Bed Frame: Need Carpentry Advice

TromboneAl

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Here's our bed:

img_967989_0_66da26e0cd9e4d4530faee650084ec9b.jpg


Despite all efforts at ventilation and painting of parts with anti-mold paint, it's just too humid in the drawers, and we get mold there. So I'm giving up, and replacing the drawers with a simple open frame.

This is what the platform looks like under the mattress:

img_967989_1_4137c9796a1ea6d945a827a5e8849a0a.jpg


My plan is to replace the drawer frame with a post and rail assembly of the same dimensions, like this (side view and top view):

img_967989_2_b2c43989bb7d1c85babe15982fe5521e.jpg


Does that design seem reasonable? Should I use 2x6s or would 2x4s suffice? What type of wood/quality do you recommend?

Thanks!
 
And BTW, check out the nice dresser we got to replace the bed drawers ($100 on Craigslist):

img_967990_0_90250e538dc1bd5607ef04a6ca85ee7d.jpg
 
Big Al
Is this a water bed?
Trying to think why you have mold problem? Plus the weight involved in your design.
Steve
 
You probably would have already considered this but can you just remove the drawers? Would that look OK and work? It seems your just trying to get air circulation under the bed, right?
Steve
 
And BTW, check out the nice dresser we got to replace the bed drawers ($100 on Craigslist):

img_967998_0_90250e538dc1bd5607ef04a6ca85ee7d.jpg

So why wouldn't that dresser get mold in the drawers? If it's the humidity, a closed drawer is a closed drawer, right?

-ERD50
 
Sleeping bodies - bodies in general - output a lot of moisture.

My vote is for 2x6. Say 4-500# minimum.load in the center of an unsupported ~7' 2x4 is way too much. On our king size I went with 3/4" plywood 8" side and end rails and a doubled plywood center rail. Ledgers for the plywood base.
 
I obviously don't know enough information about the mold problem but these things come to mind:
If the moisture is coming from under the house maybe the work needs to start there.
Plastic on the ground and possibly sealing the floor joist under the bed/house.
But not knowing the type structure he lives in, leaves me guessing.
Steve

If its a rain forest you may have to punt :confused:
Have you thought of moving? :whistle:
 
We're right near the ocean, and the humidity is high.

I don't think it will look good with the drawers out, but I'll try that.

It's not a water bed. Just a regular queen. The mattress, that is.
 
A guy can't win. If it is not "dry heat", then it is "wet cold". :banghead:

I can see now the advantage of being an RV snowbird in perpetual chase of that moving target of moderate climate.
 
Al,
I have a queen size platform bed very similiar to what your design is like. The exception is the middle bed support runs the length of the bed, not the width. The platform wood is 3/4" t x 2" w and are spaced apart 2 1/2" evenly by a rubber strap (I believe you can achieve this with knotting thin rope, or just measure and nail/screw them down). This supports 7 tubular water chambers in a plastic pan, foam core mattress and the weight of 2 people (370 lbs total). 2x lumber for the platform is really overkill, side walls would be fine. I think the main problem with your current bed is limited spacing of the platform planks, too big and too close. My bed is made of teak, which is naturally resistant to water damage and used on boats.

I forgot to mention at the ends of the bed, there's a 3/4" t x 2 1/2" w board supporting the platform thats screwed through the side support frame to help distribute the platform weight load.
 
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We're right near the ocean, and the humidity is high.

I don't think it will look good with the drawers out, but I'll try that.

It's not a water bed. Just a regular queen. The mattress, that is.

My next thought was maybe you can just remove the drawers and doctor it up a bit to make it look good. Get creative, with that mind of yours I think you could easily come up with a couple of modifications with drawers removed that would look good. You may have to do some stain matching or something though.
Steve

Edit: How about, remove draws. Install vertical boards of matching wood/grain & matching stain color in a picket fence design? Where the drawers once were? That would give you space between each board for air. Maybe use something like 3/4 inch thick material and maybe 3 inches wide. I think it could be done and look good. Just the easiest thing that comes to my mind. I'm always looking for the quick easy way out. Just like retiring.:cool:

Edit Edit: Rewahoo's idea (below) seems to be more fun/interesting :ROFLMAO:
 
T/Al, we had a similar problem with a bed frame we didn't like and disguised it with a bed skirt. Women know this stuff. It something you lay on top of the bed platform,
box spring and matress on top of that and it hangs down the side and hides whatever is under the bed. We don't have that problem but DW likes that design so we have a bedskirt whether we need it or not. Go online and check it out.

Might be easier to just take the drawers out and eliminate the moisture problem.
 
No advice from me as what I know about carpentry would fill a thimble.
But I can attest to the mold problem from my time living in Monterey, CA some twenty years ago. I recall being quite stunned when opening drawers to see that white powdery mold. We used to run a dehumidifier and set out those damp rid products in the plastic containers. Mold or no mold, I would move back in a second. I loved it there.
 
T/Al, we had a similar problem with a bed frame we didn't like and disguised it with a bed skirt. Women know this stuff. It something you lay on top of the bed platform,
box spring and matress on top of that and it hangs down the side and hides whatever is under the bed. We don't have that problem but DW likes that design so we have a bedskirt whether we need it or not. Go online and check it out.

Might be easier to just take the drawers out and eliminate the moisture problem.


Perfect, easy, cheap. Good call.
 
Yes, just noticed the bed skirt post..
This would be easier, quicker and cheaper.
I actually like the idea.
The only draw back is, you don't get to use your cool saws, hammer, drills etc. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
No noise or saw dust. That's no fun at all. You may need to go out on the patio or deck and drink a beer while they install this thing:rolleyes:
Steve
 
Have you considered installing a combination underbed vent fan/vibrator?

Considered it and did it. The fan is still in there. I had it on a timer so that it would get aired out for an hour a day. All that happened was that it transferred the moldy smell into the air.

The only draw back is, you don't get to use your cool saws, hammer, drills etc. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Too true. I'm already having fun planning it. But I will try the drawerless stuff first. I just don't want it to look like something from ThereIFixedIt.com.
 
Al,
If non of these suggestions (above) work your best bet/wager is bunk beds slide together with the bottom mattress and springs removed. That should give you plenty of air space and circulation.:D This should cover the smell, bad odor, farts and you name it. I don't even think you will bother the black dog. :rolleyes:
Steve

PS. I've had a lot of laughs drinking a few brews and thinking about your BS problems today. :cool:
 
We had a king size platform bed (inotherwords, no foundation/box spring required) It had a design similar to what you suggest, but the side rails were fairly substantial, partly for looks. However, it had a center leg come down to support the center rail. Of course, more support was required because it was a king size bed.
 
T-Al,
Did any of the suggestions work out for you?
Just wondering if you were able to incorporate any thing that actually seems to be working.
Steve
 
I think I'll be going with the original plan, when I get around to it. Thanks for the ideas anyway.

It didn't look good with the drawers out...
 
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