Recommendations for new kitchen cabinets.

[Brat]

You really need to look at what the fabricator is offering. When you write up an order make sure that you specify what you want.

[Boho]

The little square door in the blind corner is fake. The long one under it is functional. I'm going to renovate the kitchen slightly (without getting new cabinets). Should the little square be made into a functional draw? The useable draw space would be about 4" wide by 5" high.

[Katsmeow]

Definitely get drawers for most of your lower cabs. I had that at my old house and sure miss it in this house. Also make sure the shelves are adjustable.

That said, I've always found it is less expensive to have someone local build the cabinets on their site and then install them at your house. We gutted our master bath and we were putting in a lot of cabs in the master bath (we had an armoire along with regular cabs) and that is how we did it.

[levindb]

Boho,

The reason that the top drawer is fake is that once you install the hardware, the usable drawer space would be very small. You could use it for kabob sticks.

Another approach would be to have a slide out shelf for the drawer face and the cabinet face combined. You would load things from the side.

https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-448...4864315&sr=8-8

[meleana]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobbieB We used J&K Cabinets from China. All solid wood or plywood, no MDF, particle or strand. Good "no bang" soft close hardware too. Excellent value!

The builder put those on our new house, but no way do they compare with the Waypoint cabinets we had installed in our former home when we remodeled the kitchen several years ago.

[Ronstar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho The little square door in the blind corner is fake. The long one under it is functional. I'm going to renovate the kitchen slightly (without getting new cabinets). Should the little square be made into a functional draw? The useable draw space would be about 4" wide by 5" high.

If you’re keeping the cabinet carcasses as is, I would leave the square door as fake.

It would take quite a bit of work to turn it into a drawer. First pry the front off without damaging it. Then building a drawer box. Then modifying the interior of the cabinet somewhat to accept drawer slides. Then install drawer slides.

All of this for a 4”x5” drawer isn’t worth it IMO

[pb4uski]

+1 unless you are really desparate for additional drawer space... could use it for utensils I guess but probably not worth the cost and effort.

[JP.mpls]

My countertops in my townhome are shot.
I was reluctant to put new countertops on 35 year old cabinets.
My buddy is doing a home remodel, and researched a bunch of suppliers. He ended up buying Cabinets To Go cabinets.
You have to assemble and install them yourself. No particle board material, nice hardware.
I just ordered some for my kitchen. Will report back how this goes. Hopefully well.
JP

[Boho]

This dual outlet that the refrigerator uses should changed to a single outlet, right? Because the dual outlet can be used for a countertop appliance so I'd need a GFCI which can mess with the fridge. There's another dual outlet for the range that I'll change to a GFCI. They're both within 6 feet of the sink. I guess I'd cap off all wires currently going to the second outlet of the dual outlet and replace it with a single.

(the range is gas and the outlet on that end of the counter is just for the clock)

[skyking1]

I second what Pb4ski said in the first reply. Go for drawers down low. I built all our cabinets in both baths, the kitchen, laundry, and a built in murphy bed in the guest room from scratch and purchased the doors and drawer faces from a custom shop, and went the low drawer route.
I recommend Blum hinges and drawer hardware.
There are inexpensive battery powered moisture alarms online. I have one in the water heater pan and under each sink, and they work great. I put vinyl flooring under the sink that is wrapped up the sides in one piece, and caulked in the 4 corners. Takes a little time but really protects your investments. The moisture alarm wire lays on there and any water at all triggers it.

[Ronstar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho This dual outlet that the refrigerator uses should changed to a single outlet, right? Because the dual outlet can be used for a countertop appliance so I'd need a GFCI which can mess with the fridge.

I don't think that I would change it to a single outlet. It doesn't hurt to leave it as a double. And it doesn't hurt to have a fridge on a GFCI. My garage fridge has been on a GFCI for years with no problems.

Quote:

There's another dual outlet for the range that I'll change to a GFCI. They're both within 6 feet of the sink. I guess I'd cap off all wires currently going to the second outlet of the dual outlet and replace it with a single.(the range is gas and the outlet on that end of the counter is just for the clock)

Again I see no harm in leaving it as a dual outlet.

If both receptacles (near fridge and near range) are on the same circuit, I would replace the breaker for that circuit with a GFCI breaker instead of installing 2 GFCI receptacles.

[Boho]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronstar Again I see no harm in leaving it as a dual outlet

Yes, the dual outlet by the range will stay dual.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronstar If both receptacles (near fridge and near range) are on the same circuit, I would replace the breaker for that circuit with a GFCI breaker instead of installing 2 GFCI receptacles.

It's a fuse box in a condo/co-op and that's probably not an option. At a board meeting several years ago they said the electricity is "OK for now." The building is over 50 years old now. Hopefully they'll swap the fuse box for breakers eventually.

I did some testing last night. The fridge is on the same circuit as an outlet that's opposite and within 6 feet of the sink, and that outlet is damaged and needs replacement. If it comes after the fridge outlet on the circuit, I'll make it a GFCI outlet. If not, IDK yet. Most people seem to be afraid of putting a fridge on a GFCI outlet but maybe I'll figure out some alert system so I don't risk food poisoning if something goes wrong. I'll test its position on the circuit soon. The counter outlet by the range is on a different circuit from the fridge and the closest outlet to the sink. I'll replace that one with a GFCI outlet.

[Qs Laptop]

I'll echo what others have said. Get plywood for the floor under the sink cabinet. Large drawers instead of cabinets with drawers for base cabinets. Soft-close drawers and soft-close doors. Under cabinet lighting is a MUST.

Also consider a Lazy Susan for corner cabinet installations--the amount of stuff you can put on them is amazing and the convenience of spinning the wheel to access rather than peering around stuff to see the stuff in the back corner is awesome. Make sure the wheels and construction of the Lazy Susan is sturdy.

We got the built-in wood sliding drawer with compartments for the silverware drawer. This allows for two levels of silverware storage.

We did not get the pull out wastebasket drawer and kind of regret it now, although it does take a lot of space that could otherwise be used as storage.

[pb4uski]

We bought the lazy susans for our corner cabinets at Bed, Bath and Beyond... they make those corner cabinets hugely more functional.

They are so handy that ometimes I'm tempted to get them or even the regular kitchen cabinets.

[Out-to-Lunch]

I highly recommend a pie-cut SuperSusan. This sits on shelves, rather than supported by a pole:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wu6Xy7GIbM

[Mykle57]

My next kitchen remodel will include far fewer cabinets. I'm finding stuff that hasn't been used in years.
They look great and appear super functional, but, seem to collect a lot of stuff I really don't want any more.

[Music Lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pb4uski We bought the lazy susans for our corner cabinets at Bed, Bath and Beyond... they make those corner cabinets hugely more functional. They are so handy that ometimes I'm tempted to get them or even the regular kitchen cabinets.

They're pretty useful in a regular 90 corner. I have a corner cabinet that's 45 degrees and can get by without one, although I'm sure that a Lazy Susan would work pretty well in it:

corner.jpg

[Boho]

After trying to minimize overspray while disinfecting the cabinets that the exterminator opened, I'd like to have hinges that let you lift the door up to remove it without unscrewing anything. Then I can take them all outside to spray them. Any quick release mechanism would work too. Is there something like that?

[Out-to-Lunch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho After trying to minimize overspray while disinfecting the cabinets that the exterminator opened, I'd like to have hinges that let you lift the door up to remove it without unscrewing anything. Then I can take them all outside to spray them. Any quick release mechanism would work too. Is there something like that?

Euro hinges already are quick release: https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/...t-euro-hinges/

[Boho]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Out-to-Lunch Euro hinges already are quick release: https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/...t-euro-hinges/

I saw a video to give me a quick idea of how they work. I don't even want to remove two screws per door if there's a different hinge that makes it even easier. Also, the tilt adjustment screw seems like it wouldn't be secure and I'd have to adjust the angle of the doors periodically.