Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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My AC may have the same problem. The fan blows too weak. I don't trust my skill to replace the capacitor myself. The only factory authorized LG repair place near me doesn't do AC repairs "at the moment." I would have left it outside my door for them but they didn't even say that bringing it to them is an option. So now I'm deciding whether to call a non-authorized place. I probably will.

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think a start capacitor problem exhibits as a "weak fan". I'm pretty sure a bad start capacitor means the fan (or compressor) just doesn't start at all, it 'stalls out', doesn't get that initial torque surge to get moving (it's more complicated than that, having to do with the initial phase relationship between the stator and the rotor, but that's all you need to know).

Describe the problem in more detail (air is cold, just not much circulation, air is warm, noises from compressor, etc), we may be able to help pinpoint it.

-ERD50
 
I live in California with PG&E as my electric power company. They shut off power when the weather gets to certain conditions that could cause a wild fire if one of their lines is damaged from a downed tree, winds, etc. It's based on wind, humidity, air temps. I have a generator to run when those 'Public Safety Power Shutoff' events happen. We had one and of course, my generator wouldn't start. Upon inspection, I found wires chewed by a mouse. So I fixed the wires and fired up the generator. I also placed a sticky trap where the wires are so next time mousey gets his due. I'll run the generator now each month just to be sure it will start when needed.
 
Describe the problem in more detail (air is cold, just not much circulation, air is warm, noises from compressor, etc), we may be able to help pinpoint it.

-ERD50

Last time I tried it was the same as with 51notout. I turned on the AC and there was no fan movement until I nudged it, then it sped up, but there was no noise, so the compressor or whatever never turned on. In the experiment before that, I heard a noise but the noise stopped after a several seconds while the fan kept going. So maybe something failed that controls both the fan and something else, or maybe the fan AND the compressor failed.

I did a preliminary check of how old it is. It may be 14 years old. I thought it was more like 7. I guess it's time for a new one.
 
Correction: I think I had the temperature too high for the compressor to kick in. I lowered it this morning and it blows cool air after I nudge the fan. I'm going to vacuum the fan and continue using the AC even if I have to nudge the fan every time I turn it on. One section of the fan is pretty dirty.

Here's a video from last night. I'd like to get in there, safely, and clean everything really well. I'll look into it.

https://vimeo.com/431011861
 
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Correction: I think I had the temperature too high for the compressor to kick in. I lowered it this morning and it blows cool air after I nudge the fan. I'm going to vacuum the fan and continue using the AC even if I have to nudge the fan every time I turn it on. One section of the fan is pretty dirty.

OK, if the blower fan runs normally once nudged, then it probably is the start capacitor, though it might just need a good cleaning.

https://www.cleanairactheatingandac...rvice/how-can-a-bad-capacitor-affect-your-ac/

In an air conditioner, capacitors are connected to the three main motors: the compressor motor, the blower motor, and the outdoor fan motor. Each of these has a separate capacitor to start it up (the start capacitor) and to keep it running (the run capacitor).

It should be pretty easy to DIY replace, assuming the disassembly to get to it isn't too bad. Check the internet with the specific model.

-ERD50
 
My son bought a new refrigerator. This one came with an ice-maker and outside water dispenser. He had no water line going to the fridge. So I noticed the bat signal and drove over to his house. A couple of trips to the big box store and he has water and ice being produced in abundance. I drove home with a smile on my face knowing the city was safe once again.
 
Correction: I think I had the temperature too high for the compressor to kick in. I lowered it this morning and it blows cool air after I nudge the fan. I'm going to vacuum the fan and continue using the AC even if I have to nudge the fan every time I turn it on. One section of the fan is pretty dirty.

Here's a video from last night. I'd like to get in there, safely, and clean everything really well. I'll look into it.

When cleaning the fan, look along the axle of the fan, hairs often wrap themselves along those and twist around a lot.
Hopefully you can reach both sides of the fan if the axle goes right through.
 
I bet they could make them easier to clean. There aren't enough access panels in the world.

Once again the lack of an access panel made my life harder. I took off the sheet metal AC cover but that didn't help. I didn't see a way to get easy access to the fan shown in the previously posted video without bending or cutting the evaporator coil, and I'm not going to learn how cut and braze it. There was a plastic case around part of the fan that looked attached to the coil. An access panel on top of that case would have helped. I stuck my hand through the front with a sponge and cleaned each fin, rinsing the sponge frequently to minimize the dirt that falls to the bottom which I couldn't see.

I still need to nudge the fan to get it going. It seems to spin smoothly and takes a long time to stop once turned off so the axle is probably clean and the weight and wind resistance of the dirt is no longer a factor. Maybe I'll put a fan in front of the AC.

I'll also consider replacing the capacitor myself. The information I read on this reminds me of what I read about asbestos abatement, whether to tape wire nuts, whether to use a vapor barrier in bathroom walls, etc. People have different ideas about what's safe or safe enough.

I don't think I'd get my insulated handle screwdriver from China. Or the capacitor.
 
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I'll also consider replacing the capacitor myself. The information I read on this reminds me of what I read about asbestos abatement, whether to tape wire nuts, whether to use a vapor barrier in bathroom walls, etc. People have different ideas about what's safe or safe enough.

I don't think I'd get my insulated handle screwdriver from China. Or the capacitor.

You can up your safety by wearing rubber gloves.
 
The guy in the video, at 11 minutes 9 seconds, has a three step method of discharging a capacitor.I don't mind making or buying the capacitor discharge tool with the resistor to prevent damage from the spark or whatever, but he says to unplug the AC and then to connect a ground terminal, that's in the AC, to the capacitor. Is he assuming people are going to do something to ground the case properly? They way he says it, it doesn't even have to be grounded. Is his workbench grounded and he assumes everyone's is? And he says the capacitor could hold a lethal charge. Why is everyone trying to kill me?

 
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The guy in the video, at 11 minutes 9 seconds, has a three step method of discharging a capacitor.I don't mind making or buying the capacitor discharge tool with the resistor to prevent damage from the spark or whatever, but he says to unplug the AC and then to connect a ground terminal to the capacitor. Is he assuming people are going to do something to ground the case properly? They way he says it, it doesn't even have to be grounded. Is his workbench grounded and he assumes everyone's is? And he says the capacitor could hold a lethal charge. Why is everyone trying to kill me?

I dunno, but it seems he's way overthinking that. Eons ago when I was doing heating & A/C work we just disconnected the capacitor and shorted it with a screwdriver. And only for a second or two, never heard of the "5-second" rule.

And "lethal charge?" Bunk. Might give you a short shock, but I never heard of anyone dying from a capacitor used in anything household, especially a window A/C. Now, if you work in a power station I guess some of those might do it but I really have no idea.
 
I don't mind making or buying the capacitor discharge tool with the resistor to prevent damage from the spark

Another one of those "how could I be so stupid" moments...

Many moons ago I spent several years repairing microwave ovens. One of the first things we always did was discharge the capacitor before starting work. I did it the way I was shown, stick a screwdriver across the terminals and short it out. This gave off a loud pop and bright spark that never stopped scaring the daylights out of me even after several years.

Despite having a degree in Electronics, it never occurred to me to build a discharge tool, or that they were widely available to buy. Instead I stressed out every day having to endure that loud bang multiple times a day. If I hadn't read your post, I STILL wouldn't have thought such a tool existed. :) Thankfully, it has been a couple decades since I've had to deal with those, and hope to never see one again.
 
Just replaced the dishwasher door latch at my condo. Part cost about $40 but beats the check out of buying a new washer. YouTube is a wonderful thing. The video made it look easy and it was.
 
Originally Posted by Boho View Post
The guy in the video, at 11 minutes 9 seconds, has a three step method of discharging a capacitor.
I dunno, but it seems he's way overthinking that. Eons ago when I was doing heating & A/C work we just disconnected the capacitor and shorted it with a screwdriver. And only for a second or two, never heard of the "5-second" rule.

And "lethal charge?" Bunk. Might give you a short shock, but I never heard of anyone dying from a capacitor used in anything household, especially a window A/C. Now, if you work in a power station I guess some of those might do it but I really have no idea.

Agreed. Sure, you want to take precautions but there isn't any extreme danger here with just taking simple precautions. There isn't all that much energy stored in a starter capacitor.

It's connected to the AC line, odds are the voltage on it is less than 100V, unless it was disconnected right at the peak of the AC wave.

Just short it out to be sure, you'll be fine. Technically, a direct short might not be good for the capacitor. But since we are talking line voltage here, you could just discharge it through a standard 115V filament light bulb for a few seconds, that would 'gently' discharge it.

-ERD50
 
you could just discharge it through a standard 115V filament light bulb for a few seconds, that would 'gently' discharge it.

I read about the bulb method but the AC is 230 V. I didn't check the capacitor rating. Even if I used a resistor I'd also use a screwdriver because I wouldn't know if the resistor failed. Some commercial dischargers have indicator lights, but still I think I'd use a screwdriver. If the discharger's lights work on the discharger's capacitor or battery then I wouldn't trust it enough.

Actually, how would I know the composition or coating of the screwdriver? The more insulated the handle is, like if it's rated for come level of electrical insulation, the less conductive the tip may be. I think I'll get an insulated glove. That's all I know so far.
 
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..........Actually, how would I know the composition or coating of the screwdriver? The more insulated the handle is, like if it's rated for come level of electrical insulation, the less conductive the tip may be. I think I'll get an insulated glove. That's all I know so far.
You know it worked when you hear the CRACK!
 
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Actually, how would I know the composition or coating of the screwdriver? The more insulated the handle is, like if it's rated for come level of electrical insulation, the less conductive the tip may be. I think I'll get an insulated glove. That's all I know so far.

And wear rubber running shoes, and use only 1 hand, put your left hand in your pocket. :)
 
back in the day working as a parts guy at a car dealership. We use to charge up condensers used in distributors. Tech would come pick it up and get a little thrill.
 
A/C stopped around midnight last night. Didn’t sleep well in 80F house.

Took a look this morning and nudged the fan blade with a thin stick. The fan started up. That indicated that the start/run capacitor was failing. Stopped by the local supply company and picked a new one up for $25 including tax. Five minutes to disassemble and anther 5 to install and reassemble. Switched the fuses and outside breaker back on and it work like a charm. Even ran quieter.

Saved a call out fee and the time waiting. A productive day [emoji3]

Edit to add: I was careful to discharge the old capacitor as it can give a powerful shock. (Used a rubber handled screwdriver across the terminals. C to Fan and C to Herm)
A few weeks ago DW noticed the fan on the A/C wasn't spinning, and it was fine just an hour earlier. Iaid my hand on the fan motor and it was hot, so I flipped the breaker and reported "no prob, I have a spare capacitor". I swapped it out, and we were in business again. DW said "you're amazing". I said "I know" :LOL:
You know it worked when you hear the CRACK!
I've shorted many a cap, but never get the spark. Microwaves come with a diode now that bleeds the cap. I'm not sure where the electrons went on the A/C cap, but they haven't been numerous enough to spark (ime).
 
I considered a brand name class 00 insulating glove for $45.20 and one of the cheap no-name brands for about $20. I even considered wrapping the handle of the screwdriver with a household latex glove. But I think I'll get an $8 insulated screwdriver and tape something conductive to the tip.

Meanwhile, my desktop computer finally died after months of warnings about a possible CMOS battery issue, so I'm ordering the battery and screwdriver at the same time, after I open the AC again to confirm the capacitor type and that I can get to it.
 
How would I dispose of the capacitor if the protection mechanism kicked in and the terminals disconnected from the internals of the capacitor? My building uses a garbage compactor.
 
How would I dispose of the capacitor if the protection mechanism kicked in and the terminals disconnected from the internals of the capacitor? My building uses a garbage compactor.
It is not dangerous, just toss it.
 
I'm in the middle of an a/c repair on my Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter, so heavily into DiY work on German vehicles. I'm about 75% done with the fix and will add to this thread when I'm sure I've succeeded (otherwise, fuggedaboutit). :rolleyes:

HAHA!! I got the aircon working again in the Sprinter. The condenser sprung a leak and let all the refrigerant out. I bought a cheap vacuum pump (already had AC manifold and gauges), got a new condenser and did the swap. The only stumbling block I ran into was some galvanic corrosion that seized the low-side hose fitting to the condenser. In retrospect I should have simply bought a new hose, but instead I cranked out the condenser nipple with an impact wrench and spent an hour picking out the residual aluminum that remained stuck in the hose fitting.

It didn't chill quite as much as I would have liked at first, but I did a test of the engine cooling fan clutch and determined it was pretty weak. A new fan clutch got the cooler going as it should.

I'm really stoked that I did a successful AC job.
 
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