Hawaii - What are the Must Do, Must See, etc.

[chinaco]

Please share with us dry landers.

If you were in the Hawaiian Islands for a month... what are the things one must do, must see, etc.

Also, any warnings/dangers... such as water currents, etc

Please include nature experiences like hiking and camping.

[Gumby]

http://www.early-retirement.org/foru...aii-30671.html

http://www.early-retirement.org/foru...ons-49480.html

Some potential ideas might be found in these threads.

[audreyh1]

Here are the places I have visited - many more than once already - and would definitely return:

Kauai:
Well, Kauai is my favorite island. And we really enjoyed staying on the north shore a little west of Hanalei bay.

* The small town of Hanalei was neat and good for restaurants, shopping, groceries, and has some good activities companies - kayaking, sailing, etc.
* The condo was within walking distance of Tunnels beach which is pretty good snorkeling. Drive a little further to the end of the highway and you find Kee Beach which is a lovely spot and pretty decent snorkeling. Hanalei Colony Resort - well past most of the tourist crowd. Terrific location if you spend most of your time on the north shore. Just two-story condos with expansive grounds instead of a high rise.
* Hike the initial 2 mile portion of the NaPali Coast trail. Incredible plants and scenery. Nice waterfall at the end.
* Impressive botanical garden nearby - Limahuli Gardens and Preserve. Well worth it.
* National Wildlife Refuge/Bird Sanctuary at Kilauea Lighthouse - Red-footed Boobies, Tropicbirds, Frigatebirds. Seals. Terrific scenery. Nice little town to stop in on the way.
* Well worth driving around the south side to visit Waimeia canyon. A full day trip. Go all the way so you can look down the other end of the Napali coast. Takes your breath away.

On the big island Hawaii:
* Visiting a coffee plantation near Kona.
* Kayak across Kealakekua Bay to Captain Cook memorial sanctuary at Kealakekua Bay State Park. Awesome snorkeling.
* Visiting the Volcano national park. Lots of nice hikes near the lodge (worth staying). And in the evening drive down to the area where the lava is rolling into the ocean. Impressive!
* We also enjoyed the black beaches on the south end of the island.

On Maui
* Gotta visit Haleakala!

On Oahu
* Very nice snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. Crowded, but still worth it.
* Polynesian Cultural Center on east side of island worth a visit, and great scenic drive from Honolulu, pretty beaches.
* North shore of Oahu has a nice botanical garden - Waimea Arboretum and Botanical Garden. The North Shore beaches are famous for best surfing.

Audrey

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by chinaco Please share with us dry landers. If you were in the Hawaiian Islands for a month... what are the things one must do, must see, etc. Also, any warnings/dangers... such as water currents, etc Please include nature experiences like hiking and camping.

I'd add one more link for outdoor activities: Franko's Maps Fabulous Maps of Favorite Places
As ClifP would point out, it's a shameless plug for a small business and a good friend.

Many of the "must do" activities are at opposite ends of the bell curve. If one visitor is a fashion-boutique shopper and another is a rugged outdoors type then they'll both be very happy on at least one of the islands... as long as they're not with each other.

Similar to REWahoo!'s Texas Defamation League disclaimer, there are many ways to drown yourself (or worse) here. However most of the hazards are avoided by remembering that it's an ocean, not a lake or the Intracoastal Waterway, and by not turning your back to the wave or jumping on the reef. No continental shelf here, either, so a quarter-mile off the beach can put a kayaker in hundreds of fathoms of water with waves to match, but it's very nice for a whale-watching cruise or an open-ocean sailing race. I wouldn't pick up the pretty critters or corals in any body of water, let alone Hawaii. And the cool thing about rips & currents is that they can make it a lot easier to paddle out to the surf break.

Whatever you see people doing on the water, there's probably someone on the beach eager to show you how to do it.

I think the E Komo Mai FAQ threads cover the hiking pretty well, but post to HawaiiThreads.com or PM me if you're interested in more esoteric aspects like hiking clubs or geocaching. The trails cover the entire spectrum-- if you hike with a day pack (survival gear) on the Mainland then you'll want the same gear here. If you're looking for a leisurely stroll then there are plenty of those, too.

Camping... not so much. I'm a bit jaundiced about that activity around here. Oahu's pretty darn urban for camping, even in places like Waimanalo or the west side, and many of the "campers" tend to attempt to recreate all the conveniences of home at the campsite-- complete with electrical generators and loud music. Oahu residents are literally camping out at satellite city halls for the next couple weeks to obtain first-come-first-served camping permits for 4th of July weekend.

The people "camping" at the beach might be diehard surfers, but are more probably homeless. They're a bit jaundiced about the activity too, and perhaps casting an opportunistic eye at your gear.

Neighbor islands might offer more camping opportunities, and there are residents/posters on HawaiiThreads.com who can offer detailed suggestions.

If you're planning to stay in one location for a month then you'll probably do better with a VRBO rental condo than a hotel. If you're eager to flit from one island to the next (not my personal choice but done by many) then you could do it from a base with side trips or as a series of hotels. It depends on the time of year you're visiting, the location, and any big activities happening there-- for example, stay clear of the Big Island during Iron Man week.

Once you've had a chance to look through the other threads & links, if you can pick a time of year and an island or two then the advice can be tailored to those parameters.

[LOL!]

There is so much to do, I would consult the guide books as this thread cannot do justice to all the must-sees. Nevertheless, I'll put in one item:

Go snorkeling early in the morning while the sharks are still around in the reefs, preferably right out the front door of your condo. It should raise your heart rate a little bit.

[RonBoyd]

What you are asking is kind of unanswerable. We have been to Hawaii so many times --for one 15 year period, it was every year and, in 35 years never more than a five year break. In fact, it has been less than four years now and DW and I are feeling tremendous pressure to visit again -- agitated by a close friend who lives in downtown Honolulu.

In all those many trips (from two to four weeks), I don't believe we have duplicated any previous visit. There is so much waiting for you. Everything the previous posters have said is exactly what I would recommend. In addition, I would suggest, as a first thing, that you see how quickly you can get to the top of "Diamond Head." It is not that it is such a difficult thing to do but... if you can handle that you will leave all your fears behind and easily venture out past your comfort zone. (Don't read Nord's adventure on Haleakala nor consider the "Stairway to Heaven," however.)

This one of those "no matter what you do, you will talk about it for years."

FWIW, I read Michener's "Hawaii" before my first trip. I have always considered that one of the best decisions I ever made. It gave me a solid foundation for understanding what I was being exposed to... even many, many years later.

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonBoyd In addition, I would suggest, as a first thing, that you see how quickly you can get to the top of "Diamond Head." It is not that it is such a difficult thing to do but... if you can handle that you will leave all your fears behind and easily venture out past your comfort zone. (Don't read Nord's adventure on Haleakala nor consider the "Stairway to Heaven," however.)

Heck, Diamond Head even has lights in the tunnel now. It's almost Disneyfied.

Haleakala is a really really nice day hike, but I'd skip the sunrise (too crowded) and the bike rides (too regimented/boring).

A couple weeks ago the rescue guys had to pluck a couple "stranded" hikers off the Stairway to Heaven using a helicopter basket. I hope they made them pay for the rescue, too. Lucky they didn't get arrested & fined as well for trespassing and creating a hazardous situation.

[audreyh1]

What I enjoyed most about Haleakala - besides the incredible caldera and impressive views and drive to the top, were the small remnant garden groves high on the volcano. Just full of native hawaiian birds - and there aren't too many of them left.

I think these groves were about the same altitude as the main visitor center.

Oh that silversword in full bloom was impressive too.

Audrey

[RonBoyd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nords Heck, Diamond Head even has lights in the tunnel now. It's almost Disneyfied.

Yeah, a lot has changed in those 35 years. Nevertheless, the view from up there is inspiring still... at least it was the last time we were there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nords Haleakala is a really really nice day hike, but I'd skip the sunrise (too crowded) and the bike rides (too regimented/boring).

Somewhat different than what I had in mind:

http://www.early-retirement.org/foru...ust-50388.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nords A couple weeks ago the rescue guys had to pluck a couple "stranded" hikers off the Stairway to Heaven using a helicopter basket. I hope they made them pay for the rescue, too. Lucky they didn't get arrested & fined as well for trespassing and creating a hazardous situation.

Yeah, san-smiley again.

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonBoyd Somewhat different than what I had in mind: http://www.early-retirement.org/foru...ust-50388.html

As we'd be struggling up some of the Park Road switchbacks on the fourth day, still carrying 20-pound packs on sore feet (and even more painful glutes), looking forward to opening a beer in the parking lot and a hot shower later on, an occasional group of day-hikers would scamper down the trail carrying a water bottle and a Hershey's bar. (Of course they'd slept also in a real bed the night before, taken a hot shower that morning, and probably had a latté or two with their eggs Benedict before coming up to the trail head.) They'd smile and take photos of the cliffs and then say "You're almost there-- only 1000 feet higher!" Or they'd be turning around after their third mile, going back up our trail and skipping past us like we were getting in their way and slowing them down. I was pretty sure the rangers wouldn't mind if I pushed one or two of them off the hillside. Maybe my morale had peaked by that point.

Unlike several others of our group, I haven't lost any toenails and I didn't break any blisters. However after nearly a month, two of the blood blisters under my toenails are still returning to their usual color.

But the Park Road trail isn't too bad for a day hike, and the Haleakala summit is nice for an hour or two if the wind is under 40 knots. It's jeans & jackets weather all day long up there.

I haven't seen it for myself, but I've been told that a thundering herd of buses roars up the Haleakala crater road at 3-4 AM to reach the summit in time for sunrise. The "problem" is that they're all idling their diesel engines in the parking lot (to run their heaters) and cranky crowds are all jostling in the dark for the best spot with eastern exposure. Gotta bring your own warm clothing & hot coffee, too. It's become less than the spiritual back-to-nature experience that one might imagine. It's frequently cloudy, occasionally rainy, and always windy. There's talk of restricting the number of buses/visitors but for now I think it's still unlimited.

After last year's regrettable couple of crashes (with serious injuries in the lava fields), the Haleakala bicycle tours have started up again under significant safety restrictions. The cyclists are bused up to the park entrance (not the crater but the entrance which is several miles and several thousand feet lower than the crater). They're suited up with full-face motorcycle helmets and even exposure suits, then they seem to be led downhill in single-file formation at a fairly sedate pace. Kinda hard to stop for photos or a quick drink. I don't know how much they pay for the privilege but I'd rather drive & hike.

There are lots of nice day hikes in Kilauea (on the Big Island) and around Hilo too. Waimea Canyon on Kauai. All over Maui.

[RonBoyd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nords As we'd be struggling up some of the Park Road switchbacks on the fourth day, still carrying 20-pound packs on sore feet (and even more painful glutes), looking forward to opening a beer in the parking lot and a hot shower later on, ...

Yeah, that's more like it. Excellent addition to your earlier post.

[GusLevy]

Greetings. I am off to my 5th visit to Hawaii in the past yr at the start of July and am looking forward to my 1st trip to Kauai - Maui and Kauai on this trip. If you plan on visiting the Big Island I would recommend Mauna Kea and Kilauea on evening trips, perhaps some off-roading and hiking on the southern beach areas (Green Beach is a fun trip) and the 2 great hikes in the northern Valleys. As others have noted, there are too many great things to do to note otherwise amongst all the islands: I have used the Hawaii Revealed books and have enjoyed them.

As for my upcoming trip I am considering doing the sunrise in Haleakala as a morning drive and would like to know what is an optimal time to begin the drive from Lahaina...would appreciate advice if anyone has it.

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GusLevy As for my upcoming trip I am considering doing the sunrise in Haleakala as a morning drive and would like to know what is an optimal time to begin the drive from Lahaina...would appreciate advice if anyone has it.

It's 30 minutes to the summit from the Kula Lodge in... Kula... if the road's not jammed with all the other sunrise traffic. You can use Google Maps to get a pretty fair time estimate between your Lahaina lodgings and Kula Lodge.

If you're staying at a Lahaina hotel or condo you could ask them. Another option would be to take one of the bus tours and let them do the driving. At a minimum they'd be able to tell you when to be ready to leave Lahaina (if you're doing the driving) and they might be able to persuade you to let them handle the driving, crowds, and hairpin switchbacks. Unless you leave earlier than the buses, once you get to Kula there's really no safe way to pass them.

Maybe I'm a bit jaded from watching a Ko'olau sunrise out of my familyroom window every morning. I've never enjoyed crowds or traffic. But personally, if you're going to do the Haleakala sunrise, then I'd do it on one of your first days in Maui. If you go during the second or third week on Maui then you'll be comparing the Haleakala sunrise to all the other Maui sunrises you've perhaps already seen, and the Haleakala one might be found wanting. And if you save Haleakala for one of your last days then you might decide not to do it at all.

[RonBoyd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nords But personally, if you're going to do the Haleakala sunrise, then I'd do it on one of your first days in Maui. If you go during the second or third week on Maui then you'll be comparing the Haleakala sunrise to all the other Maui sunrises you've perhaps already seen, and the Haleakala one might be found wanting. And if you save Haleakala for one of your last days then you might decide not to do it at all.

I couldn't agree more. In any event, I have always been a "Sunset" kind of guy when in the Pacific. Back in the mid (or early?) 70's there was a single story building (or, at least, this section was -- my memory is pretty defective on that point) to the left of the Outrigger Hotel on Waikiki Beach. At five o'clock one could enter through an unmarked door (with the proper airline industry password) and walk up to the roof. There you could look directly down on the sunbathers on the beach -- and talk to them in a conversational tone. Anyway, there were all the Pupus you would ever want and the drinks were (again memory fails) between 50 and 75 cents. There, we would sit on folding beach chairs at temporay tables and wait for the Sun to set. The great thing about it was that it was for airline people only and, because Honolulu was in the center of the Pacific, there were pilots and flight attendants from every airline that made it a point to be there. (the people not the airline)

Anyway, we would sit and watch the Sun slowly sink into the Ocean -- and there is nothing like the colors of a pacific Sunset anywhere. When the Sun finally disappeared -- the "Green Flash" -- everyone jumped up and left. Within five minutes there was no evidence that we had even been there. This took place every night, seven days a week.

[Westernskies]

Hawaii - What are the Must Do, Must See, etc.

The presidential birthplace?

[HFWR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Westernskies Hawaii - What are the Must Do, Must See, etc. The presidential birthplace?

[Nords]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HFWR

So far, the guy who schedules those tours is laughing, too-- all the way to the bank...

[Koolau]

My top suggestions (Oahu) would be to go to the USS Arizona memorial (free but go early) which puts you at the USS Bowfin submarine and also the air museum. From there, you can easily get to the battleship Missouri as well.

Consider Punchbowl cemetery (the National cemetery of the Pacific).

If you go to the Polynesian Cultural center, try to also go out to Laie Point State Wayside and see the natural rock formations. Google it.

For the usual and also the unusual, I'd suggest the series of books: Oahu Revealed, Maui Revealed, Hawaii (the Big Island) Revealed, Kawaii Revealed depending upon where you plan to visit. These books are the most helpful I've seen in learning what to do and see in the Islands. By the way, they LOVE the Stairway to Heaven adventure. Wish I were younger/more agile. I'd love to do it, but never will.

If you are limited on time/money I recommend visiting Oahu. Spoiled as it is at Waikiki, much of the rest of the island has the charm of the more deserted islands - but you won't drive nearly as far! Visit Kailua beach and you can have a whole section of beach to yourself if you are willing to walk a few hundred yards from the parking lots. The President has stayed down at the far end the last couple of times he has been "home".

Visit China Town - during the day.

Do NOT go into the water at Sandy Beach unless you know what you're doing and have spoken with a lifeguard first. Enjoy watching the "experts" from the shore. Mind all red beach flags warning against going into water - even though you'll see people going in.

Don't over-plan things to do. Leave lots of time to just kick back and relax. That is what Hawaii is best for.

Spend lots of money! We need the tax revenue!!!

[Nords]

Oh, and if you're going to drink alcoholic beverages then don't go floating in the ocean:
Man drifts mile into Gulf after passing out on pool float - Local News - Tampa, FL - News - msnbc.com

[GusLevy]

To the OP I am currently in Maui and leaving for Kauai tmrw. As stated before the Hawaii Revealed books will be a great resource given your focus on the outdoors and hiking. Haleakala was an impressive volcano and prob a decent day-hike option (or longer as people like Nords have done).

I just wanted to write this to note that I had an extremely great time doing something that I wasn't expecting much out of which was an evening catamaran dinner cruise out of Kaanapali...we booked the Hula Girl and had the most relaxing time along with a very delicious dinner. After a hard day of tourist activities, hiking, etc this was a fantastic close to the day's events.