Desktop Power Supply Died

[rbmrtn]

I went ahead and ordered a used PC from ebay (same model as the Dell I have), with no OS. (For about $50). I'm hoping, with that I can just transplant all my stuff (hard drives, DVD burner, graphics card, memory) to that computer, then do a restore of my system and data from Macrium Reflect image copies.

If it is the same model all you should have to do is swap the parts into it. Shouldn't have to reload anything ( unless your HD died ).

 

[easysurfer]

If it is the same model all you should have to do is swap the parts into it. Shouldn't have to reload anything ( unless your HD died ).

Good point.

Thanks for keeping me honest and not over thinking things.

 

[easysurfer]

If it is the same model all you should have to do is swap the parts into it. Shouldn't have to reload anything ( unless your HD died ).

Okay. So I realized, the one I ordered has a faster CPU. Other than that, it should be the same.

I'm thinking, regardless of whether I get one with a faster CPU or not, won't I probably be having to reactivate Windows since the physical motherboard will be different?

I went ahead I ordered a CPU of the same as what I had and a replacement MB. Now I have a plan B if needed, plus they were pretty inexpensive and I'm kinda in the mood to tinker.

 

[rbmrtn]

There is an algorithm that triggers the activation based on hardware changes, usually it requires multiple changes to trigger.

But since you have a OEM machine ( Dell ) and replaced it with a product from the same OEM it shouldn't make a diff what was changed. The OEM will auto activate. If you have a retail version of windows that you bought, then you might have to reenter the product code.

 

[easysurfer]

I'll probably go for the path of least resistance first along with the machine with the faster CPU.

But I had an offer I couldn't refuse , ordering a motherboard for about $18 and a replacement cpu for about $7 off ebay.

I was curious to see how burnt, if any the cpu on my fried motherboard was. So today, I took off the heat sink. But the thermal paste was so tight that the CPU came off with the heat sink instead of staying at the cpu socket. Upon examination, the CPU didn't look too burnt (unlike others I've fried before ), but in yanking off the heat sink and trying to put that back on, I bent several of the pins (sucks having old eyes that I can't see up close like a few years ago!).

 

[easysurfer]

I'm now on Plan C...waiting for a replacement motherboard and CPU.

Plan B (installing on a check no-OS computer) didn't work as I ended up spending 3 hrs doing the ram stick shuffle...trying to get the ram slots to see my ram sticks properly .

 

[target2019]

What PC model is this?

 

[easysurfer]

What PC model is this?

Dell Optiplex 740 tower.

 

[target2019]

Dell Optiplex 740 tower.

I recall mucking about with one of those last year. Details are kinda fuzzy, but I recall memory, cpu and fan problems. Eventually I just tossed it after hours of learning nothing.


I think that was an AMD cpu?

 

[easysurfer]

I recall mucking about with one of those last year. Details are kinda fuzzy, but I recall memory, cpu and fan problems. Eventually I just tossed it after hours of learning nothing.


I think that was an AMD cpu?

Yeah.. I have a AMD cpu.

 

[rbmrtn]

I'm now on Plan C...waiting for a replacement motherboard and CPU.

Plan B (installing on a check no-OS computer) didn't work as I ended up spending 3 hrs doing the ram stick shuffle...trying to get the ram slots to see my ram sticks properly .

What exactly was the memory problem ? I've refurbed a few optiplex, don't recall a memory issue ( assuming the correct memory being used ). Only trick is it uses matched pairs ( slot 1 & slot 2 [ one in each bank ]) , or a single DIMM in slot 1

 

[easysurfer]

What exactly was the memory problem ? I've refurbed a few optiplex, don't recall a memory issue ( assuming the correct memory being used ). Only trick is it uses matched pairs ( slot 1 & slot 2 [ one in each bank ]) , or a single DIMM in slot 1

I never got past the memory issue on that board. As mentioned I tried for 3 hrs and even used four 1GB chips, one in each slot but still the board wasn't happy. Perhaps the memory slots on that board is no good.

I got another MB from another order to try and am waiting for the CPU to arrive (Fri and Sat). Then it's is time to roll up my sleeves and try again. I'm hoping, I just put in the memory, and no fuss no muss. We shall see....

 

[kneehigh]

So you went from psu to cpu and then ram. Not likely that all three went kaput. You know for sure the power supply went out because that is usually the only thing that could possible "pop" and give you that electrical burnt smell, but you already know that. Since you're starting practically from scratch, you're better off, and hopefully you got lintel chip this time. True, you don't need to overkill with the specs unless you are playing games, doing CAD or animation. You can actually do quite a bit with the lower end system and then replace it in another two years or so if you outgrow it. If you don't plan to drive on the autobahn, then don't waste your money on a Ferrari--unless you just want to look pretty! Have fun building your system...

 

[target2019]

Sometimes memory fits the physical slot, but no go. I think 1GB sticks were beyond the specs for that 740 optiplex.

 

[easysurfer]

Sometimes memory fits the physical slot, but no go. I think 1GB sticks were beyond the specs for that 740 optiplex.

I think the optiplex takes up to 8 GB of ram. Before the PSU problem, my computer had two 2 GB memory sticks and two 1 GB memory sticks installed.

 

[rbmrtn]

Yes, it supports up to 8GBs. One problem you have is you've got 3 essential components (PSU/MoBo/DIMMs) that can all fail together and are difficult to test without having a known working setup to put them in.

You mentioned using a PCI diagnostic card, you must be getting power to the mobo otherwise the card would get no power ( maybe PSU is working ). No power to CPU, most recent boards have CPU power cable that has to be plugged in, in addition to the main power connection. Is that plugged in ? ( I left those unplugged many times ). Does the diagnostic card show clock signal and voltages during startup ?

Does the PSU fan spin ? You can also "jump start" the ATX power supply without connecting it to the system to see if itruns, How do I manually turn on an ATX power supply? | techPowerUp

 

[easysurfer]

Yes, it supports up to 8GBs. One problem you have is you've got 3 essential components (PSU/MoBo/DIMMs) that can all fail together and are difficult to test without having a known working setup to put them in.

You mentioned using a PCI diagnostic card, you must be getting power to the mobo otherwise the card would get no power ( maybe PSU is working ). No power to CPU, most recent boards have CPU power cable that has to be plugged in, in addition to the main power connection. Is that plugged in ? ( I left those unplugged many times ). Does the diagnostic card show clock signal and voltages during startup ?

Does the PSU fan spin ? You can also "jump start" the ATX power supply without connecting it to the system to see if itruns, How do I manually turn on an ATX power supply? | techPowerUp

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I see why folks decide to chuck it and just go to a store and pick up a new pc. I haven't gone that route... yet.

I'm starting from scratch sort of today or tomorrow. Using different parts and putting the questionable ones aside.

My main goal is to get my desktop running again, quickly, rather than figuring out what works, what doesn't with the problematic hardware. For example, while doing the "RAM sticks dance" (yes, there was power to the MB and the power connectors connected. The diagnostic card didn't show voltages, just codes), I'd put in one stick on each slot, boot with the bios, see the ram recognized. But then when I add, say the third RAM stick, the bios won't boot. Doing that for three hours

Unfortunately, I don't have a spare machine that I know works or a spare room to do side-by-side testing. My dining area and living room at the moment looks a bit like a computer parts store.

 

[easysurfer]

Home Sweet Home Computer!

My desktop computer is back

Things are easier when I use parts that aren't buggy!

I figured, no guts no glory, so with the new MB and CPU, installed them along with all my components, and after a couple of BIOS settings, my desktop is as good as gold

I reactivated Windows and all that's left is running to the store to get a new CMOS battery and add some cable ties, then.... done at last!

 

[kneehigh]

Congrats!!!

 

[easysurfer]

Congrats!!!

Thanks.

Well, I spoke a tiny bit too soon.

It looks like everything is okay except when I boot up, the bios brings a message of "'Alert! System battery voltage is low
Strike the F1 key to continue, F2 to run the setup utility'

I bought a brand new battery which is good, I've taken out the old battery, and I think I used the MB jumper to reset the cmos, but still the message appears.

Otherwises, thing seem fine.

 

[rbmrtn]

Thanks.

Well, I spoke a tiny bit too soon.

It looks like everything is okay except when I boot up, the bios brings a message of "'Alert! System battery voltage is low
Strike the F1 key to continue, F2 to run the setup utility'

I bought a brand new battery which is good, I've taken out the old battery, and I think I used the MB jumper to reset the cmos, but still the message appears.

Otherwises, thing seem fine.

Go to the maintenance menu in the BIOS, look at the event log. You can mark as read, or clear the log. That should make the message go away.

 

[target2019]

Search the error code, and you'll find a YouTube video that shows how to reset defaults after new battery install.

 

[easysurfer]

Go to the maintenance menu in the BIOS, look at the event log. You can mark as read, or clear the log. That should make the message go away.

I cleared the message on the event log, but all that does is clear the message until the next boot up, then the error happens again.

Search the error code, and you'll find a YouTube video that shows how to reset defaults after new battery install.

I looked at one video where the guy on the BIOS selected to reset to defaults. That worked for that guy, but not for me when I tried that.

Upon searching the internet it looks like this is a pretty common situation with various suggested solutions. Such as plugging into the wall outlet instead of a surge surpressor. Turing the PC on/off 3 cycles. Both didn't work for me.

Another search result said, if it isn't the battery, then probably the battery sensor on the MB is bad. I don't that is just theory or not.

 

[rbmrtn]

So is this the new mobo/cpu/psu you are dealing with ?

One trick I have had success with in the past on Dells is to unplug from the wall, remove the battery, then depress and hold the power button for about 30 seconds. They said this discharges the mobo capacitors. It has cleared a few flaky problems like hung/non working USB ports for me.

I have not had a dell with this particular issue but I see a 10 year long thread in the supports forums for this issue ( different model )

 

[easysurfer]

So is this the new mobo/cpu/psu you are dealing with ?

One trick I have had success with in the past on Dells is to unplug from the wall, remove the battery, then depress and hold the power button for about 30 seconds. They said this discharges the mobo capacitors. It has cleared a few flaky problems like hung/non working USB ports for me.

I have not had a dell with this particular issue but I see a 10 year long thread in the supports forums for this issue ( different model )

Yes. Well, the psu is completely new. The cpu I got from ebay, the mobo is refurbished.

Thanks for that suggestion about the capacitor discharging. I'm going to try now.

UPDATE: I tried the discharging method. Unfortunately that didn't work. I also went ahead and sent an email to where I bought the MBoad from. Since the place sells a lot of boards, perhaps they can point me in the right direction of many of their customers have the same situation. In the meantime, though not perfect, I can live with having to press the PF1 key with each reboot.