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Old 06-03-2020, 10:55 AM   #2961
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I couldn't answer you question. This cement cap is on the top of the chimney around the ceramic flue. I haven't use the fireplace in years. I live in North Florida and there just are not many cold days. The cement would not get hot anyway since it is not in contact with the rising smoke.

The painter finished in about 30 min. on the roof. With the initial inspection and then getting the paint maybe about 2 hours total. He only wanted $85 and I still have about 2/3 gallon of the paint left for another coat in maybe 5 years. I gave him a check for $100 to buy him lunch. Nobody would have come out that quickly to inspect and then do the job right then. He is also the best painter I have ever worked with. Anybody else would have charged more.


Cheers!
It seems like a good call
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Old 06-03-2020, 11:07 AM   #2962
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Originally Posted by Badger View Post
...It appears that the cement cap on the top of the chimney from 1955 was the source of the problem.
I can't/won't climb a ladder up there to fix it anymore. It is frustrating that I have become a little too compromised and arthritic to take the chance. So a painter that has helped me before is up on the roof now with elastomeric paint. I called him yesterday, he came out an hour ago, and immediately went out and bought the paint to take care of it before the rains come....
A few years ago I completely rebuilt the top of my brick chimney, on an 8 in 12 roof. The cap was cracked every which way, and the top row of bricks had broke their mortar bond with the course below. The cap was mortar, so pretty weak for the big area required on our big chimney.
I hammer drilled and broke out the whole cap, removed bricks, cleaned them, chiseled away old mortar. The clay flue tiles were in good shape. I laid rebar with sheet metal on top as a base to span the area, then used concrete and a bonder to make a new cap, used sand mix for the top layer, all wet poured. I used a strip of foam plastic to provide an expansion gap all around between the top flue tile and the concrete cap I poured.
After a week, I pulled out the foam, and used the orange hi-temp silicone caulk to fill that gap. That allowed flue tile and cap to be mechanically isolated, but elastomerically sealed. It is a tall chimney!
Then I putty-knifed and brushed 2 layers of Chimney RX Brushable Crown Repair from edge of flue caulk to out and over and down the outside of the top layer of bricks.
Then I measured and ordered up a big stainless steel screened peaked chimney vent cap from a place in North Carolina, it was top quality. Attaching it to the bricks was a job, as our bricks are solid, some with stones inside, used quite a few masonry bits. That was the hardest part of job, oddly enough. Using my hammer drill was too much for me to balance on the down slope side of chimney, heavy drill way over my head, used a regular battery drill, no hammer action instead. Wow the force I had to exert way overhead on a horizontal!
But no leaks at all any more, have belt, suspenders, another belt, another set of suspenders, it's fixed for a long time!
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Old 06-03-2020, 11:17 AM   #2963
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............Then I measured and ordered up a big stainless steel screened peaked chimney vent cap from a place in North Carolina, it was top quality. ...........
I think this is the robust way to fix it. It seems like using a mortar cap is just a hope and a prayer method as with all the heat and exposure, the mortar always cracks. A cap acts more like flashing where you are not trying to seal it, but rather taking advantage of gravity to guide the water where you want it to go.
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Replaced Timing Belt and Water Pump on the Jetta TDI
Old 06-04-2020, 10:20 PM   #2964
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Replaced Timing Belt and Water Pump on the Jetta TDI

I replaced the timing belt and related parts on my '04 Jetta TDI with almost 200,000 miles on it. This is the second timing belt I replaced on this car. I also replaced all parts in the timing belt's path (tensioner, water pump, and roller). I replaced the thermostat since the coolant was drained. The serpentine belt and its tensioner also were replaced. I used the factory timing tools and a home made engine support brace because the right side engine mount had to be removed because it bolts to the engine block, inside of the timing belt's path. I also rethreaded the aluminum engine mount threads, using a TimeSert steel thread sleeve kit. I replaced the single use (torque-to-yield) engine mount fasteners.

Replaced the transaxle pendulum mount too.

When done, I experienced the first no start out of the many timing belts I replaced in various cars over the years. I scanned the engine control unit with my professional European automotive scan tool. Fault code recorded was no signal from the engine speed sensor (I did move the engine speed sensor harness out of the way to remove the coolant flange to replace the thermostat). I removed the sensor with its intergral 2-foot wiring loom and checked it electrically with my volt ohm meter. Two of the three sensor wires were shorted together. I slit the sensor's cable sheath with a razor blade and found that the insulation on the wires had completely disinigrated. I repaired the sensor wiring using wire from a junk wiring harness and soldered in the replacement wires and used heat shrink tubing on the solder connections. I added a new outer sheath from a salvaged appliance power cord.

Car started right away after installing the repaired sensor.
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Old 06-05-2020, 08:02 AM   #2965
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I, too, put 2 stainless steel caps on my twin chimney, in order to keep chimney swallows from nesting every spring. They were horrific, every time we went into living room or basement, they would be all aflutter, chirping, squawking raising a ruckus.

All was well until a bolt of lightning smacked it in the middle of the night, I thought we were hit by an airplane. It knocked about 6 feet off the top of the chimney and but a pretty good jagged edge in the stone fireplace in the living room. It took $4,000 of insurance money to repair, as well as my deductible.

Three years later, DW made me put another cap on last year, the birds were just unbearable. I cringe at every thunderstorm since.
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:34 AM   #2966
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Well done, NateW ! I enjoyed reading your post about repairing your Jetta. Satisfying to see a project done well.
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Old 06-06-2020, 04:23 PM   #2967
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Originally Posted by John Galt III View Post
Well done, NateW ! I enjoyed reading your post about repairing your Jetta. Satisfying to see a project done well.
Goofiness at the crank position sensor (speed sensor?) is a common no-start condition with Bosch engine management systems. An easy fix, if you know what to look for -- which is where the knowhow comes in.

I'm in the middle of an a/c repair on my Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter, so heavily into DiY work on German vehicles. I'm about 75% done with the fix and will add to this thread when I'm sure I've succeeded (otherwise, fuggedaboutit).
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Old 06-06-2020, 04:57 PM   #2968
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Originally Posted by NateW View Post
I replaced the timing belt and related parts on my '04 Jetta TDI with almost 200,000 miles on it. This is the second timing belt I replaced on this car. I also replaced all parts in the timing belt's path (tensioner, water pump, and roller). I replaced the thermostat since the coolant was drained. The serpentine belt and its tensioner also were replaced. I used the factory timing tools and a home made engine support brace because the right side engine mount had to be removed because it bolts to the engine block, inside of the timing belt's path. I also rethreaded the aluminum engine mount threads, using a TimeSert steel thread sleeve kit. I replaced the single use (torque-to-yield) engine mount fasteners.

Replaced the transaxle pendulum mount too.

When done, I experienced the first no start out of the many timing belts I replaced in various cars over the years. I scanned the engine control unit with my professional European automotive scan tool. Fault code recorded was no signal from the engine speed sensor (I did move the engine speed sensor harness out of the way to remove the coolant flange to replace the thermostat). I removed the sensor with its intergral 2-foot wiring loom and checked it electrically with my volt ohm meter. Two of the three sensor wires were shorted together. I slit the sensor's cable sheath with a razor blade and found that the insulation on the wires had completely disinigrated. I repaired the sensor wiring using wire from a junk wiring harness and soldered in the replacement wires and used heat shrink tubing on the solder connections. I added a new outer sheath from a salvaged appliance power cord.

Car started right away after installing the repaired sensor.
Nice job, Nate. I've had 3 early TDI's and did TB jobs on them. Once you have done a couple, they get easier. Need the VagCom cable though!
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:12 PM   #2969
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I fixed our 52 inch flatscreen Samsung tv. It would turn on and have sound but no picture. A search online indicated this was a common problem with these TVs and was caused by the failure of 2 capacitors on a circuit board. A YouTube search resulted in a video of the replacement of the 2 failing capacitors. Ordered new capacitors of same size for a couple $ and replaced them with a soldering iron. And it is still working fine 3 years later
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:47 PM   #2970
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My 20 year old Kenmore washer would stop mid cycle. Push down on the lid and it would continue cycle. Ordered a washer lid switch from ebay for $6.50. Very good instructions from the nice lady on youtube. Although you can see the switch right there, I had to take the whole shell off to replace the harness assembly. After testing I declare the repair a success.
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:25 AM   #2971
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On my newish (~6 mos.) Bosch dishwasher, I started getting the infamous E24 error code, which indicates a clog or kink in the discharge line or pump. It was intermittent, and I could get it to clear by just retrying on a rinse cycle, or cleaning out the pump area (usually!).

It got worse, and I pulled the D/W out, played with the hoses, cleaned the pump, etc., and still no joy. On a whim, I pulled apart the airgap and found a large chunk of gunky detritus! Momma always said to try the simple fixes first...

I don't want to jinx it, but so far, so good!
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:29 AM   #2972
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Replaced the system hard drive on my desktop with a new 1TB drive. Instead of mirroring the drive I used the restore cd's. Huge increase in performance!

Solved the slow performance on our laptop by restoring the it back to the original settings...getting rid of all the trash and unwanted data.
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:41 AM   #2973
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Maytag top load washer makes the noise but routinely won't agitate sometimes or spin others. But sometimes it does everything fine. 3 possible repairs per youtube. One was free, trimming a pc of tubing. Didnt work. One was a $55 part. Didn't work. $3 part on order. Least likely to work but worth a shot. I really don't like the reviews on all the new washers now. Returning the $55 part.
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:12 PM   #2974
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Nice job, Nate. I've had 3 early TDI's and did TB jobs on them. Once you have done a couple, they get easier. Need the VagCom cable though!
Thanks aja8888. VagCom is what I have; it's indespensible. Been repairing my own cars since I was 16 and don't recall ever having one in a repair shop, except for warranty work. My first car was a non-running 1964 VW Beetle that I paid $100 for. Towed it home and discovered the generator was siezed, which prevented the starter from spinning the engine fast enough to start. After the successful repair of installing a rebuilt generator I wanted perform all my automotive repair and maintenance and read all I could about it. Been driving VW diesels since 1990.
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:15 PM   #2975
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Well done, NateW ! I enjoyed reading your post about repairing your Jetta. Satisfying to see a project done well.
Thank you John, I appreciate your comments.
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:23 PM   #2976
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Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
Goofiness at the crank position sensor (speed sensor?) is a common no-start condition with Bosch engine management systems. An easy fix, if you know what to look for -- which is where the knowhow comes in.

I'm in the middle of an a/c repair on my Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter, so heavily into DiY work on German vehicles. I'm about 75% done with the fix and will add to this thread when I'm sure I've succeeded (otherwise, fuggedaboutit).
Looking forward to reading about it. You probably know this, but if the A/C system has been discharged, or leaked down and is being recharged as part of your repair, replace the receiver-drier and pull a good vacuum on the system to get all the air and moisture out, before weighing in the correct refrigerant charge.
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Old 06-14-2020, 10:16 AM   #2977
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Noticed the 20+ year old Kenmore refrigerator temperature had gone up a few degrees the past couple of days. Pulled everything out of the freezer and yeah the defroster heater burned out so the coils were all iced up. Lucky me had ordered a spare 4 years ago when it had gone out before. Seems to be working fine now, ordered a spare on Ebay $10.60 free shipping for the next time.
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Old 06-14-2020, 03:46 PM   #2978
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Noticed the 20+ year old Kenmore refrigerator temperature had gone up a few degrees the past couple of days. Pulled everything out of the freezer and yeah the defroster heater burned out so the coils were all iced up. Lucky me had ordered a spare 4 years ago when it had gone out before. Seems to be working fine now, ordered a spare on Ebay $10.60 free shipping for the next time.

Shhh! not so loud, I replaced mine about 10 years ago, I don't want to jink it.
PS, if I ordered an extra 4 years ago, I wouldn't remember I ordered.
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:17 PM   #2979
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Shhh! not so loud, I replaced mine about 10 years ago, I don't want to jink it.
PS, if I ordered an extra 4 years ago, I wouldn't remember I ordered.
I have been averaging one every 4 years, just happy this retiree is on the ball enough to do the repair. 100 miles one way to the nearest HD or Lowes.
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:17 PM   #2980
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Cottage time so decided to upgrade the outside water line from the lake. Put a hose bib just upstream of the foot valve and another just above the pump so the whole thing would be easier to prime. Replaced the 1" line from lake to pump with green stripe. Cleaned the foot valve internals. Was very easy to prime with the new additions. Hopefully going forward will be the same.
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