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Balanced a fan
Old 07-21-2018, 04:48 PM   #2321
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Balanced a fan

I'm still catching up on repairs to our new-to-us home. One thing that drove me nuts was an attic ventilation fan that was out of balance and made a booming noise inside the house.

To start, I drilled a hole in the tip of each blade, then numbered the blades one through five. I screwed a sheet metal screw into each blade and ran the fan, one at a time, to see which position was optimal. It turned out that # three and four were about the same, so I put a screw into each. That was very close so I added a washer to each, one at a time. It turned out that # three needed the washer. Purrs now.
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:01 PM   #2322
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1) I am replacing a couple of outside wood shutters that had rotted out. I bought replacement shutters in unfisnished pine and I am having a ball priming and painting them - NOT! They are louvered shutters...

2) while I love my new compact hatchback car, the road noise was unacceptably high inside the cabin at high speed. So I installed sound deadening material on the firewall, inside the wheel wells, on the cabin floor, under the back seat, and all over the cargo area. I reduced the noise by 10dB inside the cabin at highway speed.
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:11 PM   #2323
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.......... I installed sound deadening material on the firewall, inside the wheel well, on the cabin floor, under the back seat, and all over the cargo area. I reduced the noise by 10dB inside the cabin at highway speed.
Good job! In my prior life I designed sound packages which was always the first thing thrifted as we oscillated between "customer satisfaction" and "cost containment". It was frustrating, but job security.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:38 AM   #2324
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Originally Posted by travelover View Post
I'm still catching up on repairs to our new-to-us home. One thing that drove me nuts was an attic ventilation fan that was out of balance and made a booming noise inside the house.

To start, I drilled a hole in the tip of each blade, then numbered the blades one through five. I screwed a sheet metal screw into each blade and ran the fan, one at a time, to see which position was optimal. It turned out that # three and four were about the same, so I put a screw into each. That was very close so I added a washer to each, one at a time. It turned out that # three needed the washer. Purrs now.


Nice technique. I usually just tape a penny to each blade to find the bad actor but I like your method better as a long term solution.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:58 AM   #2325
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1)
2) while I love my new compact hatchback car, the road noise was unacceptably high inside the cabin at high speed. So I installed sound deadening material on the firewall, inside the wheel wells, on the cabin floor, under the back seat, and all over the cargo area. I reduced the noise by 10dB inside the cabin at highway speed.

When I updated the stereo in my pickup I installed sound deadening material in all the door panels and the rear wall of the cab, made a huge difference.
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:49 AM   #2326
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When I updated the stereo in my pickup I installed sound deadening material in all the door panels and the rear wall of the cab, made a huge difference.
Even though it was not my primary goal, it did make a big difference in my stereoís sound quality. Thankfully, there was alreading some sound deadening material inside the door panels, so I did not have to mess with that. The rest was carpet on bare metal.
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:42 AM   #2327
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Even though it was not my primary goal, it did make a big difference in my stereo’s sound quality. Thankfully, there was alreading some sound deadening material inside the door panels, so I did not have to mess with that. The rest was carpet on bare metal.
Dollar Tree sells 18" carpet squares that have a heavy dense backing on the carpet for a buck. These laid over the trunk or cargo area help a lot to suppress road noise.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:59 AM   #2328
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John - I did this job years ago on my third generation Camaro Iroc Z. Please don't hack up the car by cutting an access hole. I hate seeing that. Use the time you would spend cutting a hole to do the job right.

This is a relatively straight forward job. Nothing complex, just time consuming. If you have a pneumatic impact wrench that will help. To drop the exhaust, I just disconnected the pipe to rear of the catalytic converter and removed the rest of the system in one piece, out the passenger's side up and over the right rear brake assembly. To drop the axle, it's all just removing nuts and bolts, and supporting with jack stands. I removed the clip supporting the brake line but didn't need disconnect the flexible line from the hard line.

The job isn't that bad once you drop the exhaust and rear axle. Once the axle and exhaust are dropped, and the fuel lines are disconnected, you have to snake the tank and filler tube out keeping in mind that the filler tube is rigidly attached to the tank. Be sure to remove as much gas as possible from the tank before beginning the job. Just take your time and you will be fine. One other note: This is a good time to replace the rear coil springs if they are weak (and they probably are if they are original) since they will basically just fall out once the axle is dropped. Good luck and holler if you have questions.
Update on the fuel pump saga. I decided to have a shop replace the fuel pump in my 88 GTA. So instead of the hassle, worry and stress of doing it myself I had the hassle, worry and stress of paying a professional to do it. And yes, there was stress with the shop, but there always seems to be, right? Which is why I like to do my own work. But this job just looked too big. Synopsis is that it cost $581 to have the new pump installed, the work appears to have been done properly, and no damage to car other than a new exhaust leak they caused, which I patched up myself. (The pipe where they caused a new leak was already fairly corroded, and I didn't want the drama of confronting them with it, and I didn't really trust them to fix it properly, anyway, and on and on and on. This scenario happens so often when you let someone else work on your car). I passed inspection with my own exhaust patch, so all good there. So.... I'm glad I had the work done. The car runs normally now, no more bogging, and..... I have a 2 year warranty on parts and LABOR.
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Old 08-08-2018, 01:39 PM   #2329
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Late last year we purchased a used 2010 Airstream Interstate Class B motorhome. We like the van and use it quite a bit. However, it has no warranty. We noticed the side windows were not properly located/centered in the body panels and this was causing other problems such as water leaks and the moveable portions of the windows did not close properly. So for less than $100 in parts and about 6 hours of elapsed time the windows were removed, gaskets replaced and windows reinstalled.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:20 PM   #2330
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This is one of those ultra-satisfying "repairs", one where my tenacity really paid off. This all started with a "financial review" with DW yesterday and agreement to burn some cash in the next 3 years on some home improvements, things that MUST be fixed before we sell. We have a large 4 season sunroom out back with 9 pairs of sliding glass doors. 5 or 6 of the panels (insulated, double pane panels) have "leaked" and are foggy and grey on the inside. So I had agreed to start looking into the cost of replacing them. On my Monday morning do-list was to call a few window and glass shops an see if I could get someone over for a quote. Set up 2 appts. for tomorrow.

Then the DIY'er in me kicks in and figures that those doors must come out somehow, so I Google/Youtube it. Of course there is a video. Grab a drill and screwdriver bit and in less than 10 mins, I have both the slider, and it's neighbor the "fixed" panel out (those things weigh a TON!).

Since I have to run errands anyway, I slip the fogged up one in the truck and go out to visit two glass/door shops.

First one quotes $350 per door, if I bring them in and let them install the glass. I ask about the glass, they tell me they are made "in Maine", have to be ordered and it takes 1-2 weeks. They carefully measure the door and glass and give me a printed quote.

Second one is in the city, not so great neighborhood, but the website was real professional and they advertised about fixing fogged windows by changing out the glass panel. The guy comes out to the truck measures it, does some numbers on his calculator and says $479 per panel, plus $25 to change out the glass. I ask where the panels come from and he says that they have to be ordered from a place "in Maine". I ask him if there are any cheaper alternatives, like just buying a whole new framed panel, and he says "I don't know, see if you can find a label on it and look it up."


There was a label on the bottom so when I got home I took pick of it with my phone. No name of a manufacturer, but lots of part/model numbers. I Google one, nothing, then I see "5500B", so I Google it, comes back with some hits of 5500 series vinyl patio slider. Keep clicking and hit a link to a "72x80 fixed patio door". At Home Depot. Hit that link, my local HD has one in stock.



And it's $125



Can't find accurate measurements anywhere on the site. But the HD is 8 minutes from my house, so door still in truck, I head out. In the store it is boxed and wrapped in plastic and the guy in windows and doors really doesn't want me to unpackage the only one they have. So I measure best I can and take a chance and buy it. For $125, maybe I can take the glass out and put it in my frame if I need to.

Don't you know the thing slipped right in. 5 mins. In fact it appears to be exactly what I already have in every aspect. AND, they have the sliding one for $135. I could replace all 18 panels in that room for a tad over $2k!


Two screws to lower the slider rollers down and a grunt and out it comes. 2 more screws on the fixed one, and hefty lift and it swings out too. And the HD ones are made by Andersen.



My only challenge now if figuring out how to dispose of the old, foggy ones appropriately.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:46 PM   #2331
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Well, decided to replace the ground fault plug that is out front that or low voltage lights are plugged into....


Went OK except for when taking out one of the screws that held in the plug it snapped in two half way out... I could not get a drill bit on the dang thing so I just screwed in the top one and the plastic box cover with lid... working good so far...


But DANG, mosquitoes were hanging in the bushes... even spraying for them did not get rid of them all...
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:47 PM   #2332
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The 20 yr old builder grade bathroom exhaust fan has gotten progressively noisier and now sounds like itíll fly apart. I knew someone that had a fire result from one of these overheating. I tried putting a shim and some lube on the motor shaft and bearing but it is still not running smoothly and I donít want to shim it too tightly. I can order replacement parts for $50. I can get a whole new unit for $20 and just use the parts I need or get an upgrade kit for $40. The Broan website info contradicts the info on the fan data plate. Iím gonna try the upgrade since it is supposed to be quieter and comes with a new grill.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:42 PM   #2333
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The 20 yr old builder grade bathroom exhaust fan has gotten progressively noisier and now sounds like itíll fly apart. I knew someone that had a fire result from one of these overheating. I tried putting a shim and some lube on the motor shaft and bearing but it is still not running smoothly and I donít want to shim it too tightly. I can order replacement parts for $50. I can get a whole new unit for $20 and just use the parts I need or get an upgrade kit for $40. The Broan website info contradicts the info on the fan data plate. Iím gonna try the upgrade since it is supposed to be quieter and comes with a new grill.

I would go for one of the new super quiet ones... but then we do not have one in the master bath and do not use it in the other bathrooms...
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:18 PM   #2334
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I am embarrassed-after putting up with the pipes outside knocking when the drip irrigation comes on, I bought a water hammer gadget. I installed it, and it seemed to do the job for a while, but then quit.

I went on line and found a better one, and when it arrived, I read the directions. It specifically said it should be the same size as the pipe. Well the only one my local hardware store had at the time was a 1/2 inch one, so I got a reducer and installed it. When the new one came, which is for 3/4 inch pipe, I immediately tossed the small one and its reducer.

The new one is about 4 times the size of the old one, and works great!.
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:27 PM   #2335
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I would go for one of the new super quiet ones... but then we do not have one in the master bath and do not use it in the other bathrooms...


We went for the upgrade which is supposed to be just a bit quieter than the original. In this location we wanted some ďmasking noiseĒ. The vendor website said some users were not aware the super quiet fan was running so it gets left on for hours. It was super easy to upgrade. DW thinks itís all brand new. Brownie points!
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:48 PM   #2336
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Swapped out a no longer working single-cylinder Kwikset deadbolt.

"Smart-key" feature is nice...was very easy to program the lock to the old key.
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:32 PM   #2337
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We went for the upgrade which is supposed to be just a bit quieter than the original. In this location we wanted some ďmasking noiseĒ. The vendor website said some users were not aware the super quiet fan was running so it gets left on for hours. It was super easy to upgrade. DW thinks itís all brand new. Brownie points!
If remembering to turn off is an issue, do what we did. Our switch is a timer with auto shut off.
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Old 09-30-2018, 03:39 PM   #2338
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The bolt holding one of the pulleys on the riding mower deck sheared off last week, and a spacer went with it into the grass. I decided to replace the two blades since they’re over 10 years old and pretty beat up. When I got the new blades sharpened and was putting them on the OTHER pulley broke and its bearing fell out. After another trip across town I got it all back together and mowed this afternoon. Unfortunately they didn’t have the belt in stock so I’ll order that and replace it in the spring.

There’s always something.
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Old 09-30-2018, 04:28 PM   #2339
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The bolt holding one of the pulleys on the riding mower deck sheared off last week, and a spacer went with it into the grass. I decided to replace the two blades since theyíre over 10 years old and pretty beat up. When I got the new blades sharpened and was putting them on the OTHER pulley broke and its bearing fell out. After another trip across town I got it all back together and mowed this afternoon. Unfortunately they didnít have the belt in stock so Iíll order that and replace it in the spring.

Thereís always something.


At the risk of starting a flame session, what brand of mower is this?
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:38 PM   #2340
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A follow up to IIRC my post @2281, the dryer drum crack. Yes the epoxy did not hold.



The final fix was to drill several 1/8" diameter holes an inch or so away. A thin metal bar was welded in place with some metal bonding goo from NAPA. The goo penetrated the holes and seems to keep the thin metal bar in place.
The drum rotetion is releatively slow, thus no balance issues.

$5 or thereabouts for the goo, metal bar courtesy of my scrap bin.



It has now been several months and is holding and working well.
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