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Old 07-07-2017, 04:31 PM   #2001
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Not sure if this qualifies as a repair... more of a repair avoidance or workaround. The power windows in the backseat of our 2001 Suburban haven't worked in a while. The repair estimate was way too high to justify the once or twice per year that we actually roll them down. But lately they have started falling when I hit a bump, sometimes quite violently. At first it was just one, but now both at random times. It's easy enough to just physically pull them back up after stopping, but today I decided to "fix" the problem.

I removed the door panels and used some plastic tie wraps to secure them in the up position by looping it around the mechanism that slides up and down the rails. Then I decided the tie wraps might not be strong enough and might wear against the metal edges, so I added some steel wire. I also disconnected the wire harness from the motor and also from the up/down switch.

While the panels were off, I thought about actually fixing them. Both motors *seem* to work fine, but the whole cable system is a mess and beyond repair. The two regulators would have been about $100. But after watching a YouTube video, it looked like a pretty big job just to get the old system out and the new one in. Plus I wasn't really sure about the motors. Too much time and money when we don't really even use the rear windows. So they are now locked in the up position.
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Old 07-08-2017, 08:10 AM   #2002
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Not sure if this qualifies as a repair... more of a repair avoidance or workaround. ... Too much time and money when we don't really even use the rear windows. So they are now locked in the up position.
Hah! I did a similar 'repair' to my old Volvo. The driver side rear window got stuck down, and it took some work to finally get it up in place (grabbing from both sides with the door open, finagling till it caught in the up position), and I really didn't want to take the door apart.

So once I had the window up and in place, I ran a bead of silicone black caulk around the perimeter, inside and out. It blended right in with the rubber molding/gasket. Let it sit overnight with painters tape keeping it in place, just in case. Then unplugged the connector to the switch.

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Old 07-08-2017, 08:57 AM   #2003
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Hah! I did a similar 'repair' to my old Volvo. The driver side rear window got stuck down, and it took some work to finally get it up in place (grabbing from both sides with the door open, finagling till it caught in the up position), and I really didn't want to take the door apart.

So once I had the window up and in place, I ran a bead of silicone black caulk around the perimeter, inside and out. It blended right in with the rubber molding/gasket. Let it sit overnight with painters tape keeping it in place, just in case. Then unplugged the connector to the switch.

-ERD50
No bailing wire?? At least Corbra9777 used some bailing wire!
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Old 07-08-2017, 12:13 PM   #2004
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Hah! I did a similar 'repair' to my old Volvo. The driver side rear window got stuck down, and it took some work to finally get it up in place (grabbing from both sides with the door open, finagling till it caught in the up position), and I really didn't want to take the door apart.

So once I had the window up and in place, I ran a bead of silicone black caulk around the perimeter, inside and out. It blended right in with the rubber molding/gasket. Let it sit overnight with painters tape keeping it in place, just in case. Then unplugged the connector to the switch.

-ERD50
Far better than having it stuck down in a rainstorm. Still, a bit inconvenient at the Taco Bell drivethrough (you probably wouldn't be caught dead there--I just go there for the cutesy sayings on the sauce packs). Also, when my window has been inop, I think I noticed the security folks at the USAF base discretely move a hand to their sidearm when I opened the door at the base gate.

If one ends up in a river without the ability to lower the window, what's the best way out? The door can't be opened until the water covers it. Still, one is probably no worse off with "glued-up" windows than electric ones at that point.
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Old 07-10-2017, 02:37 PM   #2005
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Replaced both torsion springs on our 16' by 7' garage overhead door. Of the original two springs, the first one lasted only 6 years, I only replaced the one that broke then. The other original spring lasted ~23 years, then it broke, never heard it go. Got a good life out of that one!

This time, I upgraded springs to the next-size-larger wire diameter, with the corresponding increase in length to stay at the original force. This adds around 50% to the expected spring cycle life, going from 15k to 22k cycles.

Requires planning and unwavering concentration to do it without expensive paramedics
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Old 07-10-2017, 03:00 PM   #2006
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Far better than having it stuck down in a rainstorm. Still, a bit inconvenient at the Taco Bell drivethrough ...
Oh, this was driver side, but the rear window. Seems odd it broke, I hardly ever raised/lowered it. If it were the driver's window, I would have fixed it, or used that as the motivation to buy a new car (had planned on it for a while).

My LBYM has limits

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Old 07-10-2017, 06:16 PM   #2007
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Replaced both torsion springs on our 16' by 7' garage overhead door. Of the original two springs, the first one lasted only 6 years, I only replaced the one that broke then. The other original spring lasted ~23 years, then it broke, never heard it go. Got a good life out of that one!

This time, I upgraded springs to the next-size-larger wire diameter, with the corresponding increase in length to stay at the original force. This adds around 50% to the expected spring cycle life, going from 15k to 22k cycles.

Requires planning and unwavering concentration to do it without expensive paramedics
Or at least the use of the correct spring tension loading/unloading bars instead of a handy screwdriver.
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Old 07-10-2017, 07:54 PM   #2008
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Replaced both torsion springs on our 16' by 7' garage overhead door. Of the original two springs, the first one lasted only 6 years, I only replaced the one that broke then. The other original spring lasted ~23 years, then it broke, never heard it go. Got a good life out of that one!

This time, I upgraded springs to the next-size-larger wire diameter, with the corresponding increase in length to stay at the original force. This adds around 50% to the expected spring cycle life, going from 15k to 22k cycles.

Requires planning and unwavering concentration to do it without expensive paramedics


LOL... or being a stupid kid!!! When I was 18 my dad made me change the spring on our garage door... at that time it did not cross my mind how dangerous it could be...
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Old 07-10-2017, 07:55 PM   #2009
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Not really a repair... but I just changed our air filter and cabin filter on the Honda Pilot...

Going to go into the pet peeve and complain about the shop torquing screws to an ungodly amount!!!
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:01 PM   #2010
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Not really repairs. Had to replace my mower deck belt on the riding mower. Also took cover off air conditioner condenser and vacuumed debris from the fins.
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Old 07-11-2017, 05:57 AM   #2011
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DW noticed a leak at the front of the washing machine last week. Naturally, this was after I did a load myself (happens once a year or so). I was resigned to get a new machine as the current is 10 yrs old and a web search says that's about what to expect these days. A web search on repair suggested pump or drain hose was the likely culprit. Watched a great youtube video, took the damn thing apart, determined the hose was bad, ordered a $26 part, replaced the hose, watched another video on how to get the cover back on, and, with about an hours labor, we are back in business. TG for Youtube.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:17 AM   #2012
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DW noticed a leak at the front of the washing machine last week. Naturally, this was after I did a load myself (happens once a year or so). I was resigned to get a new machine as the current is 10 yrs old and a web search says that's about what to expect these days. A web search on repair suggested pump or drain hose was the likely culprit. Watched a great youtube video, took the damn thing apart, determined the hose was bad, ordered a $26 part, replaced the hose, watched another video on how to get the cover back on, and, with about an hours labor, we are back in business. TG for Youtube.

$26 for a drain hose - ouch..... seems very overpriced.

Still cheaper than a repairman...
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:34 AM   #2013
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Replaced both torsion springs on our 16' by 7' garage overhead door. Of the original two springs, the first one lasted only 6 years, I only replaced the one that broke then. The other original spring lasted ~23 years, then it broke, never heard it go. Got a good life out of that one!

This time, I upgraded springs to the next-size-larger wire diameter, with the corresponding increase in length to stay at the original force. This adds around 50% to the expected spring cycle life, going from 15k to 22k cycles.

Requires planning and unwavering concentration to do it without expensive paramedics
Next size up is a great idea. The smaller springs rated for fewer cycles are what the garage door companies put in because they want to come back every few years. When I did it, everyone said I'd be maimed of not killed. Pushaw! It was no problem with the right tools and, like you say concentration.

I'll throw in my repair. I plug-in my 1987 ice maker when I'm summer brewing. The re-circulation motor on it had seized-up over the winter (again after again after again...every season). This time, though, it wasn't just a matter of taking it apart and giving the shaft a quick twist with the pliers. Both bearings wouldn't rotate and the armature was rubbing due to rust. I wish I'd taken a picture of it when I had it apart....it was (is) a mess. There's a bearing on the top and bottom of part number "6" that I wrestled free with the help of some liquid wrench. But now I'm ready to chill!!
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Old 07-11-2017, 10:17 AM   #2014
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OK... getting the new HVAC system in today....

The first problem we come across.... the thing is so BIG that it will not fit through my gate!!! We looked at taking it through the garage and through the regular door that is on the other side.... still it is too big.... They are looking at removing a section of fence close to where it is going to go...


Second problem... they said the new pad would not fit between the two sprinkler heads.... yes, the old owner had put sprinkler heads right up against the old AC.... I said I thought they were on the old system as I had never seen them work before.... but NOOOOO, it was on a working section... so had to run to Home Depot to pick up a short pipe and a cap to cap it off.... and that is TWO heads.... and they are so close together that the new pad will not go down!!! So, we are going to put the new pad on the old pad so it will clear the plugs....

Will update if anything else goes wrong!!!
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:22 PM   #2015
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We just had a new roof put on this past week. Tired of fixing leaks and picking up shingles and nails after a storm. Old roof was only 16 years old and many of my neighbors have been keeping roofers busy this past year. Hopefully this will be the last roof I need.
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:33 AM   #2016
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Got my brakes to pass inspection, so I am postponing the much-feared rear brake shoe replacement until next year! Yay!
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:08 PM   #2017
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Got my brakes to pass inspection, so I am postponing the much-feared rear brake shoe replacement until next year! Yay!
Hey John, having good brakes is important. I mean brake linings are not that expensive....
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:50 PM   #2018
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Hey John, having good brakes is important. I mean brake linings are not that expensive....
True, brake linings are cheap. But there's more than enough for one more year of my low mileage driving. I like postponing the job though because they are rear brakes, not the easy front disc type. I tried doing rear brakes once before and it was a total disaster. I've been paying a mechanic to do the rear brakes since then, but now might be my chance to redeem myself, but not until they are a bit lower. Plenty of other stuff to do.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:17 PM   #2019
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True, brake linings are cheap. But there's more than enough for one more year of my low mileage driving. I like postponing the job though because they are rear brakes, not the easy front disc type. I tried doing rear brakes once before and it was a total disaster. I've been paying a mechanic to do the rear brakes since then, but now might be my chance to redeem myself, but not until they are a bit lower. Plenty of other stuff to do.

I assume you mean drum brakes as opposed to rear brakes.... some old cars had drum on the front and back... then front disks became the rage and now 4 wheel disks...


Drum are not that bad IF you have the correct tools... and a little experience... I did not and would curse every time at those springs... and also cut some part of my body....


I am old enough now to pay to have all of the car work done for me... it is not any fun to do any of it and I do not try and save when it comes to this... last time I did a brake job has to be close to 20 years ago.... it was disks and it was pretty easy... but I did not turn the drums so it was a quick off with calipers, squeeze them open, new pads and back on....
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:25 PM   #2020
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Got my brakes to pass inspection, so I am postponing the much-feared rear brake shoe replacement until next year! Yay!
Glad to hear that didn't STOP you ...
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