lights appear on instrument cluster.:mad:

Back in the shop again. Auto insurance should cover some.

Trying to figure out an effective deterrent. Peppermint oil did not work. Trying mothballs and metal tape now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Early Retirement Forum mobile app
 
Replaced my car AC condenser today, but with a twist. I hired a "mobile mechanic" off Craigslist to do the dirty work, while I supervised and directed. Ordinarily I wouldn't hire such a person, but he came with recommendations and indeed he was a good worker, if a little lacking in skill and tools. I bought a new Motorcraft condenser off Amazon for $100. The old condenser had leaked out the refrigerant along with a little green oil, so it was a DIY job at that point.

Tomorrow I'll take it in and have it evacuated and recharged. I saved about 1/2 over just taking it to the shop.
 
Back in the shop again. Auto insurance should cover some.

Trying to figure out an effective deterrent. Peppermint oil did not work. Trying mothballs and metal tape now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Early Retirement Forum mobile app

I noticed a big ragged chunk of rubber missing from the cover to the alternator post on my car. I think a rodent may be the cause. Must be the season for it!
 
Did you open the gas cap, and re-close it, or just check that it was tight? I think that sometimes a pressure build up from temperature change can trigger it as well, or re-seating the cap may help seal it. Just tightening may not do the trick. But it can take some time to clear. I wouldn't rush to do anything with that valve until I've fully eliminated the gas cap.

The light on DW's Honda CRV came on the other day after a big temperature swing, and she had filled up days before. I loosened it (and heard a 'woosh' I think), and re-seated it, and the warning went away two days later. We've never had this warning before, car is ~ 5 years old.

-ERD50

Yes, I removed the cap and reclosed it.

Other considerations:

1. No more whoosh sound lately when opening gas cap, and it comes off much more easily than it used to. It's also easier to close. Looks fine, though.

2. The car has been subjected to a dust storm of ground up leaf grit every few days from the gang of leaf blowing groundskeepers around here.

3. I found what appears to be rodent damage on a rubber cover to my alternator terminal. Wonder what else they have been chewing.

4. Why did it have to begin right after filling up at the "new" gas station? Coincidence, maybe.




I did mess with the "evap vent control valve", just to see if I could remove it without breaking it. I didn't remove it yet, but I had the vacuum hose off it and looked inside. Very clean. Still don't know how to remove it without breaking it. Have to figure out exactly where to place what tool, and what direction to push, squeeze, pull, twist etc. to get the electrical connector off. Not coming off easily. Manual just says "remove electrical connector", no tricks revealed about how.

Went to the Nissan dealer to get some free info, and the guy was nice, and told me a lot about what could be the cause, but was vague about the gas cap and whether a 5 year old gas cap with no rips is good enough. I might buy a cheap cap which seats more tightly than the current cap, and
hope it fixes the problem.
 
Yes, I removed the cap and reclosed it.

Other considerations:

1. No more whoosh sound lately when opening gas cap, and it comes off much more easily than it used to. It's also easier to close. Looks fine, though.

2. The car has been subjected to a dust storm of ground up leaf grit every few days from the gang of leaf blowing groundskeepers around here.

3. I found what appears to be rodent damage on a rubber cover to my alternator terminal. Wonder what else they have been chewing.

4. Why did it have to begin right after filling up at the "new" gas station? Coincidence, maybe.




I did mess with the "evap vent control valve", just to see if I could remove it without breaking it. I didn't remove it yet, but I had the vacuum hose off it and looked inside. Very clean. Still don't know how to remove it without breaking it. Have to figure out exactly where to place what tool, and what direction to push, squeeze, pull, twist etc. to get the electrical connector off. Not coming off easily. Manual just says "remove electrical connector", no tricks revealed about how.

Went to the Nissan dealer to get some free info, and the guy was nice, and told me a lot about what could be the cause, but was vague about the gas cap and whether a 5 year old gas cap with no rips is good enough. I might buy a cheap cap which seats more tightly than the current cap, and
hope it fixes the problem.

Maybe I missed it, but did you have Autozone clear the code to see if it comes back?
 
Back in the shop again. Auto insurance should cover some.

Trying to figure out an effective deterrent. Peppermint oil did not work. Trying mothballs and metal tape now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Early Retirement Forum mobile app

Ed, I'm not a violent person unless you mess with my cars. We use to have a rodent problem with the little buggers getting in the engine compartment of our older stored vehicles. As soon as Fall rolls around I start setting the killing traps. At first my husband didn't want to kill them. I had to laugh, he bought those have-a-heart traps for mice. He'd catch them, take them outside, release them and catch the same ones the next day. He finally agreed they were the same ones after I put a little blue hair spray on one of the little buggers and he caught it the following day. Maybe it's time for you to set the killing traps!:dead:
 
One of the very few things that I've seen on MMM that resonates with me :

"When I first started do-it-yourself home renovation, at least part of the motivation was a desire to save some serious money. But in recent years the need to conserve money has faded away completely and yet I find myself more enthusiastic about building and fixing stuff than ever. This is because learning new skills, solving puzzles and creating finished products you can be proud of is not just something you do for money – it’s the purpose of life itself.

So when confronted with a choice between fixing something yourself and hiring it out, you do well if you push your comfort zone just little a bit further each time. Just remember the mantra: “This is possible, and plenty of people with fewer advantages than me have accomplished the same thing many times in the past”

Then you get to work, read the instructions, tinker, make mistakes, learn, and succeed. And continue to build on that success, forever."
 
Ed, I'm not a violent person unless you mess with my cars. We use to have a rodent problem with the little buggers getting in the engine compartment of our older stored vehicles. As soon as Fall rolls around I start setting the killing traps. At first my husband didn't want to kill them. I had to laugh, he bought those have-a-heart traps for mice. He'd catch them, take them outside, release them and catch the same ones the next day. He finally agreed they were the same ones after I put a little blue hair spray on one of the little buggers and he caught it the following day. Maybe it's time for you to set the killing traps!:dead:

I had mice make a nest in my HVAC system in my 88 GTA when it was stored in my garage one fall/winter. They ripped off the insulation from the hood to use as building material. My solution which has worked so far, is to prop the hood open all winter ( I have it off insurance then anyway and don't drive it) which takes away the overhead cover the mice want, supposedly. Working so far! Plus I set kill traps and have gotten rid of plenty of them that way.
 
Maybe I missed it, but did you have Autozone clear the code to see if it comes back?

No, I didn't think of it.

Get this (or equiv):

Amazon.com: Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner Scan Tool Check Engine Light Car Code Reader: Automotive

and a FREE app for smartphone/tablet/laptop (with bluetooth edit - I see they also make wifi & usb versions) and for $15 you will have far more capability that the $50+ code readers. This reads all sorts of things from the ODBII, can monitor while you drive, and reset codes as well.

-ERD50
 
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I had mice make a nest in my HVAC system in my 88 GTA when it was stored in my garage one fall/winter. They ripped off the insulation from the hood to use as building material. My solution which has worked so far, is to prop the hood open all winter ( I have it off insurance then anyway and don't drive it) which takes away the overhead cover the mice want, supposedly. Working so far! Plus I set kill traps and have gotten rid of plenty of them that way.

I use dryer sheets liberally to keep rodents away from my hobby car while it is stored over the winter. I put them in the exhaust, engine compartment, trunk and inside under the seats. The interior is more for cosmetic purposes. Some people claim they are effective....I never had a problem.

Unfortunately, I don't think recycled ones would be effective!
 
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