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Old 09-03-2019, 09:44 AM   #2641
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Originally Posted by John Galt III View Post
sengsational, is that $7156 estimate for just the outdoor heat pump unit, installed? Is the interior unit (air handler) compatible with the refrigerant you will be using in the new exterior heat pump?
The estimate is for the condenser, evaporator and gas furnace. The only existing things that will be reused will be the line set and the ductwork.


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Looks great. Yep, I went this route when I replaced the AC in the house we are re-doing for DD (2 ton, replaced evap coil too. I had done the furnace myself a few months earlier). I went crazy in re-doing the ductwork, otherwise it would have been a piece of cake.

You know this, but for others: When the AC guy comes to do his part of the install (brazing he lines, evacuation of the system, and fill with refrigerant), the critical bits are to 1) assure he/she is back-purging the copper line with nitrogen as he does the brazing (else the inside of the copper gets a coating that will eventually come loose and clog something/damage the compressor) and 2) Assure he/she evacuates the system thoroughly before adding the refrigerant. For most installations, it should be pulled down to the 500 micron level, then left there for a period of time to be sure all is well. This can take a long time, and some tech's are tempted to take shortcuts, so it pays to be specific about it in advance when discussing the work you want done. The guy who did DD's house charged me about $300 IIRC, and I did all grunt work (equipment in place, power hooked up, etc). The only thing I'd do different next time is to include a sight glass in the line so it is easier to diagnose a problem. I'll be doing the AC on our own home in a few months, and I'll probably handle things the same way. It saves a lot of money AND you know it is done right.
Thanks for that insight. I saw your posts earlier about your experience with this process and hoped that you'd provide me some of the possible "gotchas". I did have most of those steps on my list (which I pulled from a detailed estimate that I got a long time ago). But I didn't have the longer wait after pulling the vacuum. I'll add that in. And knowing what you paid is helpful too. Thank you.


Just delivered a few minutes ago. Here's what it looks like. Delivery included having the guy roll the pallet jack right into the garage. Looks like I'm the proud owner of not only the HVAC thing, but also a pallet.
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:10 PM   #2642
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In process of replacing gaskets of Country Comfort wood stove. 8 feet of 3/4" for the door seals and 10 feet of 3/8" of the stuff for the transparent ceramic windows.

One of the 10 ceramic window's clamping screws would not budge. Even after soaking overninght with liquid wrench. Ended up breaking the head off. Thus had to drill through the old threaded body, use bottoming tap to cut new thread and find a suitable 10-24 screw. Thus dragging out the job.
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:15 PM   #2643
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I installed a new boiler... Saved about $3,000 for 16 hours of work. A boiler guy would have done it in about 5 hours.
So, an experienced guy would make $600/hr. You made only $187.5/hr. Still not shabby.
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:51 PM   #2644
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The only existing things that will be reused will be the line set and the ductwork.
Yep, I wasn't able to reuse the line set since we were transitioning from R22 to R410a. The lubricants in the R22 system play havoc with R410A. Some contractors re-use the line anyway, or put some goo on that is supposed to neutralize the old lube. The price of the new line set looked like a good investment in our case.
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:41 AM   #2645
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My 2002 F150 window switch stopped working. Rolled the window down to pay my way out of the airport garage, it wouldn't roll back up. The switch is very easy to access and replace. I got home late in the evening, took a quick look on Amazon and saw it was $15 and would deliver the next day. But I got to thinking, I can just knock this out and go to Autozone and get one since they are just up the road. Autozone price = $118!! I laughed and said, this is why Amazon is putting all of you out of business. No thanks. I mean WTH, its not like it was solid state technology. Its a rocker switch wrapped up in pretty plastic that matches the truck!!!

The next day my $15 switch showed up and a few minutes later it was installed. Working great again.
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:11 AM   #2646
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Yep, I wasn't able to reuse the line set since we were transitioning from R22 to R410a. The lubricants in the R22 system play havoc with R410A. Some contractors re-use the line anyway, or put some goo on that is supposed to neutralize the old lube. The price of the new line set looked like a good investment in our case.
I'm also going from R22 to R410a. The quotes I got a few years ago, and the current one, they all said the current line set would be fine (but maybe because they didn't want to try pulling the new line set down the wall). One guy said if I wanted or needed new lines, they'd be running down the outside of the building (inside some kind of pipe/channel thing). Several of the quotes include flushing the lines with a solvent. I plan on going that route. Knowing the flush is super important, I'll make sure that gets done, and done right.
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:22 AM   #2647
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Originally Posted by Jeffman52 View Post
My 2002 F150 window switch stopped working. Rolled the window down to pay my way out of the airport garage, it wouldn't roll back up. The switch is very easy to access and replace. I got home late in the evening, took a quick look on Amazon and saw it was $15 and would deliver the next day. But I got to thinking, I can just knock this out and go to Autozone and get one since they are just up the road. Autozone price = $118!! I laughed and said, this is why Amazon is putting all of you out of business. No thanks. I mean WTH, its not like it was solid state technology. Its a rocker switch wrapped up in pretty plastic that matches the truck!!!

The next day my $15 switch showed up and a few minutes later it was installed. Working great again.
I have the same generation F150 (1998 Lariat). If your power mirrors are a bit wonky and don't seem to adjust to full travel, get a new switch from Amazon as the factory switch gets funny after 10 years or so. Simple fix like a window switch.
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:25 AM   #2648
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I'm also going from R22 to R410a. The quotes I got a few years ago, and the current one, they all said the current line set would be fine (but maybe because they didn't want to try pulling the new line set down the wall). One guy said if I wanted or needed new lines, they'd be running down the outside of the building (inside some kind of pipe/channel thing). Several of the quotes include flushing the lines with a solvent. I plan on going that route. Knowing the flush is super important, I'll make sure that gets done, and done right.
I changed out my R22 unit on the 2nd floor to R410a. The line set ran down an interior wall to the underfloor crawl space and then out to the condenser. The existing line set was flushed out with a solvent made for this purpose. No problems thus far for 5+ years.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:22 PM   #2649
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I have the same generation F150 (1998 Lariat). If your power mirrors are a bit wonky and don't seem to adjust to full travel, get a new switch from Amazon as the factory switch gets funny after 10 years or so. Simple fix like a window switch.
My power mirrors are more than a bit wonky LOL. I have them set manually with distinct instructions not to touch them!!! Thanks for the idea. I might give that a try and see if that takes care of it.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:27 PM   #2650
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I changed out my R22 unit on the 2nd floor to R410a. The line set ran down an interior wall to the underfloor crawl space and then out to the condenser. The existing line set was flushed out with a solvent made for this purpose. No problems thus far for 5+ years.
Similar experience here. I didn't do the work, an installer did, but they flushed the existing lines and all still seems fine a bit over 6 years later.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:34 PM   #2651
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My power mirrors are more than a bit wonky LOL. I have them set manually with distinct instructions not to touch them!!! Thanks for the idea. I might give that a try and see if that takes care of it.
This fixed mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

717f+OVy+lL._SL1192_.jpg
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Once again acumen with electronic devices proven!
Old 09-06-2019, 02:44 PM   #2652
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Once again acumen with electronic devices proven!

Just a few moments ago, DW complained that the downstairs TV was locked up on one channel and refused to change to a different one despite repeated presses on the appropriate button(s).

Giving up, she came to me and explained the problem. Confirming the problem, I pressed the appropriate buttons to no avail. Strongly suspecting either a glitch or a gremlin, I deemed that the most likely path to eliminating either one was to starve them into submission, and pulled the plugs on both the TV and the cable box.

Then I left to go use the bathroom.

Upon returning I restored power to both the cable box and the TV, and waited a few moments for the cable box to connect to whatever it connects to when it wakes up. When both were turned back on, all worked normally as they should.

Therefore, I conclude that using the bathroom will cure a malfunctioning TV.*




*Of course, after 31 years of marriage, I also know that DW has a propensity to press more than one button on a device at the same time, thus confusing said device into a catatonic state. So there is that possibility....
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Old 09-06-2019, 03:09 PM   #2653
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Just a few moments ago, DW complained that the downstairs TV was locked up on one channel and refused to change to a different one despite repeated presses on the appropriate button(s).

Giving up, she came to me and explained the problem. Confirming the problem, I pressed the appropriate buttons to no avail. Strongly suspecting either a glitch or a gremlin, I deemed that the most likely path to eliminating either one was to starve them into submission, and pulled the plugs on both the TV and the cable box.

Then I left to go use the bathroom.

Upon returning I restored power to both the cable box and the TV, and waited a few moments for the cable box to connect to whatever it connects to when it wakes up. When both were turned back on, all worked normally as they should.

Therefore, I conclude that using the bathroom will cure a malfunctioning TV.*




*Of course, after 31 years of marriage, I also know that DW has a propensity to press more than one button on a device at the same time, thus confusing said device into a catatonic state. So there is that possibility....
PCs, phones, or anything with a computer built in; first rule of thumb is to reboot. Second rule of thumb is to tell your customer that you had to pull the internal skyhook mother module and refresh it prior to reinstalling it and prioritizing the mehoosh mod.
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Old 09-06-2019, 03:10 PM   #2654
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Second rule of thumb is to tell your customer that you had to pull the internal skyhook mother module and refresh it prior to reinstalling it and prioritizing the mehoosh mod.

Ooh, I like that one much better. I'll be sure to try that next time!
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:31 AM   #2655
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Replaced the line from the valve to the fill mechanism on the toilet.

Picked up a Fluidmaster stainless braided line this time since the previous generic plastic replacement failed at the crimp.

Might want to take a few minutes to check those lines running from the valves in your home to the toilets and sink faucets...
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Old 09-07-2019, 03:31 PM   #2656
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I changed out my R22 unit on the 2nd floor to R410a. The line set ran down an interior wall to the underfloor crawl space and then out to the condenser. The existing line set was flushed out with a solvent made for this purpose. No problems thus far for 5+ years.

If replacing the line set was a big pain in the neck, I would have tried the solvent magic goop. But in my last install the new lineset was easy to put in place, and the cost for the parts was $150.

My line of thinking:

- Will the goo work for me? Like most installations, there are dips in both lines, so some of the old lube and the new solvent/neutralizer, etc is almost surely going to remain in the line. IIRC, there was a rash of Copeland compressor failures a few years ago blamed on these flush kits, and I did not want to get into a blame game if that happened to me.
- The existing copper lines had been in place for decades. I know copper water lines do erode at places when water velocities are high, and the gas/entrained droplets in the refrigerant loop can move very quickly. Also, copper does work harden due to vibration, and the vibration can be readily felt when the old system was running (I think slugs of liquid refrigerant moving about).

Anyway, the new lines weren't expensive, the guy would be there with his nitrogen, vacuum pump, refrigerant, torch, etc and ready to do the connections, so no increased labor cost to use the new copper. The insulation on the suction side was generous and new, not like the insulation on the old set that was brittle and cracked. The cost/hassle factor of a failure of the lines was also a big factor in my decision.

Again--there's nothing absolute about my rationale. If the situation were different, I might have attempted to re-use the line set.

FWIW: I have been known to go a bit overboard in the quest for increased reliability. For example, when I replace our home AC in a few months, I'll be going with a SEER 14 unit rather than a higher efficiency one. This eliminates the need for the thermal expansion valve (TXV) that is a must-have in the 16+ SEER installlations. We only cool for a few months each year, and the benefit of going to a higher SEER unit is not huge. In my system there will be only one moving part in the refrigerant loop (the compressor). Eliminating the TXV removes a second moving mechanical part/potential failure point in the AC refigerant loop. Since I can't service anything in that refrigerant loop myself, and getting someone else to do it is expensive and a hassle, I'm keen to keep it simple and reliable.
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:58 PM   #2657
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Replaced the line from the valve to the fill mechanism on the toilet.

Picked up a Fluidmaster stainless braided line this time since the previous generic plastic replacement failed at the crimp.

Might want to take a few minutes to check those lines running from the valves in your home to the toilets and sink faucets...

Just performed this same repair last week.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:21 PM   #2658
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My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.
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Old 09-08-2019, 01:19 AM   #2659
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I'm also going from R22 to R410a. The quotes I got a few years ago, and the current one, they all said the current line set would be fine (but maybe because they didn't want to try pulling the new line set down the wall). One guy said if I wanted or needed new lines, they'd be running down the outside of the building (inside some kind of pipe/channel thing). Several of the quotes include flushing the lines with a solvent. I plan on going that route. Knowing the flush is super important, I'll make sure that gets done, and done right.
I'm also thinking about attempting a mostly DIY replacement. It can't by that hard to flush some old oil out of the lines and seem a waste to not reuse some perfectly good copper. I want to downsize the heat & air a little. The trick is to identify a smaller system that fits the same size tubing.
I've installed a energy monitor thermostat that's enabled me monitor the run times on some of the hottest & coldest days and I think downsizing will get me better humidity control. Still researching it but I read of some solder/brazing materials that are lower temperature and may make the nitrogen purge unnecessary.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:13 AM   #2660
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My niece's home got totally flooded when the toilet water line broke and they were away for a few days. Total disaster!

They had to gut the whole house, and used the occasion to remodel it while living in a rental for 6 months.
This is why I decided to not do handyman work for pay. It is my nightmare that I should make some mistake (or even not make it, but get it blamed on me) on an upstairs toilet and have this happen.
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