Help, we have propane fireplace logs. Last couple of times I used it I turned it on and in about 5 min. it just shuts its self off. The pilot light is still on. I can then flip the switch to relight it, and it will light back up. But then again it just shuts off in a few min.Any ideas here what I might try?
Propane fireplace problem
- Thread starter Venturer
- Start date
Mark1
Full time employment: Posting here.
Kind of sounds like a valve in the fuel line is failing closed.
Dash man
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Sounds like you need a good cleaning. Little critters can get inside the gas tubes in the off season and reduce the gas flow. We get our gas fireplace serviced every couple of years.
The pilot light stays on and the flame is good on the tubes until it quits . I always take all the logs off and vacuum the tubes out as well as brush them. While its burning it has a good blue flame untill it goes out. The thing that gets me is it will light right back up again.
CRLLS
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
How does the flame look when it is about to shut down? Check for the fresh air path. We had a natural gas fireplace that did not have enough draw of fresh air. After half an hour, the flame would slowly turn bluer and then dwindle out as it was starved of oxygen.
Sunset
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OP do you have a CO2 detector nearby ? Maybe the fireplace is detecting a problem and shutting off, but if you don't have another detector you won't get any warnings.
OldShooter
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First thing I would do is to change out the thermocouple. When I have done it it was easy and the thermocouples were standardized and cheap. YMMV of course.
CRLLS
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Typically, if the pilot light is still on, the thermocouple is good. When the thermocouple goes out, the pilot light goes out as a result. I have had many pilot lights go out over the years, never had a gas valve not open or close if the pilot light is still on. Thermocouples are cheap and easy to swap out. I always have one or two spares ready for the inevitable failure.
In an enclosed fireplace like ours, there is an overtemperature switch mounted somewhere on the outside of the firebox. They are bimetallic switches than can totally fail or become overly sensitive.
In an enclosed fireplace like ours, there is an overtemperature switch mounted somewhere on the outside of the firebox. They are bimetallic switches than can totally fail or become overly sensitive.
Ok folks, I went to the manufacturers site and started reading. I found this to be helpful.
Symptoms: a) Unable or difficult to establish the pilot light; or
b) Burner(s) and/or pilot shuts down after a few minutes of operation.
Probable Cause: The ODS Pilot has two small holes that draw in air to mix with the gas to create a stable pilot flame. Unfortunately, over time lint and dust in the air accumulate inside these holes, which disrupts the proper operation of the pilot flame.
Action to Take: 1) Gather tools needed:
a) Vacuum cleaner with brush attachment
b) A can of compressed air with a tube (the type that is used to clean computer keyboards) or a drinking straw.
2) Vacuum up all lint, dust & debris from logs, grate, burner(s), burner air intake and air shutter regions (underneath burner, where air gets drawn in), and pilot area. View photo of burners.
3) Using the compressed air or a straw, blow out:
a) Burner ports (where the main flame comes from);
b) Burner air intake and air shutter regions (end of burner(s) where gas and air mix);
c) Around the valve knob (the one you depress to light the pilot); and
d) MOST IMPORTANTLY, the air intake holes of the ODS Pilot Assembly. These small air intake holes are between 1/16" and 1/8" in diameter and are located about 2” from the end of the pilot from where the pilot flame originates. Use the compressed air or straw to blow out these holes. Repeat a couple of times.
THe symptoms of my fireplace were like B in this instance, so I followed the suggestions and so far last evening after taking all the logs off --then reassembling it worked! I had already cleaned the burners but I hadn't cleaned out the pilot burner holes. Years ago we had a natural gas water heater that We did have to replace the thermo coupler because the pilot would not stay lit, so I didn't think that was my problem. Any way thanks to all for the suggestions and just wanted to let ya'll know it is fixed now. I hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas/ New Years season!
Symptoms: a) Unable or difficult to establish the pilot light; or
b) Burner(s) and/or pilot shuts down after a few minutes of operation.
Probable Cause: The ODS Pilot has two small holes that draw in air to mix with the gas to create a stable pilot flame. Unfortunately, over time lint and dust in the air accumulate inside these holes, which disrupts the proper operation of the pilot flame.
Action to Take: 1) Gather tools needed:
a) Vacuum cleaner with brush attachment
b) A can of compressed air with a tube (the type that is used to clean computer keyboards) or a drinking straw.
2) Vacuum up all lint, dust & debris from logs, grate, burner(s), burner air intake and air shutter regions (underneath burner, where air gets drawn in), and pilot area. View photo of burners.
3) Using the compressed air or a straw, blow out:
a) Burner ports (where the main flame comes from);
b) Burner air intake and air shutter regions (end of burner(s) where gas and air mix);
c) Around the valve knob (the one you depress to light the pilot); and
d) MOST IMPORTANTLY, the air intake holes of the ODS Pilot Assembly. These small air intake holes are between 1/16" and 1/8" in diameter and are located about 2” from the end of the pilot from where the pilot flame originates. Use the compressed air or straw to blow out these holes. Repeat a couple of times.
THe symptoms of my fireplace were like B in this instance, so I followed the suggestions and so far last evening after taking all the logs off --then reassembling it worked! I had already cleaned the burners but I hadn't cleaned out the pilot burner holes. Years ago we had a natural gas water heater that We did have to replace the thermo coupler because the pilot would not stay lit, so I didn't think that was my problem. Any way thanks to all for the suggestions and just wanted to let ya'll know it is fixed now. I hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas/ New Years season!
CRLLS
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Congratulations on getting the problem fixed. Stay warm.
Great that you got if fixed. I have had to replace the pilot assembly on my gas fireplaces (includes the thermocouple) a half dozen times on my two gas log fireplaces. I actually keep a spare assembly for just such an occasion. About a $25 part.
Sunset
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Great it's fixed.
Seems similar to the propane BBQ, where they say spider webs can block the air mix opening in the tube.
Seems similar to the propane BBQ, where they say spider webs can block the air mix opening in the tube.
Thanks for this,^^^^^^^ I may just do this next time I go up to Chattanooga where the dealer for this brand is located.
This was the problem with our natural gas fireplace. I should have vacuumed/cleaned it myself, but instead had it serviced. At least I supported the local economy.
ERD50
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
I guess I'm lucky. The gas fireplace in the home we moved into is the old school "turn on the gas and light it with a match" style.
No thermocouples, sensors, or igniters to worry about. And it's not really a chore to light it.
-ERD50
No thermocouples, sensors, or igniters to worry about. And it's not really a chore to light it.
-ERD50
CRLLS
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Venturer, I think you jinxed me. Last night, when the weather dropped below zero, I fired up the fireplace. It ran for about 10 minutes and shut down. After recalling this thread, this morning I removed the glass cleaned the pilot light/thermocouple. It was a lousy, weak yellow last night. After a quick cleaning it is now a strong blue flame. I am comfy warm right now thanks to your recent post.
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