Sloping/bouncy/squeaky floors - adding beams with adjustable posts under home

lionfire

Dryer sheet aficionado
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
26
Home is about 12 years old. It was built by a reputed builder, but I have been experiencing the following issues recently (or actually increasingly getting worse over the last few years)

1) Increasingly squeaky floor in some areas (first floor, directly above a crawlspace). Both wood floor and carpeted areas. Squeaks sometimes are fixable via DIY solutions like this

2) Sagging floors - floor appears to be sagging a bit right under where the kitchen island is - the island is a pretty heavy piece of wood + granite countertop. The kitchen counters that are near that island (and against the periphery of the kitchen) are "leaning forward" towards the island by a small amount. The wood floor in the kitchen area makes a lot of noise (cracking sounds) when we walk over it. Its pretty obvious in the morning (first time one walks over those areas) and then it quiets down a bit. I can still hear the sounds as I am now super sensitive to those. There is one other place where I can "feel" the floor sag in this way as well.

2a) Right above where the floor is sagging, on the second floor, I can feel the floor make some small squeaking sound.

3) A few more areas where the floor feels "bouncy" (i.e. it seems to deflect down as you walk over it). The floor area farthest away from the walls is the most deflective and has squeaks/"cracking" sounds as one walks over them.

Now, my wife who lives at home doesnt seem to be bothered by these issues. I am about 145 lbs, and she is heavier :) but still i can feel these issues much more acutely than her. I am generally quite sensitive to even small sounds (I sleep with ear plugs at night) and other stimuli in general - all my life.

I got a couple of foundation repair specialists to come and take a look, as I suspected the home was settling (perhaps excessively). Both of them told me the foundation itself was ok (max of 1/2" difference between the farthest points). Then they both used a 360 deg. laser level to measure the height differences in various parts of the home, away from the perimeters and in the various places where the above listed issues were present. One of them - a retired engineer - did a 'better' job (went all over the crawl space to examine the joists, joist span, beam type, beam spans, etc.) and basically told me that that while everything was to code, the builder had used the min. standards - OMB vs. plywood, joist distance of about 19", max. span for the beams, etc. which was causing the issues... (good news is the concrete pads under the beam posts were pretty big and solid, and there were no dampness in the soil - quite dry under the vapor barrier). He suspected that the ground under the concrete pads were not sufficiently compacted before the posts/beams were installed. Now, I am a mechanical engineer myself so I understand all these concepts (I also did a lot of research online), and it all made sense. The guy told me that there were no structural concerns and what he saw were "aesthetic" - most people never notice these, but I was very sensitive (duh) and noticing them. That said, he did say that I was NOT imagining things, there really was settling and "slopes" in the floor.

I work from home so this has driven me crazy. I tiptoe around these areas and my anxiety gets hold of me as I walk thru the areas. So he suggested that to fix this we could:

1) install 6x6 beams in a few places (like right under the kitchen island), using adjustable post (4x6) bases and new concrete pads (compact the ground first).

2) For existing posts, use hydraulic jacks to support the beam and replace the posts with new posts or switch them out to use adjustable post bases that can be adjusted over time as needed if the home settles more later. We would use the existing concrete pads.

3) ... and then both these types of posts would be height adjusted (very slowly) while using a laser level above them to restore the sagging floors to be flat. He said that he expect many of the "cracking"/"squeaking" would go away, at least greatly reduced. He said he couldnt guarantee it and that they wont be "spot fixing", but we would be aiming to make the floors flatter so he expected it to behave much better in an engineering sense. The floors should also feel "more solid" and less bouncy as there would be no gaps between the joists and the subfloor, which also reduces/eliminates any sounds from material rubbing against each other.

4) they would also install "blocks" between the joists "strategically" to reduce any deflection and also lube (apply glue?) between the subfloor and the joists to further reduce any noise.

The quote is about $14,000 for 2 new beams/posts/concrete pads and fixing the existing posts and the blocks/lube work. It would be about $5500 for each additional beams/posts if we'd like to firm up the floor in other places of the home.

The crawlspace is fairly hard to work in - it is about 2 ft tall at the lowest point, and about 3-4 ft max. I have gone crawling down there a few times and it isnt the most comfortable place to be working... so I think it is a fair price for this type of work. But what do you all think?

Oh, we do plan on keeping this home for a while, may be rent it out when I downsize once my kids have moved out, etc. - so I see this as an investment to protect an asset. But I am curious to hear your experiences with this type of home repair, is the price fair, what other things to watch out for, questions to ask, etc.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'd be sure to get 4 quotes total.

I have to ask, are you the original owner? Or did a previous owner take out a support or move a support to make a more clear space under the floors ?

I've done similar work for myself, and consider the $14K steep as the suggested materials don't cost much at all. I know they have to make a profit, but you want the job done right if you are paying that price.

I would wonder about suggested beam:
"1) install 6x6 beams in a few places (like right under the kitchen island), using adjustable post (4x6) bases and new concrete pads (compact the ground first)."

My thought would be (without seeing anything) is you should be adding a new beam at the 1/2 way point of the floor joists, and a 6x6 is convenient to quote but might not be deep enough for the span.

What I suggesting is you would need a layered 2x10 or 2x12 size of beam, or like many basements go with a steel I beam.

There are tables for live load floors, and the depth and thickness a beam should be for a given span. This will give you an idea of the issue:
https://www.the-house-plans-guide.com/beam-span-tables.html#:~:text=So%20we%20now%20have%20adequately%20sized%20floor%20joists,14%277%22%20%28if%20using%20a%205-ply%202%20X%2012%29.
 
If you are game for fixing the crawlspace part, I will describe the fix in detail. It is not expensive nor difficult, beyond the crawling through the crawlspace part.
There is no need to either replace posts or use adjustable posts. The job can be done with a bottle jack and some cribbing, and a bundle of 2x4 wood wedges like these.
https://www.closelumber.com/stakes/218-2x4-shim-wedge.html

As for adding extra support, you can crawl in 4x8x16 solid concrete blocks and set them in pairs, and use a 2x8 fir block to bridge across them.
I cut whatever length of 4x6 that I can handle through the access and drag them in, and hold them up against the joists with a knee and toe screw it to the joists to keep it in place while I cut the posts to size. Cut the posts short so you can use the 2x4 wedges to adjust as needed.
I have done this job to meet the L/360 deflection requirements for tile flooring on a remodel.
It helps to have a helper at the access hole and also have a helper inside with a 6' level. It can be the same guy but I would not want to go it alone.
 
Last edited:
I've done similar work for myself, and consider the $14K steep as the suggested materials don't cost much at all. I know they have to make a profit, but you want the job done right if you are paying that price.

I would wonder about suggested beam:
"1) install 6x6 beams in a few places (like right under the kitchen island), using adjustable post (4x6) bases and new concrete pads (compact the ground first)."

My thought would be (without seeing anything) is you should be adding a new beam at the 1/2 way point of the floor joists, and a 6x6 is convenient to quote but might not be deep enough for the span.

What I suggesting is you would need a layered 2x10 or 2x12 size of beam, or like many basements go with a steel I beam.[/URL]

I agree that the cost is high. I'd add a beam across the middle to cut the joist span in half and install a beam with triple or more likely quadruple 2x10s. I don't know the span but would support it every 8' or so.

Crawling under crawl space isn't my idea of fun anymore at my age so I'd recruit my nephew or a couple young people to do the grunt work.
 
If it keeps you up at night...

I purchased a VERY OLD home back in 2004 with much worse conditions than you described. Drop a bag of marbles on the floor, and they would all congregate in one corner.

The house was built on a rock foundation in 1865...so, some settling occurred over the years. We had engineers come in, design and install a solution with metal I-beams, and adjustable jack posts that I had to fiddle with over the coming months. The cost back then was about $20K, and the adjustments were in INCHES, not 1/8" or 1/4 inch.

As we redid the old pine floors in many rooms, we added level, sister joists (2x4 or 2x6) to make things much better. That is beyond the scope of your work, but solid beams (wood or metal) on solid adjustable posts is a great way to start. These will not add value to your home, but they will make the home more attractive to buyers in the future...if you ever decide to move...plus you will be able to sleep better all those years without the fear of falling out of your bed!! :)
 
there is no need for triple anything and frankly, you are not getting any decent lengths of 2x10 in there. You make up for big beams with shorter spans. When I do this work I figure on no more than 6' between posts and piers, often I go 4' in critical areas like doorways and hallways.
A 4x6 is plenty in that application.
 
It's just as easy to put in 2x8's or 2x10's as 2x6's. That way 4' posts and piers are not required. My entire house (and I'm sure hundreds of thousands of others) are supported with 2x10's and posts 9' apart.
 
you can't get a 9' long anything into most existing crawlspaces, let alone get them turned 90 degrees once you are in there. New construction yes, but these are a little more problematic.
 
you can't get a 9' long anything into most existing crawlspaces, let alone get them turned 90 degrees once you are in there. New construction yes, but these are a little more problematic.

If OP can't get long beams into the crawlspace, then yes, short ones (and not so strong requirement) and more support pillars are going to be needed.

Some crawl spaces have exterior vents , OP could check if there are exterior vents and if really lucky they are on the side/back so a beam can be slid in and be the correct direction.
 
I have been in dozens of crawls in my life, for shoring up squeaky floors to doing complete plumbing remodels to pulling in wiring.
That 4x6 method works well for the typical 2' high space. The big thing to remember is, somebody is going to have to crawl under what ever you put in there. That somebody is often this bulky lad :D
 
Our home is a 1960s ranch. About 20 years ago, the squeak and bouncy kitchen/dining room floors got significantly worse.(talking really bouncy, made that part of the house shake if you jumped hard enough!) We had a builder come in and place two beams on concrete pads .About $4000 then. They worked well, Problem solved. We still have rare, occasional squeaks, but I think that happens with wood floors anyway.
Our crawl space starts off about 5 feet, moves down to about 3 feet where the beams needed to be placed.
Your quote sounds reasonable for today.
 
I would be tempted to use an engineered beam rather than a 4x4 beam. They are stronger and would not warp over time. If getting 4 quotes, make sure they are all for the same work. It is easy to have 4 guys quote 4 different fixes and that would not help.

I would check if the foundation was warrantied on the original construction and still in force. Could save you money.

You may also put a temporary jack in the location and then walk across the floor to see if the joist flex is the real problem. Verify that a supporting wall is across the floor joists and not between the joists. Verify that any supporting wall placed along a joist, that joist has been reinforced to support it.
 
I just replaced all original hardwood flooring in my 1870's house due to settling and other issues. I jacked the center of the house up 1-2" and leveled the floor, sistered or replaced joists. Floor is now level, not bouncy and looks beautiful.

I installed 9 beams (all 3xLVL of varying depths and glulam or LSL posts where needed. Major job, but definitely worth it.

CRLLS is spot on, get multiple quotes, it is a relatively easy job, but they need the insurance and since most people are intimidated by the scope of work they can charge more.

I would recommend not using temporary/adjustable jacks, they are temporary and are not in our area allowed as permanent support (not that they aren't used that way). They are good to use for the slow jacking of the house, but since the support base was solid and should be done settling now, they should replace the temporary jack with a permanent post.
 
Since OP says this is not structural, I wonder if a simple 'handyman' approach is sufficient? OP could hire it out, but a simple approach should be much cheaper. And could do it in stages - if stage 1 doesn't help enough, go on to stage 2, etc.

I'm picturing the simpler approaches of what has been mentioned. Maybe dig out just enough to put a 3~4" inches of the right kind of gravel (the sharp stuff that packs tight when compressed), so you can level it well. Put a support 4x4 there, on top of a cement 12" pad (a solid patio stone type), shimmed tight. Select places that should do the most good. I'm picturing two posts like this, 4' apart with a 6' long 2x6 (or 8) spanning 4 floor joists (64", allowing 4" overlap on the 6' 2-by.

Maybe 3 of those placed properly would take care of 98% of the problem? If not, add a few more. Even six of those just doesn't sound like a $14,000 job to me. Check them every few months for a while, tight up the shims if the dirt settles. Repeat until is seems the compacting is done.

If this was structural issue, I would not suggest this, but you just want to make it more solid. A good contractor really won't want to approach it unless they can do it "right" w/o callbacks. You don't need to hold yourself to that standard if you accept it might need some tweaks later.

Oh, and keep the records of the evaluations
- that might be important when you go to sell eventually.

-ERD50
 
Last edited:
Have you put a 3' or 4' level on the floor to see if it is actually sagging? Is the cracking and popping actually due to sagging and a structural problem? Any flooring over a crawlspace that has external influence, such as humidity, will cause cracking popping noises.
When I redid my landing at the top of my second story stairs that leads to 4 bedrooms, i put the baseboard pretty tight against my new floating hardwood floor. Well, it sounds like the upstairs is haunted with the floating floor sliding under the new baseboard.
Sometimes when contractors put the OSB/plywood subflooring down, they miss the joists when they nail/screw it down. if you have carpet on the squeaky places, just run a a 1 1/4" deck screw down through the carpet to settle it down. Just know where your copper plumbing lines run so you don't run a screw into them and have a moist surprise.
 
The squeaking issue is a contractor taking a short cut IMO. Every floor joist premade or single 2x12 should have been liquid nailed than plywood installed and screwed to joist. The glue will keep it from squeaking and making creating that tight bond so that gap can't happen. That issue can be done with liquid nail (chalk) by going into crawl space and finding the squeaking spots and run a bead of glue on either side of joist and plywood.

As far as the sag you got great advice from posts what you need to do there.
 
My church does such jobs on domestic mission trips in our community. Dealing with a crawl space sure beats a basement or slab foundation.

We just cut out the entire floor and put in all new floor supports and decking. We're just talking about a couple of hours' work for a kitchen--not including installing the finish flooring is going to be. There again, we are blessed to have a lot of free labor.

In the past few years, we've built 4 charity homes from scratch--two of which were 1900 square ft. We have all talents in house, including architect, electrical engineer/contractor and framer. In 7 work days, we finish'em completely.
 
We built our house with 2x10's spaced every 16". This is fine for most areas, but when we placed our very heavy entertainment center mid span in our living room, I could really feel the floors flex as I walked on them. It wasn't going to hurt anything, I just wasn't comfortable with it.

So I screwed an 8 foot 2x2 to the bottom of the floor joists, then lifted a 4x6x8' beam up tight against the joists and drove screws through the 2x2 to hold the beam temporarily. Basically the beam was now suspended temporarily under the joists.

I placed some deck pier blocks under the beam, measured the distance between them, and cut 4x4 posts to fit exactly. Then I tied everything together with metal brackets.

It wasn't anything fancy and didn't take much time or money to install, but it greatly reduced the deflection where our entertainment center was. I wasn't trying to fix sagging or anything, just minimize the deflection.

I have since built a new entertainment center that weighs much less, so deflection isn't an issue anymore. But the beam doesn't hurt anything being there.
 

Attachments

  • 2004-10-20 2356 - Support beam for living room floor.jpg
    2004-10-20 2356 - Support beam for living room floor.jpg
    543.4 KB · Views: 12
  • 2004-10-20 2357 - Support beam for living room floor.jpg
    2004-10-20 2357 - Support beam for living room floor.jpg
    525.8 KB · Views: 15
^
That's a nice solution that can be done for a couple hundred dollars of lumber and blocks, although I'd probably use short adjustable teleposts instead of 4x4's. And maybe 18" x 18" deck blocks to spread the load over a larger area.
 
Last edited:
^^ Exactly what can be done. Easly done in little time and little cost, which I agree.
 
Unless it's unsafe, I'd address my reaction to squeeky floors rather than the floors themselves. But that's just me.

Over the years, a few squeeks have developed, but I just think "it adds character", or maybe do the stoic negative visualisation thing and imagine living in a dirt floor dwelling, and then embracing my wood floors exactly as they are.
 
I agree that something very similar to mountainsoft's approach (post #18) is very likely to do the job very well, for a pretty low cost.


Unless it's unsafe, I'd address my reaction to squeeky floors rather than the floors themselves. But that's just me.

Over the years, a few squeeks have developed, but I just think "it adds character", or maybe do the stoic negative visualisation thing and imagine living in a dirt floor dwelling, and then embracing my wood floors exactly as they are.

Re-read the OP. He says it is not structural, but there is sag and 'bounce'. It bothers him and he plans to live there for a while. I think the easy fix is well worth a try.

-ERD50
 
^
That's a nice solution that can be done for a couple hundred dollars of lumber and blocks, although I'd probably use short adjustable teleposts instead of 4x4's. And maybe 18" x 18" deck blocks to spread the load over a larger area.

Agree since OP wants to raise the sagging floor a tiny amount , the use of adjustable posts would allow this by doing a 1/2 turn per week to allow the wood to flex and adjust.

A post is fine if OP just wanted to stop the downward flexing.

https://www.amazon.com/BISupply-Basement-Floor-Jacks-Adjustable/dp/B07MCL4CMH/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom