Seeking Painting Equipment Recommendations (Long)

[Amethyst]

As mentioned in another thread, we'll be painting our home's interior this summer. All our painting supplies were left behind when we moved, so we need to put together a suite of quality, compatible painting tools and equipment that won't break the bank. For example, we want roller cages, roller covers, and extension poles to work together, even if they are not all the same maker.

The large number of DIY painter advice sites is making choice a little difficult, so I thought I'd turn to some of the most confident and detail-minded DIYers I know: the ER gang.

Besides the dark-brown and dark-blue rooms, the rest of the house has white walls, rather marked up and full of picture hanging holes. No major drywall damage that we've observed, although sometimes the painting process causes you to find defects you did not see before, especially given 10-foot ceilings.

We probably won't paint the ceilings.

We plan to paint the whole interior a light cream color, using Sherwin-Williams primer (for the dark colors) and flat wall paint.

Here is what we think our "suite" should contain:

1. Extension poles: 2-4', 4-8'

2. Roller cages that will fit the extension poles

3. Roller covers, suitable for flat or eggshell paint on previously painted drywall. Roller covers obviously must be compatible with 2 and 3.

4. Roller pans or similar system for transporting paint onto the roller and around the rooms

5. Drop cloths

6. Cutting-in tools

7. Spackle and drywall compound

8. Sand paper

9. Painter's tape

Stepladder: We have a sturdy 8-foot aluminum step ladder, which lacks a painter's platform or hangers for paint buckets. Not sure we want to spend for a specialized painter's ladder.

Have I missed anything essential? We're open to new ideas, with one exception: No paint sprayers. No disrespect to those who love sprayers; we just don't want to use our home as "practice."

Thanks!

Amethyst

 

[Jerry1]

Not a big painter but this is one tool I love.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-Easy-Reach-5-ft-Adjustable-Extension-Pole-06570L/100534761

It adjusts so easily and smoothly it makes it very useful. You can easily do a 8 foot ceiling and as you dip for more paint, you can lower it to make rolling it easier.

I would also recommend a bucket (instead of a roller pan) and a screen to remove some of the paint. Like this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Premier-...MI4uO6spyr4gIVCtvACh2noQ7bEAQYASABEgIp9PD_BwE

I know they’re expensive, but get good cloth drop cloths. Plastic is garbage. Get enough drop cloths so you can cover the entire area. You don’t want to move them as your painting.

Get some of these furniture sliders too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...iders-for-Soft-Floors-8-Pack-822751/308761105

These are nice too. Better than a ladder in many cases.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Werner-1-71-ft-x-1-ft-x-20-56-in-225-lbs-Aluminum-Work-Platform/999946108

 

[Sunset]

If you have a Menard's near you, they often have sales (full rebate) on painting equipment. And their prices are good regardless.

There is a plastic lid you can put on a 1 gallon paint can, the lid becomes a pour spout with a threaded cap, to seal the can, later you can take it off , wash it and use it on another can. Home Depot has those.

 

[Bamaman]

I get my drop cloths at Harbor Freight. As they say, 2/3 of painting is in the preparation.

I'm astonished at how good the coverage is for the new generation paints. My house had dark brown as the dominant color (by the original owner), and I covered it in one coat with a grey. My downstairs bedroom and bath were red, and I covered it in one coat with a medium blue.

Inside house painting is something just about anyone can do. I have 10' to 15' ceilings upstairs, and it does take a special big ladder to cut in the ceilings that high. You just have to open that can and get at it. No big deal.

All my trim and doors are gloss white in color, and oil base paint is just a little difficult to deal with. Baseboards and crown molding does look so much better when repainted in oil paint.

 

[samclem]

Any stairs/stairwells? If so, you may need a special ladder or scaffolding to reach every bit--you can't cut in using a brush on the end of a 12 foot pole.

Some people really like pan liners to reduce the mess. I'm one of those people. Whether or not I'm changing colors frequently, it's great to eventually throw the thing out rather than trying to clean the pan.

Wide aluminum foil. It's great to cover a roller pan when you need to take a break, and for wrapping a roller for a few hours or even overnight for use the next day.

I'm a "belt and suspenders'" guy regarding floor coverings. I cover the room pretty well with cheap, thin plastic first, then use a good approx 3' wide by 15' long fabric dropcloth and move it around as I go wall to wall. The plastic gets thrown out after one use.

You'll probably need a lot of rags, too.

Unless you buy paint that is truly odor-free, bring or buy a box fan to put in a window as an exhaust fan.

Cheap disposable blue nitrile gloves are worth having, Harbor Freight is the cheapest place to get them. They save a lot of hand washing.

I guess some people like those long straight paint shields for prying any carpet slightly away from the wall and protecting it while you brush the baseboard. I've never been able to use them, and the carpet always rebounds against the wet paint an sticks there. Maybe it allows a quick re-paint of a rental house, but for a house I'll be living in, I use painter's tape to do this (and remove it at just the right time--after the paint has well skinned over, but before it is cured enough to tear off as a sheet when you remove the tape).


If your hands are steady and you are willing to take your time, get some good brushes for the cutting in and do less taping (including window dividers, trim, etc). You may find it can look just as good and go considerably faster.

 

[joeea]

Besides the dark-brown and dark-blue rooms, the rest of the house has white walls, rather marked up and full of picture hanging holes. No major drywall damage that we've observed, although sometimes the painting process causes you to find defects you did not see before, especially given 10-foot ceilings.

We probably won't paint the ceilings.

If I were painting all the walls, I'd paint the ceilings, too. Older ceilings won't look as good up against fresh new walls.

We plan to paint the whole interior a light cream color, using Sherwin-Williams primer (for the dark colors) and flat wall paint.

Are you sure you need primer?

9. Painter's tape

Are you painting the trim?

Whenever I paint trim I don't use tape.

 

[Amethyst]

Any recommendations for brand of roller cage/roller cover/roller extension poles?

 

[CardsFan]

From Jerry 1:

I would also recommend a bucket (instead of a roller pan) and a screen to remove some of the paint. Like this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Premier-...MI4uO6spyr4gIVCtvACh2noQ7bEAQYASABEgIp9PD_BwE

I have never done this, but I have several professional painter buddies, and this is all they use for a large area. Really makes sense.

A quick tip you may already know: If quitting for the day, wrap the roller in plastic wrap. No need to clean it and fine for the next day.

 

[omni550]

Be sure to get a 5-in-1 tool

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6...omXCQKgdx21REyFGygoaArMmEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here's how to use it to scrape (and save) paint:

------------

I'd go with high-quality rollers and cages (as they will make or break your paint job)...something like Sherwin-Williams.

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You'll also need a good quality brush -- for cutting-in, trim, whatever....a 3" angle brush (china bristle used to be excellent) like the professionals use (from Sherwin-Williams or another professionals' paint store), spend ~$15-20.

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An empty paint can ~$3

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This guy has a 40-min video on how to prep and paint walls like a pro....

(He teaches you how to use drywall mud in place of spackle to save time through no sanding and no priming, washing the sleeves before painting, loading the inside of the brush with paint so it reduces or eliminates the need for taping, etc.)

omni

 

[Sunset]

I've used the 2.5 inch angle brush from Menards many times, and even some from dollar store and they all worked fine. The cost was $1.00 -> $3.00 ea.

I see Samclem beat me to the nitrile gloves (I also use them for oil changes) 100 to a box for about $6.00 on a sale.

I did the tape on the carpet pressing down the carpet and shoving the tape into the crack , so I basically taped the carpet. Worked like a charm

 

[donheff]

...
-------------

This guy has a 40-min video on how to prep and paint walls like a pro....

(He teaches you how to use drywall mud in place of spackle to save time through no sanding and no priming, washing the sleeves before painting, loading the inside of the brush with paint so it reduces or eliminates the need for taping, etc.)

omni

That video is excellent. I wish I had seen it years ago.

 

[Ronstar]

I agree with all of the above advice, especially using the paint bucket and grate instead of a roller pan. And you’ll probably be using 5 gallon paint cans.

I would also paint the ceiling the same paint as the walls.

And get a good angle brush that is made for latex paint to cut in at the trim.

And the cloth drop cloths, gloves as mentioned

 

[Jerry1]

Note on using the bucket and the grate. You get a separate bucket and you don’t fill it. You only put in a few inches. Maybe 1/2 gallon. The benefit in the bucket is the ability to move it around and not end up stepping in your roller pan.

As was mentioned, these are nice too:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-Pour-and-Store-Gallon-Paint-Can-Lid-2007061/202903561

They allow you to pour in more paint without a lot of mess. They are silicone and clean up real easy.

 

[Koogie]

Everything I would have said has already been said.

If you are doing the doors/trim, I have been using "pearl" trim paint recently and I really like the finish.

Otherwise, I have bought Purdy brushes / roller covers in the past when they have been on sale and found them excellent. Maybe not excellent enough to pay full price but YMMV..

Once I got a brush comb with a Purdy combo set. It has long fine steel teeth. Worked great at keeping the brush bristles combed and near new.

 

[sengsational]

If you have large, high walls, it's sometimes hard to maintain a wet line while rolling because of the time between going back to the tray/bucket. I've successfully used this attached contraption (Wagner paint mate). It's a hollow tube with a plunger that stores your paint. Not worth it for small jobs because cleaning it is a pain, but you can really get good results with it, and it's quick since you don't need to load the roller. The paints now seem to dry too quickly, so the ability to eliminate pauses can make for fewer roller marks.


Another tip I've heard about but never tried is rather than washing brushes, if you're painting the next day, wrap in Saran wrap and stick the brush in the freezer.

 

[ivinsfan]

I agree you should do the ceiling you'll be mad if after you are done, the ceiling look stale.

I also highly recommend buying a six foot utility scaffold with locking wheels. Menard's, Home Depot should have them for around 150-200 bucks. I can't tell you how much easier it makes painting ceilings and upper areas. Once you have painted with a scaffold you will never go back to a ladder...

Believe me you do want to pay for the scaffold it works for tricky lightbulbs and the kind of things where you don't want to worry about falling or losing your balance. Also keeps your calves and the balls of feet from getting sore.

 

[ivinsfan]

I've used the 2.5 inch angle brush from Menards many times, and even some from dollar store and they all worked fine. The cost was $1.00 -> $3.00 ea.

I see Samclem beat me to the nitrile gloves (I also use them for oil changes) 100 to a box for about $6.00 on a sale.

I did the tape on the carpet pressing down the carpet and shoving the tape into the crack , so I basically taped the carpet. Worked like a charm

I've got a box full of Menards free brushes (well you have to pay sales tax). You know the best part bar none is... I throw them away after using them....priceless.

 

[The Cosmic Avenger]

If I were painting all the walls, I'd paint the ceilings, too. Older ceilings won't look as good up against fresh new walls.

That reminds me, I'd add goggles to your list if you don't already have a couple of pairs. I was using a roller to paint a vaulted ceiling, and I got too vertical and got paint spatter in my eyes. Ouch! I still remember that clear as day 20 years later.

 

[Amethyst]

Good idea. We wear glasses, and hate stopping to clean off the paint.

That reminds me, I'd add goggles to your list if you don't already have a couple of pairs. I was using a roller to paint a vaulted ceiling, and I got too vertical and got paint spatter in my eyes. Ouch! I still remember that clear as day 20 years later.

 

[zinger1457]

If using a lot of the same paint I would go with 5 gal buckets, don't have to worry about possible shade differences between gal cans. Best to use a paint mixer bit that attaches to a drill and a pour sprout that attaches to the 5 gal bucket, each a couple dollars.

 

[omni550]

Good idea. We wear glasses, and hate stopping to clean off the paint.

I always wear something to cover my hair, too, when working above my head.

If you decide to paint the ceilings (which I highly recommend, btw!)...the same painting professional guy has an excellent video on how best to do those, too...

omni

 

[Amethyst]

Not sure our rotator cuffs are up to painting ceilings any more.

We would probably hire someone, if it has to be done.

 

[Sunset]

I would definitely paint the ceiling, it's amazing how dingy a ceiling gets, just put a white thing up to it to see, or paint a spot.

Do the ceiling first, as then you don't have to worry about hitting the walls, just wipe any hits on the walls with the paint brush to flatten them down and spread them out.

 

[zinger1457]

If you have textured walls and ceilings and they are different colors it can get tricky trying to cut in a nice line between the two surfaces. There are some good tips online, it usually involves placing a bead of caulking between the two surfaces to create a flat mating surface.

 

[kgtest]

Amethyst

I would add a handheld painters bucket. It's helpful when up on the ladder cutting the top edges. It seems to create a little efficiency so you don't need to climb back down and up or mess with paint trays hanging dangerously off the ladder. A contractor friend clued me in to this.

Always have a warm wet rag ready, and just plastic off the carpets and floors. That way you don't need to bother if you spill, just don't step in the spill. (Don't ask how I know this).

Don't press too hard with the rollers or risk inconsistency. If you want, you can add smells to your paints. They make little additive packets to add into the paint for a nice smell!