HVAC system question (heat pump and air handler)

[escape]

I replaced the 2007 Trane Air Handler and Heat Pump system with a RunTru by Trane last fall when there was a coolant leak. Since then my heating costs have increased and there is no noticeable difference in the cooling ability of the new system.
Is there anything I should do now while the system is still under warranty? Any advice is welcome.
Thank you

[Bamaman]

Ask the installer to come out and check the coolant level--and look over the system.

The new heat pumps should be cheaper to run than the older ones due to better efficiency. But they have to be in optimum running condition. You should have a 10 year warranty on the unit. After a year, most owners would have to pay for the service call/labor.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by escape I replaced the 2007 Trane Air Handler and Heat Pump system with a RunTru by Trane last fall when there was a coolant leak. Since then my heating costs have increased and there is no noticeable difference in the cooling ability of the new system. Is there anything I should do now while the system is still under warranty? Any advice is welcome. Thank you

Call them and tell them your exact story. It is under warranty, they need to support you.

A few things that can cause issues:
- Proper refrigerant pressures
- Proper fan speeds
- Proper heat pump auxiliary heat settings
- Proper settings in general

Here's the thing: new systems have a lot of internal settings that absolutely must be configured properly. These are beyond what you set on a thermostat. There are settings that control the way the fan works, how fast it runs, how long it runs after the unit turns off, and so on. The default settings are usually "safe", but not always efficient. Some installers are lazy or clueless and don't get these right. That can have an impact.

You should check yourself to be sure you had the heat set properly, and not perhaps accidentally on "emergency heat?" Even if you set it correctly, the installer has some settings that can impact the way auxiliary runs.

Good luck!

[ShokWaveRider]

What is the Seer Rating of the new vs the old?

[freedomatlast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by escape I replaced the 2007 Trane Air Handler and Heat Pump system with a RunTru by Trane last fall when there was a coolant leak. Since then my heating costs have increased and there is no noticeable difference in the cooling ability of the new system. Is there anything I should do now while the system is still under warranty? Any advice is welcome. Thank you

First off, proper terminology is a always good thing.....you had a refrigerant leak in the old system, not a coolant leak. Coolant is what's in the radiator in your car.

Next, get a pyrometer with a probe and check the air temperature right after the evaporator coil and right before the evaporator coil with the system running for at least 20 minutes. The air filter housing is a good place to measure the air temperature right before the evaporator. If the difference is less than 15 degrees F, (should optimally be 18 to 20 degrees F or more) the next step is to call the original installer and tell them you want them to hook up gages and check the superheat value to see if it's low on refrigerant. If it's low on refrigerant, they need to find and repair the leak, then properly charge the system until they achieve the superheat value as specified by the manufacturer which is usually somewhere around 10 degrees F.

[iloveyoga]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShokWaveRider What is the Seer Rating of the new vs the old?

As long as your system was properly installed to the size of your dwelling, this should answer your question.

[ShokWaveRider]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iloveyoga As long as your system was properly installed to the size of your dwelling, this should answer your question.

The seer rating is the efficiency rating, (maybe you are confusing Seer with BTUs). If it is better than the original, then it should use less energy. That is why I asked.

[Rianne]

We bought a Trane Energy Efficient HVAC system in 2016. We notice quick cycling a couple of weeks ago. The temp outside was close to the temp indoors ~ 77, 78. It seemed to turn off and on within minutes. Is it just trying to get temp exactly? Our service guy didn't find anything wrong.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rianne We bought a Trane Energy Efficient HVAC system in 2016. We notice quick cycling a couple of weeks ago. The temp outside was close to the temp indoors ~ 77, 78. It seemed to turn off and on within minutes. Is it just trying to get temp exactly? Our service guy didn't find anything wrong.

So thermostats have a deadband, usually of 1 degree +/- the setting. This is to avoid short cycling, as you describe.

When the temp outside is close to inside, you shouldn't see cycling since your temp shouldn't rise or fall fast. There are exceptions: getting a lot of sun in the house, especially near the thermostat, or having an oven or other heat source nearby.

The other thing I could think of would be if your system also controls humidity. High end systems can do this. The system may operate differently than expected if the temperature is in range, but the system is try to control humidity.

[H2ODude]

Depending on where units are, such as what's called a gas pack here with nothing under the house but ducts, you might want to check your ducting; crawl space and attic. Most houses last 40 years or so have flex duct that can become detached at junctions (or chewed up by wayward pests). Depending on where air handlers were installers may not have been anywhere near potential problems. Yeah, timing would be coincidental but it's something that should be checked. I detest working in my low head crawl space but force myself to do a crawl around about once a year or two. Always find some drooping insulation.