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Old 06-11-2018, 12:11 PM   #2241
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That's a great tip. Never would've thought of that solution but I'm wondering what problems you've had. I decided to splurge on pre wound string cartridges and that solved most of my issues, but I only occasionally ever had a jammed spool. Think I'll spray that stuff all over the head and shield!
The pre-wound always work well. I think it is because they are wound by machine and the line is placed precisely without any binding.

That's impossible to do when you hand wind a spool. I think my major problem was always binding inside the spool. The line would gain tension as it spins, and pull down into the center of spindle, perhaps by some looser line along side of it. When it tries to relax and come out, it is bound between other lines. All a product of hand-winding.

Regardless, a spray of dry lube on any cam, gear or hitch in your setup can't hurt the process.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:56 PM   #2242
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Arrrggghhh!! Lucky it was still drivable. I found a huge mouse nest under the air intake (plenum?) on my 88 Trans Am while checking out a bucking/hesitation problem a few months ago (still diagnosing it). Something had chewed 2 of the injector wires, but not through, just exposed the copper. Haven't found any other chewing yet, but who knows. I now leave a light on 24 hours a day, and keep the hood propped open (inside a garage) since rodents like something over them to hide them, apparently. Also plopped a whole pack of Bounce drier sheets on top of plenum, since they hate Bounce odor, supposedly. No more nests since.
A friend who lives out in the country had a 10-year-old Prius that mice got into and chewed up the wiring behind the instrument panel. I believe they wrote off the car.

I'm a little skeptical about the dryer sheets (although I've tucked them into little-used cars myself). I've still found little mouse jellybeans lying about, although chewed-up wiring hasn't been a problem.

Another diy mouse repellent I've heard about is Irish Spring soap. I gave that one up after I found gnaw marks on the soap bar.

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On the subject of recent repair, I found out my fuel pressure was only 26 psi, and spec is 39 psi. Talked to a few real mechanics and they disagree with one another about whether 26 psi is low enough to be a factor in the bucking/hesitation. I was just about ready to throw in the towel and take it to a mechanic to diagnose. But now am back on the trail, will have the awkward task of jacking up passenger side, getting under car and somehow remove wires and spark plugs to check for fouled plug caused by possible intermittently sticking fuel injector.
Good old Detroit iron. I changed the spark plugs on my V6 Ranger recently and had to remove the RF wheel and a piece of fender liner to get at the right bank of plugs. Even then it was an exercise in acrobatics.

Have you looked at your fuel pressure regulator? Pull the vacuum hose off and sniff it for a gasoline leak. Leak=bad regulator. I'd also suspect the regulator if pressure didn't change as I revved the car to 2.5k rpm.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:24 PM   #2243
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..............
I'm a little skeptical about the dryer sheets (although I've tucked them into little-used cars myself). I've still found little mouse jellybeans lying about, although chewed-up wiring hasn't been a problem.

Another diy mouse repellent I've heard about is Irish Spring soap. I gave that one up after I found gnaw marks on the soap bar............

I had mouse problem in my camper. I put in mothballs, dryer sheets and Irish Spring soap. The made a nest of the dryer sheets on top of the moth balls and ate the soap.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:07 PM   #2244
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I am lucky enough to be able to get pure gasoline. When I couldnít, I religiously used Sta-Bil gas additive. I also ran my small engines dry at the end of the season. Storing a small engine with ethanol gas for an off season will almost certainly cause a problem with the carburetor. If youíre inclined, you can typically open up the carb and use a very small wire to open the jet back up, but the older the carburetor is, the more likely youíll be also replacing gaskets and valves (rebuilding the carb).
I keep hearing this, but I've never used Stabil, and I never (there, I said "never") had a fuel problem ever, in any mower I've owned. We've probably had ethanol gas longer than anyone, living n 'corn country'.

I'd usually start it up a few times over the winter, but not always.

I can understand old engines that didn't have gaskets that could hold up to it, but I just don't see any problems in the stuff I've owned (going back to the early 80's).

The mower I bought a couple years ago has an EPA sticker on the gas tank, I think it is more sealed up than old designs, but I don't think it's anything fancy like cars have.

-ERD50
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:32 AM   #2245
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I keep hearing this, but I've never used Stabil, and I never (there, I said "never&quot had a fuel problem ever, in any mower I've owned. We've probably had ethanol gas longer than anyone, living n 'corn country'.

I'd usually start it up a few times over the winter, but not always.

I can understand old engines that didn't have gaskets that could hold up to it, but I just don't see any problems in the stuff I've owned (going back to the early 80's).

The mower I bought a couple years ago has an EPA sticker on the gas tank, I think it is more sealed up than old designs, but I don't think it's anything fancy like cars have.

-ERD50
I get about 8 years of mowing out of one carburetor gasket, in my Briggs and Stratton Weed Eater engine, using ethanol gas. Takes about an hour or two for me to replace the old gasket. I think it 'corrodes' somehow in a certain spot, then the rpms start cycling up and down as it lets too much air in.
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:30 AM   #2246
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...snippet....Have you looked at your fuel pressure regulator? Pull the vacuum hose off and sniff it for a gasoline leak. Leak=bad regulator. I'd also suspect the regulator if pressure didn't change as I revved the car to 2.5k rpm. ...end snippet.... I have pulled off the vac hose. No gas leak, no gas smell. No change to rpm or pressure. Have not pinched off return line yet to see if pressure rises. Afraid to do internal damage to return line (at the rubber hose portion). The pressure stays the same (26 psi) at any rpm. I don't think the regulator is stuck partially open, since the pressure does not drop right away when the engine is shut off, but I may be missing something, so I might pinch it off and see what happens.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:04 AM   #2247
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I have zero experience with GM cars, but I would expect fuel pressure to rise when the engine is revved. Unless the fuel pump can manage only 26 psi ... pinching off the return fuel line should determine that. I generally use a small pair of snipe-nose Vise Grips for that job -- I wrap the jaws with several layers of duct tape to pad the jaws and prevent damage to the hose.

A rapid drop in fuel pressure would be caused by a bad fuel pump check valve. The fuel pressure regulator would play no part in that, barring something obvious like an external fuel leak.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:14 AM   #2248
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I get about 8 years of mowing out of one carburetor gasket, in my Briggs and Stratton Weed Eater engine, using ethanol gas. Takes about an hour or two for me to replace the old gasket. I think it 'corrodes' somehow in a certain spot, then the rpms start cycling up and down as it lets too much air in.
I have an old chainsaw, it's about 40 yrs old.
I'd always drain the gas and run it dry and put oil in at the end of season. Never had an issue.
Then about 2 years ago , it would barely run, turned out that the fuel line, a plastic tube that goes into the gas tank had rotted away.
I blame ethanol gas for that, as it was fine the first many decades, until I started using ethanol.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:24 AM   #2249
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..... on my 88 Trans Am while checking out a bucking/hesitation problem a few months ago (still diagnosing it)......

Faulty plug wire(s) can cause these symptoms and is easy to overlook in the hunt.
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:12 PM   #2250
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The switch on my wood lathe quit switching on-off. Sawdust gets into the switch. Bought a new switch and installed. It went bad in a week. The good thing is that the lathe is always on- it wonít turn off. So I bought a power cord, light switch, and receptacle. Created a switched outlet and plugged the lathe into it. Now I just flip the light switch to turn the lathe on and off.
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:01 PM   #2251
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On the subject of ethanol in gasoline, I recently pulled my 2-stroke Mantis-type cultivator out of storage to prep the garden. I hadn't used it in a couple of years, and quickly discovered that all the clear vinyl tubing from the fuel tank to the engine had deteriorated into a leaking mess. I can't blame it with certainty on the ethanol -- maybe mice got to them!
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:06 PM   #2252
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On the subject of ethanol in gasoline, I recently pulled my 2-stroke Mantis-type cultivator out of storage to prep the garden. I hadn't used it in a couple of years, and quickly discovered that all the clear vinyl tubing from the fuel tank to the engine had deteriorated into a leaking mess. I can't blame it with certainty on the ethanol -- maybe mice got to them!
Yes, that's exactly what my chainsaw above suffered from, except I do blame ethanol, no way mice go inside the gas tank on mine as the cap was on but slightly loose.
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:30 PM   #2253
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Yes, that's exactly what my chainsaw above suffered from, except I do blame ethanol, no way mice go inside the gas tank on mine as the cap was on but slightly loose.
I was kidding about the mice.
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:40 PM   #2254
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I was kidding about the mice.
Missed that, better put down the chainsaw and Ethanol for another day
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Old 06-12-2018, 04:40 PM   #2255
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On the subject of ethanol in gasoline, I recently pulled my 2-stroke Mantis-type cultivator out of storage to prep the garden. I hadn't used it in a couple of years, and quickly discovered that all the clear vinyl tubing from the fuel tank to the engine had deteriorated into a leaking mess. I can't blame it with certainty on the ethanol -- maybe mice got to them!
Since switching to ethanol gas, my 25 y.o. mantis has had the rubber pump button dissolve every other year (3 times now). However, I was recently given a Sun Joe Electric Tiller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V6IEVXM...a-314230551240) for an early father's day gift. It works like a champ on my small vegetable garden, and as I don't foresee doing any major tilling in the future, I think I'll retire the old girl (ie. sell it on Craigslist). No more gas problems.
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:10 PM   #2256
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The switch on my wood lathe quit switching on-off. Sawdust gets into the switch. Bought a new switch and installed. It went bad in a week. The good thing is that the lathe is always on- it won’t turn off. So I bought a power cord, light switch, and receptacle. Created a switched outlet and plugged the lathe into it. Now I just flip the light switch to turn the lathe on and off.
I use a foot switch on my (metal) lathe. Acts as a safety, too, if I keel over the lathe stops. https://www.harborfreight.com/moment...tch-96619.html
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:14 PM   #2257
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Since switching to ethanol gas, my 25 y.o. mantis has had the rubber pump button dissolve every other year (3 times now). However, I was recently given a Sun Joe Electric Tiller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V6IEVXM...a-314230551240) for an early father's day gift. It works like a champ on my small vegetable garden, and as I don't foresee doing any major tilling in the future, I think I'll retire the old girl (ie. sell it on Craigslist). No more gas problems.
I picked up a Mantis at Goodwill and all that was wrong with it was the primer pump and the fuel lines which were all brittle. A kit including a new carb was only about $10 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It sold fast on Craigslist.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:13 PM   #2258
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I use a foot switch on my (metal) lathe. Acts as a safety, too, if I keel over the lathe stops. https://www.harborfreight.com/moment...tch-96619.html


Whoa - I like that! Didnít know such a foot switch existed. Thanks for posting!
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:13 AM   #2259
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After a few months of procrastinating, shut the water off to the house, in order to dis-assemble a freezeproof water valve. The thing had not allowed water to come out of it, even when fully opened.


Removing the long stem of the valve, found the sealing washer deformed, took several good tugs to actually extract the stem from the valve body.


A trip to the local hardware store (about a mile away) and $3.87 later had a blister pack of various sizes of rubber washers. Unscrew the deformed washer, slect one that fit, mount washer, tighten screw. Install stem into valve body, shut valve.


Turn on water main, test repaired valve. Works! Elapsed time start to finish 45 mintes or so. No idea what a plumber would have charged. And no waiting around for the plumber. I am sure I can take a lady friend out for dinner on the savings. Surely a more charming time.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:56 AM   #2260
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U.S. & Canada stations that sell pure gasoline (no ethanol):

https://www.pure-gas.org
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