radiator leak

[ronin]

I found a horizontal hairline crack about 2-3" long in the top of my radiator and can see it leaking very slightly. This is on a '93 Toyota Landcruiser. Looking at factory parts, it runs about $520 for a new one. I'm wondering about the possibility of cleaning it up really well and applying an epoxy patch to the spot. It is easily accessible and wouldn't require any disassembly. The epoxy hardens to cement and would be stronger than the plastic assembly it would be bonded to. The only thing I wonder is if the heat and pressure would mess it up. What do you think? I can't see it hurting anything for a least a short test period. Can always take it in for replacement if it doesn't hold. Wouldn't mind saving several hundred $$.

 

[travelover]

If it is plastic, I would try some JB Weld. If it is brass, I'd solder it.

It might help to use some mesh like window screen to reinforce the patch.

 

[Telly]

If it were me, I would replace it myself with a decent after market radiator. You can look it up at rockauto.com to get some ideas, their e-catalog is fast and has additional info like measurements available on many items. A good auto parts place in your area should have choices too.

I tried JB weld on a plastic tanked radiator once. I did all sorts of prep work to really try to make sure it would hold. Within a week of hot driving, it let go. So with plastic, I always replace now. Don't want to cook an engine.

 

[ERD50]

If it is plastic, I would try some JB Weld. If it is brass, I'd solder it.

It might help to use some mesh like window screen to reinforce the patch.

I just did this exact thing. It's our old van that I plan on selling in a few months, once another family car becomes available. So I figured it was worth a shot at holding it together for a while. It been holding for a few weeks now, so we will see. I expect it will be fine.

The crack was on a flat spot at the top. It's a plastic 'tank' part of the radiator. Some sites suggested taking a nylon tie-wrap, and melting/welding it into the crack with a soldering iron. My repair looked pretty good, but didn't hold up to pressure.

Stories of success with JB_Weld were varied, but since this was a flat spot, I was able to put some heavy window-screen like material on it (some scrap of perforated metal that was in my scrap bin - I'm a pack-rat), and then another flat piece of sheet metal that I cut to fit over that.

Cleaned it all with acetone, scratched out the crack a little in an attempt to get some bonding there, sanded to roughen it up, and acetone clean again. Got a thick layer of the JB-Weld in there, pushed the perf metal into that with the JB squeezing through, layered the metal plate over that. One edge of the metal plate squeezed right under some clips that held the tank to the core, so it had some mechanical backing also. Smoothed the JB around the edges.

A new radiator on-line was maybe $200? And I don't think it is too hard to replace (I replaced one on our older van, and that was simple), but I figured this was worth a shot, will replace it if needed.

I'll disclose the repair if I sell it, may just donate it (I guess you don't get much now, and I'm in a low bracket anyhow). If you plan on keeping it a while, I'd figure that if the plastic cracked in one spot, it's probably weak all over and it will go somewhere else. I just use this for occasional short trips until I sell it, so the risk is OK for me.

-ERD50

 

[calmloki]

BMW crowd has lots of experience with failed plastic cooling parts. The thought is that when components of cars were made to be "greener" and with more recyclable components in the early 90s there was a spate of issues. Newer plastic/antifreeze formulations are more compatible and longer lived. maybe. What is the engine worth if you cook it? I'm cheap, but cooling system fixes I've attempted have been short lived.

 

[FreeAtLast]

I think there are repair shops out there that fix radiators. They would probably weld the crack.

 

[frank]

in my experience repairs on radiators by amateurs are seldom long lived. call 1-800-radiator for a price and install it yourself. they have a lifetime warranty and are reasonably priced.

 

[ronin]

I used the JB epoxy, cleaned it up, sanded it good and cleaned again with thinner. The crack is horizontal but on the side rather than the top, so the stuff kind of migrated down before it set up, had to move it around a bit with my applicator. Seems to have bonded and no leaks so far, but from you guys' experience, I better keep an eye on it and probably better replace the radiator. I suspect that the plastic is fatigued all over and it's a matter of time before it cracks again. Need the waves to back off for a few days so I can afford the down time with no surfmobile.

 

[Ed_The_Gypsy]

Plastics do not hold up well above 180°F. Some better than others, but do not rely on it. Some engineered plastics will take higher temps for extended times but you won't be able to apply them as a patch.

Sorry.

 

[Nords]

Need the waves to back off for a few days so I can afford the down time with no surfmobile.

Gotta have priorities!

 

[ronin]

I looked at the temp ratings for a few different ones, ranging from a low of 200 to the JB Weld listed at 600. Don't know what those #s are really worth as I guess they could say anything on the package.

Gotta have priorities!

I plowed the savings back into a new board order. My friends are ripping the local beach break with it.

the flare

 

[check6]

If it were me, I would replace it myself with a decent after market radiator. You can look it up at rockauto.com to get some ideas, their e-catalog is fast and has additional info like measurements available on many items. A good auto parts place in your area should have choices too.

I have a '92 Toyota PU that I replaced the radiator thru a Toyota dealership last year. They offered me a choice and installed a radiator from a local supplier at a much lower price.

 

[Nords]

I plowed the savings back into a new board order. My friends are ripping the local beach break with it.
the flare

Nice. Looks a lot like my daughter's custom 7'9", and it's a beauty.

I'm rediscovering the joys of a 10'0" that will get up in almost anything that I bother to paddle into...

 

[vvsonikvv]

I would replace the radiator with an aftermarket part. the oem part is still plastic and would still break after a while. An aluminum aftermarket radiator shouldn't cost more than $250, more likely $150-200? Maybe more since it's a bigger "truck." They are usually pretty easy to replace yourself. Unhook the hoses, unscrew the bolts holding the radiator, replace radiator, re-hook the hoses. You'll have to drain the coolant and put new coolant back in and bleed it.

You can get a pressure tester for free at advanced auto (you borrow it with $ deposit but get it back when you return it). If it's not worth your time or too technical, I bet most local mechanics would charge 1 to 1.5 hrs to replace ($95/hr?)

When my radiator started leaking, I started to think about "repairing it" but the risk wasn't worth it. Make sure the drain plug on the radiator isn't on too tight, or else you'll crack the rubber gasket prematurely and it'll start leaking (happened to me. simple fix with a new rubber gasket though).

One thing against the stuff you pour in to "seal up radiator leaks"... what if some of that doesn't stick to the radiator and flows through the engine and decides to stick inside the engine or heater core somewhere... that probably wouldn't be a good idea.