A Bear Ate my Compost

Al - back east we used to have some 1950's era in-ground composters at a lot of houses.

Here's a similar rig, but with an above-ground cone that they claim helps speed up the composting due to solar heating of the cone. When it fills up (every year or two) just move it to a new spot.

http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/greencone/index.html

I don't think I'd pay $125 for it (plus $55 shipping), but I could see making one from available materials. Maybe going with a flat lid flush with the ground would make sense if bears are a problem.
 
I'm thinking that the problem they were solving back then was that there was no regular municipal trash pickup then and the garbage would get a little gamey sitting around until someone got around to taking a trip to the dump.

Nobody used them anymore and most of them were flush full of dirt, but I remember an awful lot of homes built in the pre-1960's that had them.

I cant see myself paying $125 for a plastic cone. Maybe $12.50.
 
Our compost pile is supporting a family of mongoose scavengers. The mockingbirds & red-vented bulbuls hate them, so when the rodents scamper up to the bin there's an amazing racket from the screeching & dive-bombing. Cheap backyard entertainment.


They may be an acquired taste, but they're no worse than what's been running around in the compost bin. Worms work faster, though.

There was a woman demonstrating vermiposting on Oprah's Earth Day show this week, but she freaked out a bit on stage and totally blew her performance. I think she set vermiposting back about a decade. But ignoring her abysmal performance, we know people who've built their own worm bins as outside benches (just lift the seat/lid) or as part of a potting shed.

I'm amazed at the volume reduction. We've spent six months putting literally hundreds of papaya rinds, banana peels, coffee filters, teabags, and other fruit/veggie remnants into a
tray of about a cubic foot (one of three trays), and it's only now starting to get full. (We've also been getting over a gallon of leachate a week for the plants.) So this weekend we'll take out the bottom (first) tray and empty it around the backyard gardenias. We'll set a new (third) tray on top of the second (now at the bottom) and begin filling it. The worms wil finish up their work on the current tray and move "upstairs" when they're ready.

There are actually people selling their worms on Craigslist. A pound of good vermiposters can go for over $150 around here... the challenge is getting them to all sit on the scale without wriggling around...

I saw that episode on Oprah.

You have a Can-O-Worms?

Is there some minimal level of food/scraps input?
 
The problem Trombone has is that bears are powerful scavengers, just look at any refuse container in bear country. If his compost pile has anything with food value a bear will tear it apart. The other issue is that if bears find food near people it isn't good for them as they will view humans as competition for their food source. If a bear becomes acclimated to humans moving isn't an option.

Better to compost food scraps in a worm bin in a secure garage and when it gets full set aside a few cups of worms, empty the bin either in the yard or compost pile, and put the cups of worms back in the worm bin.

Yes there is a 'minimum' of sorts. The worms need to have enough to eat and be happy enough to reproduce. I would start off with a gallon of dirt with lots of old leaves, add coffee grounds and a couple cups of fruit/vegetable scraps and they shouldn't want to leave. They like to live about 5 inches or more below the top of the material. When scraps are added mix it up gently, you will see the worms - who will promptly retreat to do their thing.
 
Last edited:
Concerning the worm composting:

The nice thing about they system until now was that there was zero maintenance. Since I was in no rush to get the compost, I just went out, dumped the stuff in, and I was done.

It sounds like with the worms I'll need to periodically lift and separate, etc. Yes? How often?

I've got Worms Eat my Garbage on hold at the library, so I'll take a look at that.
 
Concerning the worm composting:

The nice thing about they system until now was that there was zero maintenance. Since I was in no rush to get the compost, I just went out, dumped the stuff in, and I was done.

It sounds like with the worms I'll need to periodically lift and separate, etc. Yes? How often?

I've got Worms Eat my Garbage on hold at the library, so I'll take a look at that.

Every 8 weeks or so in my case because I was/am lazy and would just throw the veggies on the top of the pile (outdoor composter). The problem with doing that is that the veggies aren't in easy reach for the worms.
 
Years ago I had hung 12 bars of Irish Spring soap from various bushes and trees that the deer had been feasting upon. Supposedly the odor would keep the deer away. A couple of days later all the bars had been eaten, except one which had teeth marks in it. That deer or bear brobably had the runs for many days.
 
As if the woman could get through the hordes of hired help to even touch a paper towel... ::)
That hired help includes the guy who deposits the checks sent over by the grateful staff of the American Paper Towel Manufacturer's Association...

You have a Can-O-Worms?
Is there some minimal level of food/scraps input?
Better to compost food scraps in a worm bin in a secure garage and when it gets full set aside a few cups of worms, empty the bin either in the yard or compost pile, and put the cups of worms back in the worm bin.
Yes there is a 'minimum' of sorts. The worms need to have enough to eat and be happy enough to reproduce. I would start off with a gallon of dirt with lots of old leaves, add coffee grounds and a couple cups of fruit/vegetable scraps and they shouldn't want to leave. They like to live about 5 inches or more below the top of the material. When scraps are added mix it up gently, you will see the worms - who will promptly retreat to do their thing.
The nice thing about they system until now was that there was zero maintenance. Since I was in no rush to get the compost, I just went out, dumped the stuff in, and I was done.
It sounds like with the worms I'll need to periodically lift and separate, etc. Yes? How often?
I've got Worms Eat my Garbage on hold at the library, so I'll take a look at that.
Every 8 weeks or so in my case because I was/am lazy and would just throw the veggies on the top of the pile (outdoor composter). The problem with doing that is that the veggies aren't in easy reach for the worms.
Everything makes much more sense with the book.

We attended a local workshop, which included materials and an ounce of worms. (The class helped our teen get over her "yuck" factor, plus she enjoyed working with a woman entrepreneur.) We started with an 8" flowerpot, filled it with yummy shredded newspaper, and added a few tablespoons of leftover veggies. The worms burrowed into the cellulose (they're photophobic) and waited for the veggies to decompose. All we had to do was add food every day or two and a few tablespoons of water to keep things moist.

The worms don't actually eat the food-- worms got no teeth-- they slurp up the decomposed slime that's left by all the other organisms eating the food. Vermiposters are full of critters, including earwigs and compost mites. If done wrong, vermipost bins they can also attract flies (unless wet newspaper is laid over the food) and maggots (don't vermipost meat products). The critters sound pretty yucky but they stay in the vermipost. They have plenty of food & company and see no reason to go roaming. I don't know why not, but ants and mosquitos have never bothered any of our vermiposting pots or the Can-O-Worms.

The thumbrule is that an ounce of worms will eat an ounce of food a day. When we started with one wormy ounce in a flowerpot, we'd put in a banana peel or other fruit rinds every day or two. With just two of its three trays in business, our Can-O-Worms is too heavy to lift without taking it apart.

Worms reproduce by trading sperm, so they reproduce faster if they're in a smaller volume that encourages worm encounters. With the conditions of your average pot, an ounce of worms will double in about three months. A Can-O-Worms may be sold with a pound of worms but ours ramped up just fine on eight ounces. We started with a pot on Dec 30 2006, doubled by the end of March (two ounces), doubled again at the end of June (four ounces), doubled again at the end of Sep (eight ounces), and got tired of taking care of multiple pots by the end of October.

Daily vermiposting is so simple that a [-]caveman[/-] teenager can do it. Ours clears the dishes off the table, lifts the lid, throws the fruit/veggie waste onto the pile, and closes the lid. (Cutting, grinding, mixing, and otherwise playing with the pile can speed things up but it's not necessary.) Decomposition & critters do the rest and the worms slurp up the end product. Every few days I'll throw a sheet of newspaper on top of the food waste to discourage flies, but it's not a problem even if I forget for a week or two. The worms enthusiastically ramp up reproduction to accomodate the food supply (it only takes them a couple weeks to catch up) and they'll breed to equilibrium. If we go on vacation for a couple of weeks we don't have to do anything. If we left for a couple of months we could cut up a few bananas or papaya and throw them into the vermiposter, but in our neighborhood we'd turn them over to a neighbor's kid for a science project.

We just changed out a Can-O-Worms tray yesterday. (See photo link below.) We drained the bottom reservoir through the spigot (a couple cups of leachate), lifted off the top food tray and set it on a stack of old newspaper, then lifted the bottom tray of vermipost off the reservoir. We pulled a few worms off the surface of the bottom tray and emptied the tray over a couple backyard gardenias that have been looking kinda scraggly.* The top food tray went on top of the reservoir to start a new stack. We'd let it get too full so we shook some of the contents into a second tray, which went on top of the first food tray. We added some shredded newspaper to a third empty vermipost tray and added it to the top of the stack, where we'll begin adding our new food waste. The critters will immediately go to work on the waste in the top tray. The worms will spread through the bottom two trays and eventually work their way up to the top one as they slurp their way through the waste.

In 2-3 months we'll pull off the top two trays, empty the vermipost from the bottom tray, and rotate the stack.

*[-]Anal-retentive[/-] Frugal vermiposters would set aside the vermipost in a couple of covered two-gallon buckets for a few weeks, occasionally spritzing with water to keep them moist. Baby worms, only a millimeter or two long and difficult to see without a magnifying glass, would grow and congregate in the center of each bucket of vermipost. The buckets could then be cautiously emptied to expose the half-ounce or so of worms, which could be returned to the vermiposter or sold for profit. We decided that we have better things to do all day.

The rest of the photos: Nords_Nords/Vermiposting - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 

Attachments

  • Fresh yummy vermipost.jpg
    Fresh yummy vermipost.jpg
    756.4 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Okay, it all sounds great but I think I'll just keep buying bags of composted dirt over at home depot for $3... ;)
 
Okay, it all sounds great but I think I'll just keep buying bags of composted dirt over at home depot for $3... ;)
Hey, composting & vermiposting can be done for free. No one's making you buy the cool hobby supplies unless you want to.

When Ed Begley & Bill Nye roll up to your house with the rest of the Green Police, just remember that you had your chance!
 
Al,

We vermicompost with a couple of do-it-yourself-bins (I never had luck with the Can-O-Worms Nords uses, don't ask me why. Everyone else I know who uses them loves them and they make harvesting the compost so easy.

Right now we've got three bins running. I use 18-gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck totes ($6 each at local hardware store). I drill a dozen holes in the bottom (in the lowest part of the bin, for drainage), a dozen in the sides near the top (for ventilation), and fill 1/2 full with a mix of coarsely shredded newspaper (just the black and white sections, no color funnies) and coconut fiber. Moisten it up so it's about a wet as a wrung-out sponge. Toss in veggie scraps. Toss in worms. Repeat.

When it looks like your bins are mostly worm castings (you'll know, it looks like coffee grounds), put a thick layer of newspaper on the ground and dump the bin out. Wait 1/2 hour, then scrape the castings off the top and put in another container (we use 5-gal buckets). Wait another while, scrape again (like Nords said, the worms are photophobic and so will burrow down into the pile on the newspaper, which means less worm wrangling for you). Do this several times until you've got mostly worms on the newpaper. In the meantime, put fresh bedding in the now-empty bin.

When you're down to worms wriggling on newspaper, pop them back into the bin and cover it up. Feed as above.

If you're going to do this in your garage, I recommend putting some sort of drip tray beneath the bin and elevating the bin on 2x4s or so, so any leachate doesn't either drown your worms or run out and make a mess of your garage floor.

As far as the type of worms, you want red wrigglers, not earthworms. The vermicomposting worms don't live in soil. I got ours from our local organic gardening store. You're in CA, right? You should be able to get them easily. I think I paid $20 for a 500 count bag or so -- this is enough for two bins and they'll happily reproduce and make enough for all the bins you want.

They also make great snacks for chickens, if you've got any, or good bait worms if you're into fishing.

"Worms eat my garbage" is a good book -- worth the read.

Have fun with your bear....
 
Thanks guys, I think I'll try it. How many pails of scraps per month are they eating?
 
Depends on what you're putting in the bins and ambient temperature. Lettuce degrades faster than cantaloupe rinds for example. Warmer temperatures increase the speed with which things decompose, and thus how quickly the worms can get to the stuff. Our three, sort-of-tended bins (all 15 to 18 gallon Rubbermaid Totes) take care of about 4-5 gallons of scraps a week in the summer, and about 3 a week in the winter. That's total, so a single bin, in the summer, can probably do around 2 gallons (about what composting pails contain, conveniently enough). Ambient temperature in the summer is around 70, in winter around 60. Much higher than 90 and you risk cooked worms; don't put the bin in direct sun or a really hot location. And if your bin gets too soggy it'll go anaerobic and all stinky; add some dry shredded junk mail or newspaper until the excess water is sopped up.
 
"A Bear Ate My Compost" would be a good country-western song.
 
Back
Top Bottom