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Stain or not to stain new veneer windows - ?
06-28-2015, 06:32 PM
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#1
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 717
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Stain or not to stain new veneer windows - ?
We installed a new windows like this Ultraâ„¢ & WoodCladâ„¢ Series Fiberglass Windows | Milgard Windows & Doors
And now we planned to stain them, but getting a cold food in doing so (expensive cost, life destruction, they look nice without stain, laziness etc - some of the reasons).
So asking this forum of wise people for an advise - does anybody has an experience not staining them? how dd it work out? any other suggestions?
Thx
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06-28-2015, 06:47 PM
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#2
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 14,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanaberetiree
And now we planned to stain them, but getting a cold food in doing so (expensive cost, life destruction, they look nice without stain, laziness etc - some of the reasons).
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I went to the site, it was very slow to open.
It looks like the window frames are fiberglass on the exterior surfaces and the interior has some sort of wood veneer over the fiberglass? Okay--is it bare wood right now, or is it finished in any way? If it is bare wood, you really have no choice but to put a finish on it, and do it soon. Whether you stain the wood or not, it needs a protective coating to keep moisture, dirt, oil from hands that touch the frames, etc from penetrating the open pores of the wood veneer. Once this happens, the normal fix is to sand down the wood to get to new wood and do what should have been done originally--finish it. But veneer isn't thick enough to take much sanding, and the sanding is a lot more work than just finishing it in the first place.
You can't leave the wood bare, it will look dirty in short order and the veneer will likely start to split or detach due to the rapid changes in moisture content windowframes experience, particularly in the winter.
I'd recommend you get some wood samples of similar species and "cut" to the veneer you have. You can even get some veneer. Then, try some stain samples (you can get little packets of Varathane stains inexpensively), and then try some different types of durable top finishes. You'll probably want to use a polyurethane top coat--likely 2-3 applications. And you might try the top coatings without any stain, too--it will likely be a little darker than the bare wood you have now, but it won't artificially enhance or diminish the grain patterns as much as some stains do.
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06-28-2015, 06:58 PM
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#3
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Full time employment: Posting here.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samclem
Okay--is it bare wood right now, or is it finished in any way? If it is bare wood, you really have no choice but to put a finish on it, and do it soon. Whether you stain the wood or not, it needs a protective coating to keep moisture, ...
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I'd say it's bare wood. What would be a minimum way to protect them? Will oil work like here - SKYDD Wood treatment oil, indoor use - IKEA ?
__________________
“The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubt, while the stupid people are full of confidence.”
(—Charles Bukowski)
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06-28-2015, 07:05 PM
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#4
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 14,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanaberetiree
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That's not what I would choose.
Maybe ask the people who sold you the windows what they recommend.
Single-pane windows get condensation ont he inside, this drips onto wood and will eventually make it look ugly, discolored, or rot. Modern dual-pane windows with insulated lights do this much less, but it can still happen in some climates and conditions of interior humidity. You spent a lot on these windows, I'd protect the vulnerable interior wood veneer with something designed to do the job right.
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06-28-2015, 07:24 PM
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#5
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,222
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If you like the natural look all you probably need is some type of sealer for the interior wood. I would check with the manufacturer to see what product they recommend and to make sure whatever you use that you'll be covered under your warranty.
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06-28-2015, 07:30 PM
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#6
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Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,763
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What samclem said.
This is from their web site,
"Interiors are available in clear vertical grain fir, natural pine or primed pine. Seal or stain the natural pine or fir to complement the wood finishes in your home. Or go with primed wood and paint the color of your choice."
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06-28-2015, 07:40 PM
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#7
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Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Huntsville, AL/Helen, GA
Posts: 6,002
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Need a little more info. before giving advice. Fiberglass windows and door units are really popular since they don't contract so much with weather. They're obviously expensive--no entry level windows.
Are you talking about inside being a wood veneer? What are your inside doors finished in? How formal is your house? What part of the country are you in?
Go in the truly "fine" homes in our area, and you're going to see painted trim and 100% hardwood flooring.
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