Nice deal on a decent 802.11g 54Mb/s router - ~$15 bucks

cute fuzzy bunny

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Dlink DI-524. Reviews are pretty good on it. Nobody seems to have big problems with it.

~15-16 bucks after $25 manufacturer rebate.

Try here:

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=252021 for $14.99 plus tax, free 2 day shipping

or here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833127143 for $15.99 plus tax, 3.99 three day shipping

manufacturers rebate

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/rebate/dlink0130_2.pdf

Note there are a ton of other d-link networking parts on sale via this rebate that are dirt cheap. These are "last years model" being clearanced out. Nice deal if you're still using an old 802.11b router like I am.

Note also that I wouldnt count on getting this and having your wireless speed jump by 4x. At near ranges you might lock at 54Mb/s, but your throughput may be less than that. At far ranges, you'll probably still get just the 2-6Mb/s of real throughput you're getting now.

Also, if you're just pumping this through a 1-3Mb/s internet broadband connection, you wont see any difference at all. Between computers inside your house, should be better.

Note this also employs WPA encryption, which is a lot better than the easily breakable WEP found on older, slower routers.
 
I got one last week and agree it's a very nice little unit. My first experience with a wireless hook-up, but found it easy to get up and running, even from someone technically semi-impaired, such as myself. I dialed down the signal strength to 50% to confine the network to the house and immediate vicinity. At 100% I was able to get a connection at a range of 100 yards. Even with WPA, no sense in taking any unecessary chances.
 
Speaking of tin foil hats (silly rabbit, segues are for kids) I saw someone has an additive to interior house paint that you mix in and paint a few walls with, and it limits or eliminates wireless signals both coming in and going out. I think its copper dust or aluminum dust or some such crud.

If you really, really dont want someone to eavesdrop on your wireless network or telephone.
 
Tips:
http://www.forcefieldwireless.com/tips.html

Your wireless network gives you freedom. No longer do you have to be tied down to the wires of your network. With this freedom you lose the security of a wired network. You run the risk of others intercepting your emails, files, and using your network and internet connection. If you are implementing a wireless network or have had wireless for a long time you need protection.

Remember, security is a personal decision, and we encourage you to use at least some level of security as a deterrent to intrusion. Here are some tips to make your wireless network more secure and efficient.


Enable WEP (Wireless Equivalent Privacy)
Even though WEP uses weak encryption and is breakable, it still provides an effective first measure of defense by encrypting the traffic between your wireless card and access point. Make sure you use the largest WEP key size that your equipment supports. [NOTE: I'D RECOMMEND WPA OVER WEP. WEP CAN BE EASILY BROKEN.]


Change your SSID (Service Set Identifier) to something non-descriptive
You do not want to give out your name, address, or any other useful information to potential hackers. Also, using the default SSID is a bad idea. A good example would be anything non-descriptive like "flower" or "napkin" and a bad example would be "235 Elm St." or "Johnson Family".


Change the default password(s) on your access points
The default passwords of most network equipment are well known and could allow an intruder to gain access to your access point(s).


Disable Broadcast SSID
If your access point supports "closed system" or allows you to "disable broadcast SSID," use this feature. This will make your network essentially invisible to almost all scanning methods.


Update the firmware and drivers on your access point and wireless cards
It is always wise to use the latest firmware and drivers on your access points and wireless cards. Manufacturers commonly fix known issues, security holes, and enable new features with these updates.


Enable MAC based filtering
Using this feature, only your unique wireless cards can communicate with your access point.


Turn off your access points when you are not using them
Why risk being scanned or being broken into if you are not using your wireless network.


Wave point placement and antenna selection
Try to position your access points towards the center of your house or building. This will minimize the signal leak outside of its intended range. If you are using external antennas, selecting the right type of antenna can be helpful in minimizing signal leak.


Disallow router / AP administration via wireless
This feature is usually only present in "Enterprise-grade" AP's, and shuts off the ability to administer your Access Point from wireless clients. But if your router/AP has it, use it.


Don't send sensitive files over Wi-Fi networks unless you know it's secure.
Make sure that your internet connection is secure before you send very sensitive internet communications. On the web most sites that perform sensitive transactions like shopping with a credit card or checking bank account information use Secure Socket Layer (SSL) technology. SSL encrypts the transaction -- creating a secure tunnel between your computer and the web site server. How do you know if your web page transaction is using SSL? One good way is to look at the web page URL. The prefix should start with "https://". The "s" means it's SSL secure. You can also look for a padlock icon or a solid key icon on your web browser. Some popular web-based email services allow users to log-on using a secure SSL connection. If you're sending or receiving email while using a Wi-Fi network, make sure you log-in to your web-based email using SSL.


Use a virtual private network (VPN).
A VPN is an advanced networking feature. It is a technology that creates a tunnel between your computer and the network server. Many corporate networks have VPN's to protect transmissions. If you are accessing your work files or email using a Wi-Fi network, make sure your office network administrator has created a VPN for those transmissions.


These tips cover some things you can do to increase security, but they only constitute a small piece of a true security model. Remember, security is a personal decision, and we encourage you to use at least some level of security as a deterrent to intrusion.
 
CFB - just looking in fatwallet - CUSA has their branded g router at $9.99 after rebates starting tomorrow sku #333628 - specs look good and not last years model - CUSAs eRebate is pretty painless and quick and no mailing... and no 2-3 day wait and freight.

There is always something good about a local purchase and an opportunity to look at the info on the box.

It's just amazing features you can get on the wifi routers these days for such low cost;  I picked up a network print server for $10 last week.  These prices let me feed my computer 'habit' while retired - get great products at retiree-friendly prices... I'm glad I'm not trying to move retail computer equipment anymore!

JohnP
 
Thats a great deal too. Compusa was well known for bad rebates but after they got their pee-pee's whacked last year, I heard they're a lot better.

Wish we had one near here. For some reason, Yuba City CA is devoid of electronics retailers. Walmart and Sears are all we have. :p
 
I just added a wireless print server to my network. Its cool and works most of the time (DW will muck up the cue with receipes) :mad:
 
(Cute Fuzzy Bunny) said:
Compusa was well known for bad rebates but after they got their pee-pee's whacked last year, I heard they're a lot better.

Anything involving pencils, nails, wireless gear antennas :eek:
 
They just didnt pay or "lost" peoples submissions at a rate about 30x the average rate the US mail loses stuff. Or rejected valid claims and made you call in to see if you were in fact paying attention.

I only filed a few with them, without trouble. In fact, the only two companies that ever gave me grief was Seagate and T-mobile, who both paid after I called them up and let them know I had copies of the rebate materials.

Edit: for people who have avoided rebates (and I hate 'em but do 'em), a lot of outfits are really smoothing out the process. For example, Costco rebates print out at the register, you fill out that section of the rebate receipt and send it in. I usually get paid within the month and there's no fooling around. Similarly, most of the office supply stores like staples and some technology outfits like compusa have recently implemented 'e-rebates' where you buy a product, then put in your receipt number, the product, and the rebate program you want to claim against. No cutting out UPC codes, copying receipts, or waiting 12-16 weeks. I've used several of these, and they work really easily.

Edit #2: That compusa router appears to be made by Edimax, and will take their firmware upgrades. One of the things I'm leery of with store brands is they dont always take the time to offer up new firmware and drivers years later. www.edimax.com has the latest software for the units.
 
If you live near a Fry's Electronics they have deal like this all the time. I looked at a bunch of wifi routers, PC cards, USB wireless units yeaterday. As great as the internet is its nice sometimes to read boxes and talk to the knowledgeble folks (the customers, not the sales staff) about different models.
 
I love fry's, unless i have to return something.

Nearest one to me is about an hour and a half round trip drive. Gabe and I go there once a month for "boys geek day out".
 
Another pretty sweet deal from compusa if you can stomach a $50 rebate...

US Robotics MAX G router with a USB print server, $19.99 after $50 rebate.
http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?ref=performics&product_code=331849&pfp=cat3

Basically your printers USB connection goes to this, and you configure the printer support on your pc to use it as a network printer. SOME bidirectional printers, most all-in-one (fax/scan/print) printer and a lot of older printers may not work or function fully with this, but your basic modern ink jets or lasers from major manufacturers should work fine with it.

Nice for people who have non-network capable printers, laptops or multiple pc's that all want to print to the same printer.

Pretty well regarded router.
 
If you're going to buy a new wireless router, get one of that supports MIMO. Faster, better, stronger. Even if you don't have a MIMO card.

BTW, I love my new wired house. 100Mbps from my file server to the media center means that I can finally watch on TV those 100 or so DVD's I've ripped. I'm ready for some serious couch potato time....
 
Unfortunately cheapest one of those is ~$65 and we arent all rich guys who can buy stuff before we need it ;)

I'll wait 2-3 years until my next laptop has it, then buy the router for that for eleven bucks after rebate ;)

I solved the media center problem by using a $29 external firewire case with a $25 160GB drive in it. Rip the dvd's to the external drive on the big fast computer, then put it on the media center pc to play them on the projector.

Just used 14Mb/s powerline ethernet adapters for the basic connectivity.

I'm so retro.
 
Staples has got a 200GB Maxtor 3.5 Internal drive for $40 after an easy rebate. I think this sale lasts till Feb. 25th. My local Staples ran out of the drives at 11am on Sunday, but I guess there are still a few around at different staples.

I need to get a USB/Fireware enclosure for this drive. A lot of people seem to have problems with these, any recommendations? According to a few posts on FatWallet, you want to get one with the Cypress chipset?? No one says why this is preferred though?
 
There were some problems with firewire compatibility with some chip sets, but I think those have mostly been worked out. The oxford chip set was highly lauded for firewire performance and compatibility. I think the problem actually had more to do with Windows than the chip sets...something about windows progressively increasing the size of the transfers until the drive took so long to respond to them that it triggered a time out. If you have a choice, you'll usually get better throughput and lower CPU utilization going with firewire than USB 2.0. Not *always* true, but usually.

Check the model number of the maxtor drive and make sure nobody is having trouble with it. Some model maxtor drives dont work in tivo's or in external cases. Those were getting clearanced out by the office supply stores.
 
WanderALot said:
Staples has got a 200GB Maxtor 3.5 Internal drive for $40 after an easy rebate.

BTW, CompUsa has a 200GB Seagate 3.5 for $29 after three (one easy, two not-so-easy) rebates this week. I picked one up and put it in a Syba USB 2.0 external enclosure - I've had such good luck with this enclosure that I now have five of them scattered around the office:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817186101

SC
 
I like the seagates a lot. But the manufacturers rebates are iffy. They made me call them up a couple of times and read the riot act. But they did eventually pay. Just keep your paperwork.
 
Got it in the mail today (the dlink). Tiny little lightweight thing. I'm going to have to tape it to the shelf...the weight of the network cables keeps pulling it off onto the floor. Nice signal quality, gave me a 45Mb/s lock right off the bat at a decent distance.

Setup software both on the included cd and the setup wizard in the router itself were written by idiots.

I ended up configuring it by hand, which is ok with me.

If I didnt have this sitting behind another router, the setup disk probably would have worked.

If I didnt have a 32" monitor with a funny resolution, the web based setup might not have hidden half the buttons, including "Next->".
 
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