Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[calmloki]

Was at a late lunch with a bunch of friends/ersatz family yesterday. Turned out the drains decided not to. drain. Found the outside 3" cleanout, did a fast trip to Lowes for a water weenie (standing water in the cleanout? not a plunger cure), and ran about 40' of hose and weenie into the cleanout. I expected it was a main drain snake problem, but wasn't up for horsing 100#+ of rental drain snake into the back of the car. $13 worth of water weenie? that was doable. Ran that tool for too darn long with no success - didn't back any water into the house, but couldn't break the blockage free. Told them to call their landlord. Today I learned that even though there was a sewer manhole in the street and an S stamped in the curb in front of the house that the place is still on a septic system. My ministrations were never going to work on a septic in need of pumping (at the least).

 

[calmloki]

I don't know about people's mentioning whacking, banging, and whanging. Perhaps I should post photo of the bearing cap after I managed to hammer it into place, using a wood block as a buffer: the doggone thing got all deformed and looked pretty sad.

So, I did not want to create a bigger mess. If I were to do this again, I would get a bearing puller like the following photo. I already have a pulley puller set, and would not mind adding a bearing puller set to my tool kit.

Buying tools for one little job? Where's your pioneering spirit, your sense of adventure? Also, I don't see that particular puller getting the outer race out of the hub...

BTW - installed my new Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump and am very pleased with it on low speed - it claims to be using ~100W at 750rpm. I'll schedule a 1/2 hour 2350 run time to make the side cleaning port Sand Shark operate - that claims ~860W. On our small pool that translates to under $5/month with 2 water exchanges/day, 8 hours run time. Cool! Thanks for your help on that.https://i.chzbgr.com/maxW500/4367858688/h6E4AB7F7/

 

[NW-Bound]

Buying tools for one little job? Where's your pioneering spirit, your sense of adventure? Also, I don't see that particular puller getting the outer race out of the hub...

My "sense of adventure" has cost me dearly in my life - only money and some of my sanity so far, and not limbs and certainly not life - such that I have sworn that if I tackle any job, I will be sure to have the right tool for it.

OK, how about this puller for a mere $20 from Harbor Freight?

About the variable-speed pool pump, yes, you will save on electricity if the pump lasts for a few years. I hope you got extended warranty for it.

 

[calmloki]

My "sense of adventure" has cost me dearly in my life - only money and some of my sanity so far, and not limbs and certainly not life - such that I have sworn that if I tackle any job, I will be sure to have the right tool for it.

OK, how about this puller for a mere $20 from Harbor Freight?

About the variable-speed pool pump, yes, you will save on electricity if the pump lasts for a few years. I hope you got extended warranty for it.

The HF puller may have enough standoff leg length to pull the race out of the hub, but I think you will find 2 good pulling points on the outer race, which means the 3 jaw puller will just be grabbing a faint edge of the race with 2 of the jaws.

I didn't get the extended warranty on the pump - OTOH, I paid about $975 including all the fittings and giving my labor away for free. The local utility will kick back $200, so $775 cost. A whole 60 days warranty. If I went with a professional installation I would have a 3 year warranty if I bought 3 items in a bundle (Intelliflo, cleaner and filter for instance), and paid for professional installation. I'm rolling the dice that the $975 cost saved me enough to assume the risk of pump failure.

 

[NW-Bound]

I just checked and saw that I paid $1455, all parts, labor, and tax, for a pump that I could get on the Internet for $1050. I thought the additional cost was high for just gluing the two PVC inlet/outlet pipes and to wire it up, but the pool store gave me $200 reward to sweeten the deal. And as the 1st variable-speed pump I had lasted less than 2 years, I wanted the extended 3-yr warranty that only came with store installation.

And as I reported recently on your thread, this doggone new pump, "best" on the market according to the store, had its electronics failed after 3 months!

I called them, and they came swapping out the electronics the next morning. While this pump would still be under the 1-year manufacturer warranty, it would be a lot more hassle for me to uninstall it to go claim it (to the store or to send back to factory?).

 

[Sunset]

I found a pin hole leak in a copper pipe in the basement last week. The pipe doesn't go anywhere just to a shut off valve. I think because the water stayed in the pipe and didn't move it caused corrosion.........

I had the same thing happen on the pipe leading to the kitchen sink , and my sister had it happen on the pipe coming off the water meter (few feet past the meter).

So I don't think standing water is the cause, possibly its a defect in the pipe manufacture ?

 

[John Galt III]

I don't know about people's mentioning whacking, banging, and whanging. Perhaps I should post photo of the bearing cap after I managed to hammer it into place, using a wood block as a buffer: the doggone thing got all deformed and looked pretty sad.

So, I did not want to create a bigger mess. If I were to do this again, I would get a bearing puller like the following photo. I already have a pulley puller set, and would not mind adding a bearing puller set to my tool kit.

I'm not a fan of awkward mechanical repairs either. If I am "pioneering" I'm OK if the solution looks straightforward and somewhat clean. As far as the whanging and whacking..... one of my neighbors was lying on the ground next to the rear wheel hub of his Ford Fiesta for a whole day whanging and whacking. He did finally get it off! Also, once when I was getting my annual inspection, they had a big guy they apparently borrowed from another garage, banging, whanging, and slamming a hammer on somebody's wheel hub all the time I was there. At least a half hour.

 

[samclem]

I had the same thing happen on the pipe leading to the kitchen sink , and my sister had it happen on the pipe coming off the water meter (few feet past the meter).

So I don't think standing water is the cause, possibly its a defect in the pipe manufacture ?

If the leak is in the copper pipe itself (not a joint), then it could be bad news. Copper can last for a long, long time if the water pH is okay, but it doesn't like acidic water (low pH). It corrodes and often the first sign is a pinhole leak. After that, things can start going downhill: more leaks, especially inside walls, etc) can cause a lot of damage, and at very least are a constant nuisance. There are methods to neutralize the acidity (which has other benefits), but homeowners often choose to install newer PEX pipe in place of copper. Not cheap, but final.

 

[ERD50]

... And as the 1st variable-speed pump I had lasted less than 2 years, I wanted the extended 3-yr warranty that only came with store installation.

And as I reported recently on your thread, this doggone new pump, "best" on the market according to the store, had its electronics failed after 3 months! ....

What is it about these pool pumps that they don't last long? I've got a fridge and a freezer that are ~ 20 ~ 25 years old, and I've never done any maintenance on the motor/compressor. They typically run at about ~ 50% duty cycle, so that is a lot of hours of operation.

It's actually pretty amazing that these these can just run and run like that, no oiling, nothing (I guess they get lubricated by the compressed fluids?). But failures in a year are so are far on the other end of the spectrum - what's up?


-ERD50

 

[sengsational]

.. what's up?

I often wondered that about boats. They're always in need of repairs. I think it must have something to do with water.

 

[NW-Bound]

In both cases of my variable-speed pumps, it's the electronics that failed. Note that they are two different brands. Perhaps some parts are not used according to their ratings. I think the manufacturers have not gained experience in field failures of their products. They will learn the hard way, and the weaker ones may drop out of the market in the years ahead.

 

[homestead]

I had the same thing happen on the pipe leading to the kitchen sink , and my sister had it happen on the pipe coming off the water meter (few feet past the meter).

So I don't think standing water is the cause, possibly its a defect in the pipe manufacture ?

Using excessive flux in sweating pipes and not wiping off the excess can cause pinholes. Flux is corrosive to copper.

 

[Walt34]

What is it about these pool pumps that they don't last long? I've got a fridge and a freezer that are ~ 20 ~ 25 years old, and I've never done any maintenance on the motor/compressor. They typically run at about ~ 50% duty cycle, so that is a lot of hours of operation.

It's actually pretty amazing that these these can just run and run like that, no oiling, nothing (I guess they get lubricated by the compressed fluids?). But failures in a year are so are far on the other end of the spectrum - what's up?

From what I remember from my A/C days the oil actually dissolves in the refrigerant and that keeps things very well lubricated. The sealed refrigeration system is also very dry since any water will freeze at the restriction. Prior to filling the system with refrigerant they pump out as much air as is practical, causing any water to boil off at room temperature.

That's a far different environment than a pool pump works in.

 

[ls99]

Garage door repair. Fortunately could do it from inside as it failed after pulling into the garage and it closed. Outside was +5F.

The center bearing support of the torsion bar came loose from the header which was padded out with two small pieces of 2x4. The outermost 2x4 split where two 2" lag bolts holding the center bearing and one end of the torsion spring were screwed in. The torsion bar was bent into a nice arc.

Taking DW's car to the hardware store in town bought a couple of 4 1/2 inch long lag bolts. Once back at the house proceeded to unwind the torsion spring, thus removing the tension and bow from the torsion bar. First drill pilot holes with long bit, then used my handy air ratchet, installed the two long lag bolts. Verified torsion bar is straight then final torqued the lag bolts. Reset the support cables on the end pulleys, wind up the torque spring, reconnect power and lock in the trolley. Test. All is well.

I am sure I saved a few hundred bucks by not calling garage door people. I am sure they also charge a premium on pleasant NOT days like today.

By the way anyone working with garage door springs is well advised to learn safe procedures, damn things can kill you.

 

[sengsational]

Nice fix LS! When I told people I was going to replace my tortion springs, they all said I'd end up in the hospital, or worse. Anyway, too bad the bar was not mounted "to last". Something so easy to do right the first time, but maybe the original installer didn't have the experience or didn't have enough pride in workmanship. Oooh, I hope it wasn't you that installed it in the first place!!

 

[ls99]

Heh, it was put in by the "professional" builder in 1998, when original owners remodeled and added three car garage. We bought the house 6 years ago. About foour years ago I had to replace a broken torsion spring in another door. And re balance all three at that time.

I learned to hate profesional builders. I found too many crap construction details. The description would go on for at least six pages.

The unfortunate part was the DW "loved" the house at first sight, and in spite of me telling her not express any positive feelings about it at viewing, she gushed anyway. Big Sigh. Grin and bear it.

 

[Sunset]

If the leak is in the copper pipe itself (not a joint), then it could be bad news. Copper can last for a long, long time if the water pH is okay, but it doesn't like acidic water (low pH). It corrodes and often the first sign is a pinhole leak. After that, things can start going downhill: more leaks, especially inside walls, etc) can cause a lot of damage, and at very least are a constant nuisance. There are methods to neutralize the acidity (which has other benefits), but homeowners often choose to install newer PEX pipe in place of copper. Not cheap, but final.

Good to know, mine was in a 90 degree elbow joint, so maybe it was just the joint that was bad ? It was the outside corner of the joint, not a solder issue.

I cannot remember where my sisters was, whether it was a joint or part of the pipe itself, next time I'm over I'll look to see , and of course look for more leaks as she won't.

I'd hate to have a leak in the wall...

 

[Sunset]

Using excessive flux in sweating pipes and not wiping off the excess can cause pinholes. Flux is corrosive to copper.

This is good news... as it gives a possibility it is a localized problem.

 

[Sunset]

LS99 I'm sure you saved easily $300 as I priced out new torsion springs a year or two ago and did mine after watching youtube videos.
I also priced asking a pro to do it, and decided I could save a bundle on my own.

 

[calmloki]

Driver's window quit on the BMW wagon - glass was all loosey goosey but the motor ran. An independent quoted 1.1 hours and $350 total cost and refused to use customer supplied parts. Found a new regulator online for $28 - delivered! Fought the door apart (lotsa wires in there...) and found the window out of it's regulator clamp, so set it back in place and was re-clamping it while thinking about the hard rubber and the waste of buying the regulator and Kerpow! Shattered that glass into thousands of tiny harmless pieces!

I expect better of me. Found a replacement window at a local wrecking yard, installed it, and found the regulator cables had hidden broken strands and were binding, so replaced the regulator. All is good, total cost $71 and my labor. Now I know how that door comes apart.

 

[REWahoo]

Now I know how that door comes apart.

That's all well and good, but do you know how it goes back together? That's always been the tricky part for me...

 

[travelover]

.......... was re-clamping it while thinking about the hard rubber and the waste of buying the regulator and Kerpow! Shattered that glass into thousands of tiny harmless pieces!
...............

I admire you for posting your screw up. I thought this stuff only happened to me.

 

[travelover]

Not really a repair so much as a modification. Last year the furnace shut down a few times when the temperature dropped below -10 F. The problem was that the hot, moist discharge was being sucked into the intake and creating a frost blockage.

I added a 3 foot high riser pipe to the discharge, so the steamy discharge is well above the intake even on a windy day. Last night it was -21F and no problems.

If you live somewhere warm and this issue is unimaginable - I don't want to hear about it.

 

[calmloki]

Not really a repair so much as a modification. Last year the furnace shut down a few times when the temperature dropped below -10 F. The problem was that the hot, moist discharge was being sucked into the intake and creating a frost blockage.

I added a 3 foot high riser pipe to the discharge, so the steamy discharge is well above the intake even on a windy day. Last night it was -21F and no problems.

If you live somewhere warm and this issue is unimaginable - I don't want to hear about it.

That is imaginable. When I drove to the junkyard the other day it was without a window. in my t-shirt. Didn't run the AC though.

 

[Chuckanut]

I am fixing a rusty dishwasher rack before it rusts through and become useless. Somebody here mentioned a goop that paints on the rusted spots. I hope it works.