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Old 09-22-2020, 02:14 PM   #3261
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Another thing to check is the vent hole in the tank cap. On my mower, it clogged up and the mower would starve for fuel shortly after starting it. Cleaned it and no more problems.
I did think of that and checked it, the vent was clear. Besides, the engine ran fine until the fuel level reached the 1/2 tank level (where the fuel line exited the tank) and only then did the engine begin bogging down and running lean. That strongly suggested the fuel line inside the tank. Replacing it did in fact fix the problem.
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Old 09-25-2020, 07:02 PM   #3262
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I managed to lock myself out of the house today and then found the garage door keypad no longer works. Once I got back inside, I set about figuring out the keypad problem. Initially, I thought it was the battery, but it tested as good and a new battery didn't help. I tried repeatedly to reprogram the PIN thinking I'd forgotten it, but was unable to reprogram it.

Long story, short, it turns out the original PIN used just 3 digits for a 4 number PIN, so those keys were worn out. I was able to set a new code using digits not previously used. Saved about $40.

Next challenge, to re-pin a half dozen of the Schlage door locks to a common key. The previous owner seemed content to have 7 different keys to seven different doors, some of which have no known key at all. This drives me nutz.
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Old 09-25-2020, 07:33 PM   #3263
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...

Long story, short, it turns out the original PIN used just 3 digits for a 4 number PIN, so those keys were worn out. I was able to set a new code using digits not previously used. Saved about $40. ...
Pretty cool that you figured it out and figured a work-around. Years ago, I had a similar problem on my little netbook, I couldn't get through the logon. I finally figured out one of the keys used in the password wasn't working. Thought I was stuck, but fortunatly it recognized an external USB keyboard before logon, and I got in with that until I found a replacement keypad on ebay (it just snapped in, ez fix, but it wasn't a North American keyboard, so a few keys were a little different, and maybe it sent all the keystrokes to Russia?).

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Old 09-30-2020, 05:37 AM   #3264
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Another thing to check is the vent hole in the tank cap. On my mower, it clogged up and the mower would starve for fuel shortly after starting it. Cleaned it and no more problems.


Yup. Thatís where I thought Walt was heading. Easy to check by loosening the cap a bit to see if the problem goes away.
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Old 09-30-2020, 08:28 AM   #3265
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Replaced a pilot assembly on our pretty old patio heater that we have not used for a couple of years because it was finicky and not lighting. Should get more patio Fall time now. Was happy that the $27 didn't go to waste and it worked on the 1st try. Perhaps the thermocouple was bad or the flame wasn't hot enough (bluer now than the before more yellow flame). Black piece is a mercury switch for tilt and came with a new assembly.

Best video I've seen on how this (gas water heater or propane heater) --

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Old 09-30-2020, 09:58 AM   #3266
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Nice fix on the heater. The thermocouple went out on my water heater a long while back and I replaced it, no problem. There were urgings to "call the man" because it involved natural gas. But I did the soap bubble test on my connections and lived to tell about it.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:24 AM   #3267
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I replaced the IGU of an upper sash Anderson window.

It's pretty easy, the cost of the glass was $64 delivered. I'm amazed it didn't break as it came Fedex from Washington State.

The steps were:
  1. Remove the sash from the window, it is made to be removed in my window.
  2. Remove the trim, which was easily pryed up, being careful not to bend it too much, and then simply straighten it out and set aside.
  3. Then I could see the silicone that needed to be cut free, only on the inside trim side.
  4. Flip over the window.
  5. Slice the silicone, which is some work, maybe a larger blade would work better, but after 4 times around the window, the IGU fell free.
  6. Clean up the frame.
  7. Dry fit my new glass IGU.
  8. Remove my new IGU.
  9. Silicone the frame like before, only on the inside frame portion.
  10. Lay in the glass, making sure it is pressed into the silicone, and let it cure for 4 hours without moving.
  11. Snap back in the trim.
  12. Re-install the sash in the window.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg cutting_free.jpg (230.1 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg Frame_separate.jpg (461.5 KB, 35 views)
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Old 09-30-2020, 02:54 PM   #3268
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Patched a hole on the side of the driveway where the ground underneath the asphalt had subsided/eroded away. The asphalt then collapsed, leaving a hole just the right size to get your foot trapped in and break your ankle. Looking around for something to fix it with I came across some stuff call Aquaphalt that although more expensive than most fixes came with almost universally favorable reviews. Pour it in the hole, tamp it down (I used a tamper with a jackhammer, that worked great!) and then water it. The water sets off some chemical reaction that solidifies it almost as good as hot asphalt mix. Maybe similar to latex paint? I had wondered if the 3.5 gallon bucket would be too much and what I'd do with the leftover stuff but needn't have worried - it was almost exactly the right amount and I had maybe one trowel's worth left over which I just left in the bucket that will go out with tomorrow's trash pickup. So far it looks good but I'll know better in a few years.

The hardest part of all that was carrying everything out to near the end of the driveway and then back when I was done. The actual repair was pretty easy.
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Old 10-01-2020, 02:59 AM   #3269
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My 2006 Hyundai Azera:

Replaced struts and shocks.
Replaced sway bar end links
Replaced upper control arm
Fixed driver side heater.
Fixed power seat switches.
Replaced hood and trunk struts
Fixed a dent
Touched up all the stone chips

Thanks all to Youtubers posting how to DIY.
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:33 AM   #3270
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I built my wife a 12'x16' sheshed a little over a year ago to replace a smaller one that had electricity. Her smaller shed was crushed after hurricane Micheal blew a tree down on it. When I built it I placed the electrical conduit under the 2"x4" that is the bottom plate of the wall. I marked the position inside the shed with a pencil mark. now a year later I decided to add a light and outlet to HER sheshed. I drilled a 1-1/8" hole through the plate. It lined up perfect with the conduit coming up from the ground. Only one hickup, the wires were so close to the bottom of HER sheshed, that the drill bit cut through the insulation and popped the circuit breaker. I managed to fish the 3 wires up though the plate, and added an insulator over the wires to protect where I the cut insulation. I added more conduit up to a switch and added an outlet, installed a 4ft LED light, plugged it in and "there was light"


PS.

I emphasized HER sheshed, because as she's moving things out for a yard sale, I suggested she didn't need 3 rakes or 4 limb loppers, and three pitch forks, she made it clear this is her shed and she can store them if she wants. :-) That's OK, I did move all those lawn and garden tools to her shed from mine after I got hers built!
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:38 AM   #3271
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Turns out a tree root had found it's way into one of the elbow slip joints (Polyethylene drain pipe, so the joints weren't glued). It had grown to about 3/4 inch thick and had busted the elbow apart. I cut out the elbow and discovered the root continued inside the pipe for another 18 feet!
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You wouldn't think tree roots would be that "smart", but the little extra water leaking out of the 45 was like gold on those hot dry days. Glue!
Even in NC where we've had a lot of wet, my corrugated plastic drains got roots, presumably through tiny nicks made on installation or through movement against sharp rocks (no joints). I'm betting the bad droughts of the late 2000s caused the roots to go into water-seeking-missile mode. Once in, they'll take advantage.

I spent the better part of the last two days trying to clear them. I give up. Solid roots. Future "recent repair" will be to dig up and replace with PVC, and oh yeah, those joints will be solidly glued.
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:50 AM   #3272
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Got the fan working on my 25 year old dehumidifier condenser.

The rubber blade assembly was pressed on the 1/4" motor shaft with a key that has either deteriorated or disappeared. Recently, the fan was only turning at 1/16th speed, and mostly slipping on the motor shaft, which was keyed (see pic).

The FIX: place fan blade on shaft, then jam a piece of 14 gauge copper wire through the key area of the shaft. This effectively pressed against the fan blade assembly and secured it.

BTW, I got the idea of copper wire from some HVAC repair forum. Turns out this is a pretty common trick to secure things. Copper has good properties of stickiness and malleability, while still retaining shape and withstanding some heat.
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Old 10-01-2020, 09:18 AM   #3273
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All this talk of roots in drain pipes, has me wondering about a septic system I'm installing.
At first I thought, I'll just glue the joints, but that seems silly as the pipes have drain holes in them.
Do roots cause big issues with septic systems ?
This system is in a forest.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:03 AM   #3274
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...the wires were so close to the bottom of HER sheshed, that the drill bit cut through the insulation and popped the circuit breaker.
I'm not overly careful with 110 AC, but I probably would have had the breaker off already if I was drilling towards some wiring. But when you heard the pop and smelled it, that was a good sign to stop drilling

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Do roots cause big issues with septic systems ?
This system is in a forest.
Yes. And gluing wouldn't help, of course.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:15 AM   #3275
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All this talk of roots in drain pipes, has me wondering about a septic system I'm installing.
At first I thought, I'll just glue the joints, but that seems silly as the pipes have drain holes in them.
Do roots cause big issues with septic systems ?
This system is in a forest.
We're in a forested area too. When we had our septic system installed, they ran pipes for the drain field on both sides of an alder tree. I never thought about roots growing into the pipes, and they didn't say anything about it. Over the years that tree grew big and healthy, much larger than any other alder on our property. We eventually cut it down a few years ago because we tired of picking up the limbs it dropped every year.

Considering how healthy that tree was, and drain lines that are intentionally perforated, I can't help but think it probably grew roots into the lines. At least into the drain rock, if not into the pipes themselves.

Having said that, our septic system is 30 years old now and we have never had an issue with it. The tree is gone, so any roots left in the drain field will eventually rot away (many years from now). I'll never know without digging up the drain lines, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

If I were doing it over, I would try to keep the trees away from the drain lines as far as possible.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:44 AM   #3276
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As far as septics go, I have a pine tree so big I can't get my arms around it, 5 feet from my drain field. I get some serious needle drop every spring. Ms G thinks I don't water the tree enough.
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Old 10-01-2020, 01:08 PM   #3277
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Replaced the brake light bulb in DWs car. Those little plastic rivets in the trunk are a real pita.
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Old 10-02-2020, 07:59 AM   #3278
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Noticed a few pin holes have appeared on the 'weed eater' push lawn mower deck. The Briggs and Stratton motor is still perfect, of course. I guess I'll clean it up and spray something on it, hoping to eek out a few more months of usability. Not going to go to the trouble of cutting out a piece and welding new metal in. Last time I had a rusting out lawn mower, I tried to get it welded by a lawn mower repair shop, but ended up donating it to a different lawn mower repair shop. Too bad you can't just buy a new deck for $30 or so.
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:22 AM   #3279
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Tree roots and septic can be compared to cancer and smoking. The incidence of problems is higher, but maybe you'll get lucky.

And recall septic is a group of pipes. If the roots zone in on one, the others may be left alone. And you'll be fine. Root troubles are wierd. My dad, a plumber, saw it all. Actually, in those days before cameras, he did most work by feel. I used to love watching him pull back the rod with small root bushes attached. Amazing.
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:34 AM   #3280
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I'm not overly careful with 110 AC, but I probably would have had the breaker off already if I was drilling towards some wiring. But when you heard the pop and smelled it, that was a good sign to stop drilling

I hear you, I needed the power on to make my drill work. It stopped exactly when it hit the wire! ;-)
I didn't remember I had the wires so close to the bottom of the sheshed.

Next I'm going to install 48" LED lights in my shed, I'll need to install some new outlets. I moved a small milling machine into my shed and someday I hope to get a lathe. I had a smal Harbor Freight lathe, but the hurricane blew off a couple of clear panels of the roof and it got wet and rusted. I want a bigger one so rather then spend time cleaning it up, I sold it cheap and let someone else clean it up.
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