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Old 06-29-2017, 03:32 PM   #1981
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Most recent "avoided" purchase was for a new washing machine. We found water on the floor under and beside the washing machine and noticed it was happening every time we did a load of laundry so decided a new washing machine was in order. I selected the make and model of a new machine and arranged for it to be delivered Tuesday morning.

On the Sunday night we disconnected the power and water to the washing machine, and discovered that it was the tap, not the machine that was leaking.

We saved over $700 by buying a new washer for the tap, instead of a new washing machine.
So our washing machine has gone on gentle cycle for a few weeks now, previously about 2 years ago I fixed the agitator but this time that is not the issue. It's about 17 years old.

So we just bought a new one, bigger, top load and it was only $384.
At first I was going to buy it online and have it delivered, but they wanted $194 for delivery

So I drove the 3 miles, and we slid it in the back of the van. I have a dolly so getting into the house and down to the basement took time but I kept saying I'm saving $194

So now DW is doing all the laundry as everyone knows as soon as I go to switch washers, the tap handle will break or start leaking and I'll be making 2 more trips to the store to get parts..
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:39 PM   #1982
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Not really a repair, unless you consider landscaping improvement a repair.
We used to have the most beautiful tree on the block, until the emerald ash bore came around.
I cut down the tree, since companies wanted to charge me $1200.
I left a stump about 8 feet tall to dry as I was thinking of making a bench like I saw in Waikiki.
About 2 months ago some guy stopped by and offered to cut off my stump for only $150.

So a couple of days ago I cut off my stump, and realized the bench thing was not going to work so I sliced it up and gave away the small pieces to a new neighbor for burning.

Now I need to borrow an axe to split the big pieces
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:40 PM   #1983
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So I drove the 3 miles, and we slid it in the back of the van. I have a dolly so getting into the house and down to the basement took time but I kept saying I'm saving $194
When I got divorced in 1983 and sold the house I took the washer and dryer since they were only four years old. But I found out why the washer and dryer usually convey with the house. The dryer wasn't so bad, just bulky, but the washing machine was a bear to carry.

When we moved to WV I left the old Maytags in the house. Should have kept them, they're probably still running fine.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:51 PM   #1984
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I would start here (photo attached), so you can go right to the wall and left covering a large amount of the entire space.
I thought the reason they said to start on a wall was because you could only go one direction (the planks click together) http://www.mannington.com/Flash/lock...PlankImage.png
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Old 06-29-2017, 04:02 PM   #1985
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When I got divorced in 1983 and sold the house I took the washer and dryer since they were only four years old. But I found out why the washer and dryer usually convey with the house. The dryer wasn't so bad, just bulky, but the washing machine was a bear to carry.

.....
Washers are really heavy because they put a weight, often a block of cement in the bottom to help it stay in one place when on the spin cycle.

If you are junking a washer, it makes it a lot lighter to first take out the cement block. Not worth the hassle if just moving a washer of course as it was not designed to allow easy removal.
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Old 06-29-2017, 04:16 PM   #1986
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I thought the reason they said to start on a wall was because you could only go one direction (the planks click together) http://www.mannington.com/Flash/lock...PlankImage.png
Right, it has been many years since I did this, my thinking was they wanted you to start on the longest wall, so that it starts off straight/even as an uneven finish will be most noticeable on the longest wall, as the board tapers from full width to 1 inch wide.

So with that in mind, I'll change my answer to begin on the right hand wall in the room at the top of the diagram (living room/dining room ?).
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Old 06-29-2017, 04:36 PM   #1987
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Right, it has been many years since I did this, my thinking was they wanted you to start on the longest wall, so that it starts off straight/even as an uneven finish will be most noticeable on the longest wall, as the board tapers from full width to 1 inch wide.
Ah, well, there aren't too many long walls in this arrangement to see how crooked my layout was, hehe!
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So with that in mind, I'll change my answer to begin on the right hand wall in the room at the top of the diagram (living room/dining room ?).
That room has the kitchen table...informal eating (99% of our eating) happens there. Thanks for the advice; sounds like a reasonable choice. Still going to have that super long row from your earlier post, as opposed to laying rows perpendicular to that.

They say you snap a chalk line, then measure back to your starting wall. So I'll snap a chalk line on that super-long row of your first post, then measure back to that starting wall and snap another line to line-up my first row. Like any project like this, that first row is critical. But since this isn't glued-down, there might be a bit of forgiveness.
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:09 PM   #1988
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They stay start on the longest wall. There IS no longest wall! Seems like no matter where I start, I'll need to start in more than one place and meet up. Luckily, it's a floating thing, so I think I'll be able to slide it around.

Anybody ever done anything like this? Where would you start?
I've done about 1000sq-ft of click together engineering hardwood floor in my house which looks similar to what you're using. I would probably work off the far left wall, from your photo the left boarder looks to be the same from top to bottom at the transition areas. You also might want to consider using t-molding between the rooms. That would make it easier and as I recall with my floating floor the manufacturer had limits on the length of the floor before t-molding was needed, don't recall what that was since it wasn't an issue for me. You will have a lot of rip cuts, it may help to have a table saw available.
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:06 PM   #1989
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I always thought you should lay the long joints facing the main window, or the main entrance to a room. That way you don't see all the undulations from the click joints. if you really want a chore, run them on a 45 degree diagonal.
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:18 PM   #1990
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Our TV went out. The LED backlight died. I'm in the middle of the repair. I checked the power supply and it was good. I have disassembled the screen to get to the LED strips. Verified that one LED in one strip was shorted and another LED in another was open. the rest were still good. The power supply detected the fault and shut the voltage down. A full set of LED strips are scheduled to be delivered by 10:30 tomorrow. A full set so that they will all have an equal life left in them. Then the reassembly takes place. For a few hours of work and $80, I will have saved $500+. The biggest win is that DW won't have to learn another new TV and remote.
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:55 PM   #1991
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You also might want to consider using t-molding between the rooms. That would make it easier and as I recall with my floating floor the manufacturer had limits on the length of the floor before t-molding was needed, don't recall what that was since it wasn't an issue for me.
Thanks for the t-moulding warning...It's 30 feet max, so I'm ok. And as to the cutting, this stuff, you just score it with the utility knife and it breaks...no sawing!

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if you really want a chore, run them on a 45 degree diagonal.
Aaagh! No! Don't let DW hear you say that.

I'll make sure to take a few pictures so you all can see the result.
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:29 PM   #1992
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Our TV went out. The LED backlight died. I'm in the middle of the repair. I checked the power supply and it was good. I have disassembled the screen to get to the LED strips. Verified that one LED in one strip was shorted and another LED in another was open. the rest were still good. The power supply detected the fault and shut the voltage down. A full set of LED strips are scheduled to be delivered by 10:30 tomorrow. A full set so that they will all have an equal life left in them. Then the reassembly takes place. For a few hours of work and $80, I will have saved $500+. The biggest win is that DW won't have to learn another new TV and remote.
I'm always impressed by folks who can fix electronic stuff.

Do you have any photos to post ?
I've never seen the inside of a tv without a tube in it.

How did you know that one LED in one strip was shorted and another LED in another was open. ??
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:35 PM   #1993
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Here is a funny thing, now that it is solved.

I turned the AC lower as it was getting hot, but noticed after 10 minutes it didn't come on.
So I turned the furnace thermostat switch to Run from auto , but again nothing happened.
I checked and double checked the breakers and they were fine.
So now I'm thinking, darn furnace is the issue and since the fan is not running, the AC is not getting any signal to go on.

So I open the furnace, but everything looks fine (but really dirty) and years ago I replaced the motor, but now I couldn't see any issues on the circuit board by visual inspection.

So I put the furnace together and thought well it is 20 yrs old, so maybe time for a new one.....

Then I notice the switch down by the floor beside the stairs is down, and wonder, did I bump it with the new washer going down the stairs ??
I flip the switch up and the furnace fan starts running, and the AC turns on..
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Old 06-30-2017, 02:50 PM   #1994
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I'm always impressed by folks who can fix electronic stuff.

Do you have any photos to post ?
I've never seen the inside of a tv without a tube in it.

How did you know that one LED in one strip was shorted and another LED in another was open. ??
No pics yet. Unfortunately, I received the LED strips and they were "USED" removed from another set. !!!!!!! I sent them back. It will be another week before I get replacements. They will be used strips too, but at least the seller identified them as such. Honesty means a lot to me.

This is my first LED TV I've had open this deep. My last TV was a DLP. I've been into that one a few times. A DLP TV also has no tube. It works instead, on the colored smoke and mirror principle. Really! I've been in many CRT sets. I once worked for a short time as an Manufacturing Engineering tech for a TV mfgr. Back when TV's were still made in the USA. Been in electronics in one form or another all my adult life.

As for how I determined if they were shorted or open. Each strip has 5 LEDs, There were 12 strips. I applied a current limited voltage from a power supply. Actually, an old plug in the wall power supply, affectionately called a wall wart. All LEDs in a strip were wired in series, so if one does not conduct, none of the lights will light. I had one strip that did not light. The other strip lit but only 4 LEDs lit. The one that was dark must have been shorted for the other 4 to light. The remaining 10 strips lit up all the lights.

If I remember to take pics when things are going back together, I will post them for you.
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Old 07-02-2017, 04:35 PM   #1995
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'Fixed' my Honda Odyssey this morning after breaking it yesterday. Drained the battery and had to jump start it but it was very, very happy afterwards. Ran and drove fine but several warning lights illuminated - check engine, LDW, FCW, and VSA. Was just imagining the impending cost. Restarting it didn't help. The web suggested that a fusible link was possibly blown. I opened the fuse box and pried out the appropriate bar. No apparent issue. Put it back in and restarted the car... et voila! Fixed!! Hallelujah! I suspect that just disconnecting the battery and forcing the computer to reset might have worked too.

I so long for the days of 'simple' vehicles... as I await my Model 3!
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:24 PM   #1996
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My boat quit running in early May. After some youtube research, I figured out that my problem was probably carburetor related. So I took it apart, cleaned it, reinstalled, and now the boat runs.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:20 PM   #1997
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My boat quit running in early May. After some youtube research, I figured out that my problem was probably carburetor related. So I took it apart, cleaned it, reinstalled, and now the boat runs.
When a device contains springs or spring-like things, my failure rate sky-rockets.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:00 PM   #1998
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When a device contains springs or spring-like things, my failure rate sky-rockets.
That is why the engineers put all those extra, unneeded parts in devices like carburetors. I just keep them in a box after I've reassembled the device.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:56 PM   #1999
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That is why the engineers put all those extra, unneeded parts in devices like carburetors. I just keep them in a box after I've reassembled the device.
I had one of the last OEM carbs on a Dodge minivan with a Mitsubishi 4 cylinder. That thing had more little channels, bypasses, linkages, valves, springs, hoses, rings, etc than I could believe. Lots of it was to reduce emissions or improve mileage in some way, but it was more intricate than a clock with 10 dials.

On the other hand, I have an airplane powered by a VW engine, and it has a VERY simple carb. It's really more of a "calibrated leak." It has no venturi or float bowl. As the slide throttle is opened to allow more air in, a tapered needle is withdrawn from an orifice, which allows more fuel to dribble into the intake airflow. Mixture is controlled with a tiny valve upstream of the orifice, effectively reducing the fuel pressure behind the needle. They are a bit finicky to set up, and they seldom have a perfectly stoichiometric fuel mix, but they work darn well, almost never never ice up (no carb throat/pressure drop to cause icing).
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:11 PM   #2000
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I have been fighting with the Hot Tub for a few weeks. An error code came on and heat would shut off. Recycling power brought it back. Sometimes for 2 days and sometimes only 10 minutes. With summer, it wasn't losing heat very quickly and the jets still worked. I tried everything I found on the internet with no long term success.

I finally gave up on Friday and called the place I got it from for service. They no longer carry the brand, so I wasn't sure what I would be told. They said that I was on the list and they would call to schedule an appointment the following week. Within half an hour they called back and said the repair team was right up the street from me and could be at the house in 15 min.

So within an hour I went from calling for service to having the problem diagnosed and repair underway. Happily tubbing this holiday! ...still don't have the bill yet and don't expect it to be cheap. :O ...but we desperately needed the tub and I am happy to have the problem found and fixed.
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