Silly(?) Question Re: Slab On Grade

Tyro

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DW just asked me a question as I was walking across the kitchen, and I had to stop and say, "What?" three times because the squeaky floor was drowning her out. I know there are fixes for squeaky floors in older frame construction houses (some made more difficult depending on type of finish floor and accessibility beneath), but we're planning on moving as soon as we can figure out where (a whole 'nother ball-o-worms) anyway.

So my question, for those who live in slab-on-grade houses (Southwestern US) is: Do your floors squeak as much as floors built on joists?

Tyro
 
So my question, for those who live in slab-on-grade houses (Southwestern US) is: Do your floors squeak as much as floors built on joists?
I've never owned a home other than one with a slab foundation - they have zero floor squeaks (downstairs, that is :)).
 
In short, we have wood floors on slab, 10+ years old and no squeaks. Could your floor be slighly warped due to moisture?
 
If the slab was not sanded flat prior to installation, the glue in the "dips" may/will eventually loosen, causing pockets where the "wood" flooring will give when walked upon.

Have not tried it, but one suggestion was to drill some inconspicuous (or conspicuous, if you wish) holes in those areas, then try to inject some lightly expanding foam through the holes to help fill the gaps.

I just live with the creaks.
 
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One of my sisters has wood floors that creek and pop at times... like the other post, I think it was a bad job....

My other sister who has wood does not have any squeaks... unless you stop on one of her dogs :LOL:
 
On a slab foundation normally you would have to build a sub-floor (plywood) to install a 100% wood floor. I have engineered wood floors in my house that float on a foam pad over the slab. The floor manufacturers will tell you to check your slab for flatness and to use a leveling agent if it's really bad.
 
....as I was walking across the kitchen, and I had to stop and say, "What?" three times because the squeaky floor was drowning her out.

Apologies. Rereading my OP, I see that I was inadvertantly vague (maybe that's what I get for posting with insomnia :blush:). Our floors squeak because our current house is full basement frame construction (floor joists), and over 30 years old.

We've no experience living in slab construction, (only visiting, and not paying attention to such) and while I would think the floors would be more stable, everyone knows what they say about "ass-u-me-ing" -- had to ask. Thanks.

Looking forward to quieter (and one-floor) living in the future. :greetings10:

Tyro
 
Wood flooring will squeak because of the nails that hold down the sub-floor and wood strip flooring. Now they recommend screws and staples for better holding power. For wood strip flooring, I sprinkled baby powder over the areas and swept it into the gaps for several days. It actually reduces/removes a lot of the squeaking. This method lubricates the loose nails over time. Other remedies I read about: find the problem area and drive screws from underneath. If you have carpeting, drill screws from above through the carpeting to tighten the subflooring.
 
...drill screws from above through the carpeting to tighten the subflooring.
There is a "system" you can get for hardwood floors or carpet where the screws are made to break-off below the floor surface. The hardwood system has bungs to fill the holes. But in my opinion the squeeks just add character ;)
 
There is a "system" you can get for hardwood floors or carpet where the screws are made to break-off below the floor surface. The hardwood system has bungs to fill the holes. But in my opinion the squeeks just add character ;)


My stairs and second floor have squeeks and I do not think they add character.... they are carpet, so it is the underfloor that squeeks...
 
If you have hardwood/sub-floor with a basement beneath, you can sometimes find the creaky board, and slip a wedge in place to eliminate the movement
 
If you have hardwood/sub-floor with a basement beneath, you can sometimes find the creaky board, and slip a wedge in place to eliminate the movement

This works if you can access the direct sub-floor. The house where I had an unfinished basement to access the sub-floor, there were 2 separate sub-floor layers w/a spacing gap of 4-6" between them. You couldn't even get to the problem area w/o major demolition work. I discovered this when redoing the kitchen floor and living room floor (HVAC duct change). With this type of floor design, only choices are using a powder or drilling through the top side.
 
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