Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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DD's 2010 Fusion has a bad catalytic converter. I am considering changing it myself, but after reading this, may opt to go to an independent shop with a lift. :blush:
Has it got 80K miles on it? Since approx 1996, all cars have had 8 year, 80K (whichever comes first) mfgr warranty on catalytic converters. Let the dealer do it?
 
Has it got 80K miles on it? Since approx 1996, all cars have had 8 year, 80K (whichever comes first) mfgr warranty on catalytic converters. Let the dealer do it?

Unfortunately, it's got 96K on it and out of the federal mandated emissions warranty.
 
I just finished replacing all the stair treads in one of my rentals. The building was built in 1927, so the treads were quite worn. It was starting to get me worried about some one falling. The leading ~1.5" was rounded, not squared off.

They were not hard to install, but a rascal to pull the nails. 9+ nails in every tread. Mostly the nails in the corners were hard. I installed them with 3" deck screws. It was about a 3.5 hour job.

I also installed a new handrail on the right hand side.

This is how bad the edges were. In total, 11 treads.
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Finished
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Dang. Surely you can find a used car dealer that knows how to "fix" odometers? No--"it would be wrong."!

I think those days are over with the advent of computers in modern cars! Plus, state inspection data records a lot of stuff in a separate database. I can buy an aftermarket Cat Converter for $150 or so (dealer OEM is near $600). It's not a hard job to change it, it's the under-the-car location and possible rusted/frozen bolts that make it a pain.
 
....... It's not a hard job to change it, it's the under-the-car location and possible rusted/frozen bolts that make it a pain.
I'd definitely recommend splitting the nuts rather than hoping they unthread.
 
Replaced the flex pipe between the catalytic converter and the muffler on my Escape. It should have been a 15 minute job but (and there is always a "but" when wrenching) I broke off two bolts on the catalytic converter flange. In retrospect, I should have just split the nuts with a grinder, but I foolishly tried penetrating oil followed by generous applications of torque. I then foolishly thought that I could drill out said bolts, but numerous heating and cooling cycles had them to hardened like glass - a drill wouldn't touch them.

In the end, I cut a slot from the edge of the flange to the broken stud and punched out the broken studs. Four hours later - done. :facepalm:


Had forgot about this one.... this happened maybe 25 years ago... was going to help out this lady that I knew who was poor change the oil on her truck... well, the oil filter removal tool I had was skinny and not that great... it bent the oil filter..... called a friend who knew cars and he said to take a screwdriver and drive it through the oil filter and you can get more torque on it... sure you can... enough to tear the oil filter in two.... I will admit that it took me three hours to get to this point..... but, much cursing and worrying later I was thinking of just getting in my car and driving off... but called another friend who lived a bit away and he had a tool that had a wide strap... got it on the upper half and with a LOT of effort I finally broke the filter loose... put on the new filter, put in new oil and DONE.... only 6 hours to do it :facepalm:

If I had a problem with a filter after that I was going to take it in... but that was the last one that gave me a problem.... now I just pay someone to do it....
 
A minor snafu, put the charging cap backwards on the battery of my hand held drill. Naturally blew up the bridge rectifier. Just happened to have some 1N4002 exact replacement diodes. Some soldering and all is well. The cap has been broken for years, need to pay attention to polarity each time.
 
Had forgot about this one.... this happened maybe 25 years ago... was going to help out this lady that I knew who was poor change the oil on her truck... well, the oil filter removal tool I had was skinny and not that great... it bent the oil filter..... called a friend who knew cars and he said to take a screwdriver and drive it through the oil filter and you can get more torque on it... sure you can... enough to tear the oil filter in two.... I will admit that it took me three hours to get to this point..... but, much cursing and worrying later I was thinking of just getting in my car and driving off... but called another friend who lived a bit away and he had a tool that had a wide strap... got it on the upper half and with a LOT of effort I finally broke the filter loose... put on the new filter, put in new oil and DONE.... only 6 hours to do it :facepalm:

If I had a problem with a filter after that I was going to take it in... but that was the last one that gave me a problem.... now I just pay someone to do it....

Moral of the story, always put the strap wrench on the bottom end of the filters. I too had crushed some filters in the past.:LOL:
 
At least travelover did it in his garage, or on the driveway. Me, I had to re-attach the motorhome tail pipe in a parking lot of a closed-out shopping plaza, near Sandusky Bay.

I had looked up the address of a muffler shop with my map program, drove there just to find out that it was closed long ago. So, I detached the toad, used it to drive to the nearest auto part store to get the hardware, then did it myself while my wife stood watch.
 
After 80,000 miles on the original brake pads I checked them yesterday om my 4 cylinder car. Still have a quarter inch left. But only an eighth of an inch until the squeal tabs rub the rotor. Looks pretty clean and rust-free. Putting new pads in should be a nice moderate level challenge, when the time comes.
 
I took folks advice here, and bought one of those $5 gear parts for a garage door opener.
Had to drop the old one down onto a ladder to get some space at the top, otherwise it was a pretty easy job. Lathered it with grease before mounting the new one.

I returned the opener I had bought but didn't need for a $115 refund (great sale).
 
The expensive Pfister kitchen faucet I installed less than 2 years ago leaked at the handle. I was cursing at the thought of having to crawl under the counter, besides having to spend another $200 for a replacement, when the thought of repairing it crossed my mind.

At the Web site of Pfister, I learned that the faucet got a lifetime warranty. Nice. So, I submitted a claim, and they sent me a replacement valve cartridge. I had not done this before, so fumbled for a bit before I figured out how to remove the decorative ring around the big nut holding in the cartridge. It got frozen due to the calcium deposit from the leak, and now got ugly scars from my plier. Now, I will have to see if I can get a replacement part from them.

I have also been building a shading structure for my wife's beloved tree. It's an exotic tropical fruit tree, and I could not talk her out of planting it in a harsh hot and dry climate that is not suitable. Women can be so stubborn.

So, seeing me posting so much here y'all would think I am not doing my chores, but I do.
 
......... It got frozen due to the calcium deposit from the leak, and now got ugly scars from my plier. Now, I will have to see if I can get a replacement part from them............

I had a similar issue and when I explained that it was seized due to corrosion, they sent me essentially a whole new faucet.
 
I used a heavy rubber pad, the type one uses to grab and open jar lids. The plier teeth cut right through it before I could get the ring to budge.
 
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I replaced 14 shiny brass doorknobs with dull boring brushed satin ones today. Then I took an Epsom salt bath.

Do not love readying my home for sale.


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I had a similar issue and when I explained that it was seized due to corrosion, they sent me essentially a whole new faucet.

We have a Pfister kitchen faucet. It has had a free part once, and a complete replacement once (both free from Pfister with proof of purchase/receipt).
 
We have a Pfister kitchen faucet. It has had a free part once, and a complete replacement once (both free from Pfister with proof of purchase/receipt).
I didn't even need a receipt.
 
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