Help me choose a driveway paver contractor

[Amethyst]

Contractors here all quote their prices in cash. This is actually the only one I've seen who doesn't charge 3.5% to use a CC, if they accept CC at all.

The paver mfrs offer 8 year warranties on pavers. And C3 said the contract includes purchasing an extra pallet (100) pavers in the same dye lot, as replacements.

But the warranty is on labor, not materials, so wear and tear or even a defective paver might not be covered. The fact that the contractor is pushing the warranty so hard only makes me more suspicious.

Can you offer cash and see if any of them will give you a 1% discount for it? I've gotten that before, or better, and it would beat the 0.5% rebate you'd end up with.

 

[Amethyst]

All of the original-looking driveways (ours dates to 2004) in the development are poured concrete. Ours is cracked, worse than others, and part of it has sunk.

All the multi-million dollar homes along the ocean have pavers - but not concrete; they use travertine$$$! What I like about concrete pavers is the color choice. The travertine, even if we could afford it, seems only come in grays.

The problem with pavers that I foresee (and can see for myself, even in the new one next door) is weeds between the pavers. Sand and seeds blow into the cracks; that's nature. Even though next door's yard service relentlessly power-blows the pavers every week for two hours (how I hate that noise). I'm hoping a very light pressure wash now and then would address this issue.

My driveway pavers have held up with zero issues in my driveway for 12+ years now. One side usually has car, the other almost never, but the driveway is as even as when the pavers were laid. I wouldn't do pavers on a circular driveway, or if I had big huge trucks perhaps.

The only area I have a little dip is in a 3ft wide winding pathway that connects the driveway around to the back patio. But it was an area that was dug up a bit due to a sprinkler repair, and never quite got back to grade. I could probably lift up the pavers, re-sand, and re-lay by myself and get it back to good enough, but it's not bothering me to warrant the effort.

Meanwhile I see many slabs that have cracks, and certainly lots of cracks in stamped concrete, after just a few years. Stamped for a driveway, in S. Fla? Nah, I haven't seen any that hold up.

 

[ivinsfan]

Well what's most important in you mind? Is it price or getting a hassle free quality job? For some reason you said you like 3. If you don't take 3 and have a bad experience you might have buyers remorse.


You know yourself and can probably make a good decision.

 

[1242Vintage]

Well, they all say they compact the base. C2 is the most specific about it, on paper. C1's wife told me "Everybody does it the same way, it's code." I have no idea where to find "code" for paver driveways.

Likely they will get compaction on the base material using a walk-behind plate compactor to achieve 95% compaction effort on the base … which is probably your local code for residential driveway base.

And to test the level of compaction effort requires a nuclear gauge, which I highly doubt any small contractor or your local city/county public works dept is qualified to use. (I used one for Highway construction projects). So it all comes down to Contractor experience as to when proper compaction of base is achieved.

 

[The Cosmic Avenger]

All of the original-looking driveways (ours dates to 2004) in the development are poured concrete. Ours is cracked, worse than others, and part of it has sunk.

All the multi-million dollar homes along the ocean have pavers - but not concrete; they use travertine$$$! What I like about concrete pavers is the color choice. The travertine, even if we could afford it, seems only come in grays.

The problem with pavers that I foresee (and can see for myself, even in the new one next door) is weeds between the pavers. Sand and seeds blow into the cracks; that's nature. Even though next door's yard service relentlessly power-blows the pavers every week for two hours (how I hate that noise). I'm hoping a very light pressure wash now and then would address this issue.

I haven't done it, but I've seen people using a propane torch with a long handle to burn the weeds between cracks. Maybe that's only reasonable for concrete squares with seams every yard or so.

 

[pb4uski]

Since the pavers are the same, I think the most important factor for longevity will be the base.

And I agree polymeric sand would be preferable. For patios, I've heard that some people put down sand but sweep in mortar or concrete mix for the top 1/4" or so and then shower with water and let it set. I would think that would reduce weeds too, along with an occasional dose of Preen.

 

[Amethyst]

How much weight do you give to a BBB accreditation?

C1 has BBB accreditation and A+ rating. They are listed as having been in business for 5 years.

I can't find C2 and C3 on the BBB web site.

 

[zinger1457]

How much weight do you give to a BBB accreditation?

C1 has BBB accreditation and A+ rating. They are listed as having been in business for 5 years.

I can't find C2 and C3 on the BBB web site.

Are they all licensed contractors? Check your local 'registrar of contractors' web site and see what their complaint history is like.

 

[Sunset]

I haven't done it, but I've seen people using a propane torch with a long handle to burn the weeds between cracks. Maybe that's only reasonable for concrete squares with seams every yard or so.

I borrowed one of those propane torches to burn weeds. I probably will not do that again, as it's fairly frightening. It throws off a LOT of heat, around where you are burning.

I set my grass on fire while clearing weeds out of the driveway cracks.
I avoided melting my siding, as I had been warned about that happening to my BIL. My BIL also told me another relative that borrowed it, set fire to a few of his bushes.

Next time I'm going back to using vegetation killer spray.

 

[Sunset]

I would not worry about the bricks breaking/crumbling, that is incredibly rare.

I'd keep a few bricks piled up in the backyard as spares, and they would probably never be used.

The bricks cost ~$3 each at my local store (color match would be a bit difficult).

It's the labor to repair a sunken area that is expensive.

 

[CardsFan]

I am a little late to this party, but I would lean toward contractor #2 for 2 reasons.

1. If I read it right, the entire perimeter will be "fortified" with 8" of concrete. If this means the base material will be contained at the perimeter with concrete, this is a big plus in my opinion. Your biggest issue going forward will be the base slowly eroding away. This should greatly reduce the chances of that happening.

2. Not a biggie, but they thought ahead to put in chaser pipes for future lighting

FWIW, I have a paver patio. We have lived here 10 years, and the patio is at least 20 years old. I have done a few repairs (removing pavers, filling, and resetting) but I suspect the base was not prepared the same as a driveway. And, my base is sand, not RCA, which should allow for better strength and drainage.

I would be hesitant with pavers on a driveway in MO (due to freezing), but not where OP lives.

 

[street]

I am a little late to this party, but I would lean toward contractor #2 for 2 reasons.

1. If I read it right, the entire perimeter will be "fortified" with 8" of concrete. If this means the base material will be contained at the perimeter with concrete, this is a big plus in my opinion. Your biggest issue going forward will be the base slowly eroding away. This should greatly reduce the chances of that happening.

2. Not a biggie, but they thought ahead to put in chaser pipes for future lighting

FWIW, I have a paver patio. We have lived here 10 years, and the patio is at least 20 years old. I have done a few repairs (removing pavers, filling, and resetting) but I suspect the base was not prepared the same as a driveway. And, my base is sand, not RCA, which should allow for better strength and drainage.

I would be hesitant with pavers on a driveway in MO (due to freezing), but not where OP lives.

I agree with with #2 also and for the same reasons.
I also was thinking of my weather and conditions instead of OP climate and locale.

 

[Bongleur]

Consider solid permeable concrete for a full lane, which cars will drive on.
Then on one or both sides, use pavers to make up the full width, for parking & passing by.

Seems that they ought to make pie shaped pavers for doing curves. Its just a mold shape ! Paying for cast-in-place on the curves might be not much more than the waste & labor for cutting squares.

 

[JT90505]

It’s likely that the pavers will shift or settle but it is unlikely that will happen quickly.

We have driveway pavers installed 13 years ago with no shifting or settling.

 

[badatmath]

My neighbor just removed her paver patio and added concrete. . . . I think it depends on the quality of the installer.