African Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

Van-Guard23

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My wife and I are finalizing plans for a trip to Kenya and Tanzania in September/October of this year with Odysseys Unlimited. Anyone else have a recent experience with them on this tour or similar tour in Africa who is willing to share their experience, tips, and any lessons learned? Thanks.
 
We did one of out trips with Access2Tanzania years ago:

1) Both Kenya and Tanzania are amazing. If I had to go with one it would be Tanzania simply for the bigger access to Serengeti vs smaller Masai Mara in Kenya.

2) Hands down the highlight of the trip was the Ngorogoro crater in Tanzana. Maybe just because it was unexpected, but seeing the animals on the prowl in the depths of a crater was awesome.

3) If you are also doing a beach there, Zanzibar is unreal. The sand is like white cooking flour. Not just the color, but the texture. Other than the resorts (big and small), Zanzibar is pretty much a dump.

4) Safari drives are grueling.
 
Most transport in those areas is via pop-top Toyotas. IIRC they will hold at least 7 guests. This is fine, but standing to take pictures in the pop-top area there is room for maybe three people. If you are a photographer, you will have to plan your attack on this. I see that your tour operator guarantees a window. These won't be very suitable for good photography due to dirt and scratches. Inevitably the animal sighting will be at the front, back, or other side.

We book private travel, so our Toyota had only DW and me plus our guide and our driver. We were free to move around and shoot all directions from the pop-top. Sadly, you will probably not have this luxury with a group.

For photography, forget about changing lenses. I carry two Micro43 camera bodies, one with a long zoom (100-400 type) and one with a short zoom (14-140). Animals will appear at all distances, so be prepared to grab the right camera/lens quickly. If you go to mu-43.com you can search and find multiple threads on photo safari equipment and technique.

Carry a good windbreaker and a sweater to layer underneath. Morning game drives can be quite chilly, evening a bit less so.

Everyone comes back with a favorite location. Ngorongoro, Masai Mara, Serengeti, etc. It's all about luck. What "favorite" means is that is where the speaker had the best luck. The next travelers will proabably have best luck somewhere else.

(Speaking after 7 trips to Africa and easily a month of photo safari-ing.)
 
I also did the Kenya and Tanzania trip about a decade ago. It was great. It was my first trip to Africa and 3rd world rural and small-town poverty. At first, I felt a bit like an "Ugly American" (I know the term doesn't actually refer to us regular Joes). But I quickly came to realize that pretty much everyone was friendly and, at least outwardly, happy. The sights on the animal reservations are amazing. Get there while you can - who knows how long they can preserve these wonderful natural resources.
 
DW and I visited Africa in 2019 and stayed in 9 locations over 5 weeks. For us there was value in small vehicle (9 pax max) open air game drives each morning and afternoon. We did see other folks crammed into small buses (maybe 20 people)...and it was not the same experience as getting off the road into locations with animal encounters all around us. There was a seat mounted on the hood of our vehicle so the guide could see and hear the animal tracks and sounds, directing the driver exactly where to go.

If you can get pictures, in advance, of the vehicles you will be riding on at each location, that may be helpful in selecting the right camps. I would avoid any large capacity seating where you have to look out windows.

We also had locations where we were in small boats and canoes...or actually walked in nature with our guides...higher level of risk, but very rewarding.
 
DW and I spent 10 weeks in Africa last fall. Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and So Africa. My advice for you:
0. Consult your MD about malaria medication and if you need it.
1. Bring bug spray. Use it.
2. Avoid blue and black clothing. Stick to green and tan. Bugs, for some reason, like blue and black.
3. If the game driver suggests a certain path, or time, just accept it. They do this for a living and know what they are doing. Also, where we stayed there was a plan to spread the safari vehicles out so it was a more solo adventure. Jeeps were in radio contact so we didn't miss anything special.
4. Get up early and do a sunrise on safari if you can. We had breakfast in the bush a few time and it was wonderful. If you are not offered this, get up early and listen as the world around you wakes up.
5. Ask about happy hour in the bush. Again, we did this and loved it.
6. If offered, go on a night game drive. The Serengeti was very different in the dark. The stars were spectacular.
7. Ask questions and keep the guide/tracker engaged. Ask about the various trees, the birds, etc. Our guides were keen to answer questions and stay engaged.

I hope you get to experience the Mara river crossing as part of your trip.

If you can add on Cape Town, give it serious consideration. We really enjoyed this and Stellenbosch at the end of our African adventure.

Have a great trip!
 
I agree, Ngorogoro crater was one of the highlights for us. The stars were stunning at night, because of the lower light pollution plus the elevation, but beware of hippos! The tented camps do not feel like tents at all, they usually are like the tents you see British colonial governors/nobles "camping" in in movies set ~100 years ago. (IIRC they use those because they are required to be taken down during the off season in the national preserves, which I was glad to hear.)


The jeep we used had a capacity of 6 people, and since we had 4 in our group, we paid a little extra to reserve the jeep for ourselves and customize our trip. We based it off of this itinerary, but extended a couple of stays by a total of 3 days: https://goodearthtours.com/tour/migration-tracker-safari/


I took a LOT of photos, thoroughly tagged them, including photos of the lodge signs, and geotagged many if not most, if you want to take a look. I have a highlights album, and the full monty with almost 900 photos.
 
We did one of out trips with Access2Tanzania years ago:

1) Both Kenya and Tanzania are amazing. If I had to go with one it would be Tanzania simply for the bigger access to Serengeti vs smaller Masai Mara in Kenya.

2) Hands down the highlight of the trip was the Ngorogoro crater in Tanzana. Maybe just because it was unexpected, but seeing the animals on the prowl in the depths of a crater was awesome.

3) If you are also doing a beach there, Zanzibar is unreal. The sand is like white cooking flour. Not just the color, but the texture. Other than the resorts (big and small), Zanzibar is pretty much a dump.

4) Safari drives are grueling.



Thanks for sharing your tips! Thought about extending our trip to include Zanzibar or even South Africa for the beaches but decided against it.
 
Most transport in those areas is via pop-top Toyotas. IIRC they will hold at least 7 guests. This is fine, but standing to take pictures in the pop-top area there is room for maybe three people. If you are a photographer, you will have to plan your attack on this. I see that your tour operator guarantees a window. These won't be very suitable for good photography due to dirt and scratches. Inevitably the animal sighting will be at the front, back, or other side.



We book private travel, so our Toyota had only DW and me plus our guide and our driver. We were free to move around and shoot all directions from the pop-top. Sadly, you will probably not have this luxury with a group.



For photography, forget about changing lenses. I carry two Micro43 camera bodies, one with a long zoom (100-400 type) and one with a short zoom (14-140). Animals will appear at all distances, so be prepared to grab the right camera/lens quickly. If you go to mu-43.com you can search and find multiple threads on photo safari equipment and technique.



Carry a good windbreaker and a sweater to layer underneath. Morning game drives can be quite chilly, evening a bit less so.



Everyone comes back with a favorite location. Ngorongoro, Masai Mara, Serengeti, etc. It's all about luck. What "favorite" means is that is where the speaker had the best luck. The next travelers will proabably have best luck somewhere else.



(Speaking after 7 trips to Africa and easily a month of photo safari-ing.)



We considered private tours with Soul of Tanzania and Bush 2 City (found thru Safari Bookings site) but the itinerary (and game reserves on it) wasn’t as impressive and value wasn’t there.

I like taking pictures (far from a pro) and only have 1 camera body so will use a 18-400mm lens for best coverage. Might have to jostle for best shooting spots on the vehicle.

Thanks.
 
DW and I spent 10 weeks in Africa last fall. Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and So Africa. My advice for you:
0. Consult your MD about malaria medication and if you need it.
1. Bring bug spray. Use it.
2. Avoid blue and black clothing. Stick to green and tan. Bugs, for some reason, like blue and black.
3. If the game driver suggests a certain path, or time, just accept it. They do this for a living and know what they are doing. Also, where we stayed there was a plan to spread the safari vehicles out so it was a more solo adventure. Jeeps were in radio contact so we didn't miss anything special.
4. Get up early and do a sunrise on safari if you can. We had breakfast in the bush a few time and it was wonderful. If you are not offered this, get up early and listen as the world around you wakes up.
5. Ask about happy hour in the bush. Again, we did this and loved it.
6. If offered, go on a night game drive. The Serengeti was very different in the dark. The stars were spectacular.
7. Ask questions and keep the guide/tracker engaged. Ask about the various trees, the birds, etc. Our guides were keen to answer questions and stay engaged.

I hope you get to experience the Mara river crossing as part of your trip.

If you can add on Cape Town, give it serious consideration. We really enjoyed this and Stellenbosch at the end of our African adventure.

Have a great trip!



Thanks for the tips!

Yeah, we plan on consulting our MD to get any required vaccinations for that part of the world…we typically do that when we travel internationally.

Looks like I will need to take copious notes during game drives to ensure the album I’ll be putting together after the trip would have accurate and complete info.

Heard about the river crossings but looks like it’ll be over by the time we get there.

Thanks again
 
All this talk of Ngorongoro and how good the guides and drivers are reminded me of a fascinating incident on our trip. Heading west toward Serengeti in Tanzania IIRC, we were on a road with horrendous potholes that the drivers were furious about. A private tour jeep tipped over breaking a tourist's shoulder and as other drivers pulled up they organized an impromptu job action. Within a few hours, about one hundred vehicles were stopped on the road and the drivers refused to move until a minister of some sort flew out by helicopter from the capitol and promised action on the road. True to his word, when we returned east on the same road, heading to Ngorongora, road crews were busy at work. While we were sitting out there I asked our guide why drivers who were frustrated didn't just ride out onto the plain and drive around the other vehicles. He laughed and answered, "because the others would stone us." Having seen stones in the road after a "demonstration" protesting government inaction on cattle theft a few days earlier, I believed it. Self Help in action. If you want to see a boatload of pictures of a similar trip, I have a couple of hundred on Flickr. There are some nice shots of Ngorogora at the end of the album.
 

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Oh, I should have said....we picked Good Earth because my in-laws had gone once or twice before with them and really liked it. They were/are serious travelers.

I agree, Ngorogoro crater was one of the highlights for us. The stars were stunning at night, because of the lower light pollution plus the elevation, but beware of hippos! The tented camps do not feel like tents at all, they usually are like the tents you see British colonial governors/nobles "camping" in in movies set ~100 years ago. (IIRC they use those because they are required to be taken down during the off season in the national preserves, which I was glad to hear.)

The jeep we used had a capacity of 6 people, and since we had 4 in our group, we paid a little extra to reserve the jeep for ourselves and customize our trip. We based it off of this itinerary, but extended a couple of stays by a total of 3 days: https://goodearthtours.com/tour/migration-tracker-safari/

I took a LOT of photos, thoroughly tagged them, including photos of the lodge signs, and geotagged many if not most, if you want to take a look. I have a highlights album, and the full monty with almost 900 photos.
 
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... 4) Safari drives are grueling.
In our experience, (dirt) roads in Tanzania and Kenya are really terrible. Probably too rough for anyone with back problems. The roads in the south (RSA, Botswana, etc.) are much better.

DW and I visited Africa in 2019 and stayed in 9 locations over 5 weeks. For us there was value in small vehicle (9 pax max) open air game drives each morning and afternoon. We did see other folks crammed into small buses (maybe 20 people)...and it was not the same experience as getting off the road into locations with animal encounters all around us. There was a seat mounted on the hood of our vehicle so the guide could see and hear the animal tracks and sounds, directing the driver exactly where to go. ...
Yes, those are the best vehicles. They are common in the South, but not in Tanzania or Kenya in our experience. That said, one camp (www.sentinelmaracamp.com) had the open vehicles. There are a couple of pictures here: https://sentinelmaracamp.com/activities/ It is a high end property and each guest party is assigned its own game drive vehicle and guide/driver. This is real luxury because you can come and go as you like.

We considered private tours with Soul of Tanzania and Bush 2 City (found thru Safari Bookings site) but the itinerary (and game reserves on it) wasn’t as impressive and value wasn’t there. ...
It sounds like you're committed but for others I will recommend Busbaby Safaris (https://www.bushbaby.co.za/). We have traveled with Karen and Pierre four times and have become good friends. They are now doing some groups, but the heart of the business is 100% custom tours. These start with a blank sheet of paper (or with Karen's suggestions based on your interests) and everything is tailored to the clients' interests, food & lodging preferences, and budget. We have always traveled with Pierre as guide/driver, but they also can arrange self-drive tours in some areas. Their relationships with various properties get them pretty good discounts and guides stay usually stay for free, so the trips can be very cost effective.
 
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We went to Botswana with fellow photographers and stayed here, https://mashatu.com/


Everyone had a great view for photographing because the are open air vehicles.
Don't change lenses on your camera when out on a game drive. The dust is everywhere. Take a cloth bandana to cover face when needed. Early morning game drive are fantastic as well as evening ones.



Enjoy your adventure.
 

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Thank you for all the feedback! The photos you shared were awesome and I hope to be able to take similar pictures when we go.
It's looking like we'll be leaving in early October for a 16-day safari to Kenya and Tanzania. BTW, looking at Travel Insurance for our trip with all these uncertainties in the world and certainly in that part of the world as well, and want to know which company you guys went with. In looking at that type of insurance, costs are typically 10-12% of the cost of tour.
 
We used Travel Insured because IIRC it was recommended by USAA, or maybe even available through them. It was close to 5% of the total cost for "Comprehensive", $321 per person. (I think we didn't insure parts we knew could be refunded.)

Since I was curious, and also I looked it up to find the name, here's what was covered (remember, this was about 10 years ago):

Trip cost: $6,538.42 per person (each).

Trip CancellationUp to Trip Cost*
Trip Interruption150% Trip Cost*
Missed Connection$500 (3 hours)
Trip Delay$750 ($200/ day)
Emergency Accident & Sickness$50,000 ($50 deductible)
Emergency Evacuation & Repatriation$500,000
Pet Care$300 ($50/day)
Baggage & Personal Effects$1,000**
Baggage Delay$300 (12 hours)
Accidental Death and Dismemberment$10,000
 
... BTW, looking at Travel Insurance for our trip with all these uncertainties in the world and certainly in that part of the world as well, and want to know which company you guys went with. In looking at that type of insurance, costs are typically 10-12% of the cost of tour.
If you go to https://www.intltravelnews.com and search for "wirtanen." You will find a series of columns on travel insurance naming names and mentioning a few specialist agencies.

Lately we have been using Travelex but strictly for evacuation insurance; no trip coverage. (https://www.travelexinsurance.com/)
 
My wife and I are finalizing plans for a trip to Kenya and Tanzania in September/October of this year with Odysseys Unlimited. Anyone else have a recent experience with them on this tour or similar tour in Africa who is willing to share their experience, tips, and any lessons learned? Thanks.

We considered both Kenya and Tanzania as well, and wound up deciding to just visit Tanzania (including Zanzibar at the end of the trip), primarily because of areas we could visit and what we read about both options.

Here's a recap of our trip on our Smugmug page, which also has links to a ton of photos and videos including places we visited (Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater, Central and North Serengeti [to see the Wildebeast Crossing - truly spectacular] & Arusha National Park). Our favorites were probably Tarangire (simply due to the huge number and variety of animals), Northern Serengeti (the Wildebeast crossing was AMAZING - thundering herds of thousands of Wildebeasts crossing the rivers) and even Arusha National Park). ANP was neat because it is one of the few places you can do a walking tour vs driving as there are no large predators there, being somewhat "close" to civilization. No big predators also makes the animals a lot more relaxed, and we were able to get within 10-15 feet of a couple of giraffes at one point, which was a great way to start our trip as that's the wife's favorite animal. Then, I saw a baby Elephant (my favorite animal) and it's mom on Day 2 at the entrance to Tarangire. The trip as you'll see from the pics was simply spectacular and we cannot wait to go back.

https://jimandjeansafricansafari.smugmug.com/Trip-Overview

You can use the "Browse" button at the top at that page or any other page on the site to see the picture and video albums, which are organized by area we visited.

As a general tip, we found the info on TripAdvisor invaluable. You may have already perused that, but if you haven't - great resource.

We did one of out trips with Access2Tanzania years ago:

1) Both Kenya and Tanzania are amazing. If I had to go with one it would be Tanzania simply for the bigger access to Serengeti vs smaller Masai Mara in Kenya.

2) Hands down the highlight of the trip was the Ngorogoro crater in Tanzana. Maybe just because it was unexpected, but seeing the animals on the prowl in the depths of a crater was awesome.

3) If you are also doing a beach there, Zanzibar is unreal. The sand is like white cooking flour. Not just the color, but the texture. Other than the resorts (big and small), Zanzibar is pretty much a dump.

4) Safari drives are grueling.

We also chose Access2Tanzania as our Tour Operator. They (like many TO's) assign a guide just for you, and that guide drives you wherever you want to go in your own Land Cruiser. So, it was just me, my wife and our guide (Alex) for the entire trip, except for the time we spent sleeping and eating at the camps we chose. Alex was unbelievable and had encyclopedic knowledge of every animal, bird, plant, bush, you name it..he knew it inside out and backwards. We spent a good 12-16 hours a day with him, and have memories that will last a lifetime. So to that point - your guide will be one of THE most important things in whether you have a good trip, a great trip, or an amazing, beyond words trip. We had the latter, all because of Alex. Unfortunately, we got word earlier this year that he became ill, and died. So tragic. Young guy (30s). Few kids and a wife. Sole breadwinner. We got so close to him on our trip that this seriously affected us emotionally when we heard the news from A2T.

Probably the most important advice I can offer - if you're going on a similar (dedicated guide) trip vs a group tour with a lot of other people and haven't already done this - check out TripAdvisor and other similar sources for the inside scoop on who the good, "gotta have them as my guide" guides are. And request that person by name. We did that, and had heard that Alex was "the" guide at A2T to have. We were so blessed that A2T was able to assign him to us, and can't imagine we would have had near the experience we had with a different guide..

And to the comment about "grueling" drives - 100%. The roads (if you can call them that) are in many cases beyond awful. Our drive from Central to Northern Serengeti was pure hell (rocky, rutted, etc that the guides drive at a good clip over. We literally had pieces of the Landrover come loose and fall off). Other places, there WAS NO road - just an impression in the grass. The camp we eventually got to in the N. Serengeti and where we left to see the Wildebeast crossing was mobile, so was not off any road. Amazingly (but perhaps not surprisingly), Alex knew exactly how to find it :)..

Lastly, if you can stay in tents vs lodges (we did some of both), there's no experience in the world like being out in the middle of the African plains with no lights other than the stars and animals all around you. One night, we had a group of Cape Buffalo (VERY dangerous animal) surround our tent. Wife heard them munching the grass. The guides are even reasonably fearful of Cape Buffalo as they have a pretty mean disposition. Not as dangerous as Hippos which kill more people in Africa than any other animal, but not something to mess with. Fortunately, we were told that the animals see your tent as basically a big rock and 'typically' won't mess with them (whew) :). That was probably the most danger we were ever in aside from one night when a leopard decided to stroll down the path from our "hut" (at Tarangire Safari Lodge) to the eating area a little before we walked the exact same path..same lodge that Elephants would regularly stroll up from the valley below to visit and walk through. Nothing like being that close to the animals..as long as they aren't too hungry.

PS: the advice about changing camera lenses up-thread is spot on. You'll probably never experience as much dust as you will on an African safari. We would try to change our lenses INSIDE of cloth bags that wife sewed that had a flexible plastic lining to keep the dust out. Wife even wound up with a pretty severe eye infection from all the dust, which as we came to find out is a fairly common thing. She was absolutely miserable for a couple of days until we could get some RX meds at a pharmacy in Zanzibar. But we almost stayed back at camp instead of doing the Wildebeast crossing. SO glad we were able to see it as it's a truly spectacular event (check out videos of it on our page)..
 
We used Travel Insured because IIRC it was recommended by USAA, or maybe even available through them. It was close to 5% of the total cost for "Comprehensive", $321 per person. (I think we didn't insure parts we knew could be refunded.)

Since I was curious, and also I looked it up to find the name, here's what was covered (remember, this was about 10 years ago):

Trip cost: $6,538.42 per person (each).

Trip CancellationUp to Trip Cost*
Trip Interruption150% Trip Cost*
Missed Connection$500 (3 hours)
Trip Delay$750 ($200/ day)
Emergency Accident & Sickness$50,000 ($50 deductible)
Emergency Evacuation & Repatriation$500,000
Pet Care$300 ($50/day)
Baggage & Personal Effects$1,000**
Baggage Delay$300 (12 hours)
Accidental Death and Dismemberment$10,000


I checked out Travel Insured International and got a quote for the trip which was significantly less than what the tour operator quoted for Trip Mate (the tour operator's travel insurance provider)...I still have to compare coverages to make sure I am comparing apples to apples...but this looks promising. Thanks.
 
... I still have to compare coverages to make sure I am comparing apples to apples...but this looks promising. Thanks.
One thing I recall from those Wirtenen articles I mentioned up-thread is that there are policies that pay without regard to other policies that the insured may hold and there are policies that are secondary. In the latter case, the travel policy will not pay out until the primary policy's payments have been received. That sounds like a recipe for a hassle to me. Worth checking, anyway.
 
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