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Old 10-15-2020, 02:30 PM   #3321
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Or was it $10 with $9 shipping?
The first place offered just the solenoid for $10 PLUS shipping. I bought the entire valve on Amazon which included the solenoid for $19 with free shipping. Now I have a spare valve.


NW-Bound: +100 on unions. The connection from my main water to the drip valves was just a straight piece of pipe. That meant I had to shut off the water to the whole house to work on the system. I replaced the pipe with 2 nipples, a ball valve AND a union,.
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Old 10-15-2020, 02:49 PM   #3322
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Removed a leaky backflow preventer on my outdoor faucet. Had to drill out the locking set screw.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:00 PM   #3323
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Garbage Disposal took a sh_t and rotted out the cabinet base board (particle board) so had to get some 6x1 pine to make a foundation and some sanded plywood to make the base. Much stronger and nicer than the original. Messed with my home brew timing but it all worked out.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:13 PM   #3324
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What a coincidence! Yesterday, one of my sprinkler valves was stuck open while I happened to be out in the backyard applying fertilizer to the plants. So, I did not lose too much water.

I had some spare solenoids to try on, but that was not the cause of failure. The diaphragm inside had failed.

Just came back from Home Depot. A new valve is $16.69 including tax.

Replacement took 5 minutes. I learned from past mistakes, so when I built the valve manifold, I installed PVC union joints. No cutting and gluing the new valve into place. Just teflon tape on the threads, and screw everything back on. Beautiful!
A scheme I've used is to have a spare valve handy, and if a diaphragm or other part on top failed (other than an easy to replace solenoid), install the top half of the new valve onto the bottom of the old valve. This way, no need to touch any pipe connections. Works for every failure, except a cracked lower half, which I have not experienced.
All of my valves are distributed, no manifold, that is common around here.
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Old 10-15-2020, 11:21 PM   #3325
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Replaced some fluorescent light fixtures in the woodshop with LEDs...much brighter. DW put the old ones in the paper for sale, already sold them...applied that to what we spent on the LEDs...good update.

Next up is one of our toilets...about once per day the valve leaks and you can hear the tank refill partially. I'm saving that job for a rainy cold day lol.
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:18 PM   #3326
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DW put the old ones in the paper for sale, already sold them...
I'm amazed anyone would want fluorescent tube fixtures nowadays...the moment one starts flickering, I buy LED tube replacements, cut out the ballast, and install the LED array. Cheap to buy, nice and bright, cheap to run, long life.
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Old 10-17-2020, 02:30 PM   #3327
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I'm amazed anyone would want fluorescent tube fixtures nowadays...the moment one starts flickering, I buy LED tube replacements, cut out the ballast, and install the LED array. Cheap to buy, nice and bright, cheap to run, long life.
Ditto! I have another one waiting for me to convert.
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Old 10-17-2020, 03:42 PM   #3328
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Speaking of attic fans. My 40 year old became a leaker. Cracked shroud, bad flashing nails, water pooling and splashing.

So, out it goes.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fan1.jpg (426.7 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg fan2.jpg (472.0 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg fan4.jpg (546.9 KB, 31 views)
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Old 10-17-2020, 04:02 PM   #3329
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Speaking of attic fans. My 40 year old became a leaker. Cracked shroud, bad flashing nails, water pooling and splashing.

So, out it goes.
So you reduced the attic ventilation instead of replacing the fan, I suppose you feel the ridge vent is good enough ?

How soon do you estimate you will re-shingling the roof, it's looking fairly old ?
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Old 10-17-2020, 04:20 PM   #3330
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So you reduced the attic ventilation instead of replacing the fan, I suppose you feel the ridge vent is good enough ?

How soon do you estimate you will re-shingling the roof, it's looking fairly old ?
I replaced the roof mount with a gable mount fan. Even then, the jury is out on power ventilation, but I have the option if wanted. The non-powered ventilation is good. We have gable and ridge venting. The original design was gable only, with inadequate soffit intake. Soffit intake has been expanded, and ridge venting added.

The roof is on its last legs. This was simply to get rid of the leaking. A new roof is in order within 3 years or so. I'll see how the attic does next summer and perhaps go back to a roof mounted ventilator if necessary. I've experimented through the years with blocking the gables and just using the ridge. Also with power ventilation or not. You will go crazy reading opinions on these subjects on the internet! Everyone has their own ideas from short circuit flows (gable next to ridge) to sucking the A/C out of the house (power venting). The one thing almost everyone agrees on is that inadequate soffit intake is a huge problem, and I had it until I solved it a few years ago.
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When the assembly is cheaper than parts
Old 10-18-2020, 09:57 AM   #3331
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When the assembly is cheaper than parts

Replaced the carb on my Honda Rancher quad. The needle and seat was sticking and the float bowl was overflowing. New needle and seat around $20 a new carb was $34 from Amazon. UTube DIY guy did the repair in 32 minutes, took me like 3 hours. Runs better than ever.

I always wondered why my garden cart tire says to use a hand air pump. My compressor fill hose got stuck on the valve and I could stop the air flow fast enough the tube and tire blew out. You live you learn.
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Old 10-19-2020, 06:05 PM   #3332
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Removed a leaky backflow preventer on my outdoor faucet. Had to drill out the locking set screw.


Thought about that so I stopped tightening the set screw!
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:08 PM   #3333
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Definitely getting lazy.
On the way home, stopped at Autozone, had them install winter windshield wipers on my Caddy. No extra charge. They got to dispose the old ones.
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Old 10-20-2020, 03:02 PM   #3334
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My wife out to start the truck yestarday, and came in and said the truck needs a new battery. "I didn't shut it off, because I don't think it will start again." Call me skeptical, we haven't had a hint of any problem.
So she wants me to take it to Sams and have the battery checked. I was a little disinterested, but wife says well I'm going are you? We start driving over and hmm, the voltmeter is not in it's normal position.
Now I start to wonder if we will even make it before we discharge the battery. I turn off the air conditioner and radio in an effort to have enough charge to make it there. I'm also concerned that the alternator is not charging enough to raise the voltage to where it should be. WE get there my wife orders a new battery and the the guy carries it out, the truck is still running, so he unhooks the battery and it quits. This made me and the battery guy, think bad alternator. He installs the new battery, it was 4 years 8 months old. And as always happens when the battery is disconnected the alarm system starts making a loud racket.
Being wise, I brought the repair book that I had written down the key turn sequence, to get the alarm to shut off. Well, the tech and myself tried the sequence dozens of times and it would not shut off. The tech gave up. We paid for the battery, walked home got another vehicle and rope, went back and towed the vehicle home.
I got on the internet and found an alternate way to shut off the alarm. It worked first time. So, with the alarm off the truck would turn over and started without a problem. Also the voltmeter was in it's normal position. It seems as though the only problem was a bad battery.

My wife was right, that happens a lot, darn it.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:37 PM   #3335
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.....WE get there my wife orders a new battery and the the guy carries it out, the truck is still running, so he unhooks the battery and it quits. This made me and the battery guy, think bad alternator. He installs the new battery, it was 4 years 8 months old.......
Bolding by me. Don't do that!!!

Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running to check on the health of the alternator and overall charging system was a 1960s-era trick. The advent of expensive electronics in vehicles, and the increasing content of it over the years, makes that trick a very bad idea. The alternator puts out full-wave rectified 3-phase AC. All the electronics in the vehicle expect that the extremely low AC impedance of the battery will be there to integrate out the high AC ripple. Also, the battery absorbs transients. Disconnecting the battery on a running vehicle allows bad high peak AC ripple to hit all the electronics. The absorption of transients disappears also. Damage of semiconductors does not always result in failure immediately. Every factory-authorized shop manual will warn against doing it. Don't do it. This topic may appear on the Semester Final Exam, study up!
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:06 PM   #3336
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...., the voltmeter is not in it's normal position.
.....
How old is this truck, as I recall voltmeters from long ago, and thought it a shame they became a light that went on when things were bad.
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Old 10-21-2020, 05:47 AM   #3337
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In short, the battery is an essential and required component of the electrical circuit and system.

Your technical description gave me nightmares back to engineering school. I suddenly had visions of circuit diagrams in my head.

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Bolding by me. Don't do that!!!

Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running to check on the health of the alternator and overall charging system was a 1960s-era trick. The advent of expensive electronics in vehicles, and the increasing content of it over the years, makes that trick a very bad idea. The alternator puts out full-wave rectified 3-phase AC. All the electronics in the vehicle expect that the extremely low AC impedance of the battery will be there to integrate out the high AC ripple. Also, the battery absorbs transients. Disconnecting the battery on a running vehicle allows bad high peak AC ripple to hit all the electronics. The absorption of transients disappears also. Damage of semiconductors does not always result in failure immediately. Every factory-authorized shop manual will warn against doing it. Don't do it. This topic may appear on the Semester Final Exam, study up!
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Old 10-21-2020, 06:48 AM   #3338
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Quote:
so he unhooks the battery and it quits.
Bolding by me. Don't do that!!!...
Just in case the message got lost amid the (excellent) explanations. I agree. Don't do that!!!

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Old 10-21-2020, 07:16 AM   #3339
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At 4 y 8 mo, it’s not that surprising the battery gave up its ghost. I have had to replace some of mine far earlier than that.

To the folks ringing the alarm bell about disconnecting the battery in a running car: thanks for that! My knowledge on that is indeed from back in the 60-ies and apparently, I never got the new memo on that.... I don’t usually encounter that issue, although I considered it as a fallback option when the ignition switch went bad in my 79’ 280ZX and the car sometimes kept running after turning and pulling the key! I have since replaced the ignition lock......
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Old 10-21-2020, 07:31 AM   #3340
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If the holes are not too big, another approach would be to prep the surface with a drill powered wire or abrasive wheel and Bondo. The fiberglass reinforced stuff is harder to work with but adds strength.
Current solution : The holes aren't too big yet. I scraped away at the dried up grass underneath the deck, with a screwdriver and got it pretty clean. Sprayed several spots of rusty metal, inside and outside, with something called Rust Reformer. Also, found an old tube of 'metal mender' I had been using on the exhaust on my 1988 Trans Am. The metal mender stuff was pretty thick by now, but I was able to squeeze the remains out of the tube and smear it nicely around the holes and cracks. It dried up nice and hard and I've mowed the lawn twice now with it. Interestingly, one of the holes I had planned to fill in appears to be machined there there on purpose, in a low spot, in a thick part of the metal, maybe a drainage hole? So I just sprayed it with the stuff, but left it open, so it can do whatever it was supposed to do, lol.
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