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Old 01-23-2016, 06:16 PM   #1281
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Once I had the part in hand, everything went together smoothly. The whole episode was probably less than an hour start to finish, including time spent chasing parts.
With my luck, once the valve was replaced, I would have found the original leak.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:41 PM   #1282
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Slow But Steady
That was quick work. It was clever of you to break the valve while HD was open for business.

"Then I realized Debbie doesn't have any idea where the main water valve is, so I abandoned the bathroom Niagara and ran full speed to the back yard, my sneakers squishing with every step."

This is the part that surprised me. I never lived in a house without a main shutoff inside the home. We have about 24" of snow on the ground right now so if I was in this situation it would likely take 15 minutes or more to get to the shutoff resulting in many more gallons worth of cleanup.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:02 PM   #1283
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Slow But Steady
That was quick work. It was clever of you to break the valve while HD was open for business.

"Then I realized Debbie doesn't have any idea where the main water valve is, so I abandoned the bathroom Niagara and ran full speed to the back yard, my sneakers squishing with every step."

This is the part that surprised me. I never lived in a house without a main shutoff inside the home. We have about 24" of snow on the ground right now so if I was in this situation it would likely take 15 minutes or more to get to the shutoff resulting in many more gallons worth of cleanup.
Which raises an interesting question does every adult and teen ager in the house know where the various shut off valves are? It probably is something anyone who is likley to be in the house alone should know. One might also write a brief description of these things as well. (Include where the electrical panels and main shutoffs (if not in the panels) would be located.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:41 PM   #1284
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And there it is! (well, it wasn't funny at the time, I'm sure!)
It wasn't that funny at the time. But you have to laugh or cry.

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I'm impressed, that's pretty fast work.

-ERD50
My wife judges my projects by the number of Doggone Its she can hear from the other room. So you'd be less impressed if you knew that this was about a 6 doggone it project. In addition to the usual dropped the tool or dropped the fastener type things, I also banged my funny bone on the toilet paper holder, and cut the back of my neck on the sharp point of the flush handle.

The problem with plumbing is that it's always in places that you can't reach.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:44 PM   #1285
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With my luck, once the valve was replaced, I would have found the original leak.
Lucky for me, the original leak was a very small one. I actually left it for the next day, because I wasn't in the mood to tempt fate again.

It was just a matter of tightening the screws that hold the toilet tank to the base.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:48 PM   #1286
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Slow But Steady
That was quick work. It was clever of you to break the valve while HD was open for business.
That was actually the most clever thing I did that night.

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This is the part that surprised me. I never lived in a house without a main shutoff inside the home. We have about 24" of snow on the ground right now so if I was in this situation it would likely take 15 minutes or more to get to the shutoff resulting in many more gallons worth of cleanup.
Interesting, but it makes sense.

I've only lived in California and Texas, but I've never had a house with a shut-off valve inside.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:51 PM   #1287
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Which raises an interesting question does every adult and teen ager in the house know where the various shut off valves are? It probably is something anyone who is likley to be in the house alone should know. One might also write a brief description of these things as well. (Include where the electrical panels and main shutoffs (if not in the panels) would be located.
By now, I've shown Debbie the main water valve. I should probably show her the main electric shut-off in the breaker box as well.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:56 PM   #1288
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Lucky for me, the original leak was a very small one. I actually left it for the next day, because I wasn't in the mood to tempt fate again.

It was just a matter of tightening the screws that hold the toilet tank to the base.

Hope yours is not like mine... all 3 commodes had leaks where you have within a years time frame... all 3 I had to replace the rubber gasket...

Not a terribly hard job, but you would be surprised how many gaskets there are and how they look alike.... and your old dried crushed one you bring with you looks nothing like what is in the store...
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:57 PM   #1289
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That was actually the most clever thing I did that night.



Interesting, but it makes sense.

I've only lived in California and Texas, but I've never had a house with a shut-off valve inside.
In Mi and In shutoff valves are inside, since the freeze line can be as deep as 48 inches (Detroit area). As a result water pipes have to be buried that deep so water lines come in thru the basement floor.
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Old 02-03-2016, 05:52 PM   #1290
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Came home from my hike yesterday and turned the heat up, made dinner, and found I wasn't warming up. So I went and turned the thermostat up.
That's when I noticed the temperature wasn't rising.
I opened the furnace cover and found the igniter wasn't glowing when the furnace ran through a cycle. I ran another cycle and saw a bright white glow when it got to the point the igniter gets its juice.
I spent a half hour removing the igniter then noticed I need to remove the bracket it attaches to instead. Oops, could have saved 25 minutes.
By then everything was closed, but luckily it only went down to 35 last night and the house stayed above 50 till morning.
This morning I spent an hour going to three different supply houses to find the part but I did find it! It only took ten minutes to attach the igniter to the bracket and install the bracket in the furnace. Ran it through a cycle to verify all was working and vacuumed the interior of the furnace.
Disaster averted and the repair only cost $24.80 in parts.
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:46 PM   #1291
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Came home from my hike yesterday and turned the heat up, made dinner, and found I wasn't warming up. So I went and turned the thermostat up.
That's when I noticed the temperature wasn't rising.
I opened the furnace cover and found the igniter wasn't glowing when the furnace ran through a cycle. I ran another cycle and saw a bright white glow when it got to the point the igniter gets its juice.
I spent a half hour removing the igniter then noticed I need to remove the bracket it attaches to instead. Oops, could have saved 25 minutes.
By then everything was closed, but luckily it only went down to 35 last night and the house stayed above 50 till morning.
This morning I spent an hour going to three different supply houses to find the part but I did find it! It only took ten minutes to attach the igniter to the bracket and install the bracket in the furnace. Ran it through a cycle to verify all was working and vacuumed the interior of the furnace.
Disaster averted and the repair only cost $24.80 in parts.
Your furnace may also have a flame sensor? Mine is the old standing pilot model, so I'm not 100% up on the igniter types.

In my case, I have a spare thermocouple on hand, since those are pretty cheap, and are a common failure. You might want to buy a spare of any of these items. Not only save you a service call, but you can fix it faster and save the running around. And probably get them cheaper on-line than a local supply house.

Congrats on getting it fixed - $25, some running round and a little effort is pretty good compared to what a service guy has to charge for this to make a living.

-ERD50
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:07 PM   #1292
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OK... finally 'fixed' the water hammer.... I do not know why it started, but I have had it for a few years... I did try draining the whole house and it was less, but still there... got worse, so I thought I would add some arrestor below the sinks upstairs...


Take a look at cr@p.... those stupid valves with the small metal hoses that are not separate.... you know, like they have on toilets... I checked the whole house and every faucet except the kitchen has them.... and the kitchen is a mess of pipes for some reason....

Sooo, decided to try and drain the pipes again.... but this time I did not open the faucet to the wet bar... hey... that acts like an arrestor.... since we do not use that sink I can just put some tape or something else there so the cleaners do not touch it!!! I might even take off the handle so nobody can use it...

Not a great fix, but solved the problem....
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:20 PM   #1293
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Keurig coffee maker quit making a full cup of coffee. A google search revealed it probably to be descaled. Used white vinegar and ran through several cycles. Flushed with water and now all is well. Until the next time.
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:34 PM   #1294
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Here's my quick attempt at a one-way squirrel door.

Chicken-wire completely blocking off the hole except for in the very center of the picture, there's a hole in the mesh. In front of the hole is a "door" of chicken wire, hinged on top (tied with dental floss), and dental floss is tied to the bottom of the door. The floss goes through screw-eyes and is weighed down. There are two weights (one outside the shot...not a very good picture for showing the mechanism). Theoretically, the squirrel will push through, but the door will shut behind it, closing off access. Not sure it will work, but it was pretty quick to build.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:38 PM   #1295
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Here's my quick attempt at a one-way squirrel door.

Chicken-wire completely blocking off the hole except for in the very center of the picture, there's a hole in the mesh. In front of the hole is a "door" of chicken wire, hinged on top (tied with dental floss), and dental floss is tied to the bottom of the door. The floss goes through screw-eyes and is weighed down. There are two weights (one outside the shot...not a very good picture for showing the mechanism). Theoretically, the squirrel will push through, but the door will shut behind it, closing off access. Not sure it will work, but it was pretty quick to build.
I hope it works for you. There's a TV commercial running recently that cracks me up (I have no idea what the product is), but a retired looking 'Mom' is talking on the phone with her adult son, rambling about the goings on there. Something like this, in a dry monotone:

"The squirrels are back in the attic again. And your Father won't hire an exterminator. He says it's personal this time."

I don't know why - it just cracks me up.

Ahhh, here it is - Geico!



-ERD50
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:15 PM   #1296
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Your furnace may also have a flame sensor? Mine is the old standing pilot model, so I'm not 100% up on the igniter types.



In my case, I have a spare thermocouple on hand, since those are pretty cheap, and are a common failure. You might want to buy a spare of any of these items. Not only save you a service call, but you can fix it faster and save the running around. And probably get them cheaper on-line than a local supply house.



Congrats on getting it fixed - $25, some running round and a little effort is pretty good compared to what a service guy has to charge for this to make a living.



-ERD50

Yes it does have a flame sensor. In fact I took that out and cleaned it before I even trouble shot the problem as it should be cleaned every year and has been the issue before. I'll order a spare from Amazon soon, that will be cheap insurance.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:02 AM   #1297
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The motor in my Eureka Bravo vacuum cleaner started making those horrible noises a few days ago. It is a used motor I bought 6 years ago for $15, and installed myself, so I got my money's worth out of it (not including labor, which is OK with me). When the original motor borked, ball bearings came out of it onto the rug. This time no bearings falling out yet, but an awful sound and the smell of something electrical getting way too hot. Gonna open it up and look around. Probably some inaccessible, factory-sealed motor bearing wearing out? Oh well, maybe I can get another used motor for $15 or so. But hoping it will be something fixable. Good to have this low stress project to occupy my time. And I have 2 other backup vacs to take over for the Eureka while I'm fixing it.
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:52 PM   #1298
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Motivated by this post I replaced 4 fluorescent tube lights, 2 each on two fixtures, with LEDs. It was not that difficult and I didn't burn down the house (my greatest fear). Even better, these lights are in the laundry room and closet, and they are always left on (I won't say by whom).

Now all I need is to find a way to dispose of the tubes.
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:18 PM   #1299
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Put them by the curbside with a label: FREE, only 100 hours of on time.
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:41 PM   #1300
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Motivated by this post I replaced 4 fluorescent tube lights, 2 each on two fixtures, with LEDs. It was not that difficult and I didn't burn down the house (my greatest fear). Even better, these lights are in the laundry room and closet, and they are always left on (I won't say by whom).

Now all I need is to find a way to dispose of the tubes.
I'm all over this! We've got a closet that has flickering on one fixture and the ballast is defunct on the other (that one's dark).
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