Do Not Want to Rent a Car in Italy

[brett]

We were in Sicily for 20 wonderful days. Oct 10-30. Several years ago.

We flew into Catania from Malta. Took a bus to Taormina from the airport.. Stayed 3 nights. Took a bus down the hill to the town and picked up our rental. Went toward Erice. Stay in some very small but memorable hotels, agrotourisms, B&B's.

We drove through Palermo on the way to Cefalu. Did not want to stop with the car. We kept the car and explored the area around Cefalu. Then dropped the car in Cefalu. A day in Cefalu, then we took that train to Milazzo, and then the ferry to the Aeolian Islands for a few days. Very enjoyable.

Coming back we took the train to Palermo from Milazzo and did a B&B opposite the Opera House. We could hear the performance each night from our room. Walked all over Palermo and enjoyed it very much. As we did on a previous stay in Catania. We were able to find a laundromat to wash our clothes as we picked up a last minute Med cruise while in Palermo.

One of the highlights after leaving Erice was deciding the morning of to spend a few days on the beach close to Erice. It was wonderful. Deserted, warm weather, warm water and a very attractive rate at our hotel.

We tend to be very spontaneous travelers. If we like somewhere we stay, if not we go.

You were wise to cancel your AI. Cannot imagine giving up the opportunity to try so much local food and tour about on your own. The last thing you want in Sicily is to be stuck at a place like that!

 

[rodi]

I just spent the afternoon sending map screenshots to my son (who's studying in Florence) and nephew. They are meeting in Riposto (north of Catania, south of Taormina) next weekend to visit with the 2nd cousins. It will be the nephews first trip to Italy, first trip abroad that is not a tour, first time meeting the cousins. The screenshots I sent them were basic logistics stuff: Where you get the AMT Alibus at CTA that takes you to Catania Centrale... walking directions from the Giarre-Riposto train station to the apartment they rented (same one we always rent... were there in April). And where the bar, best granita, and best pasticcieria are relative to the apartment.

It is fine to travel in Sicily without a car...even in some small towns... if they are located on the top (Messina-Palermo) or east side (Messina to Siracusa) side of the island. (That's where the trains run). Unfortunately, the OP is staying well outside Catania... so a car or car service is more necessary.

I am envious of my son and nephew... Sicily is one of my happy places.

 

[Rianne]

OP here. We booked a limo service that will take us to the historic sites we want to see. They know good restaurants, where to park, and will be there when we are ready to go home. I also found out that the owner of our Villa is helpful with transportation. There's a local car rental agency in Trecastagni so we'll have the freedom to explore. The limo service is surprisingly reasonable as far as cost. Gas is expensive in Italy. DH's sister and her husband are flying down from the Bologna area where they live. They're familiar with Sicily. I was checking the weather, looks great! Low 80s so far.

 

[brett]

Our experience on trains in Italy has been very good. On time, etc.

Not so in Sicily. They usually run late.

 

[audreyh1]

OP here. We booked a limo service that will take us to the historic sites we want to see. They know good restaurants, where to park, and will be there when we are ready to go home. I also found out that the owner of our Villa is helpful with transportation. There's a local car rental agency in Trecastagni so we'll have the freedom to explore. The limo service is surprisingly reasonable as far as cost. Gas is expensive in Italy. DH's sister and her husband are flying down from the Bologna area where they live. They're familiar with Sicily. I was checking the weather, looks great! Low 80s so far.

What about the wildfires. Lasting damage?

 

[oiseux]

We just booked a trip to Sicily and Southern Italy through Odyssey Unlimited for next October. snip

We will fly into Catania and be in Taormino for 6 nights. Then to Matera for 2 and Lecce for 2 and then Sorrento for 5 and fly home via Naples.

We originally booked a one week stay at an all inclusive resort/spa about a half hour from Cefalu on the coast through booking.com. $2000 for the week. (not including airfare, of course).Was going to fly into Palermo. snip

Catania is more of an adventure for driving, but the route from the airport is easy. Palermo is much easier to navigate, and you'll want a car to head to other areas from your time in Cefalu. And yes, you'll likely save money and eat better than taking the all-inclusive. I'm certain you'll go and find your spouse's ancestral village. That should be wonderful. Hopefully you will be able to find relatives.

I've been to Sicily five or six times, as we had an office there. Catania can be more crime ridden than the rest of the island, or used to be -- I have a burning memory from a trip a long while ago -- of the taxi driver being so nervous about stopping in a particular neighborhood. He didn't want to stop due to the risk of getting robbed. It is much better now (and in more recent trips), especially since then, I couldn't even say the name of a famous crime entity in public without inspiring concern (shhh, "don't say its name") from my colleagues. Don't let that scare you off -- all your destinations are wonderful, taking normal precautions. We in fact considering buying a place there.

 

[Rianne]

What about the wildfires. Lasting damage?

I just saw this since you ask:
https://news.yahoo.com/firefighters-battle-wildfires-sicily-163942126.html

We're calling relatives this morning to see if they know more. Thanks.

 

[Rianne]

Returned from Sicily 2 days ago. I would never/ever drive in Catania, Palermo, or any suburbs. We hired drivers who were professional, had comfortable Mercedes vans, knew where they were going, and took all liability away from us. We went to the Gambino Winery as well. I'd have a heart attack driving on the Aetna mountain roads. Plus, the cost was close to renting a car. These drivers take you where you want to go and wait for you or come back and pick you up when you're ready to go home. A no-brainer.

I will miss the food! Amazing. And we went to all the places mentioned earlier on this thread. I don't drink alcohol, but I could not pass on this wine! My DH joined the Gambino wine club and we're having wine shipped. Fresh fish, vegetables, fruit, pasta...need I go on? Our village had bakeries, a grocery store, restaurants, bars, and a town square that had festivals on the weekends, all within walking distance. Literally a few blocks. I was sad to leave.

 

[explanade]

Car rentals should cost about $50-70 a day over 1-2 week rental.

Private drivers have to cost several times that per day?

 

[audreyh1]

Returned from Sicily 2 days ago. I would never/ever drive in Catania, Palermo, or any suburbs. We hired drivers who were professional, had comfortable Mercedes vans, knew where they were going, and took all liability away from us. We went to the Gambino Winery as well. I'd have a heart attack driving on the Aetna mountain roads. Plus, the cost was close to renting a car. These drivers take you where you want to go and wait for you or come back and pick you up when you're ready to go home. A no-brainer.

I will miss the food! Amazing. And we went to all the places mentioned earlier on this thread. I don't drink alcohol, but I could not pass on this wine! My DH joined the Gambino wine club and we're having wine shipped. Fresh fish, vegetables, fruit, pasta...need I go on? Our village had bakeries, a grocery store, restaurants, bars, and a town square that had festivals on the weekends, all within walking distance. Literally a few blocks. I was sad to leave.

Awesome! Sounds like you had a wonderful time.

 

[Rianne]

Car rentals should cost about $50-70 a day over 1-2 week rental.

Private drivers have to cost several times that per day?

Are you including insurance, and gas ($8/gallon)? Plus, knowing the roads, and quickest way to destination? A knowledgeable driver who knows the best restaurants and the history of the area? Looks easy on a map. Reality is much different. The liability issues were huge. We would have been in several accidents that would have ruined this vacation. I do not believe an American could drive through Catania during rush hour or any other time and not be frazzled. The cost of the driver was ~ $2000 for the 4 of us. IMO well worth it.

 

[stephenson]

Hi All,

We visited Sicily five years ago - no issues driving, but some areas are busier than others - like Catania. Didn't go to Palermo. Easy around areas like Marina de Ragusa and a car was easy to park beside BB.

Just returned from Italy (Bari, Monopoli, and lots of day touring). No issues driving, great roads, logical roundabouts, well marked, GPS worked great, very polite, but aggressive drivers. We trained in and out but our friends drive to and from Rome and Naples without issues.

 

[brett]

Hi All,

We visited Sicily five years ago - no issues driving, but some areas are busier than others - like Catania. Didn't go to Palermo. Easy around areas like Marina de Ragusa and a car was easy to park beside BB.

Just returned from Italy (Bari, Monopoli, and lots of day touring). No issues driving, great roads, logical roundabouts, well marked, GPS worked great, very polite, but aggressive drivers. We trained in and out but our friends drive to and from Rome and Naples without issues.

This has been our experience in renting/driving in Greece, Italy, Turkey, Portugal, etc.

Over the years we have read comments about how bad the driving is. We did not find it so. We have done a great deal of driving on smaller B type roads.

We have always made it a habit to do one way rentals, to drop off a car as we enter a city where we are spending a few days and then pick up another as we leave.

We drove all over Sicily with one exception. We dropped our car in Cefalu. Trained back to Palermo for four days. The very last thing we wanted in Palermo was a rental car to park and pay the daily rental and the parking fees.

So glad that I learned to drive on a standard and drove one for many years.

 

[explanade]

Hi All,

We visited Sicily five years ago - no issues driving, but some areas are busier than others - like Catania. Didn't go to Palermo. Easy around areas like Marina de Ragusa and a car was easy to park beside BB.

Just returned from Italy (Bari, Monopoli, and lots of day touring). No issues driving, great roads, logical roundabouts, well marked, GPS worked great, very polite, but aggressive drivers. We trained in and out but our friends drive to and from Rome and Naples without issues.

Yeah I’ve driven in and out of Palermo and Catania airports but not into those cities. Usually stayed in smaller towns.

For one thing, the big Italian cities have ZTL zones so I try to avoid those citations.

 

[Rianne]

I should add one more reason we appreciated a driver. We could drink alcohol, beer, and wine and not be concerned about going from one place to another. Those who had good experiences driving in Sicily, great! I'm impressed by your driving skills. Then again, I'd be terrible driving in NY City or Chicago as well.

 

[explanade]

True, you can go wine tasting.

But can you drink in the car? Do they not have something like open container laws?

 

[oiseux]

snip
. I do not believe an American could drive through Catania during rush hour or any other time and not be frazzled. The cost of the driver was ~ $2000 for the 4 of us. IMO well worth it.

I'm glad you had a great and memorable trip. The driver was definitely the right choice for you. I think I mentioned that driving in Catania can be harrowing, and even downright unsafe in the wrong neighborhoods.

But I've been to Sicily about 5 or 6 times and the countryside, smaller towns and suburbs are really is easy to drive around and navigate. But I've also lived in Europe and have driven all over Italy and can understand the benefits of a private driver (or having a local friend/colleague drive you around). The major cities are definitely the most challenging and we tend to go carless there. Our last trip was to evaluate it as a place to buy/rent, as a base.

 

[Rianne]

I'm glad you had a great and memorable trip. The driver was definitely the right choice for you. I think I mentioned that driving in Catania can be harrowing, and even downright unsafe in the wrong neighborhoods.

But I've been to Sicily about 5 or 6 times and the countryside, smaller towns and suburbs are really is easy to drive around and navigate. But I've also lived in Europe and have driven all over Italy and can understand the benefits of a private driver (or having a local friend/colleague drive you around). The major cities are definitely the most challenging and we tend to go carless there. Our last trip was to evaluate it as a place to buy/rent, as a base.

Thanks! Yes, that simple life in the village was so cool. Fresh fruit and veggie stands, fish caught that morning or the night before. I found this interesting. "Curb appeal" in real estate here is a big deal. In this village, they avoid curb appeal and have huge locked gates, and old buildings (hundreds of years old) that are not attractive from the street. Behind our large gate and wall, is a paradise. We peeked in some of the places that looked sort of shabby from the street. Lush gardens, pools, beautiful outdoor spaces, updated. And the square on the weekends filled with Sicilians sharing interacting, eating, and drinking. It was a real community feel and we were the only Americans but they were so nice to us.