Home Improvement

[Music Lover]

I made a small boo boo with the kitchen island. It came with 3 stained panels for the sides and back that had to be cut to size. I marked very carefully and tried to cut the panels exactly to size. The sides were perfect but I cut the back panel a little more than 1/16" too large.

One option was to run it through the table saw again but trying to trim 1/16" off a panel never works...all it does is chip the edge. So I put it in place and spent almost an hour sanding to make it flush so that the counter will sit flush across the entire island.

[Koogie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Music Lover I made a small boo boo with the kitchen island. It came with 3 stained panels for the sides and back that had to be cut to size. I marked very carefully and tried to cut the panels exactly to size. The sides were perfect but I cut the back panel a little more than 1/16" too large.

https://www.early-retirement.org/for...ml#post2518439

[Music Lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koogie https://www.early-retirement.org/for...ml#post2518439

I measured 3 times

The problem was that I erred too much on the side of caution as this was a 5' stained maple panel that would be highly visible. In my defense though I forgot to mention that the back of the panel had two 4" wide strips of 1/2" thick support pieces and one of them was in a spot that made it almost impossible to lay the panel flat on the table saw.

[Finance Dave]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Music Lover I made a small boo boo with the kitchen island. It came with 3 stained panels for the sides and back that had to be cut to size. I marked very carefully and tried to cut the panels exactly to size. The sides were perfect but I cut the back panel a little more than 1/16" too large. One option was to run it through the table saw again but trying to trim 1/16" off a panel never works...all it does is chip the edge. So I put it in place and spent almost an hour sanding to make it flush so that the counter will sit flush across the entire island.

I'm a hobbyist woodworker and a handyman, and here is how you deal with that.


1) Set up the tablesaw fence to cut the 1/16" off. Install a zero clearance throat insert.

2) Set your blade height to about 1/64".

3) Apply painters tape to the edge you are going to cut.

4) Install a featherboard that applies pressure downward to your thin piece of plywood...or put a weight on top.

5)Place your piece on the saw good-side-down, and make the cut....basically this "scores" the material.

6) Raise the blade to where the gullets on the blade are just above the thickness of your material.

7) Make a second cut

DONE

I have done this hundreds of times with ZERO tear out.

[Ronstar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finance Dave I'm a hobbyist woodworker and a handyman, and here is how you deal with that. 1) Set up the tablesaw fence to cut the 1/16" off. Install a zero clearance throat insert. 2) Set your blade height to about 1/64". 3) Apply painters tape to the edge you are going to cut. 4) Install a featherboard that applies pressure downward to your thin piece of plywood...or put a weight on top. 5)Place your piece on the saw good-side-down, and make the cut....basically this "scores" the material. 6) Raise the blade to where the gullets on the blade are just above the thickness of your material. 7) Make a second cut DONE I have done this hundreds of times with ZERO tear out.

And it helps to use an 80 tooth blade

[Finance Dave]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronstar And it helps to use an 80 tooth blade

If it’s a crosscut yes, if it’s a rip cut you won’t need it. I use a combo blade with the above and have no issues

[bbqcoder]

I’m planning to start a second shed soon. Need to order the supplies and I’m afraid to find out how much things have gone up since last summer. Originally I was going to do a saltbox shed but I vetoed the idea. Instead I’m going to make a variation of a shed that I built before. The difference is that the entrance will be in the front with two full sized windows. I also plan to make a small shed dormer on the front. Lastly I will use cedar shingles for the upper half of the siding.

This shed will be my gardening shed. My previous shed is more of a workshop shed.

I’m also finishing up some indoor painting. My next project will be to put some light switches in our living room since you have to go in blind to turn on a light. I haven’t decided whether to put some can lights in the ceiling or to have it control an outlet for a floor lamp.

If you have experience with can lights in your living room, do you like it better than floor lighting?

[Music Lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finance Dave I'm a hobbyist woodworker and a handyman, and here is how you deal with that. 1) Set up the tablesaw fence to cut the 1/16" off. Install a zero clearance throat insert. 2) Set your blade height to about 1/64". 3) Apply painters tape to the edge you are going to cut. 4) Install a featherboard that applies pressure downward to your thin piece of plywood...or put a weight on top. 5)Place your piece on the saw good-side-down, and make the cut....basically this "scores" the material. 6) Raise the blade to where the gullets on the blade are just above the thickness of your material. 7) Make a second cut DONE I have done this hundreds of times with ZERO tear out.

Thanks. I'll remember that for next time.

[Music Lover]

A door story from yesterday:

Steel exterior door prices are ridiculous around here...$400 for basic no window pre-hung. So I found a used entry door on Marketplace for $150 but it had a couple dents. No problem, the drummer in one of my bands is an autobody guy and I'll get some autobody filler, patch it, paint, and good to go it. Of course the buy selling the door doesn't know this so I talked him down to $100.

I go there...it's a sketchy part of town and no one answers the door. So I leave and run a few errands. I get home 2 hours later to a message that he fell asleep, super apologetic, he'll give me the door for $80 for the inconvenience. I go back and the door is beaten to heck, the pic only showed one side that just had a couple small dents. It's useless. But the frame was perfectly new and intact. We haggled a bit and I bought the frame for $40.

Then I get home and look around and find a steel door only for $40. I message them and run and pick it up...non sketchy part of town

So now I have a brand new door frame and an excellent condition steel door all in for $80. I have to drill for the deadbolt and the hinges may not line up perfectly, but an hour or so of work and 2 hours running around saved me $300 or so.

[Finance Dave]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbqcoder I’m planning to start a second shed soon. Need to order the supplies and I’m afraid to find out how much things have gone up since last summer. Originally I was going to do a saltbox shed but I vetoed the idea. Instead I’m going to make a variation of a shed that I built before. The difference is that the entrance will be in the front with two full sized windows. I also plan to make a small shed dormer on the front. Lastly I will use cedar shingles for the upper half of the siding. This shed will be my gardening shed. My previous shed is more of a workshop shed. I’m also finishing up some indoor painting. My next project will be to put some light switches in our living room since you have to go in blind to turn on a light. I haven’t decided whether to put some can lights in the ceiling or to have it control an outlet for a floor lamp. If you have experience with can lights in your living room, do you like it better than floor lighting?

I prefer can lights. And they now make some flat LED ones you can use with a dimmer....you can install from below. Just make sure to get a color of light you want....measured in degrees Kelvin.

[1242Vintage]

Just finished the last job on our kitchen remodel! It was a complete gut and reconstruct job.

The last task was setting tile for the backsplash. Wife selected these awesome glass tiles that are very tough to cut and had to be extremely careful about scratching the coating on the back side.

The next job is to replace a deck. Not anxious to start a new project right now. Will get to it soon enough.

[Finance Dave]

Let's see a picture Vintage! I have never done glass tile, but they say you will see the mortar through them, so do you have to use special colored mortar or anything like that?

[1242Vintage]

I’ll have to figure out how to upload a picture. Very happy with the work and our choices of style, finishes and colors along the way.

These glass tiles have a colored coating on the back side so you don’t see the thin set behind them. Just have to be careful not to scratch the coating on the back, which is not easy. And the grout color is very close to the color of the tile.

[harley]

I've got a home repair job that's not worth pictures, but needs to be done. We have really nice cherry cabinets in our kitchen, as well as the bathrooms and living room. They've got the concealed hinges on them. There are also these little rubber buttons that keep the doors from slamming wood on wood. The house is 13 years old. For some reason last winter every one of those little buttons went soft and sticky. No reason I can determine, we've kept the house at the same temperature and everything for the past 8 years since we became snowbirds. I'm suspecting planned obsolescence. So now we have to tug on the cabinet doors to open them. It's a minor inconvenience. But I need to scrape all the sticky debris off the doors, rub them down with Goof Off or something, and put new buttons on. Lots of door and drawers, what a PITA.

In our new house we have the self closing hinges, which are nice. But when we get used to them we come back to the other house and slam the cabinet doors for awhile before we adjust. So I think I'm going to replace the hinges with the self closing types too.

I haven't told my wife my plans yet. She thinks this is the funniest meme she's ever seen:

[RobbieB]

Haha!

Yup, I go to my FIL's house and slam the cabinet doors.

Habits.

[ncbill]

Quote:

Originally Posted by harley I've got a home repair job that's not worth pictures, but needs to be done. We have really nice cherry cabinets in our kitchen, as well as the bathrooms and living room. They've got the concealed hinges on them. There are also these little rubber buttons that keep the doors from slamming wood on wood. The house is 13 years old. For some reason last winter every one of those little buttons went soft and sticky. No reason I can determine, we've kept the house at the same temperature and everything for the past 8 years since we became snowbirds. I'm suspecting planned obsolescence. So now we have to tug on the cabinet doors to open them. It's a minor inconvenience. But I need to scrape all the sticky debris off the doors, rub them down with Goof Off or something, and put new buttons on. Lots of door and drawers, what a PITA. In our new house we have the self closing hinges, which are nice. But when we get used to them we come back to the other house and slam the cabinet doors for awhile before we adjust. So I think I'm going to replace the hinges with the self closing types too. I haven't told my wife my plans yet. She thinks this is the funniest meme she's ever seen:

I've found the rubber tip disintegrates & turns into goo on door stoppers as well...but at least those are easy to replace if you catch them in time.

[Ronstar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ncbill I've found the rubber tip disintegrates & turns into goo on door stoppers as well...but at least those are easy to replace if you catch them in time.

Sounds familiar. The center of my steering wheel on my 2001 corvette (where the horn is) turned gooie last year. I read that the surface of some rubber or vinyl things tend to do this with age.

[JoeWras]

The rubber membrane that forms the buttons for many remotes used to turn to goo. It seems like they have fixed this in more recent vintage remotes (last 10 years). I hope so!

[Out of Steam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finance Dave I prefer can lights. And they now make some flat LED ones you can use with a dimmer....you can install from below. Just make sure to get a color of light you want....measured in degrees Kelvin.

1. 2700 to 3000K is a color temperature similar to the warm yellow of incandescent lights.
2. Do those LED can lights have replaceable bulb elements? I'm not a believer in the last forever thing.

[harley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Out of Steam 1. 2700 to 3000K is a color temperature similar to the warm yellow of incandescent lights. 2. Do those LED can lights have replaceable bulb elements? I'm not a believer in the last forever thing.

No, you just replace the whole cover. The LEDs are inside it. It's really simple. It's not really even a can, just a short thing that looks like one. I've been replacing old can lights with the new LEDs. Definitely an improvement. The retrofit LEDs have a wire with a standard E26 end that screws into the socket where the old bulb went, then pop the cover on and you're done. I haven't installed any new ones hardwired, but I'm pretty sure replacing them (in a decade or so) will be pretty easy too.