Thinking about an RV

[Gone4Good]

We also agreed on aiming for no more othan 300-350 miles per day to avoid "get-there-itis."

5 hrs, with a break for lunch, is about as much driving as I want to do on any given day. If where I'm going looks to be more than that, I can usually find an interesting enough stop between here and there to spend a couple of days.

 

[OrcasIslandBound]

We have a Lance camper 1025 (10 foot slide in camper) on a ford '97 F350 crew cab. 9 mpg + burns premium, but fits anywhere and its a 4x4. If you are planning to spend weeks or months in something, this would be too small, but we (well,... mostly me) love it. I suppose, in a pinch, we could enter it in the next RV racing derby...

 

[Gone4Good]

If you are planning to spend weeks or months in something, this would be too small

Nah, sounds like Rocinante (the RV that Steinbeck drove in Travels with Charley).

 

[JOHNNIE36]

I've had both a class C motor home and also pulled a 35 ft Avion travel trailer on different occassions. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. I think driving a class C may be a little more easy on the nerves unless you are also pulling a tow vehicle. I never did that. Just used mopeds back in my day. In that regard, pulling the Avion with the 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban was a breeze. Triple axle. 70 mph no problem. 10mpg, whether or not you're pulling anything. Things have improved a lot over the years to make it easier to set up camp like auto leveling jacks. I'm 6'3" and head clearance is very important. Walked right through the Avion with no problem. It was bigger than the class C Tioga but it's all relavant to needs. Avion had two twin beds in the rear and the Tioga bed was above the cab. Today at 75, I'll take a motel.

 

[brewer12345]

The 4 of us and the two dogs were camping this weekend in our 16 foot travel trailer. People looked at us like we were clowns getting in and out of the little car.

 

[audreyh1]

I agree but I'd suggest you drive more than 5MPH under the speed limit in many situations. I find driving around 60-62MPH to be a comfortable speed so I rarely exceed that even when the speed limit is 70 or 80. Driving faster than 60-62 is not only a bit less safe and more stressful, fuel economy goes downhill in a hurry.

Not to mention that your big rig tires are often rated for 65mph or less and how much harder it is to handle a blowout going 70+.

I almost never go above 60 unless flat and wind at my back. Sure helps on the fuel mileage.

Audrey

 

[audreyh1]

60 mph is my motorhome's sweet spot, more or less. BTW it is also quietest in that range.

I pick it up a notch for safety in some cases (aggressive high speed traffic where my 60mph seems to invite reckless passing, etc).

We also agreed on aiming for no more othan 300-350 miles per day to avoid "get-there-itis."

Same here! 350 in one day is a full day for us.

Unless we are heading west of San Antonio on I-10 that is! If you don't go at least 400 miles you feel like you made no progress at all! I mean - 550 miles from SA to El Paso? Good grief! Fortunately that I-40 section is so well designed (gradual rises) and low traffic it's not a burden at all, once you get used to all the folks blasting past you at 80mph!

Audrey

 

[REWahoo]

Fortunately that I-10 section is so well designed (gradual rises) and low traffic it's not a burden at all, once you get used to all the folks blasting past you at 80mph!

Audrey

Yep. I'm always amazed to see the State Troopers pull someone over for speeding on that stretch of [-]raceway[/-] highway!

 

[Sam]

Not to mention that your big rig tires are often rated for 65mph...

The lowest tire speed rating is 75mph and that's very rare. Common truck tires are rated at 93mph or above.

Tire Tech Information - How to Read Speed Rating, Load Index & Service Descriptions

That said, I agree that RVs should be driven at 60mph or less when possible for safety and economic reasons.

 

[Brat]

I've tried opening up the possibility of buying another trailer instead of a motor home with my husband. He wants a motor home.

I thought 29 feet would provide the floor plan we want but would still be easy to drive because it is small, in fact we found a nice one locally that we were enthusiastic about. Then a motor home owner on a Yahoo website told me to pay attention to the wheel base vs length. I got a cross examination from husband about that so I went to the library and reviewed a couple books... what an eye opener. The higher the ratio the better the motor home drives. 29 vs 30 feet is the breaking point on wheelbases. A 30' drives better than a 29'!

As a result I signed up for rv.org which rates motor homes. Now I know what to look for, or to say it differently... what to avoid in a used motor home.

The hunt continues....

 

[devans0]

As for speed, I discovered that 55 mph or whatever the speed limit was, increased my mpg from 10 to 13 mpg. So for a 500 mile trip, I will save close to $50 (assuming no speeding tickets). Hmmm...How much am I willing to spend so that other people can get there sooner.

 

[brewer12345]

Meanwhile we have quickly realized that the minivan is an inadequate tow vehicle in the mountains. Truck, here we come.

 

[REWahoo]

Meanwhile we have quickly realized that the minivan is an inadequate tow vehicle in the mountains. Truck, here we come.

Some things you have to experience first hand to really understand.

Give some consideration to buying a little more truck than one that just meets your current needs. Odds are you'll be wanting to upgrade the size of your RV in a few years and you don't want to find yourself back in the same situation.

 

[ls99]

+1. Delete words "a little".

 

[brewer12345]

First things we will look at are a Chevy avalanche and an F150, both of which have tow ratings north of 8000 pounds. The current trailer is 3300 GVWR and most of the bigger ones we would look at are 5000 or a bit over. So is there an obvious problem or shortcoming wit pur initial choices?

 

[ls99]

For mountain running, stopping ability is paramount.

Especially with the rare but not impossible trailer brake failure from whatever reason, like controller or wiring thereof, malfunction.

Thus look for 3/4 ton vehicle. They have substantially stronger frames, larger and more robust braking systems than 1/2 tons. Oh and avoid anything with "P" rated tires.

Cheers.

 

[Brat]

I know a little about trucks/suvs and towing. Son has Fords and tows often (with kids you will want a crew cab). You need to go at least one step above the 150 Ford engine. You also want the 'towing package' which gets you a heartier cooling system and beefier breaks. Pay attention not only to the pull capacity but the hitch. You want what my husband calls a 5-pin connector for trailer breaks. I know this sounds like overkill but you now will be driving mountain passes and operating a vehicle at high elevation. [I have heard that drivers who spend extended periods of time in Denver and the Bay Area often need their vehicle systems adjusted for each environment.]

That RV consumer's program I mentioned earlier includes a PDF file on towing including the selection of a vehicle to tow a trailer. Before you upgrade your set-up I highly recommend reading their analysis.

 

[REWahoo]

First things we will look at are a Chevy avalanche and an F150, both of which have tow ratings north of 8000 pounds. The current trailer is 3300 GVWR and most of the bigger ones we would look at are 5000 or a bit over. So is there an obvious problem or shortcoming wit pur initial choices?

Having recently been down this same road, the shortcoming is in the mfg ads emphasizing how much a vehicle can tow (pull), not how much payload it can carry. Payload is THE limiting factor - the total weight limit of the passengers, cargo and hitch weight on the tow vehicle.

My advice (I have fresh bruises on this subject) is to pay very, very close attention to the payload sticker on any vehicle you think about purchasing. Don't trust the slick brochures, read the actual sticker on the vehicle. It is located inside the driver's doorway and is usually a sentence in small type written just above the recommended tire inflation pressures. You will likely be surprised at how low this number is - I know I was. A 5,000 GVWR trailer can have a hitch weight of 750, and your truck may have a payload capacity of only 1,000 or so. By the time you add the wife, kids, dogs, suitcases and other assorted stuff you can easily exceed the payload limit of the truck and end up with the rear end dragging and the front end in the air - not good and not safe.

 

[REWahoo]

Brewer, one more thing...

The reason I emphasize looking at the payload number on the actual vehicle is the manufacturer's brochures say things like "maximum payload of 1,580 lbs". This is the payload capacity of a bare-bones, stripped-down vehicle, not what sits on the showroom floor. Every piece of optional equipment reduces the payload capacity. Add automatic transmission, upgraded wheels and tires, trailer towing package, floor mats, etc. and the available payload goes down significantly.

 

[brewer12345]

Actually, I just came down a 5 mile 6 percent grade and only tapped the brakes twice. The trailer generates so much drag it is an air brake.

 

[haha]

Actually, I just came down a 5 mile 6 percent grade and only tapped the brakes twice. The trailer generates so much drag it is an air brake.

Like someone said above, the main thing is that you do not want your trailer to push your truck off a mountainside, or drag it across lanes under a side-draft. Get a one ton without the dualies and you will be happy ever after, unless you go to a fifth wheel, in which case you want dualies. You need wheelbase, adequate power train, and big brakes and axle/differential. I am not familiar with the SUV you mentioned, but if you do SUV be sure to get a long one on a truck WB.

You may spend a bit more on vehicle and gas, but you and your family will be more relaxed and safer. Your destinations are likely to be nearby anyway.

I have never heard anyone complain that they had too much truck.

Ha

 

[REWahoo]

While I wouldn't think you'd need a 1-ton truck (Chevy 3500/Ford F-350), I do agree with ha that you'd be better served with a larger truck, maybe a 2500 or F-250 - and in your new location it needs to have 4WD.

 

[brewer12345]

Thanks for the info. Clearly I have research to do before a purchase.

 

[haha]

While I wouldn't think you'd need a 1-ton truck (Chevy 3500/Ford F-350), I do agree with ha that you'd be better served with a larger truck, maybe a 2500 or F-250 - and in your new location it needs to have 4WD.

You are much more experienced than I am; so if you suggest this it is likely fine.

Ha

 

[ls99]

I foresee more exciting travel trailer and tow vehicle learning events by brewer.