The Photographers' Corner 2013-2020

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I had seen this in Thom Hogan's review of the Sonys:

Image Quality: Okay, we are now in one area where I know I’m going to get a lot of blowback: image quality. The number one thing I heard the fanboys all rejoicing about when the A7r was announced was this: “Yes! D800E quality in a smaller, lighter, less expensive body.” No, the A7r produces less than D800E quality in a less expensive body. If you want a free lunch, I suggest you try the local rescue mission.

The difference isn’t actually easy to describe because it involves what’s going on behind the covers. But let me lay out the basics: the D800E will shoot 14-bit raw files with no underlying artifacts and fully recoverable data. The A7r will shoot 11-bit raw files with potential posterization issues in the data. The same is true of the A7 versus a D610, too.

Let’s start with the 11-bit thing. Sony always uses compression in storing raw files. The way they do that is quite clever. They slice each pixel row into 32 pixel blocks. In a Bayer sensor, that means two colors, each with 16 data points). For each 16 pixels of a color, Sony looks at the minimum and maximum pixel values for each and stores that. For the other 14 pixels they store a 7-bit value that is offset from the minimum value. In essence, they get 32 pixel values stored in 32 bytes, when normally 11-bit storage for that data should take 44 bytes.

This is not lossless compression. It is highly lossy. Nor is it visually lossless. That’s because when you have an extreme set of values in the 32-pixel block (e.g. sun peaking out from behind tree edge), you get posterization of data. Don’t believe me? See this article, which describes it better than I can in the limited space of a review. Indeed, every A7/A7r owner should probably have a copy of RawDigger so that they can understand exactly where the issues in their raw files lay. Even Nikon’s optional visually lossless compression scheme does a better job at this, as it hides its posterization only in very bright values that our eyes just don’t resolve.

Sony A7 and A7r Review | Sans Mirror — mirrorless, interchangeable lens cameras | Thom Hogan
 
I'm liking the Canon pixma pro-100. It was a bit of a bear reading instructions and digging around in the driver menus to turn off all the automatic stuff. I print almost exclusively from Lightroom and use ICC profiles, letting LR handle the color management. If I don't have a profile for the paper I'm using I'll use a couple of sheets and make one with the Colormunki. Combined with being (mostly) careful with white balance and using a Colorchecker often in the scene in unusual lighting, and shooting RAW, I have not be disappointed or surprised using that method. Color stays consistent from scene to camera to display to print.

Based on extrapolating/guessing from what I've read, a full 13"x19" print is going to cost ~$5-7 in ink alone, plus paper. That's anywhere from $2 on up depending on how fancy you want to get. Good thing I don't plan on doing much of that but it's nice to have the option should I shoot something worthy of it. The few 4x6 test prints have looked nice.

And the first one did in fact have a problem with "ganging of tolerances" I think it's called in manufacturingspeak. The parts just didn't fit, and went together nicely in the second example. Everything works as advertised.

And ordered an 8-pack of ink this morning, $119.95 at Adorama. Later found it a dollar or so less at Amazon. After the rebate that's more than I'll pay for the printer. As with Gillette "Give 'em the razor, sell the blades".

Actually I don't mind the ink prices too much. I don't print all that much anyway and according to Wilhem Research, Epson, Canon, and HP have all spent some serious money on making sure the inks and papers play nice with each other. Nothing wrong with getting their return on investment.
 
Judging by the interest of landscape photographers in the a7r (which can mount nikon/canon lenses with adapters), I'd say that many are choosing to go lighter.

Personally, I don't like to carry more than 3 lens in a backpack if I have to walk more than a mile (most of the time). However your 14-24 is a monster and might count as 2 lenses.
If I had the means I'd own a travel camera system and a second setup for when weight didn't matter. I can't afford 2, so my travel needs won out.

Pictured below is my camera, an Olympus EM-10 with a 9-18mm (18-36 FF equivalent) f4-5.6 lens. Because it's weight was mentioned in an earlier post, I compared the Oly to a Nikon D800 with the 14-24 f2.8, using camerasize.com. With lenses shown, the Nikon is 4 lbs 4.5 ozs and the Oly is 1 lb 3.6 ozs.

2Cameras.jpg

The Nikon is superior to the Oly in just about all the ways that matter. Will that avoid a FF vs m43 discussion?
 
I just posted a link to Thom Hogan's review of the OM-1, another m4/3 camera. As he put it, the 16mp sensor is performing above its weight class. Yes, the D800 is superior in every way. But, the best camera one has for a photos is the camera you have with you at the moment.
 
BTW, rumor sites are predicting a Nikone D800 successor, maybe called the D810, to be announced soon.
 
Trip photos
 

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Yes, Amalfi Coast and Pompei.

Have GPS embedded in the files.
 
The Photographers' Corner

I'm tossing around the idea of splurging on a Nikon D800, and a Nikon AF-S Zoom Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8G ED AF lens. I find myself shooting mostly landscape shots and this combo is highly rated.

I have a D5200 now. I see the weight of the D800 is 32 oz where the D5200 is 20 oz.

For you full frame people out there, does the extra weight wear on you after a while?


My D200 is not FF, but the lenses I use are older lenses for the film cameras, which are FF. You just need to find a comfortable and effective way to carry equipment. The camera and one lens (doesn't matter which) fit into a hip holster. The camera has a chest strap attached as well. The other two lenses, a 1.6x teleconverter, small flash and light meter fit into a small (self and heavily) padded back pack. A D800 wouldn't add that much more weight - not enough to notice. Perhaps I'm just used to it, but it's no big deal to carry all day. As someone else pointed out, in hot weather the back of my shirt gets wet. Buts, so does my hair, armpits... That's not from the weight, just the weather lol.

It's up to you to decide what you can carry comfortably, and whether it's worth - to you - the extra weight.

As to loss of auto focus when using adapters, I understand there are some which permit use of autofocus. Better yet, just learn how to effectively focus manually. It's not a big deal. Then you can purchase good, older (pre autofocus) prime lenses at lower costs.

Just my $.02...

I've been putting a lot of thought into a new camera, and which format, myself. My biggest turnoff is the menu driven crap, and all the worthless - to me - automatic crap such as 'portrait mode', etc. letting the camera make decisions for me is kind of insulting....
 
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I've been putting a lot of thought into a new camera, and which format, myself. My biggest turnoff is the menu driven crap, and all the worthless - to me - automatic crap such as 'portrait mode', etc. letting the camera make decisions for me is kind of insulting....

Which is why I'll probably never use a point 'n shoot again if I can help it. I use aperture priority or shutter speed mode mostly but am going to manual more and more often. Especially inside when using the speedlights to bounce light off the ceiling/walls.

The automatic mode does have a use. It is the one DW uses. She likes my photos, will watch as I place lights around a room, and has zero interest in learning what I'm doing or why. She has gone to a couple of the community college photo classes but then never picks up the camera afterward.
 
I continue to carry my full frame beast. In this particular application the 24-70 was the only lens I thought would be necessary. The ideal combo for what I do would be the Nikon 12-24 and the Canon 24-70, both lenses are the best at what they do IMO.

Top of Marble Mountain in the Sangre de Cristos. The valley on the left winds southward to the Great Sand Dunes Nat'l Park. I hope to explore that one this summer.



When we got back Sophie would have been happy to turn around and do it all again.
 
The Photographers' Corner

Which is why I'll probably never use a point 'n shoot again if I can help it. I use aperture priority or shutter speed mode mostly but am going to manual more and more often. Especially inside when using the speedlights to bounce light off the ceiling/walls.

The automatic mode does have a use. It is the one DW uses. She likes my photos, will watch as I place lights around a room, and has zero interest in learning what I'm doing or why. She has gone to a couple of the community college photo classes but then never picks up the camera afterward.


I'll use the automatic functions on my Metz flash, but the camera is always, with rare exceptions, in manual mode. If I do let the camera meter, the camera's initially biased -1 stop. But it's more consistent to use a handheld meter, get the base exposure, then tweak it after a sample shot. Then it's set unless you change your angle to the sun or the light changes. But quick spot checks deal with that issue. Couldn't do that with film, which is why I used to use a spot meter.
 
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If I do let the camera meter, the camera's initially biased -1 stop.

I've found on mine the in-camera meter works well, so well that buying a light meter would be a very hard sell. I just don't see how things could improve that much exposure-wise. Unless the scene has unusually high contrast I'll add +1/3 stop, sometimes more, on the exposure compensation to "shoot to the right" on the histogram. It's easy enough to darken down if needed but if it's burned out that part is gone.
 
This lens could be my 'gateway drug'.

Good glass was one of my main reasons for choosing m43. The Oly 45mm f1.8 (=FF 90mm) is my first prime for a digital body. The initial results exceed my expectations. So did my happy reaction to those results. It's one of the less expensive primes. If it makes me buy lenses 2X - 3X expensive, will that make it a gateway drug?

Samples which are more about learning the lens quality than doing something aesthetic:

x-20140604-00189-Juice-800.jpg

Primary illumination was a single florescent bulb.

x-20140603-00117-800.jpg

In the shade of a truck under the shade of a large carport.
 
Nice shots! Great lighting in the first one. I like the tone of the 2nd. Unless my eyes are getting worse, 2nd doesn't look like a B&W.
 
The Photographers' Corner

I've found on mine the in-camera meter works well, so well that buying a light meter would be a very hard sell. I just don't see how things could improve that much exposure-wise. Unless the scene has unusually high contrast I'll add +1/3 stop, sometimes more, on the exposure compensation to "shoot to the right" on the histogram. It's easy enough to darken down if needed but if it's burned out that part is gone.


A light meter allows me take an incident reading of light. A reflective meter - such as a cameras - cannot always balance out the readings to your desired exposure. It averages. A large light background, therefore, will affect the meters calculations and your main subject may appear too dark. That's where a spot meter (also reflective) comes in handy so you can choose which area is most important. An incident meter measures how much light is falling on the scene, before reflection - it's not affected by ratios of light light being reflected back towards the camera, and gives a better overall base reading: more compatible to what the eye actually sees. There are disadvantages, which were more prominent with film. Now you can tweak the exposure from the base, since you have an instant preview in the viewfinder. Also, one quick reading and your exposure is good as long as you're n that same light. No constantly checking the meter. In addition, the dial on my LunaProF shows all the possible shutter/aperture combinations to achieve the ensure metered. Very convenient.

Using VPS I always overexposed one stop, for a thicker emulsion on the developed film. Opposite digital. To be sure, though, one always did film tests to see how a particular shutter/meter/film batch worked on conjunction. So even using the cameras meter, I generally underexposed 1 stop.i just prefer an incident reading, and I've had the meter for almost 30 years. If I didn't have it, I might not buy one.

I prefer nice dark shadows, so I don't 'expose to the right'. I expose to the get the exposure as close to the image I have in mind as possible. The only pure white I like to see is in small highlights. Easy enough to create small clean highlights using levels. But, as you say, too far to the right hazards burned out areas one can't recover.
 
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Good glass was one of my main reasons for choosing m43. The Oly 45mm f1.8 (=FF 90mm) is my first prime for a digital body. The initial results exceed my expectations. So did my happy reaction to those results. It's one of the less expensive primes. If it makes me buy lenses 2X - 3X expensive, will that make it a gateway drug?

Samples which are more about learning the lens quality than doing something aesthetic:

View attachment 19201

Primary illumination was a single florescent bulb.

View attachment 19202

In the shade of a truck under the shade of a large carport.


Nice images.
 
Does anyone else print and hang photos in the house? With the recent acquisition of a mat cutter I'm going to start framing and hanging more photos in the house (with DW's approval of course). I've done a couple by just getting and 8x10 frame and filling that, and one she liked so much she paid a frame shop to frame.

Anyway, here are two that made the first round using the mat cutter. The Martinsburg roundhouse is a local landmark and there are lots of other photos of it online.
 

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