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Old 08-31-2015, 08:37 AM   #1001
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I bought mine just 2 years ago, and my wife still had the receipt. However, on the Web site, they did not ask for it, just a photo to make sure of the model number.

I thought that for a replacement cartridge, they did not ask for the receipt (what else can you do but to install it on Pfister faucet), but for an entire faucet how do they check for fraudulent claim?

Oh, I remember that the Web site says they may want the old faucet back.
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:03 AM   #1002
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I bought mine just 2 years ago, and my wife still had the receipt. However, on the Web site, they did not ask for it, just a photo to make sure of the model number.

I thought that for a replacement cartridge, they did not ask for the receipt (what else can you do but to install it on Pfister faucet), but for an entire faucet how do they check for fraudulent claim?

Oh, I remember that the Web site says they may want the old faucet back.
The rep I talked to was falling over backward helpful. When I got the new faucet assembly, it was missing a tiny, but crucial, part and she FedEx'ed the little part out immediately.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:26 PM   #1003
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Recharged my car's AC today. The car is 8 1/2 years old and has never had the AC serviced, so I don't think that I have a significant leak, but the AC was just barely working. I used straight (no sealer or dye) 134A and a hose with gauge from WallyWorld - $30. The whole process took about 5 minutes and the AC is plenty cold now.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:31 PM   #1004
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DS's bathroom - leaking toilet needed a new flapper gasket and the fluorescent light (behind a fixture lens) went bad.


I made him do the repairs as "OJT".
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:25 PM   #1005
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Recharged my car's AC today. The car is 8 1/2 years old and has never had the AC serviced, so I don't think that I have a significant leak, but the AC was just barely working. I used straight (no sealer or dye) 134A and a hose with gauge from WallyWorld - $30. The whole process took about 5 minutes and the AC is plenty cold now.
Summer's almost over? No/limited A/C until now? Check your heater's operation too!
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:37 PM   #1006
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Summer's almost over? No/limited A/C until now? Check your heater's operation too!
Very rarely use the AC, but it is high 80's and humid in MI right now, so I indulged. Plus the hybrid battery is also cooled by the AC, so it the AC doesn't work, no more electric mode. Figured I'd better recharge it before the low pressure switch kicked in.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:41 PM   #1007
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Very rarely use the AC, but it is high 80's and humid in MI right now, so I indulged. Plus the hybrid battery is also cooled by the AC, so it the AC doesn't work, no more electric mode. Figured I'd better recharge it before the low pressure switch kicked in.
Plus, defrosters depend on the A/C to pull out the humidity. So you still need A/C in winter.

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Old 09-02-2015, 03:44 PM   #1008
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Plus, defrosters depend on the A/C to pull out the humidity. So you still need A/C in winter.

-ERD50
Depends on where you are in winter.
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:08 PM   #1009
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Depends on where you are in winter.
Travelover is in MI, so he's gonna need 'em.

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Old 09-03-2015, 01:50 PM   #1010
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Going to have to change the cold water valve on a bathroom faucet.. It is a discontinued ceramic Kohler model and this is the second cold water valve of this type that has gradually gotten tight to the point it almost can't be closed. I have three sinks with these values and not one of the hot sides show any problem. Decided to buy a hot and cold spare just in case, seeing that the line has been discontinued. Don't want to have to change out 1 or more complete sets of fixtures in the next couple of year just because a simple valve is not available!
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:39 PM   #1011
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Going to have to change the cold water valve on a bathroom faucet.. It is a discontinued ceramic Kohler model and this is the second cold water valve of this type that has gradually gotten tight to the point it almost can't be closed. I have three sinks with these values and not one of the hot sides show any problem. Decided to buy a hot and cold spare just in case, seeing that the line has been discontinued. Don't want to have to change out 1 or more complete sets of fixtures in the next couple of year just because a simple valve is not available!
Is this the type with two ceramic discs that slide past each other? I've had those get super tight on me (this was a single hot/cold faucet though), and I was able to take it apart and separate the two discs. They were encased in a plastic carrier - and the carrier snapped when I pried it apart, but it was all held in place by the faucet, so that wasn't a problem. Once they were apart, I just cleaned them up, put a little silicone grease on them I think, and they were fine.

I'll bet that your water heater is trapping the sediment - it settles in the tank, and that is why the cold side is giving you problems. I had that issue with the hose screens on our wash machine inlet. The cold would clog up, hot was fine. I finally installed an external filter on the cold side.

Some of the newer water heaters have a dip tube that is supposed to stir up the sediment so that it doesn't form an insulating layer in the tank, but I bet that causes more problems with the faucets.

-ERD50
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:44 PM   #1012
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Replaced the charging port on my Dell XPS13 laptop. The computer would run off of the AC charger, but the battery is stuck at 17% and would not charge. Now after buying a new AC charger and replacing the charging port....the problem has not been resolved. You Tube has a few more potential fixes to try, but I am skeptical.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:21 PM   #1013
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We had a catastrophic failure on our well pressure tank. 40 Gallons of water sprayed all over (plus how much the pump put out before I could shut it off). Whoever decided to put the utility room on the upper level of this house? Mumble Mumble..... I then replaced the RO water system after the pressure tank on it ruptured the bladder reducing the available flow rate. This week we decided to make a pro-active replacement to my 28 year old water heater. That took a full day what with hauling the tanks down and up stairs, replumbing water lines, gas lines, vent lines and such.


It is nice to be able to do this type of work any day of the week and not be encumbered with a 5 or 6 day work week!
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:31 PM   #1014
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Whoever decided to put the utility room on the upper level of this house?
That should be a federal offense.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:06 PM   #1015
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That should be a federal offense.
That's as bad as hot water tanks in the attic, like around here.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:15 PM   #1016
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That's as bad as hot water tanks in the attic, like around here.
Yep, a disaster waiting to happen. With the increased efficiency requirements that went into effect in April, many new water heaters are now too large to fit into attic openings due to increased insulation.

Truly adding insult to injury.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:36 PM   #1017
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That's as bad as hot water tanks in the attic, like around here.
Or as in Houston were all water pipes are in the attic in many homes. Every so often it gets down to 10 in Houston, and in particular if it happens when folks are not home, you get to replace the plumbing (as well as ceilings). One Christmas this happened and you could see water running out of a lot of garages.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:44 PM   #1018
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Or as in Houston were all water pipes are in the attic in many homes. Every so often it gets down to 10 in Houston, and in particular if it happens when folks are not home, you get to replace the plumbing (as well as ceilings). One Christmas this happened and you could see water running out of a lot of garages.
I was living in Houston at the time (1980?) and two guys I worked with were on vacation and out of town when this happened. One returned home to discover his 'sunken living room' really was. The other had so much damage he had to move out for several months while the entire house was gutted and redone.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:00 PM   #1019
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Yep, a disaster waiting to happen. With the increased efficiency requirements that went into effect in April, many new water heaters are now too large to fit into attic openings due to increased insulation.

Truly adding insult to injury.
Yes, and having a sawsall handy helps with the installation!

Sawsall.jpg
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:19 AM   #1020
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Yep, a disaster waiting to happen. With the increased efficiency requirements that went into effect in April, many new water heaters are now too large to fit into attic openings due to increased insulation.

Truly adding insult to injury.
Sure, users see it as a big problem, but the regulators and other "interested parties" probably have no problem with it. After all, we can still get a tank up there, it just has to be smaller ("Good, the wasteful public will have to take shorter showers"). Or, we transition to a tankless system ("Good, we make more money selling those, and lots of jobs will be created installing new venting systems, new circuits. "Shovel ready jobs'"). Only the consumer loses.

Plumbing in the attic: PEX tubing should help quite a bit. It's not freeze-proof, but much more "resistant" to rupturing than copper, PVC, galvanized iron. My SILs house in Austin was plumbed with GI pipe (in the crawlspace) 50 years ago when it was built, it's slowly corroding until the flow rate is very low. Millions of homes with that stuff will need to be entirely re-plumbed. What were they thinking when they used it? "This is $200 cheaper than copper, new home buyers don't seem to notice or care."
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