Some thoughts on roofs ("rooves?").
1) Now's the chance to make some improvements (as suggested by Nords in a previous post). Have you been wanting to put a floor in the attic? It's a lot easier to get the material up there when the roof deck is removed.
2) Ventilation: The time to add more is when you are re-roofing. Lots of homes have too little attic ventilation, which drives up cooling costs in the summer, increases the potential for ice dams in cold parts of the country, and increases the potential for moisture damage (from condensation) year round. As a rule of thumb, if you have a very good vapor barrier in your ceiling your ventilation net free area should be at least 1/300th of your ceiling area. If you don't have a good vapor barrier (many homes don't) then you need a ratio of 1/150. Example: 1800 sq foot house with poor vapor barrier = 1800/150 = 12 sq feet = 1728 sq inches of net free vent area. This is divided equaly between high vents (e.g. hat/ridge/gable vents) and low vents (in the soffits). The vents are rated for the amount of net free vent area per unit or per foot, and screening/baffles reduce the net free area compared to the area of the actual hole in the roof/soffit. In the example above, if the house used hat vents with a net free area (NFA) of 85 sq inches each, then they'd need 11 of them (=935 sq " NFA) and an equal NFA in soffit vents.
Some folks like the solar-powered vents or the fans powered by house current. I've read that the house current ones usually don't save enough electricity (in reduced cooling) to offset the power they use. I think the solar ones may have a positive payback in high heat areas. Regardless, the powered vents have the potential to take their intake air from other nearby top-vents, reducing the natural convection you want (from soffit to ridge). All powered vents also have the potential to depressurize the attic sufficiently that all the normal leaks in your house living spaces could end up venting more conditioned (hot or cooled) air into the attic. Overall, I decided to go the natural route and avoid powered vents. Contractors like to sell the powered vents.
Also ensure that you've got a good way for the air to get from the soffits into the attic. They make troughs that extend through the roof bays and into the soffits to assure there's a passage through, often these are installed every third bay. These assure that your attic insulation doesn't block the passage of ventilating air passing from the soffit to the attic
3) Valleys: There are at least three ways to do them:
-- Exposed metal flashing (using a metal channel with a "w" cross-section): This is not seen very much anymore. The metal can rust (unless you use copper, etc) but otherwise the system is very bulletproof. Generally, this look has gone out of style, but it works fine.
-- Interleaved/interwoven: shingles from each side of the valley overlay to the other side in a woven fashion. Some people like the look of this (I do), but many roofers don't recommend it with thicker shingles (esp the new architectural shingles) because the shingles don't bend sufficiently and are prone to cracking and coming up if they are interwoven. So, probably fine with a 25 year three-tab shingle, not a good idea with an architectural shingle.
-- Half-lap/California Cut, etc. This goes by a lot of names, but basically involves shingles from one side of the valley extending over onto the other side, and the shingles from the other direction being cut along the line of the valley. This is the most common approach or the thicker shingles, and seems to meet manufacturers installation guidelines. This is the style I went with on my new roof (with architectural, 50 yr shingles)
Regardless of the valley shingling method selected, insist on stick-down membrane ("Ice and water guard" is what I think it is called) in all valleys.
If you live in an area that gets snow, you want the same stick-down membrane on all eaves (as protection against water damage from ice dams) extending 36" inside the line formed by the exterior wall.
Shingles: get good ones.
In some areas it makes good sense to consider a standing seam metal roof as a replacement for asphalt shingles. Yes, it's costly, but it will last 50+ years without trouble. Since you obviously live in an area where hail occurs, this is probably not a great option.
Get recommendations and go with a good contractor. If a lot of folks have damage from the storm, you might not be able to get a good local contractor immediately--if the roof isn't leaking, you might want to get on the list of a reputable contractor and wait.
We had a thread here a few months ago about gutters and leafguards, you might want to look for it.
samclem