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Old 03-19-2018, 07:15 AM   #61
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Agree with Zinger from earlier. If the OP tries to trade-in the vehicle a dealer will deduct the full cost of tire and brake replacement from their trade-in offer. Most cars I buy have over 50k miles to start with, so I vote for repair/replace.

Also, the OP should start budgeting for routine repairs. Adding $50/month to a 'repair fund' will cover most routine issues over the long-term. In addition, consider asking a handy friend/family member if they can teach you how to replace the brakes yourself.
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:48 AM   #62
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Refuse to spend my money & time on old cars with dated technology. My life is short enough.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:34 AM   #63
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I don't get good life on my tires either, and I don't jackrabbit, and I think the inflation is correct. I have about 30K on my Subaru and I'm thinking to get new ones in the fall. I don't remember how long I went on my Pilot but I tried to stretch one more winter because they passed inspection and I felt like I "should" have been able to get more. An unexpected snow hit and I lost traction on a slight downhill curve, going about 15mph, and slid into a ditch and guardrail. So I'm not going to try to squeeze 60K miles just because. Good tires are more critical than having AWD/4WD in snow, especially in the mountains, IMO.

My Miata usually ages out before the tread goes. I was complaining to my mechanic that it just wasn't riding right, and he suggested changing the 9 yr old tires (25K miles) before doing any other work. He was right.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:50 AM   #64
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I'd never get rid of a car because of routine maintenance. You get a new car, you now have to pay for it AND in a few years you STILL have to pay for maintenance so what are you gaining?

My Honda CRV has 105k miles on it and has never had to be repaired. I'm hoping to keep it to 150k before I cave and trade in for newer features. Basic things like backup camera, hands-free, and USB charging are annoying not to have but can deal with it for a while longer. With 2 cars we try really hard to stagger them every 5 years. We are spending about $50/month/car maintaining them, seems cheap to me.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:03 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by karen1972 View Post
..........Basic things like backup camera, hands-free, and USB charging are annoying not to have but can deal with it for a while longer. ........
You can add all these features with a new head unit aka radio. Not that expensive, especially if you can install it yourself.
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Old 02-25-2020, 04:35 AM   #66
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Refuse to spend my money & time on old cars with dated technology. My life is short enough.
Looks like this is the best place to post my comments. Recently had two experiences with modern technology on vehicles steering (no pun intended) me wrong.

#1. Engine light came on for my daughters 2007 Sentra. Went into the aoutoparts store to borrow the OBD code reader. The code (P0101) came up for mass air flow sensor. $39 on Rock auto. But first I thought I would try to clean it. CRC makes it in a spray can at $9.49. That worked for about 50 miles. After that I bought the new sensor. So now I am into this for almost $50. Another 25 miles or so and there is the light again. Then I took a closer look at the air hose. Yup, big crack on the bottom side of the hose. $8.49 on Rock auto. Bascially spent about $60 when I should have spent less than 10 if I had just trouble shot like I used to.

#2. Engine light came on for my 2000 Chevy Silverado. Went into the autoparts store to borrow the OBD code reader. The code (P0785) came up for transmission shift solenoid. Only $8.79 on Rock auto but you have to drop the transmission pan so fluid and gasket added in. Maybe 15-20 bucks. Turns out I just needed a transmission drain and flush. Basically had to do the drain either way but I saved the $8.79 at least.

Can't remember all the specifics on my first car in 1986 (1979 Dodge Colt). Bottom line it was a cheap fusable link. That's where I learned my troubleshooting skills.

Still work in Naval Aviation. Can't tell you how many times the $800,000.00 part gets changed first just to find out it is the bad $30 sensor that caused the problem.
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Old 02-25-2020, 06:38 AM   #67
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Basic OBD-II code reader is as low as $40...only shows codes but you can decipher those via the internet...you really should pick up your own.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:13 AM   #68
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If I had to replace my car every time I needed new tires, my transportation cost would sky rocket. I sold my last two vehicles at 220K miles and 290K miles.
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:46 AM   #69
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I think it's horrible that you use the auto part's store tools and then don't buy the part there. That's the definition of being cheap.
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:14 AM   #70
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I will probably get called cheap . I drive a 2006 Honda Ridgeline . The car runs fine uses no oil , but drinks gas. So my Check engine light comes on , I have 198000. miles . I wanted to cry . I take it to Honda dealer , needs a Catalytic Converter . Honda's price 1200.00 . But they will discount to 994.00 . I was so bummed , I go to get my truck washed , at the car wash they do mechanic work . I ask the guy how much for the converter . he wont quote . Sends me down the street.
I ask them 667.00 drive out . Then I ask if I buy my own converter sure 175.00
Bought a new converter on Amazon 140.00 plus 175 .00 labor . I am very happy.
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:38 AM   #71
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A car with 50K, is hardly broken in .
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:43 AM   #72
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Basic OBD-II code reader is as low as $40...only shows codes but you can decipher those via the internet...you really should pick up your own.
Did you read my post? The OBD code reader said replace mass air flow sensor. $39 bucks. Turns out the mass air flow sensor was fine. I needed a hose. $8. That's my point.
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:46 AM   #73
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I think it's horrible that you use the auto part's store tools and then don't buy the part there. That's the definition of being cheap.
R u friggin serious? They advertise the service for free. Also loaner tools. Have ever even been in an autoparts store? Thought not. I spend plenty of $ there. How dare you check out a book for free from the library. That's the definition of being cheap.
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" People say I'm lazy, dreaming my life away Well, they give me all kinds of advice designed to enlighten me When I tell them that I'm doing fine watching shadows on the wall "Don't you miss the big time, boy. You're no longer on the ball" -John Lennon-
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:47 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by Breedlove View Post
I will probably get called cheap . I drive a 2006 Honda Ridgeline . The car runs fine uses no oil , but drinks gas. So my Check engine light comes on , I have 198000. miles . I wanted to cry . I take it to Honda dealer , needs a Catalytic Converter . Honda's price 1200.00 . But they will discount to 994.00 . I was so bummed , I go to get my truck washed , at the car wash they do mechanic work . I ask the guy how much for the converter . he wont quote . Sends me down the street.
I ask them 667.00 drive out . Then I ask if I buy my own converter sure 175.00
Bought a new converter on Amazon 140.00 plus 175 .00 labor . I am very happy.
IKONOMORE would call you cheap.
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" People say I'm lazy, dreaming my life away Well, they give me all kinds of advice designed to enlighten me When I tell them that I'm doing fine watching shadows on the wall "Don't you miss the big time, boy. You're no longer on the ball" -John Lennon-
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:50 AM   #75
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Basic OBD-II code reader is as low as $40...only shows codes but you can decipher those via the internet...you really should pick up your own.
Why would I do that? I pop a code about once or twice per year. Plus I drive by the autoparts store basically every day. Stop checking those books out from the library. Buy your own.
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" People say I'm lazy, dreaming my life away Well, they give me all kinds of advice designed to enlighten me When I tell them that I'm doing fine watching shadows on the wall "Don't you miss the big time, boy. You're no longer on the ball" -John Lennon-
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:59 AM   #76
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Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car. In the 2 instances I referenced it did not. #1. It said bad mass air flow sensor. Tunrns out that was not the problem. #2. Transmission shift solenoid. That was wrong also.

Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.
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" People say I'm lazy, dreaming my life away Well, they give me all kinds of advice designed to enlighten me When I tell them that I'm doing fine watching shadows on the wall "Don't you miss the big time, boy. You're no longer on the ball" -John Lennon-
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Old 02-25-2020, 01:21 PM   #77
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My car needs new tires and new brakes. I think both of these will cost about $1,200. Or more. Car has 50k miles on it and is a simple reliable compact car. I think it could easily last another 50k miles after new tires and brakes.

The trade in value on the car is $5,500. Realistically, it's probably the more frugal choice to just make the repairs, but at what point does it make sense to buy a new car? If my car is worth $5,500 and I put in $1,200, that's 22% of the car's value.

I was looking at some slightly used cars online with like 15k miles on them. Presumably the tires on those cars would be good until about 50k miles, but I guess it all depends on the car.

I only drive about 5k miles a year, so do I:

A) fix my car and only spend $1,200 and be done with it and not have to deal with any major repairs/replacements for quite a while, until the car would be 15+ years old
OR
B) trade in my car, put down $10-15k out of pocket (in addition to trade in value), and buy a gently used car with 15k miles and not have to do any work to it (ideally.....) for 7 years.

I'm sure there are threads out there on this, but just something I've been giving thought to lately Curious to hear the ER community's thoughts.

Obviously there are unforeseen things that can come up, so maybe I am looking at this too naively....
I just paid $400 for new Truck Tires, with white walls, installed with a warranty from Wal-Mart with free LIFETIME rotation. I used Wal-Mart.com to order and saved another 5% since that was the category for rewards on my CC.

I bought new rotors AND brake pads for both the front AND back for like $150. I put those on myself but even so... I think your math is off a bit.


I bring my vehicles in for oil changes and they inspect all of this stuff on a regular basis and always forewarn me when things look bad. For instance they said my rear pads in truck are at 50% and the brake fluid is getting a little dirty. So i can expect to fix those 2 things shortly. They mentioned that the battery on my car CCA had depleted a bit...but its still starting the car. I know if I keep running a depleted battery, it will eventually cost me a starter...don't ask how I know this.
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Old 02-25-2020, 01:26 PM   #78
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I just paid $400 for new Truck Tires, with white walls...
Better check the mfg date to be sure they aren't left overs from the 1980's.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:02 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Bigdawg View Post
Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car. In the 2 instances I referenced it did not. #1. It said bad mass air flow sensor. Tunrns out that was not the problem. #2. Transmission shift solenoid. That was wrong also.



Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.


OBD codes don’t work that way and I think you really do know this already. A code indicating mass airflow sensor does not mean the sensor is bad. It means the computer detects a problem with the CIRCUIT. It could be the sensor or it could be wires, connector, signal, ground, etc. it could also be dirt. You really need a troubleshooting diagnostic chart to rule out the possible causes (usually starting with the cheapest easiest fix). I’ve been down that road with the CRC cleaner and had the same results as you.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:39 PM   #80
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My almost five year old Jeep Wrangler has 78K on it. I change the oil myself every 8K miles, it's on it's second set of tires, and aside from some warranty items the first year and $500 to replace a leaking radiator at 39K miles, I haven't had to do anything else.

Plus, it's paid for.

I wouldn't hesitate one minute to put new tires and brakes on a car in otherwise good condition with only 50K miles on it.
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