Having wood furniture refinished???

Orchidflower

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Has anyone here had any furniture refinished by a professional and felt it was worth the cost?
I have a number of pieces of Mid Century Modern (such a nice way to say crap from the '50's) and--seeing that they are in great shape still--thought I might have a professional sand them down and refinish them. I have a bedroom suite and a table I'd like redone. Amazingly, during that period of time they used real wood still.:LOL: So, they were built to last and have good bones to them.
So, any experience having furniture re-done by a pro? Any advice?
 
I've had some furniture refinished; it was well worth the cost (sentimental pieces) and I didn't have any problems. It's a lot of work, so be prepared to be a bit shell-shocked when they give you an estimate.

I suggest taking photos of your furniture before you give it to them. Make sure they list the pieces of furniture, what is to be done and the price. Tell them whether or not you want the back and underneath of your pieces to be refinished.

Don't be surprised if you have to wait two weeks to a month to get your furniture back. When you do receive it, ask them how to clean it properly.
 
Take a wild guess, BBBamI, is the cost of refinishing about 33% of the cost of buying it new? That was kinda what I was figuring.
 
Well, most of my pieces were old so it's hard to know the percentage. I did have a coffee table refinished and the cost was about $100.

They're not gonna give a flip about how expensive the furniture is...they'll just be looking at the size and detail.

One other thing...if your furniture does not have paint on it, the cost should not be quite as expensive.
 
I am not a big fan of "refinishing" old furniture. For one thing, it lowers the value (sometimes tremendously) in the aftermarket. More importantly, the nicks, bruises, and general wear and tear are what "sentimental value" is all about.

A better solution (IMHO) is to simply give them a good waxing. The results may surprise you. Of course, you must use the best wax -- that used by antique dealers is a good place to look.

Anyway, I would start with that and then decide whether spending more money will enhance or detract from their value.
 
When we moved from Michigan to Florida, the bedroom suite was really dark and just didn't fit in with the tropical decor. We found a refinisher and had it stripped of the dark finish and then if was resealed on the original oak wood color. It looked more like pecan and the finish was great. We still have it. Bought it right after we married 38 years ago. I would not refinish an antique unless it was in horrible condition. It was refished in 1990 and can't remember the cost but was was well worth it in our estimation.
 
I am not a big fan of "refinishing" old furniture. For one thing, it lowers the value (sometimes tremendously) in the aftermarket. More importantly, the nicks, bruises, and general wear and tear are what "sentimental value" is all about.

A better solution (IMHO) is to simply give them a good waxing. The results may surprise you. Of course, you must use the best wax -- that used by antique dealers is a good place to look.

Anyway, I would start with that and then decide whether spending more money will enhance or detract from their value.

+1
 
I know antique dealers use some kind of mix of turpentine and mineral oil to clean up old pieces, I think it is, and I can find that one out to use.
But, I totally agree, IF these were antiques I wouldn't dare touch them as it lowers the value. These are '50's made pieces. One, in fact, is so modern that it could be made today, surprisingly.

***Anyone know that mix with turpentine that antique dealers use to clean up their furniture:confused:? :cool:
 
Since you are usually talking about moving somewhere I would delay doing it . The furniture styles in different parts of the country vary and after you pay to move it you may not want it anymore . I know this from experience . I moved a huge dining set to Florida only to get rid of it in six months for lighter furniture .
 
I know antique dealers use some kind of mix of turpentine and mineral oil to clean up old pieces, I think it is, and I can find that one out to use.

But, I totally agree, IF these were antiques I wouldn't dare touch them as it lowers the value. These are '50's made pieces. One, in fact, is so modern that it could be made today, surprisingly.

***Anyone know that mix with turpentine that antique dealers use to clean up their furniture?

I don't know that there is an easy answer to what should be used to clean old furniture because the answer lies in what was used as a "finish" -- shellac, varnish, etc. I was always leary of using any "chemical" for cleaning preferring to use a mild soap & water solution -- Murphy's soap is good. A lot of things, including turpentine, can damage the surface beyond repair. (test in an out-of-the-way place first is a good rule of thumb.) Mineral Oil, BTW, is not really very good for anything other than maintaining a Wooden Cutting Board because it evaporates relatively quickly.

Anyway, included in my box of weapons are the following furniture waxes:

Fine Furniture Polish, Metal, Marble, Stone, Glass and Crystal Care from Antiquax (click on "Wood Care) -- Find at: Amazon.com: antiquax

BRIWAX -- Find at Amazon.com: BRIWAX CENTRAL BR-1-DB PASTE WAX 1LB - DARK BROWN: Home Improvement

black bison wax - Google Search

Oh! As we found out in another thread, the definition of "Antique" is not very clear. Officially 100 years old but not strickly held to. If the furniture was "quality" in 1950 it will have antique-like value despite its "youth."
 
RonBoyd is on the money with all his advice. Don't refinish if you want the furniture to have collectible value. Also, a good waxing can work wonders. The book I mentioned also has tips for a wide variety of finish "repairs." Why refinish if you can repair?

One that I have used is for furniture with blushing and/or surface stains: Dip some steel wool in cooking oil and rub it lightly over the surface of the piece. This has saved several pieces of furniture for me.

Reamalgamation was another nifty trick the book taught me. Gets rid of the scratches while keeping the old finish.
 
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Years ago we refinished an old dresser and night stand that my grandmother had with some Homer Formbys kit. Both came out really good, though it was a bit of work. The dresser had some scratches and initials carved into it so something needed to be done. My mom told me that at some point the legs had been sawed off the dresser, so it's not like we ruined a valuable piece. Plus it's really neat to see how nice the furniture I had as a kid turned out.

I'm not sure how much antique value 1950s furniture has, but it sounds like starting off with some of the more simple suggestions would be the right place to start anyway.
 
Not to hi jack this thread but...
Has anyone had a fold down couch/bed in a travel trailer reworked?
I have a couch/bed in my camper that has to be the worst sleeping vessel imaginable. Not that I have ever slept on it but wouldn't want my worst enemy to have to.
Steve
 
Not to hi jack this thread but...
Has anyone had a fold down couch/bed in a travel trailer reworked?
I have a couch/bed in my camper that has to be the worst sleeping vessel imaginable. Not that I have ever slept on it but wouldn't want my worst enemy to have to.
Steve

Well, I can point you in a direction that may help. Let me Google that for you:

mattress topper - Google Search

Use this as a starting place and improvise. This would allow you to retain the couch.
 
I am not a big fan of "refinishing" old furniture. For one thing, it lowers the value (sometimes tremendously) in the aftermarket. More importantly, the nicks, bruises, and general wear and tear are what "sentimental value" is all about.

A better solution (IMHO) is to simply give them a good waxing. The results may surprise you. Of course, you must use the best wax -- that used by antique dealers is a good place to look.

Anyway, I would start with that and then decide whether spending more money will enhance or detract from their value.

Agreed. I wax my antique furniture at least once a year (it also important to keep "feeding" the wood so that it won't dry out and crack). It requires a bit of elbow grease, but it brings the rich color out and gives it a good shine. If waxing is not enough, then I follow the following guideline to decide what to do next:

Furniture Care 101 and more decorating ideas, organizing tips, and homekeeping and cleaning solutions on marthastewart.com

All my pieces of furniture has nicks and scratches but I think it's part of their character. Sometimes, a scratch has to be tinted to blend in and for that I use:

http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm

When MIL bought her house, her wooden kitchen cabinets were all scratched and dull looking. She used the product above and her cabinets looked like new.
 
I did look up turpentine mixtures to clean with and it is with linseed oil (not mineral oil). I remember the 3rd item was hot water, but some dealers I know use hot coffee which makes the item prettier they said.
 
Since you are usually talking about moving somewhere I would delay doing it . The furniture styles in different parts of the country vary and after you pay to move it you may not want it anymore . I know this from experience . I moved a huge dining set to Florida only to get rid of it in six months for lighter furniture .


That means someone else in Florida bought it? :confused:
 
It do seem as if all the photos of homes for sale there have light rattan or light wood. Sounds like a junkers paradise down there...:LOL: No wonder you're doing so darn well on ebay, Moemg!
 
It do seem as if all the photos of homes for sale there have light rattan or light wood. Sounds like a junkers paradise down there...:LOL: No wonder you're doing so darn well on ebay, Moemg!

It is a junkers paradise but I sell new party dresses to thirty somethings and yes ,I do extremely well !:)
 
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