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Old 01-23-2019, 07:27 PM   #2441
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Last month my front bumper came loose when it tapped a snowbank in a parking lot up North when I was traveling. Went to a mom and pop repair shop. Charged me only $60 to attached it back together. Still good and honest people in this world.
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:47 PM   #2442
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I also installed an active anode device in place of the stock Mg sacrificial anode. I'm now hoping to get 20 years or more out of this WH.
I've never heard of active anode rods until reading your reply, so now I'm doing some research. They supposedly also help eliminate smelly well water (which I have), so maybe that's an option for me.

Thanks!!
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Old 01-23-2019, 09:57 PM   #2443
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:28 AM   #2444
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I've never heard of active anode rods until reading your reply, so now I'm doing some research. They supposedly also help eliminate smelly well water (which I have), so maybe that's an option for me.

Thanks!!
Sure, I hope it works for you (us). They are supposed to be >great< for getting rid of stinky water smell.
I bought this one, and it seems well made, installation was easy. I tried another brand in an electric water heater at my daughter's house, but I was less impressed with the build quality (plastic portion in the way of the socket so it was hard to get the unit seated, and it didn't have sufficient depth to allow it to thread into the tank while the top stayed above the outer sheet metal. I think it was designed before the insulation standards increased). So, I returned it and got this other style.



Hopefully, if you decide to go this route, you've got enough room above the WH to allow you to remove the long stock anode rod (it is easier to do this swap before moving the WH into position). I kept the stock rod--it will go back in if I have to return this water heater. . .



Anyway, I hope to not need another WH for a LONG time.



Good luck!
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:57 AM   #2445
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I was adjusting the temp of the GF's ancient countertop oven and the lever suddenly went slack. Now the oven is stuck on 300 degrees. Which is OK for cooking lots of different stuff. May leave it alone. Otherwise will remove 4 screws on the back and see what I find and hope I don't make it worse! I can see what looks like a long spring inside the area the lever goes into. Spring may have broken or come off. Or I could recycle it and buy a new one! Or just use one of her many crockpots instead. Lots of options.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:15 AM   #2446
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Picked up a GRR-Ripper push block for my table saw, the advanced model normally goes for $79 new, purchased a returned one on Amazon for $64. When I received it one of the brass screw inserts had a big black X marked across it with a sharpie, that didn't look promising. Sure enough when I attempted to install the screw in the insert it was stripped out. Sent an email to the vendor complaining about getting an item that was obviously damaged. They responded offering a 50% credit, could also have returned it for a refund. Used my tap and die set to re-thread the insert, now good as new. Took the 50% off offer, got the tool for $32.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:23 AM   #2447
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I've never heard of active anode rods until reading your reply, so now I'm doing some research. They supposedly also help eliminate smelly well water (which I have), so maybe that's an option for me.

Thanks!!
I replaced our WH a few years back. The smell came in a couple of weeks. I never had that smell before. I treated the water to kill the Iron Rust bacteria, and within another 3 weeks we had that smell again. Rheem recommended a special resistive anode. That worked for about 5-6 weeks before the smell came back. I then got a powered anode. several years later, still going strong.

In our case, the smell came from iron rust bacteria. Perfectly harmless to humans. They feed and multiply on the anode material. The old tank was about 27 years old and had no anode! The powered anodes are not cheap. A couple hun IIRC. but well worth it. (pardon the pun).
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:41 AM   #2448
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I installed this outlet. There's one on the other side of the wall, but there's a stud between that I had to drill through. Since the TP holder came off easily that gave me access. Took less than an hour.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:54 AM   #2449
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I hope that new outlet is on a GFCI protected circuit. Oh, and you have the outlet upside down. Typically the ground lead is toward the bottom. (my preference)
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:05 AM   #2450
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My HW tank sprung a leak last night...actually, very good timing as I'm leaving on a lengthy trip on Monday. I picked up a new Rheem 40 gallon (48 US) tank for $349...after tax and 2 SharkBite fittings, I have a brand new HW tank for about $435.

Local quotes run around $1200 - $1300 after tax so I saved about $800 for 2 hours of work.
This must be the season for leaky water heaters. I replaced one this week, did pretty much the same repair except that I went for a 50-gallon model.

Now all I have to do is get the 80-gallon dinosaur it replaced out of the basement.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:15 AM   #2451
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I replaced our WH a few years back. The smell came in a couple of weeks. I never had that smell before. I treated the water to kill the Iron Rust bacteria, and within another 3 weeks we had that smell again. Rheem recommended a special resistive anode. That worked for about 5-6 weeks before the smell came back. I then got a powered anode. several years later, still going strong.

In our case, the smell came from iron rust bacteria. Perfectly harmless to humans. They feed and multiply on the anode material. The old tank was about 27 years old and had no anode! The powered anodes are not cheap. A couple hun IIRC. but well worth it. (pardon the pun).
This is the one I'm getting...$135 Canadian, $104 in the US.:

https://www.amazon.com/Corro-Protec-...ered+anode+rod
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:28 AM   #2452
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This is the one I'm getting...$135 Canadian, $104 in the US.:

https://www.amazon.com/Corro-Protec-...ered+anode+rod
That's the one I didn't care for very much. If you have an electric water heater (with its thicker insulation), you may find that the distance between the threads on the anode and the metal hex top isn't long enough (you can't tighten the unit using the plastic hex portion that is higher up, it is just for show). The hole in the top of the sheet metal WH housing was too small to allow a standard socket to get in there and drive the anode down farther. The other unit I ended up buying didn't have this problem (it came with an extension that accommodated the thicker insulation on these electric water heaters). The other small difference was that, on the second unit I bought, the hex nut on top was the same standard size as the hex nut on the stock anode rod. The Corro-Protec hex top was a non-standard size. Not a big deal if you have a set of sockets that include the right size for both. Functionally, I couldn't say that one is better than the other.

Good luck. For less than $100, if it does the trick and the water heater lasts a long time, I'll be very happy.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:34 AM   #2453
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I looked at the Corro-Protect when I bought mine. I can't remember exactly why I chose the one I did. Maybe at the time I felt the tank protection would be a bit better being the full height of the tank. Below is the one I got. It has an LED that indicates the wall wart is still functioning. The LED itself is not worth the extra $100 IMO.

If the Corro-Protect works to eliminate the odor then all the best. Only time will tell how well it works as an anode to protect the tank itself. Like I said earlier, the previous HW tank had NO anode and no odor issues.

Powered anode/water heaters with hex anodes
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:35 AM   #2454
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I hope that new outlet is on a GFCI protected circuit. Oh, and you have the outlet upside down. Typically the ground lead is toward the bottom. (my preference)
Lots of folks (and some codes) now want the ground on top. The thinking is, if something thin drops down there by gravity and gets between the plug and the receptacle, it's safer if it makes contact with the ground lug rather than bridging only between the hot and neutral.
It still looks "upside down" to me, too.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:37 AM   #2455
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That's the one I didn't care for very much. If you have an electric water heater (with its thicker insulation), you may find that the distance between the threads on the anode and the metal hex top isn't long enough (you can't tighten the unit using the plastic hex portion that is higher up, it is just for show). The hole in the top of the sheet metal WH housing was too small to allow a standard socket to get in there and drive the anode down farther. The other unit I ended up buying didn't have this problem (it came with an extension that accommodated the thicker insulation on these electric water heaters). The other small difference was that the hex nut on top was the same standard size as the hex nut on the stock anode rod--not a big deal if you have a set of sockets that include the right size for both. Functionally, I couldn't say that one is better than the other.

Good luck. For less than $100, if it does the trick and the water heater lasts a long time, I'll be very happy.
I'll do more investigating before committing. I did poke a wire through the insulation and it's close to 3" (guessing) to the top of the anode, but I do have access to deep enough sockets.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:41 AM   #2456
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I replaced our WH a few years back. The smell came in a couple of weeks. I never had that smell before. I treated the water to kill the Iron Rust bacteria, and within another 3 weeks we had that smell again. Rheem recommended a special resistive anode. That worked for about 5-6 weeks before the smell came back. I then got a powered anode. several years later, still going strong.

In our case, the smell came from iron rust bacteria. Perfectly harmless to humans. They feed and multiply on the anode material. The old tank was about 27 years old and had no anode! The powered anodes are not cheap. A couple hun IIRC. but well worth it. (pardon the pun).
Those bacteria are pretty hard to defeat -- they often thrive in a well with hard, iron-rich water. Check the inside of your toilet tank. Is it lined with a slimy, rusty coating?

We finally got most of the little beasties out of our water system with an iron filter. They're surely in our well yet, but not so much in our plumbing.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:43 AM   #2457
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I do know of the various arguments for both up or down. TMK, the NEC does not specify one way or the other. My preference is ground down as a power cord normally drapes down and its weight could work the plug out leaving the ground the last connection to be disconnected. It is only a preference. Too bad there is no tongue-in-cheek emoji because my comment was meant as a friendly poke,

But I was serious about the GFCI in case you were wondering. I do know of one child who was shocked when he missed the bowl peeing. Fortunately he was OK afterwards.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:46 AM   #2458
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I looked at the Corro-Protect when I bought mine. I can't remember exactly why I chose the one I did. Maybe at the time I felt the tank protection would be a bit better being the full height of the tank. Below is the one I got. It has an LED that indicates the wall wart is still functioning. The LED itself is not worth the extra $100 IMO.
I was tempted by that one, the long dangling anode wire looked like it might give better protection to lower parts of the tank. I couldn't find any literature or studies to make an informed decision, so I went with the cheaper, stubby one for half the price. The one I got does have a "power going to the unit" LED, and does have enough circuitry inside to make it plausible that it is actually doing the assessment and monitoring/feedback that they claim it does


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If the Corro-Protect works to eliminate the odor then all the best. Only time will tell how well it works as an anode to protect the tank itself. Like I said earlier, the previous HW tank had NO anode and no odor issues.
It almost certainly had one at one time. Removing the magnesium anode rod and replacing it with an aluminum one is a common fix for stinky water. If that doesn't work, the plumber may remove the anode rod entirely--and the stinky water stops. It can work fine until the tank rusts through, which can be a long or short interval depending on a lot of factors. If the client calls the plumber back to replace the now-leaky water heater, it is a win-win for the plumber.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:55 AM   #2459
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I'll do more investigating before committing. I did poke a wire through the insulation and it's close to 3" (guessing) to the top of the anode, but I do have access to deep enough sockets.
You may want to pry off the plastic cap over the anode rod and see if a socket of the right size will fit through the hole. The Corro-Protec hex head pretty much fills the hole, I don't think even a thin wall socket would have fit.

If you want the Corro-Protec unit, at the worst you could get some tin snips and make the sheet metal hole bigger. Getting the different active anode was easier for me, and I was worried about the warranty implications if I "modified" the water heater.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:00 AM   #2460
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It surely had one when new. All I can say is that there was no anode in it when I replaced the tank. It was about 27 yrs old when I replaced it on general principles due to age. we had owned it for 10 years at that time and it had no anode for at least that time.

And yes the toilet tanks get that brown/blackish slime. I clean them out periodically. Some seem to grow it faster than others. There is no smell from the cold tap water or hot water now. Even if I heat up the cold water, there is no smell.

We do have an RO filter for all our drinking water.
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