Concrete spalling repair.

[KCGeezer]

A previous owner used an epoxy/pebble solution on the steps at my lake house. Time and weather was breaking it down and I’m looking to the DIY’s here for best solution.

Any specific advise from your experience would be appreciated. I’m leaning toward Sacrete Top n Bond right now. Redoing it with a new layer of epoxy/pebble might be an option but would prefer not to have to wear shoes just going out to the car.

Have another day or two of prep to get down to a solid surface. As with so many projects like this, it all comes down to the prep.

For some reason I can’t post a picture of it. I’ll try and figure that out. Anybody have a success story to share?

[Freedom56]

Without seeing a photo of the problem makes it difficult to assess but you may want to look at products like "Stamp Top" that allows you to put a 1/4" layer over existing concrete for stamping.

[KCGeezer]

Ahh, had to modify a setting. Not the best pic but it’ll give you the idea.

[mountainsoft]

I have no experience in this area, but would it be easier/cheaper to just bust out the bad concrete and pour new slabs?

I know they make concrete topping mixes just for this purpose, but I've never used them to know if they are reliable.

Could you chisel/grind down to a solid surface, then install tile on the concrete?

Alternatively, could you install concrete pavers on top of the existing slabs? It would obviously raise the height a couple inches or more.

[Bamaman]

I poured 27 steps down to our boathouse at our lake house about 40 years ago. We have 5 of those steps leaning because of huge oak tree's roots have bucked up one side.

Unfortunately the best way to handle problem concrete is taking out he problem concete with a jackhammer. And I happen to have a 40 pound hammer and also a concrete mixer. So my 2022 Spring project will be to repour those 5 steps. And then I'll permanently retire from the concrete business permanently.

[Sunset]

Just thinking here:

How about knocking all the loose stuff off with light hammering, then drill some studs/screws into the sidewalk say 4 per step all spaced apart.

Build a form around each step to add 2'' of height and 2 inches of length to each step.

Then pour new concrete.

Basically making a 2" thick new set of steps on top of the old one, and as the new one has the support of the old one, it doesn't need to be thick.

By doing the front of each stop and not just the tops, the steps will look nice as walking up them (won't see any layering).

[pb4uski]

^^^ interesting idea, but before I did that I would just put some decking material on top if the existing... for example 5/4" cedar decking and fasten to the existing steps as that would only add 1" to each step.

Perhaps put some 1/4" thick cedar strapping on the step and the 5/4" decking on top of that to provide ventilation spacing.

You could also do the risers if you wanted a nicer look.

[KCGeezer]

I appreciate the responses.

I’m not taking on complete removal and repour myself and trying to get a contractor isn’t in the cards for this year.
Wood overlay was a thought but solving for drainage, insect/critter nesting is making me go back to a top coat solution. Adhering to the existing cement will be the important part whether I add an additional inch or two or not. It’s all foot traffic so a skim coat may be strong enough.

I’ll ponder on it some more when I’m back to hammering, scraping, and prepping. Not going to happen today with it being 90 and muggy.

[Tom57]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset Just thinking here: How about knocking all the loose stuff off with light hammering, then drill some studs/screws into the sidewalk say 4 per step all spaced apart. Build a form around each step to add 2'' of height and 2 inches of length to each step. Then pour new concrete. Basically making a 2" thick new set of steps on top of the old one, and as the new one has the support of the old one, it doesn't need to be thick. By doing the front of each stop and not just the tops, the steps will look nice as walking up them (won't see any layering).

The problem is that new concrete does not stick to old concrete. If you Google this subject some people will disagree but most people will agree that new concrete does not stick to old concrete. There are some things like the studs/screws you suggested, additives, bonding agents, etc that may work depending on your weather conditions and how long you want the chosen solution to last.
Do research before choosing a solution.

[zinger1457]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCGeezer I’ll ponder on it some more when I’m back to hammering, scraping, and prepping. Not going to happen today with it being 90 and muggy.

I would rent/buy a hammer chisel drill to remove the old top coat, much easier than doing it by hand. Here's a video on resurfacing a concrete walkway, might work for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLvfk4ho3E0

[pb4uski]

Wow... that looks really good.

[KCGeezer]

thanks zinger! I had not seen that particular video. Their product sounds very similar to the one I was considering. I always appreciate someone who is that experienced in his trade. Makes it look sooo easy.

[freedomatlast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCGeezer Any specific advise from your experience would be appreciated. I’m leaning toward Sacrete Top n Bond right now. Redoing it with a new layer of epoxy/pebble might be an option but would prefer not to have to wear shoes just going out to the car.

That's exactly what I would use. I've used this many times for jobs similar to yours and its turned out great and held up over time. I've found the big box stores don't carry it but many of the better local hardware stores and lumber yards do.

[Badger]

What about putting a textured/non-slip porcelain or stone tile on the steps. Easy job. Looks good. No spalling. A lot more attractive than concrete.



Cheers!

[KCGeezer]

Thanks for the confirmation on Top and Bond freedomatlast.

No matter what the final finish looks like this part (the prep) has to get done. I’ll be taking my time doing that to make sure I get the best bonding possible. It’s not a ‘fun project’ with the heat and humidity. If I remember my retiree union rules, ‘non-fun, non-critical’ projects have a pretty low hrs per day allowance.