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Old 03-10-2018, 05:50 PM   #21
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BTW, on this forum, you will get heated debates on when to take SS retirement benefits and if you should have a mortgage in retirement. But few will advise you to sell your car with 50k on it.
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:30 PM   #22
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If your car is 10 years old, you need to also get the timing belt checked/replaced.

We just killed our 16 yo, 80k mi car because we failed to pay attention to the age of the car rather than just the odometer. Timing belt broke and the engine seized. We are now shopping for its replacement. It’s probably not a bad thing, since safety features have come a long way. I just prefer to replace a car on my terms not someone else’s.
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:46 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by brucethebroker View Post
+1 on getting other quotes.
+2

Often, depending on the car, you can save a lot getting tires from tirerack.com or discounttire.com, and having them installed locally. Plus, you'll have a much greater selection of tires. They will also list any applicable rebates offered by the tire companies.

Both websites provide a list of local installers that have agreed to install their tires, and you can have them shipped directly to the installer.

Tirerack also throws in for free a 2 year road hazard warranty on their tires.

I've used tirerack a number of times, and discounttire recently.
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ocean view View Post
If your car is 10 years old, you need to also get the timing belt checked/replaced.
This is true only if you have an interference engine. (You can check here: Interference Engines - The Complete List - Your Car Angel - Your Car Angel) Many cars have non-interference engines and if the timing belt or timing chain breaks it does not result in any serious damage to the engine.
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:12 PM   #25
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I agree with everyone else, you definitely should buy a new car. Today it is tires and brakes, tomorrow a battery and wiper blades. Get rid of this money pit!
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:38 PM   #26
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The trade in value on the car is $5,500. Realistically, it's probably the more frugal choice to just make the repairs, but at what point does it make sense to buy a new car? If my car is worth $5,500 and I put in $1,200, that's 22% of the car's value.
Do you really think you'll get the full $5500 trade in value with worn tires and brake pads? Any dealer will inspect your car and deduct those cost from their offer. If that was their offer then it's already factored in, in either case you're paying for it whether you keep the car or sell it. Maybe it's just semantics but I don't consider tires and brake pads as a repair item, it's normal maintenance like changing the oil just not done as frequently.
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Old 03-10-2018, 08:04 PM   #27
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Thought I drove minimal miles - have a 2004 Acura TL with 98,000 miles / 7000 miles per year.

Plan on keeping mine for many more years so you know what my opinion is.
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Old 03-10-2018, 08:46 PM   #28
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Fix.
Buy a new car when the safety features become compelling.
We have 47K on our 2008 Audi A3 and plan to keep it until we can lease the “right” electric car.
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Old 03-10-2018, 10:25 PM   #29
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I agree with everyone else, you definitely should buy a new car. Today it is tires and brakes, tomorrow a battery and wiper blades. Get rid of this money pit!
+1
I nearly replace my 3 yr old Sienna Van because it needed new wipers, but Menards was selling them with a rebate which made the wipers free, there are 3 of them you know!!.

So free wipers saved my Van, next week I'll decide if I should fill the gas tank or just trade it in
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:21 PM   #30
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Thought I drove minimal miles - have a 2004 Acura TL with 98,000 miles / 7000 miles per year.

Plan on keeping mine for many more years so you know what my opinion is.

Man, wish I still had mine.... bought the 6 speed.... loved the car...

Totaled it out a few years ago with 48K miles.... between 4 and 5K per year...
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:34 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ocean view View Post
If your car is 10 years old, you need to also get the timing belt checked/replaced.

We just killed our 16 yo, 80k mi car because we failed to pay attention to the age of the car rather than just the odometer.
+1 along with @REWahoo’s insight specific to timing belts
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Old 03-11-2018, 04:56 AM   #32
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The first year's depreciation on a new car would be higher. 50K miles is not very high. Repair.
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Old 03-11-2018, 06:46 AM   #33
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A car is a very personal thing so it's hard to say what's right for any particular individual.

Financially, it makes sense to repair. You have hardly any mileage; even my low mileage car has 67,000 miles after 10 1/2 years, more mileage than yours and I am keeping it. Maintenance costs are lesser than the other costs associated with a new car.
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:15 AM   #34
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In general, I would say repair if you like the car and want to keep it and the features on it are adequate and there haven't been significant safety advances. So those are a lot of ifs.

You don't say how old the car is but many are assuming around 10 years given you say you drive 5k a year. But, I don't know if you bought it used so maybe it is not that old.

Cars that are 10 years old start lacking a lot of the newer safety features. So that is a point where I might seriously start thinking of replacement even if the mileage on the car was not that high. But, not knowing what car you have and its age I don't know if that is a factor.
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Old 03-12-2018, 12:09 PM   #35
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Car has 50k miles on it and is a simple reliable compact car
It may last for another 150K miles. Replacing tires and brakes is not considered as repair. The estimated cost of $1,200 is simply too much. A good set of tires for a compact car should be about $400. Replacing brake pads and possibly discs should be about $300. You could easily replace the pads and bring the discs to a shop to have them turned to save money.
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:01 PM   #36
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I would not expect tires on a new car to last 50K miles... so far, of the last 5 cars I have owned 4 of them have needed new tires around 30K miles and the 5th just hit 20K so the jury is still out...
Are you driving in tough conditions, or drifting around town like Mario Andretti? My Camry tires lasted me around 60,000 miles. My truck is going on 50k and the tires are still just fine (a nail in one of them but no leak) and at least another 10k on them.

My maintenance schedule for the first 100k miles:
1 ATF flush $70
1 new battery when it dies or at 100k - ~70
4 new tires around 60k ~$400
2 brake jobs, 50k/100k or when wear bar squeaks (do them myself for $20)
2 air filters before 100k or when car starts to smell musty - $8/cabin $8 air
1 set of spark plugs - $12
1 set of wipers around 100k or when the wipers start streaking - $16

And oil changes/top-offs along the way.

All in all if you don't count the oil changes, this routine maintenance costs you around $700 for every 100,000 miles if you add in $20 oil changes every 5,000 miles its more like $1100. If you can get by any cheaper you are winning

And this is from a guy who hand-waxes 2x a year, and hand-washes/dries as often as he can. These vehicles are pretty resilient if you don't beat on them.
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:33 PM   #37
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What they all said.

For DW, I keep her in a leased mid-size SUV for MY peace of mind.

I'm always in some 5-10 YO "POS" that is fully depreciated the day I acquire it. My current jalopy is an '07 Honda Element that I've affectionately labeled as my Gamma Goat. It's marginally good at many, many things. But may be good at lasting over a 1/4 million miles.

Do the maintenance, then treat yourself / SO to a nice dinner.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gama_Goat
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:46 PM   #38
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I'll buy your car as long as it is not a foreign car, as 50,000 miles is about my entry point for most vehicles I have bought over the years. I change my own oil, filters and brakes. Flush the ATF? Never had that done, ever. Change oil in rear end? Nada, never. All my cars/trucks have seen well over 200,000 miles, unless involved in an accident. My greatest achievement was a 1984 Blazer I bought with 49,000 miles and had it scrapped at 454,000 miles in 2003, with the odometer dead for the last year. I just got tired of driving it.

Get it fixed.
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:50 PM   #39
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I have an '03 Olds Aurora 4.0L with 29000 miles - worth about $2-3K trade in max and I spent $800 on new tires a year ago not because the original tires were worn out but because they started showing some cracks in the sidewalls. Could have gone much cheaper but I like to have a top rated quality tire just in case.
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Old 03-12-2018, 04:34 PM   #40
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My 2011 CRV has 140000 miles on it. Just put new tires on ($600 Costco). No reason to upgrade to a new car yet.
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