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Originally Posted by ronin
No strings required!  |
Great photo, but I'd like to see what happened to the subject of it in the subsequent 15 seconds... and if he wasn't wearing a leash, how far did he have to chase that board?
Much better today.* Clean 8-10 footers, peeling off into left & right breaks with only occasional closeouts.* The waves were big enough that I saw a couple guys trying for tube rides (ouch).* Boogie boarders were getting tubed less than 25 yards from the beach.* There weren't many rips or side roads or breaks today; we had to paddle out through all the mess and it was darn near endless.* I'd spend 15-20 minutes getting to a good spot and I'd sit up to try to catch my breath and enjoy the view of Diamond Head when suddenly aiiieeeeeeeee... a no-paddle takeoff.* It doesn't get any better than this.
The epoxy board is a hit.* Very responsive and easy to steer.* I thought I'd miss the thrusters but I'm having too much fun to notice.* It weighs a bit more than our 9'2" foam/fiberglas longboard but it seems to have more buoyancy, and it does have a wider profile near the tail.* I also think it's easier to paddle out but I might be prejudiced.
I saw a kid (age 12? 13?)* paddling out on the same board (he was surfing with his dad) and when I when I came in I walked past them.* They were eyeballing my board so I asked the kid how he likes it.* His dad said "It's great!"* I asked the kid how long he's owned it.* His dad said "A couple years, and we really like it a lot!"* I said to the kid "Your dad hardly ever lets you use that board, does he?" and he finally got a word in edgewise:* "Nope."
I met C.J. the USMC colonel in the parking lot as I was unloading.* He healed up fine and he doen't bear any ill will.* He did say that he'd gone off the lip this morning and found the bottom, which is not easily done at White Plains beach, so I think he's one of those thrill-seeking high-risk Marines who's always getting dinged up.* (I know, Jarhead, all those modifiers to the word "Marine" are just redundant...)
800 mg of ibuprofen, an afternoon nap plus a good night's sleep, and I'll be ready for tomorrow!
School has a day off next Monday and in a stunning surprise, my daughter asked if I could drive her posse to the beach.* We'll be taking four 12- & 13-year old grrrrls, three surfboards, four boogie boards, a couple cameras, and plenty of food & frosty beverages.* They'll probably want me to rent my own pavilion so that they don't have to be seen with me, but I'll be spending the day on the waves anyhow.* Is this a great country or what?!?
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