Build quotes for new 2 car garage

[Music Lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by doneat54 Could be a local code, not sure. I still wouldn't want a slab. I'm sure others have had good luck with them, but I've seen enough cracked foundations and frost heaving, I'll pay the extra for that.

My 20+ year old garage slab in the Canadian prairies is crack free as well as my parent's 35 year garage slab, and we're in about as harsh a climate as you can find anywhere on the planet.

It's all about the quality of the pour.

[Winemaker]

In 2008, I had a 26'x26' 2 stall brick garage built, for $48,000. We had to put a 6' block buildup as the rear of the building was slightly over a embankment. Price included foundation, rear block walls to bring it to slab level, 8" concrete slab, 8' entrance slab to bring driveway up to garage entrance, 30 year shingles, and drywalled interior. I did the wiring and insulation in ceiling and walls, electric doors and openers.

Covenants in our home deed requires any outbuilding to be made the same material as house. Our house has 100% brick showing, so the garages is the same, with matching quoins.

[38Chevy454]

I can only say the price of materials is not helping you out. Do agree the local contractor seems a good choice. Interior is just going to be the bare studs for now? Then you are going to add additional electric and insulation before fishing out the walls? Ceiling or open to the trusses? All of the interior finishing takes materials and labor. Conventional stick built is easier for DIY interior work as all of the materials needed are standard. Even if you do not have the contractor install it, have the HVAC pre-plumbed if you are going to eventually do that. Consider having the contractor put the ceiling in and use LED lighting. Installing a ceiling is tough work, much more than walls. Another consideration is wall height, I think at least 10 ft is nice, 12 even better. 8 ft is just too short if you want to do anything other than park stuff, not good for working.

Highly recommend to put as much insulation as you can, it pays off in both cold and hot temps by moderating the inside temps. Cost differential for 2x6 vs 2x4 walls is not much. Also consider the fact that extra width or length is the cheapest way to get increased storage and space. Keeping intervals at 4 ft lengths is better for use of materials. No matter what, as soon as you build it you will wish it was bigger

If you haven't already been on the site, www.garagejournal.com has lots of discussion for garages and ideas. Check it out.

I have a 50x70 with 16 ft walls detached garage. I did most of the interior finishing work: lots of extra electrical, built a mezzanine 8x40, built lot of shelves, big workbench and pegboard area, added air lines all around shop, enclosed the walls, installed heater, and many smaller items. Lot of work, but it saved me considerable doing all the interior work myself. Contractor did the white painted metal ceiling and lighting since that is 16 ft height. Also have a 1/2 bath in the garage, very nice for cleanup or bathroom needs without having to go into house. I keep my motorhome inside (out of weather and no winterizing), and all my old cars along with my car working area. Feel very fortunate to have it all set up. Kind of a long term fulfillment of ideas and plans.

[finnski1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by doneat54 Could be a local code, not sure. I still wouldn't want a slab. I'm sure others have had good luck with them, but I've seen enough cracked foundations and frost heaving, I'll pay the extra for that.

My slab is fine but I made a mistake building the garage.

I didn't put any knee wall of concrete around the perimeter before building the framing on the slab.
Also didn't insulate the slab. As a result I had the snow melt/rain/ condensation wicking thru my wall plates even though they were pressure treated with a foam sill seal underneath.
This caused the water to wick up into my studs and plywood well over a foot high.
This led to an at least 3 week project to fix.
Had to fashion beams/gussets to allow me to lift/support garage wall,
create forms, pour 16 bags of concrete, let everything cure then remove forms, repair siding etc. Came out well but was a lot of work.
I can understand why you don't want the slab but my mistakes were self inflicted and not the quality of my slab which has been excellent.

[wmc1000]

For comparison, here in central indiana, we are currently waiting for 32' x 56' x 12' pole barn to be erected this month on our property.

We had the base area excavated since our SIL has a good sized backhoe to do that and spread a 10" gravel base for the concrete floor to be poured.

Building will have a man door, 9 insulated double hung windows and a 10x10 insulated overhead door. Sides are all wainscoted and a 1 foot overhang on the roof all around.

Ceiling will be metal with R-45 blown in insulation. Walls will have 1/2" EPS under metal siding to which I will be adding another 5.5" of XPS insulation in the future.

No insulation under the 4" concrete slab but contractor is putting 2" 2' deep perimeter insulation all the way around.

Concrete slab will also have a 12" x 12" drain in the near the overhead door so I can wash vehicles off in the winter.

6" guttering and snow guards included.

Electricity to be added later although contractor will place a stub out so it can run through slab rather than through exterior wall.

I got permit over the phone for $100

Total erected cost for building and concrete including our expenses for stone and permit is $48,600

[pb4uski]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Music Lover My 20+ year old garage slab in the Canadian prairies is crack free as well as my parent's 35 year garage slab, and we're in about as harsh a climate as you can find anywhere on the planet. It's all about the quality of the pour.

+1 In our old house we put in new frostwalls and repoured the garage floor and we still had cracks... OTOH, no cracks at all in the perimeter slab of our current garage after 8 years. Frostwall footings don't guarantee a stable garage floor.

One thing that helps is to not be stingy with foamboard. Because the water table is so high at our lakehouse we couldn't put the footings below the frostline. I was nervous but the builder was confident and he was right. He brought in boatloads of crushed stone so under the foundation would drain well and then put foamboard below grade around the outside perimeter of the foundation to prevent frost from getting to the foundation. We've never had a problem in a very harsh winter climate.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by finnski1 My slab is fine but I made a mistake building the garage. I didn't put any knee wall of concrete around the perimeter before building the framing on the slab. Also didn't insulate the slab. As a result I had the snow melt/rain/ condensation wicking thru my wall plates even though they were pressure treated with a foam sill seal underneath. This caused the water to wick up into my studs and plywood well over a foot high. This led to an at least 3 week project to fix. Had to fashion beams/gussets to allow me to lift/support garage wall, create forms, pour 16 bags of concrete, let everything cure then remove forms, repair siding etc. Came out well but was a lot of work. I can understand why you don't want the slab but my mistakes were self inflicted and not the quality of my slab which has been excellent.

Great fix, and terrific pictures.

[skyking1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by finnski1 My slab is fine but I made a mistake building the garage. I didn't put any knee wall of concrete around the perimeter before building the framing on the slab. Also didn't insulate the slab. As a result I had the snow melt/rain/ condensation wicking thru my wall plates even though they were pressure treated with a foam sill seal underneath. This caused the water to wick up into my studs and plywood well over a foot high. This led to an at least 3 week project to fix. Had to fashion beams/gussets to allow me to lift/support garage wall, create forms, pour 16 bags of concrete, let everything cure then remove forms, repair siding etc. Came out well but was a lot of work. I can understand why you don't want the slab but my mistakes were self inflicted and not the quality of my slab which has been excellent.

OUCH!
Very nice fix though.

When I built ours, I specified a 1' high stemwall for a couple of reasons. I'm always working with heavy things, jacks and jackstands, structural steel, welders, big table saws. I wanted that concrete bumper of sorts. The other and main reason was 9' ceilings. I could use regular 8' sheeting and studs and have 9' ceiling and 8' doors. When you are messing with 8' sheets of finish plywood, that extra height is handy. Also nice for taller trucks and canopies.

[finnski1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyking1 OUCH! Very nice fix though. When I built ours, I specified a 1' high stemwall for a couple of reasons. I'm always working with heavy things, jacks and jackstands, structural steel, welders, big table saws. I wanted that concrete bumper of sorts. The other and main reason was 9' ceilings. I could use regular 8' sheeting and studs and have 9' ceiling and 8' doors. When you are messing with 8' sheets of finish plywood, that extra height is handy. Also nice for taller trucks and canopies.

yeah I should have used stem walls.
I do have 10 1/2 foot ceilings though.

[skyking1]

Nice for rolling sheets on corner
Mine was about 15K in 2005, all in. I paid 2k for the flatwork complete, including an extra 8x12 shed slab and a 4x20 handicap ramp. I did all the form work.
I think I paid 1200 for the footing labor and form rental.
All of our structures are 1' standing seam metal roofing. Neighbor worked for the manufacturer and it was a very good deal.

[427Vette]

Just for comparison I am just now starting to build a 52’X104’ with 16’ sidewalls. It will have 3 20’ wide by 14’ high insulated garage doors, floor heat, full bathroom etc. I am doing the plumbing, heating and electrical myself. The building materials price two years ago was $75K. Now it is $120K. I am going to have $210K in it when completed.

[skyking1]

I want the next shop to look like a barn. We are country people, love a good barn. I am thinking a gambrel barn roof with shed dormers like this for the loft.

I'd do this on the southern exposure, and leave the north roof alone. That would be the high bay for the RV and have only a small loft above. The main loft would be set up as an apartment above the wood and metal shops. Board and batten siding and standing seam metal roof.
Build it first and then move in while building a craftsman styled rambler.

I really love a gothic roof barn but there is no way to tastefully put windows or skylights in it.
It would be blasphemy

[doneat54]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38Chevy454 I can only say the price of materials is not helping you out. Do agree the local contractor seems a good choice. Interior is just going to be the bare studs for now? Then you are going to add additional electric and insulation before fishing out the walls? Ceiling or open to the trusses? All of the interior finishing takes materials and labor. Conventional stick built is easier for DIY interior work as all of the materials needed are standard. Even if you do not have the contractor install it, have the HVAC pre-plumbed if you are going to eventually do that. Consider having the contractor put the ceiling in and use LED lighting. Installing a ceiling is tough work, much more than walls. Another consideration is wall height, I think at least 10 ft is nice, 12 even better. 8 ft is just too short if you want to do anything other than park stuff, not good for working. Highly recommend to put as much insulation as you can, it pays off in both cold and hot temps by moderating the inside temps. Cost differential for 2x6 vs 2x4 walls is not much. Also consider the fact that extra width or length is the cheapest way to get increased storage and space. Keeping intervals at 4 ft lengths is better for use of materials. No matter what, as soon as you build it you will wish it was bigger If you haven't already been on the site, www.garagejournal.com has lots of discussion for garages and ideas. Check it out. I have a 50x70 with 16 ft walls detached garage. I did most of the interior finishing work: lots of extra electrical, built a mezzanine 8x40, built lot of shelves, big workbench and pegboard area, added air lines all around shop, enclosed the walls, installed heater, and many smaller items. Lot of work, but it saved me considerable doing all the interior work myself. Contractor did the white painted metal ceiling and lighting since that is 16 ft height. Also have a 1/2 bath in the garage, very nice for cleanup or bathroom needs without having to go into house. I keep my motorhome inside (out of weather and no winterizing), and all my old cars along with my car working area. Feel very fortunate to have it all set up. Kind of a long term fulfillment of ideas and plans.

So the thought is that if I can get it built this year, late summer early fall latest, I can get the electrical set up the way I want, then insulate and probably do the lower 4' in plywood myself (on a 12" kneewall +sill boards), then I might farm out the drywall before winter hits. I actually have a drywall lift, but that kind of stuff, high over a cement floor, I'll pay some one to do. Will probably do air lines as well, I have big upright Quincy compressor that will get relocated there.

I am trying to replicate, to some degree, what I have in our existing main home; a 24x24 shop with workbenches (30' worth) upright air compressor, shelving, etc, but also a workbench space that I have in our basement here for other work that can be done year round without extra heating (that's the rear workshop in the new garage).

HVAC plan is to place the furnace in the back shop against the garage space wall with a top hat plenum like I have now, and a shutterable vent into the garage space. Need for heated garage space will be limited to whatever car work I need to do in the winter. This property has a 24'x55' 120 year old barn with 3 levels, but basement level is low ceiling height and dirt floor. OKfor car storage, but not car work.

I will wire for LED lighting. I have the Barrina 4' sticks in the woodshop in the barn now. Great light, about $45 for 6 sticks and all the interconnect cables and brackets. Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now, and it is perfectly adequate. No RVs, big vehicles or lifts.

Thought is that unlike the home shop, most of the garage will be for car storage, a modest workbench area and most of the hand tools, but the real workspace will be in the workshop behind. I'd like to keep it so I can put 3 vehicles in the garage if I have too with one across the back. Fortunately my 3 vintage cars are fairly small.


With the huge barn, I have ZERO use for lofts, or above ceiling storage space in a new garage, so not paying for that.

So mentally, as much as spending that much money on this garage is, I am getting closer to committing to it. The phone call with the contractor Monday should be the go/no go point. All of your inputs and experience in this thread has been helpful. Lots of man caves/she sheds out there!

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by doneat54 Could be a local code, not sure. I still wouldn't want a slab. I'm sure others have had good luck with them, but I've seen enough cracked foundations and frost heaving, I'll pay the extra for that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Music Lover My 20+ year old garage slab in the Canadian prairies is crack free as well as my parent's 35 year garage slab, and we're in about as harsh a climate as you can find anywhere on the planet. It's all about the quality of the pour.

I dunno. Here in N-IL, my previous home's garage had a foundation for the walls, but not across the garage door opening. Every winter, the garage floor would heave at the opening, and I'd need to adjust the garage door so it wouldn't hit the raised floor and go back up (the safety mechanism).

When we had an addition put on, and they had to do some concrete work, the contractor asked if I'd like that fixed. They dug a trench, added a footing, and problem solved.

-ERD50

[skyking1]

My garage has that footing. We don't have the frost here though. It was more for the alternate shear wall design.

[wmc1000]

Quote:

Originally Posted by doneat54 I will wire for LED lighting. I have the Barrina 4' sticks in the woodshop in the barn now. Great light, about $45 for 6 sticks and all the interconnect cables and brackets. Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now, and it is perfectly adequate. No RVs, big vehicles or lifts.

doneat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height.

How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000.../dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000L...sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

[doneat54]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmc1000 donoteat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height. How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000.../dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000L...sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

I've had the Barrina's like in your links in my main home shop for 3-4 years now, no problems. Some are on the ceiling, and some under the lowest shelf on the wall above the workbench.

In the wood shop in the barn at the lake, I have these:

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integ...BVM/ref=sr_1_2

But the ceiling there is like 7.5', they work very well with that, but I'd think with a 12' ceiling might not be best.

I also have in my shop at the main house a couple "high bay" LED lights like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Indu...VM/ref=sr_1_17

The ones I bought were even brighter, and more expensive than those. I think around $150 each and stupid bright. I have them on a second switch/circuit and turn them on only when I need them. They are designed for high ceilings. I'd get those if I had a 12' high ceiling.

[38Chevy454]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmc1000 donoteat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height. How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000.../dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000L...sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

I use those T5 4 ft lights on the underside of my mezzanine area that is also my workbench and fabrication type area. Great lights for cheap. I have them linked together in a line with 4-5 lights per circuit, with 3 circuits for different area. I bought mine cheap off ebay, in a big box of like 25 light fixtures. I also used these same lights for better lighting in my house attached garage, and in my basement storage area. Way better than the (cheap mostly ineffective) simple screw in bulb fixtures that were put in by builder.


My detached garage I have 16 (edit) 12 of these big LED lights, great lighting throughout the garage. They are almost too bright to look at directly, but great lighting down at floor level:
https://www.beeslighting.com/LHB-110W-U-50K-D10

[latexman]

75000/24/34 = $92/sq. ft. and no land. Seems high, but NASDAQ Lumber futures are at a 10 year high.

Can you wait? The contractors are scared of the material prices.

[skyking1]

Quote:

Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now

That is a good balance. Still high enough for most projects but low enough to heat quickly and efficiently.