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Old 02-13-2018, 09:13 PM   #61
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Good that your supports are closing up the cracks. That indicates you are applying support in the correct direction. Will the supports stay in position once the engine is started and vibrations are present?
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:57 PM   #62
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Good that your supports are closing up the cracks. That indicates you are applying support in the correct direction. Will the supports stay in position once the engine is started and vibrations are present?
Thank you for your comment. We are planning to bolt the supports to the engine with 3/4 inch bolts to prevent them from moving.
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:48 PM   #63
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We just wire brushed the crack areas to make sure no attempt was made to weld them. We sent pictures to a company that specializes in cast iron repairs to get a quote.
I am hoping their quote is affordable.
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:17 PM   #64
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We just wire brushed the crack areas to make sure no attempt was made to weld them. We sent pictures to a company that specializes in cast iron repairs to get a quote.
I am hoping their quote is affordable.
Out of curiosity, I just followed some links and watched some youtube videos on welding cast iron. Very challenging, and lots of variables to deal with. The heating from welding often causes other cracks, as cast iron can't take much elongation.

Hope your guy can handle it!

One of the links was "Welding Cast Iron Will Make Preacher Cuss!"

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Old 02-28-2018, 08:27 AM   #65
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I understand that it is almost impossible to weld cast iron. The people we are dealing with have devised a mechanical method of metal stitching.
A discussion on the method is below:
http://http://www.locknstitch.com/pr...stitching.html
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:04 AM   #66
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A discussion on the method is below:
http://http://www.locknstitch.com/pr...stitching.html
That particular link is in error. It appears to be a "double http". Here is the same link. Hopefully it will work better.........

Precision Metal Stitching Repair - Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:10 AM   #67
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Wow!! I can weld most metals with various technologies (mig, tig, stick,carbon, etc) I also know how difficult it is to get a "true weld" into cast iron. But the link you supplied is a really good answer to this issue. Very, very, clever!!!

Here is a snippet form the linked article....... Very impressive!

The repaired, metal-stitched area is gas and liquid tight to create a pressure tight repair. In addition, metal stitching Dampens and Absorbs Compression Stresses. It also spreads tensile strains and distributes the load away from the original failure point, while maintaining the alignment of the original surfaces.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:14 AM   #68
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That particular link is in error. It appears to be a "double http". Here is the same link. Hopefully it will work better.........

Precision Metal Stitching Repair - Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.
Thanks, link was not working for me either.

In the process, I found this video - ~ 1:40 in you get a clear view of how they 'stitch' across a crack. The other videos had me confused, seemed they were just drilling out the crack and putting threaded inserts in place - I didn't see how that would hold anything together - but that looks to just be to get rid of the cracked material, and then those cross 'stitches' are the key to hold it together. Looks time consuming - I won't expect this to be cheap! But it does seem to get the job done.

Similar to butterfly keys in woodworking.

A Lesson in Butterfly Keys - FineWoodworking



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Old 03-20-2018, 03:57 PM   #69
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Thanks, link was not working for me either.

Looks time consuming - I won't expect this to be cheap! But it does seem to get the job done.
Similar to butterfly keys in woodworking.
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I got a quote of $25,000 to do the repair Needless to say we will not have them do the work. I came up with a simple design using screw eyes and bolts that will hold everything together.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:25 PM   #70
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I got a quote of $25 to do the repair Needless to say we will not have them do the work. I came up with a simple design using screw eyes and bolts that will hold everything together.
$25? How can anyone do anything like this for $25? Maybe they are giving you a very low price (materials?) as a charitable thing, since you are part of a volunteer organization?

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Old 03-20-2018, 04:46 PM   #71
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$25? How can anyone do anything like this for $25? Maybe they are giving you a very low price (materials?) as a charitable thing, since you are part of a volunteer organization?

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I screwed up I left out the K or 3 zeros
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:57 PM   #72
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I screwed up I left out the K or 3 zeros
OK, figured that was a possibility but then it kind of messes with the whole thing.

But yeah, it looked like an expensive process. $25K qualifies.

Good luck with the screw eyes and bolts. It's not like you are going to run this under heavy loads for decades.

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Old 03-20-2018, 08:22 PM   #73
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For 25 grand they could sand cast a new part.
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:40 PM   #74
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I drove out to the Rochelle Railroad Park today. It's about 2 hours due west of Chicago.

The park was built at the intersection where the mainline of the Union Pacific crosses the mainline of the Burlington Northern.



I was there for about an hour and 5 trains rolled through. They average 70-80 trains a day through this intersection. It's a great place for train buffs.

They also had this engine on display in the park. It's not a switching engine, but I immediately thought of this thread when I saw it and so snapped a picture.

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Old 03-27-2018, 08:59 PM   #75
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Thank you for posting the pictures.
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:39 PM   #76
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Today we drilled, and tapped the right side of the bell housing. We installed the eye bolts and the 1/2 inch bolt between them. Next time we will do the same for the left side of the bell housing.
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File Type: jpg Right side bolts.JPG (82.0 KB, 43 views)
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Old 04-13-2018, 06:23 PM   #77
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Today we drilled, and tapped the left side of the bell housing. We installed the eye bolts and the 1/2 inch bolts between them.
That completes the preliminary work. The next task is to get the diesel running. Here is the plan:
1. Install pushrods and injectors
2. Adjust rocker arms to factory specifications
3. Replace rocker arm cover gaskets and reinstall covers
4. Reinstall starter
5. Inspect all rubber hoses and replace as necessary
6. Drain and refill radiator
7. Drain crankcase and replace with 5 gallons of oil
8. Replace air, oil, fuel and fuel/water filters
9. Remove the belt driving the alternator
10. Connect batteries to starter
11. Cross our fingers
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File Type: jpg IMG_6346.jpg (450.5 KB, 40 views)
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:26 AM   #78
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Souschef, That is an interesting fix. From the looks of it, the eyebolts are made of formed steel, not cast. Generally that is a very soft and weak grade of steel. It will easily bend in use. If so, I would weld the end of the loop to the shank. I would have also added a spacer sleeve cut to fit each bolt between the 2 eyebolts to make it stronger.

Actually, I would have taken some steel straps, maybe 1/4 to 3/8" thick across the break instead of the eyebolts. Thinking more about what you did, I think you used the eyebolts as a tool to pull everything together. You might think about adding the straps between each set of bolts now that things are in place.

Nice work!
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Old 04-14-2018, 08:12 AM   #79
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Souschef, That is an interesting fix. From the looks of it, the eyebolts are made of formed steel, not cast. Generally that is a very soft and weak grade of steel. It will easily bend in use. If so, I would weld the end of the loop to the shank. I would have also added a spacer sleeve cut to fit each bolt between the 2 eyebolts to make it stronger.

Actually, I would have taken some steel straps, maybe 1/4 to 3/8" thick across the break instead of the eyebolts. Thinking more about what you did, I think you used the eyebolts as a tool to pull everything together. You might think about adding the straps between each set of bolts now that things are in place.

Nice work!
Yes, I see your concern that the eyebolts are probably pretty soft metal, and may bend over time and vibration. Though I'm sure Souschef will be monitoring that crack for any signs of it growing. It may be just fine for the loads it will see. Hard to say.

But what might be better, if this doesn't hold up, is something like the drawing I'm showing here. In place of eyebolts, he could use a pair of hardened pins/bolts, with a hard steel plate and hardened bolt (or 2-3 bolts, going on each side of the pins) to tie it all together.

-ERD50
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Old 04-14-2018, 09:02 AM   #80
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Thank you both for your suggestions. We will be monitoring our fix after we get the engine running.
The real key to the repair was the addition of steel supports under the rear of the engine to remove the load from the bell housing.
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