Any Plumbers Here?

[Elbata]

My $.02.
I've replaced many a dishwasher inlet valve, though never on the Miele.

Few thoughts: You said you have two leaks. Usually, I will almost always diagnose one problem, not two. Because you're a do it your-selfer, you may have created another problem.

Leaky valve--Is water blowing through valve and into dw even when dw is not in use, or is water leaking somewhere around the valve?

Compression hose--Don't worry about the second nut on hose, don't use plumbers tape when attaching hose, and DON'T over-tighten nut. Just get a new hose, put it on, and don't cross-thread.

I would guess the Miele is a higher-end dw. Check with the manufacturer and see if it's OK to use an after-market valve. You could be setting yourself up for a big liability, especially if the valve blows while on vacation and all that water starts to leak down on the units below.

You know the problem is the sediment, not the valve. Either figure out a way to filter out the sediment, or just go clean out the valve every so often. As you've realized, paying big bucks for a new valve is a rip-off.

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elbata Leaky valve--Is water blowing through valve and into dw even when dw is not in use, or is water leaking somewhere around the valve?

Water doesn't seem to be making it past the valve when the dishwasher is not in use. The water is leaking out of the valve itself and onto the floor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elbata You know the problem is the sediment, not the valve. Either figure out a way to filter out the sediment, or just go clean out the valve every so often. As you've realized, paying big bucks for a new valve is a rip-off.

I don't know the problem is the sediment. I suspect the problem is the sediment only because someone suggested that sediment tends to be an issue in high rise buildings like mine. Whether my suspicion is correct or not, I don't know. I'm just grasping for a solution.

Thanks for the reply.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vincenzo Corleone Thanks for all the responses. I've attached another photo of what the hose will be connecting to on the dishwasher intake valve. Its an (adapter?) elbow with male threads (I don't use the compression ring or nut that's in the photo). I think the purpose of the elbow is to allow a female 3/8 inch water hose to connect to a 1/2 inch female threaded opening on the actual intake valve (photo of that is also provided). I guess I'll just see how it goes when the new hose gets here.

A couple things (so $0.04 worth?):

Looks like the output is just a rubber hose that fits on a barb connector? That would make sense, there is very little pressure on the 'downstream' side of the valve, that just flows into the dishwasher, with little restriction, so little pressure. If you have a restriction there (the sediment you mention?) that could cause problems, and leaks. I had a screen fill with rust particles, the DW filled very slowly until I cleaned that.

If you suspect you may need to change that solenoid valve again, why not use a longer hose to the dishwasher (and maybe longer wires?), and mount the valve under the sink where it is easy to get to?

While a sediment filter might be a good idea, be aware that (at least the ones I've seen), they are not designed to be put on the hot side (plastic won't take the pressure at those temps). So you need to filter before the water heater. OK, that's three, $0.06 then. You might be able to fit one of those hose screens in one of the connections, if the valve doesn't have one built in.

-ERD50

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vincenzo Corleone Thanks for all the responses. I've attached another photo of what the hose will be connecting to on the dishwasher intake valve. Its an (adapter?) elbow with male threads (I don't use the compression ring or nut that's in the photo). I think the purpose of the elbow is to allow a female 3/8 inch water hose to connect to a 1/2 inch female threaded opening on the actual intake valve (photo of that is also provided).

As NgineER said, just unscrew the compression cap from that elbow, then thread on a standard 3/8" braided dishwasher hose. It looks like you've got a pretty standard (simple) setup. You shouldn't even need the adapters that come with dishwasher hose kits. Just find one long enough to reach.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vincenzo Corleone Water doesn't seem to be making it past the valve when the dishwasher is not in use. The water is leaking out of the valve itself and onto the floor.

Is water leaking from the valve itself, or around the threads where that elbow connects? Did you use teflon tape and/or pipe thread sealant on those threads when you installed the elbow? If not, disassemble, apply the sealant, and reassemble. Don't overtighten. Brass is soft and easy to deform.

The braided hose should have rubber washers on each end to seal that connection. Just use a small crescent wrench to snug it up, but don't over tighten.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 While a sediment filter might be a good idea, be aware that (at least the ones I've seen), they are not designed to be put on the hot side

Good point! Though they do make filters for hot water also:

https://www.amazon.com/KleenWater-Fi.../dp/B0167FZCP4

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 So you need to filter before the water heater.

That would be the better location as it would keep sediment out of the whole system, not just the dishwasher. Of course, there's no saying the sediment isn't FROM the water heater. Now you gotta replace that.

As Elbata said, fix one thing at a time...

Personally, I would just replace the dishwasher hose and call it done. It's probably cheaper to replace the valve periodically than to go to the trouble and expense of installing a filter. It just adds another maintenance item. As long as the dishwasher is used regularly to flush out the line, I can't imagine sediment being that big of a problem. Dishwashers usually only last about ten years before they need to be replaced anyway.

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 If you suspect you may need to change that solenoid valve again, why not use a longer hose to the dishwasher (and maybe longer wires?), and mount the valve under the sink where it is easy to get to?

Thanks for taking the time to respond. That's already the setup, except for the mounting. It's been just dangling there under the sink. I do need to mount it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 You might be able to fit one of those hose screens in one of the connections, if the valve doesn't have one built in.

You mean like this one: https://www.sears.com/general-pump-b...t/p-A066620986

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft Is water leaking from the valve itself, or around the threads where that elbow connects?

Leaking from the valve itself, not the threads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft Did you use teflon tape and/or pipe thread sealant on those threads when you installed the elbow?

Yes.

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft That would be the better location as it would keep sediment out of the whole system, not just the dishwasher. Of course, there's no saying the sediment isn't FROM the water heater. Now you gotta replace that.

To be clear - I live in a high rise condo. I don't have access to or control of anything outside of my unit, including the boiler/water heater.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft It's probably cheaper to replace the valve periodically than to go to the trouble and expense of installing a filter.

This was what my thinking was too. But if the thing leaks while DW and I aren't home, that could spell big trouble.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vincenzo Corleone To be clear - I live in a high rise condo. I don't have access to or control of anything outside of my unit, including the boiler/water heater. This was what my thinking was too. But if the thing leaks while DW and I aren't home, that could spell big trouble.

OP - are you able to turn off the water to the dishwasher when you go away on trips to minimize the away risk ?

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset OP - are you able to turn off the water to the dishwasher when you go away on trips to minimize the away risk ?

Yes. I've considered that option. Still considering it. Just afraid of forgetting to do it, or the valve failing.

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vincenzo Corleone Yes. I've considered that option. Still considering it. Just afraid of forgetting to do it, or the valve failing.

When I say, "...the valve failing", I'm referring to the shutoff valve. But in this scenario, both the shutoff valve AND the dishwasher intake valve would have to just happen to fail at the same time. Not a likely scenario.

[NgineER]

I would encourage you to get a new shutoff valve. Based on the picture it looks like you have a multi turn stop valve. I detest the multi turn valve as they all leak sooner or later. The 1/4 turn stop (ball valve) valves are much more reliable, so I don't think you would have to worry about the shutoff valve leaking.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NgineER I would encourage you to get a new shutoff valve. Based on the picture it looks like you have a multi turn stop valve. I detest the multi turn valve as they all leak sooner or later. The 1/4 turn stop (ball valve) valves are much more reliable, so I don't think you would have to worry about the shutoff valve leaking.

+1
Beyond that, I had a multi-turn shut off valve fail and spurt water all over for 2 days while we were away. I had not even touched it within a year or two (it was back of a toilet).

I replaced it with a 1/4 turn one.

[Gulfbeach]

Of all the threads I have read on this board, this is one of the most interesting and useful.
Thank you all so much!

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset +1 Beyond that, I had a multi-turn shut off valve fail and spurt water all over for 2 days while we were away. I had not even touched it within a year or two (it was back of a toilet). I replaced it with a 1/4 turn one.

Thank you both, NgineER and Sunset, for mentioning that. I had no idea of the trouble with those things. I should mention for clarity that upstream from the two multi-turn valves is a 1/4 turn ball shutoff valve. I think when it comes to the multi-turn valves, I'd been using the wrong term of "shutoff" instead of "stop" valve, possibly confusing the situation.

[Winemaker]

I would suspect the ultimate source of the problem would be pressure not sediment, as you mentioned you are in a high rise. Do you have a gauge that you may be able to attach to a faucet. Gauges are easily installed on laundry tub or wash machine hoses. A daily jolt of high pressure to fill the local water tank,or a booster pump in your building would be providing a daily blow with a sledge hammer to your plastic pump. Also, the addition of a water hammer tee could soften the blow.

Unless, you have a lot of sediment/crud on your faucet aerator screens or your shower heads plug up often, I would rule out sediment.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winemaker I would suspect the ultimate source of the problem would be pressure not sediment, as you mentioned you are in a high rise. Do you have a gauge that you may be able to attach to a faucet. Gauges are easily installed on laundry tub or wash machine hoses. A daily jolt of high pressure to fill the local water tank,or a booster pump in your building would be providing a daily blow with a sledge hammer to your plastic pump. Also, the addition of a water hammer tee could soften the blow.

I was thinking the same thing last night. I'm on a private well so high pressure isn't something that came to mind. City water pressure can often be much higher.

You can pick up a water pressure gauge at Home Depot like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-...IWTG/100175467

If it's above 50 or 60 psi, you may want to install a water pressure regulator.

[Vincenzo Corleone]

Really great information, everybody. Thanks very much for the help.

[Retired Expat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NgineER With that 90 degree turn adapter you'll just take the compression nut off and use the built in compression nut on the braided hose.

Don’t forget the Teflon tape! But EnginER appears correct.

The photo of your old connection looks like there was a copper supply connected to a compression fitting connected to the gasketed braided hose... hence what you are calling a double nut. A bad way to have done it. perhaps the hose was too short and they didn’t want to bother getting another one?