Morocco Advice for May trip.

brett

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We are going to Morocco for a month of independent travel in May.

Any advice, suggestions, recommendations etc. very welcome. Especially for short 4 or 5 day trips to the Atlas Mountains. Itineray is very open. We fly in and out of Casablanca.

We are doing the usual...using Lonely Plane Morocco and various web travel/tour sites.
 
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We are heading there in April, albeit via a trans Atlantic cruise in a Haven suite on the Norwegian Viva leaving from Puerto Rico. I will be following this thread with interest. We have two stops Agadir and Casablanca, doing the Bogart thing to Lisbon. We will not be so adventurous as you, but this is one of the last places we have not seen and look forward to suggestions ourselves!
 
We are heading there in April, albeit via a trans Atlantic cruise in a Haven suite on the Norwegian Viva leaving from Puerto Rico. I will be following this thread with interest. We have two stops Agadir and Casablanca, doing the Bogart thing to Lisbon. We will not be so adventurous as you, but this is one of the last places we have not seen and look forward to suggestions ourselves!

We were set to go last Sept/Oct. The earthquake occurred two days prior to our flight reservations. We thought it best to cancel. Fortunately our air carrier agreed to allow us to bank the funds for a limited period.
 
I was in northern Morocco less than 2 weeks ago, but only for 48 hours. So I only have limited information. I was mainly visiting Andalucia independently, but it's quick and easy to take ferries between southern Spain and northern Morocco. I spent one night in Tangier, and one night in Tetouan. I enjoyed both towns. Both are noted for their medina. Tetouan sees far fewer tourists.

Being able to speak French is extremely helpful in Morocco. Signage tends to be in Arabic & French, including labels in the museums I visited. My sense is that English is often spoken in hotels/guesthouses, though I spoke French in both places I stayed at.

I had intended to take a bus from Tangier to Tetouan, about 60 km away. However, my taxi driver taking me to the Tangier bus station suggested I take a shared taxi to Tetouan. That was good advice. The shared taxis in both Tangier & Tetouan leave from a spot adjacent to the bus station. They are large cars which can seat 6 passengers. They depart as soon as they fill up. The 50 minute trip cost US$3.50. I took another shared taxi the next day from Tetouan to the border with Ceuta, a Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast about 40 km away. (From Ceuta I took a ferry back to mainland Spain.)

Tangier has some lovely guesthouses in the medina. They're mostly French-run. I stayed at Dar Nour, and it was excellent. I stayed at a lovely riad in Tetouan called las Mil y una Noches. (Spanish, not French, is the 2nd language in Tetouan for historic reasons, though most folks seemed able to speak both.) It's in the medina but close to the royal palace. An outstanding breakfast was included at both places I stayed at.

You will be hassled to some degree by men and boys wanting to be your guide or to render some service. Tipping is expected. A couple of times when I wanted help, for example when a Moroccan man gave me a desired tour of a site which was otherwise closed, I certainly tipped him. I didn't need a tour of the Tangier medina so I politely declined--repeatedly. "Non, merci" will usually get rid of them in Tangier. I was mostly left alone in Tetouan.

Just outside the western side of Tangier medina, I was walking past a patisserie when a French ex-pat emerged and she told me me the shop had the best pastries in Tangier. They are middle eastern style sweets. I went inside and bought a "petite boite". They were superb. The shop was called Patisserie Alafrah, Route Kasba No 33, Tanger.

It's easy to get lost in the Tangier medina, and google maps isn't always 100% accurate, probably because the alleys are so narrow.

If you have any interest in visiting Gibralter, it's an easy trip from either Tangier or Tetouan, and I can explain how to do it.

Africa's first high-speed train is in Morocco. It connects Tangier-Rabat-Casablanca. If I had had more time, I would have taken it to Rabat, but the purpose of my trip was really to visit southern Spain.
 
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My French is rusty but it will gradually come back over a few days of use.

Spain is a backup for us if we find a month is too long. We had taken the ferry from Tarrifa to Tangiers in the past. We can always go to Marbella or take a LC flight to BCN. Otherwise we will spend more time on the coast south to Mirleft, south of Agadir.

Trains are very much in our plans.
 
Our roomie and his mom are doing the same thing, in May. That must be the prime time to be there :)
I will ask what they are doing.
 
We are going to Morocco for a month of independent travel in May.

Any advice, suggestions, recommendations etc. very welcome. Especially for short 4 or 5 day trips to the Atlas Mountains. Itineray is very open. We fly in and out of Casablanca.

We are doing the usual...using Lonely Plane Morocco and various web travel/tour sites.

I went with a friend for 16 days of independent travel in November 2023. We only booked the first three days in Marrakesh. Everything else was booked a couple of days ahead with booking.com app.

After exploring Marrakesh we booked a mini-tour to the Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga for overnight camping and camel rides. We booked the tour from a hotel for €100 each. The tour included transportation in a large van (very comfortable) with a total of 16 passengers. We stopped at the typical attractions and made lunch stops. The tour included two dinners, breakfasts, and one night in the Atlas Mountains. At Merzouga we were transferred to 4-wheel drive trucks, then camels for 40 min camel ride to the camp. We camped overnight in a permanent camp set up with running water and electricity. After the night camping the rest of the people went back to Marrakesh in the van. We left the tour and continued north. We were by far the oldest people on this adventure. There were some families with adult children and college age people.

The two of us arranged for a taxi to take us to our next destination, Azrou. We arrived in the small town of Azrou and experienced the weekly market. We stayed three nights and saw very few tourists. The locals were all very friendly. We had a nice hike in the cedar forests.

We next traveled to Fes by taxi and spent three nights there. We stayed at at Riad Idrissy at the Ruined Garden restaurant. We paid for a driver and explored Meknes and the Volubilis ruins.

We next went to Rabat, the capital, by train. We spent three nights there and enjoyed exploring the city.

We took the train from Rabat to Marrakesh and flew home from Marrakesh.

We didn't have any problems with people. My travel friend likes to chat with strangers and that isn't great to do there. They take it as an opportunity to get you a good deal on something or other.

The most frightening thing was the traffic in Marrakesh.

It was a great adventure and I recommend independent travel in Morocco.
 
Thanks. This is good info for us. We are both in our early 70's.

We seldom book too far in advance, no more than 2 or 3 days. Not going to commit ourselves to a tour until we get there and see the Atlas weather as there can be rain in the mtns at that time of year.

If we like a place we extend our days. Especially in Essaouria and down tthrough Agadir to Mirleft We are told that Agadir is a good place to pick up day tours.

We fly into Casablanca after a long trip and arrive 7AM. Not much in Casablanca so it seems to me that we should take the train to Marrakesh. How many days do you think are needed in Marrakesh, notwithstanding the tour. We expect to pass through the city twice since it is the hub to the some southern locations that we want to visit.

What about attire? We only travel with carry on. That usually means two pairs of shorts and one pair of jeans or cotton slacks. Will shorts be out of place in areas away from the coast.
 
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That attire will be fine. It will be hot if you travel south into Marrakech. I drank more bottled water than I knew possible.

Currency is dirhams. About 100 dirhems is 10c USD.

I took a aceeenshot of commonly used Arabic words and set it as my phone lock screen. It worked very well. Just make a list and snap a pic or find one with Google and snap a sceeenshot.

You can totally barter almost everywhere. If you have seen one Medina you have seen them all.

My dad said the food upset his stomach but I was fine.

There is a mosque you can visit as a non Muslim guest during certain hours.

Volubilis is a novel experience. If you ride a camel book through the sanctuary not the street vendors.

5 star hotels run about 800 d's (dirhems) or about $80/night.
 
What about attire? We only travel with carry on. That usually means two pairs of shorts and one pair of jeans or cotton slacks. Will shorts be out of place in areas away from the coast.
I only saw one person wearing shorts, a tourist walking in flip-flops in Tangier. He stuck out like a sore thumb. I had warm but not excessively hot temperatures.

I brought 2 pairs of lightweight convertable pants and I didn't zip off the bottoms until I was back in Spain. Many years ago when a friend & I were cycling in Tunisia, we wore shorts while biking but wore pants when off our bikes. I doubt Moroccans will say anything to you, but shorts will be noticed.

Currency is dirhams. About 100 dirhems is 10c USD.
US$1.00 = 10 dirhem
 
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We gave up the pretence of trying to look like or blend in with the locals. We can only do this in North America. Clothing, shoes, hair, speech, habits will give it away to a local in five seconds flat.
 
They are doing a guided tour, if you want to see a link to it I will post it up.
 
I went with a friend for 16 days of independent travel in November 2023. We only booked the first three days in Marrakesh. Everything else was booked a couple of days ahead with booking.com app.

After exploring Marrakesh we booked a mini-tour to the Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga for overnight camping and camel rides. We booked the tour from a hotel for €100 each. The tour included transportation in a large van (very comfortable) with a total of 16 passengers. We stopped at the typical attractions and made lunch stops. The tour included two dinners, breakfasts, and one night in the Atlas Mountains. At Merzouga we were transferred to 4-wheel drive trucks, then camels for 40 min camel ride to the camp. We camped overnight in a permanent camp set up with running water and electricity. After the night camping the rest of the people went back to Marrakesh in the van. We left the tour and continued north. We were by far the oldest people on this adventure. There were some families with adult children and college age people.

The two of us arranged for a taxi to take us to our next destination, Azrou. We arrived in the small town of Azrou and experienced the weekly market. We stayed three nights and saw very few tourists. The locals were all very friendly. We had a nice hike in the cedar forests.

We next traveled to Fes by taxi and spent three nights there. We stayed at at Riad Idrissy at the Ruined Garden restaurant. We paid for a driver and explored Meknes and the Volubilis ruins.

We next went to Rabat, the capital, by train. We spent three nights there and enjoyed exploring the city.

We took the train from Rabat to Marrakesh and flew home from Marrakesh.

We didn't have any problems with people. My travel friend likes to chat with strangers and that isn't great to do there. They take it as an opportunity to get you a good deal on something or other.

The most frightening thing was the traffic in Marrakesh.

It was a great adventure and I recommend independent travel in Morocco.
Thanks. Leaving tomorrow for 30 days. Spouse is somewhat apprehensive. We have done independent travel in many places. Your comments were helpful.

Booked short 8 day tour. Plus 5 or so days on the beach for R&R The rest we will do on our own. Small tour, with most people in their mid 60's. We are 71 so it should be fine

What surprises me is the large temperature variation between Merzouga and the coast. Fortunately we will be going to the desert at the start of our time.

We were able to buy a little MAD currency at a local FX shop. Just enough until we get into Casablanca.
 
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