Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[zinger1457]

My Shark steam mop started spitting out water instead of steam. Way past any warranty so opened it up, it was pretty obvious the thermal fuse on the heater element was shot. Picked up a replacement fuse at Fry electronics for $2, installed it and it's up and running. Need to remember to take photos when opening up things for the first time to see how everything is laid out. Replacing the fuse required removing most of the internals, a little bit of a pain getting everything back in the right spot.

 

[Telly]

While I was on the RV trek, my son called to let me know that the pool pump quit. When I got home yesterday, it was the 1st thing I looked at. Nope, need a new pump. Just paid close to $1,500 (part+labor) to have a new one installed, as I would only save $100 to do it myself.

I replaced mine this spring. It had started to make some higher pitched squealy noises when it was cold. Also had a little intermittent leak between pump plate and pump body. I figured the output shaft bearing of the motor had worn enough to allow the impeller to rub against the bronze wear ring in the snout of the pump diffuser. Yup. Had small cracks in the impeller and the diffuser too, but nothing broken. Left-hand copper screw in the shaft end was about gone, ate away.

Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas. Parts available, though not a shaft seal for my old original style pump plate. Could not find a graphite shaft seal set that would for-sure work with the old plate. Sta-Rites solution is to replace the pump plate with the newer design, and a seal to fit that. New plate was $80. And new shaft seal, new impeller and diffuser, a brass specialty LH-thread screw, a couple O-rings, and a new motor. I think about $350 or so in parts.

I thought about replacing the motor bearings myself, but had a major problem - 4 long thin steel screws, like #8 and maybe 12" long, hold the motor end caps and shell together. At the motor's pump end, they thread into blind holes in the square end cap which is made of zinc. They were seized good. No way to get at them to try to use penetrant. Snapped real easy with the long thin screws. So New motor.
Old plastic motor base was broken too, and not one that was listed with the pump setup. Luckily was able to find a Sta-Rite part # on the base, it was a low-profile base for a spa motor. Was able to order up a new one still.

If I ever have to replace the whole pump (housing with hair & lint pot), it will be a total cut out and start over 2" PVC job as there isn't room to cut and add a coupling everywhere. Lots of Tees, valves, backwash valve, etc. all solvent welded together, relatively tight spacing.

 

[Walt34]

PS. I will keep the failed pump, and will do a post-mortem analysis and report on my finding.

Since you have the old one even if the repairs are past your skill set it may well be worthwhile to have it repaired given the cost of a new one.

 

[NW-Bound]

I checked, and these pumps were not repairable. That is, only the factory can repair it, but they do not offer that service. As is true with most electronics nowadays, one cannot get the proprietary electronic parts for replacement.

 

[NW-Bound]

I just spent the last 2 hours fixing the leak between the toilet tank and the toilet bowl. How tough could that be? I have done that before.

Remove the two long bolts holding the tank to the bowl, then install the new doughnut gasket at the tank-to-bowl interface.

Doggone bolts were 25+ year old and corroded, so of course had to be broken off, but only if one could get to them. Then, the doggone doughnut gasket would not seal, and it leaked just as bad as the old one that completely fell apart when removed. Do they even know how to make a good gasket anymore?

After removing and reinstalling the tank for the 3rd time, I remembered that I still had a roll of butyl tape. Two turns of the tape around the tank outlet, and it seemed to be holding.

I am sorry I exposed my wife to so much cussing and swearing. I never cared about plumbing repair, except for outdoor sprinkler piping, but this is getting more and more aggravating.

I can't take this no more. One of these days, I will say "Screw it", and call a plumber for any leak, no matter how minor.

 

[Walt34]

One of these days, I will say "Screw it", and call a plumber for any leak, no matter how minor.

I passed that point some time ago. One of the luxuries of retirement is having enough money to do that. I really, really, hate working on plumbing!

 

[ArkTinkerer]

I passed that point some time ago. One of the luxuries of retirement is having enough money to do that. I really, really, hate working on plumbing!

I could give up digging in sewage but most plumbing is so minor its not only cheaper but way faster to just do it myself. I hate waiting around for people that show up late or not at all. Ticks me off even more when they do a poor job of the repair! Somehow I'm more forgiving if I'm the one that screws it up...

 

[sengsational]

I passed that point some time ago. One of the luxuries of retirement is having enough money to do that. I really, really, hate working on plumbing!

For me, if I can manage it, I still like to fix pretty much everything! The reason is not so much to save money but since I have the time, I might as well give it a shot. Part of the reason, also, is that it gives me great pleasure to know that I was able to knock out that job! Of course if the job requires specialized tooling, then I'm less likely to proceed on my own. As to waiting for the repairman to arrive and having the repairman do a bad job, that also is incentive for me to take on the repair responsibilities.

 

[REWahoo]

For me, if I can manage it, I still like to fix pretty much everything! The reason is not so much to save money but since I have the time, I might as well give it a shot. Part of the reason, also, is that it gives me great pleasure to know that I was able to knock out that job! Of course if the job requires specialized tooling, then I'm less likely to proceed on my own. As to waiting for the repairman to arrive and having the repairman do a bad job, that also is incentive for me to take on the repair responsibilities.

+1

I do 80%+ of the repairs around here, calling the professionals in only for things beyond my moderate level of expertise. I don't attempt anything beyond very minor repairs to the AC or the aerobic septic system. I almost always handle my own plumbing repairs but had to call [-]in an airstrike[/-] a plumber when some major work was required to replace the piping to a bathtub drain. Watching what he had to go through to remove the old pipes helped (but didn't entirely) take away the sting of the bill.

 

[NW-Bound]

Well, despite my earlier threat, being a dyed-in-the-wool DIY'er, I will continue to do my own plumbing repair.

And I spoke way too soon, as DW just informed me that we had a leak under the kitchen sink. And it seemed to come from the RO filter, she said.

ARGHHH!

Learn from my mistake, my friends. Fear the plumbing god, and never speak ill of him.

Must log off now, and go get the tool box. I want to go RV'ing again (sigh!)...

 

[imoldernu]

OMG... Plumbing... The memories still send shivers down my spine.

As a totally uninformed neophyte, back in 1962, we bought an older home, and I proceeded to install a complete hot water heating system in a two story house.
How naive... but incredibly, actually did the full installation in 7 small rooms. All alone. It worked...
But...
A week after completion, the long copper pipe run in the basement began to leak at one of my solder joints. That triggered a mind shattering nightmare of trying to fix the leak. From joint to joint, floor to floor, room to room... broken joints, leaks, and eventually a complete rebuild from the furnace throughout the house.
Currently, I do this type of repair with electrical tape.

Vee grow too soon old, und too late shmart.

 

[sengsational]

Here is a plumbing job that all of us can handle! I noticed the toilet running almost silently and very slowly, but not shutting off all the way. When I opened the lid, I saw what you see in the picture. Who can guess what I did to solve the problem?

Hint: look at the water level...a bit hard to see in the picture.

 

[samclem]

As a totally uninformed neophyte, back in 1962, we bought an older home, and I proceeded to install a complete hot water heating system in a two story house.

You'd be a big fan of the new PEX pipe and connections. I finally bought the special tool needed to "cinch" the PEX connectors (I'd been using the "Sharkbite" connectors successfully, but these are cheaper and, I think, might last longer). So much faster, easier, and more forgiving than copper!

 

[samclem]

Hint: look at the water level...a bit hard to see in the picture.

Bent the float rod down?

 

[sengsational]

Bent the float rod down?

That was my first inclination. But there is an adjustment screw in the upper left of that photograph. I simply turned that screw a little bit to adjust the float down. Didn't even need to use a tool!

 

[ArkTinkerer]

One thing that has changed for me, or maybe world has changed, is that special tools are easier to rent/borrow. Most auto parts stores have free loaner tools (and many of those are useful for things other than cars). Rental places will now deliver a backhoe to your property and show you the basics. It can be a blast to run one of these. You can also do a tremendous amount of damage much faster with a backhoe than a pick and shovel!

I used a backhoe to clear out half a lot of trees. Got stuck and had to call a wrecker to pull me out. Even so, a lot cheaper than paying someone, I got some other things done with it, and I really enjoyed it even with getting stuck. Later rented one to do some prep work for a couple driveways (mine and a rental house). Learn a skill and it keeps on paying.

Latest plumbing escapades I'm paying someone to do because the cost of damaging a city main with a backhoe is more than I want to pay.

 

[NW-Bound]

I have replaced the toilet float valves in my home over the years, and all of them are now of the following type, which is superior.

About the RO filter leak that I just fixed, it turned out that it was due to a broken plastic clamp.

This was the chintzy clamp that pressed the filter discharge tube against a hole drilled into the sink tailpipe, where the waste water from the RO filter drained into. I bought a metal clamp meant for 1-1/2" electrical conduits, and concocted a replacement. No leak so far.

 

[Walt34]

We received a much higher than normal water bill so I went after the usual suspect, a toilet running, so did the usual food-coloring-in-the-tank diagnostic. Yup, the master bath toilet was running, completely silent.

A flapper valve is one plumbing job I think I can handle without hurting myself or anything else.

 

[ls99]

I have replaced the toilet float valves in my home over the years, and all of them are now of the following type, which is superior.

About the RO filter leak that I just fixed, it turned out that it was due to a broken plastic clamp.

This was the chintzy clamp that pressed the filter discharge tube against a hole drilled into the sink tailpipe, where the waste water from the RO filter drained into. I bought a metal clamp meant for 1-1/2" electrical conduits, and concocted a replacement. No leak so far.

Except they don't work at all for gravity water feed toilet. They never turn off the water flow. Need old kind with a few modifications.

 

[Texas Proud]

My latest repair....

The heater to our jacuzzi.....


Somehow the wire was melted!!! Yep, the wire to the heater was arched into two pieces... got new romex (made for outside... the old was indoor)... took the face off the timer and saw that the ground was not connected... hmmm, OK... let's just hook it up like it was.... take off the short melted piece at the bottom and see... black to black... red to white and white to ground... another hmmmm..... but what the heck... results... nothing....


DW said 'you got your one chance, now we call a professional'..... she has learned over the years not to let me keep working on some things if she wants them right away....


The 'professional' comes out and takes apart the various components and determines that the power supply was blown... did a complete rewire and added some weather proofing on the connections... cost a bit over $200....

 

[urn2bfree]

Our GE dryer stopped heating in February. GE repaired for $285. Now 8 months later, not heating up again. The heater package is under warranty--$45... But the labor is not! I am foing to,ask them to send me the new parts and see if I can do it myself...though I have ZERO experience...on Youtube it looks pretty easy...but what a joke of a warranty.


Sent from my iPad using Early Retirement Forum

 

[NW-Bound]

My dryer is 30 years old, and I have yet to replace the heater. It is not at all difficult to replace, but if yours burnt out so soon there might be a root cause such as restricted airflow.

There are usually thermal cutout switches on the heater for fire protection, but if the heating element runs at a higher-than-normal operating temperature, that will shorten its life.

 

[daylatedollarshort]

I bought a solar light that never worked. My husband asked if we could just throw it out. I took one last look and it has a plastic tab on the battery I forgot to remove after I bought it. The light works great - easiest "repair" ever.

 

[ls99]

Couple of days ago DW said the freezer has a lot of ice in it. No not in the ice bin.

Removed bottom access grille, looked and groaned. Could not see the coils from all the crud. Got vacuum cleaner, long hose attached to it, got most of it out. Not having a the fridge repairman's special cleaning nozzle with offset end intake. I ran 40 feet of air hose from the compressor in the garage and said to DW, kitchen will need cleaning after this.

Doing a push-pull with air hose and vacuum got the rest of the crud out. What a mess.

Then initiated manual defrost several times and a heat gun assist, got the ice out.

It is now working fine.

 

[Telly]

I wonder if your air hose & vacuum routine dislodged a grown crud plug in the evaporator drain line down to the pan by the condensor.