Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[sengsational]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51notout A/C stopped around midnight last night. Didn’t sleep well in 80F house. Took a look this morning and nudged the fan blade with a thin stick. The fan started up. That indicated that the start/run capacitor was failing. Stopped by the local supply company and picked a new one up for $25 including tax. Five minutes to disassemble and anther 5 to install and reassemble. Switched the fuses and outside breaker back on and it work like a charm. Even ran quieter. Saved a call out fee and the time waiting. A productive day [emoji3] Edit to add: I was careful to discharge the old capacitor as it can give a powerful shock. (Used a rubber handled screwdriver across the terminals. C to Fan and C to Herm)

A few weeks ago DW noticed the fan on the A/C wasn't spinning, and it was fine just an hour earlier. Iaid my hand on the fan motor and it was hot, so I flipped the breaker and reported "no prob, I have a spare capacitor". I swapped it out, and we were in business again. DW said "you're amazing". I said "I know"

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelover You know it worked when you hear the CRACK!

I've shorted many a cap, but never get the spark. Microwaves come with a diode now that bleeds the cap. I'm not sure where the electrons went on the A/C cap, but they haven't been numerous enough to spark (ime).

[Boho]

I considered a brand name class 00 insulating glove for $45.20 and one of the cheap no-name brands for about $20. I even considered wrapping the handle of the screwdriver with a household latex glove. But I think I'll get an $8 insulated screwdriver and tape something conductive to the tip.

Meanwhile, my desktop computer finally died after months of warnings about a possible CMOS battery issue, so I'm ordering the battery and screwdriver at the same time, after I open the AC again to confirm the capacitor type and that I can get to it.

[Boho]

How would I dispose of the capacitor if the protection mechanism kicked in and the terminals disconnected from the internals of the capacitor? My building uses a garbage compactor.

[travelover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho How would I dispose of the capacitor if the protection mechanism kicked in and the terminals disconnected from the internals of the capacitor? My building uses a garbage compactor.

It is not dangerous, just toss it.

[Mr._Graybeard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard I'm in the middle of an a/c repair on my Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter, so heavily into DiY work on German vehicles. I'm about 75% done with the fix and will add to this thread when I'm sure I've succeeded (otherwise, fuggedaboutit).

HAHA!! I got the aircon working again in the Sprinter. The condenser sprung a leak and let all the refrigerant out. I bought a cheap vacuum pump (already had AC manifold and gauges), got a new condenser and did the swap. The only stumbling block I ran into was some galvanic corrosion that seized the low-side hose fitting to the condenser. In retrospect I should have simply bought a new hose, but instead I cranked out the condenser nipple with an impact wrench and spent an hour picking out the residual aluminum that remained stuck in the hose fitting.

It didn't chill quite as much as I would have liked at first, but I did a test of the engine cooling fan clutch and determined it was pretty weak. A new fan clutch got the cooler going as it should.

I'm really stoked that I did a successful AC job.

[aja8888]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard HAHA!! I got the aircon working again in the Sprinter. The condenser sprung a leak and let all the refrigerant out. I bought a cheap vacuum pump (already had AC manifold and gauges), got a new condenser and did the swap. The only stumbling block I ran into was some galvanic corrosion that seized the low-side hose fitting to the condenser. In retrospect I should have simply bought a new hose, but instead I cranked out the condenser nipple with an impact wrench and spent an hour picking out the residual aluminum that remained stuck in the hose fitting. It didn't chill quite as much as I would have liked at first, but I did a test of the engine cooling fan clutch and determined it was pretty weak. A new fan clutch got the cooler going as it should. I'm really stoked that I did a successful AC job.

Nice work! I assume you ran a vac pump on it to get the air/moisture out before charging. Sometime the receiver/drier needs to be changed if the system is open for a while.

I just replaced my Mustang's compressor and drier. Now it's nice and cold here in very humid Houston.

[Telly]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho I considered a brand name class 00 insulating glove for $45.20 and one of the cheap no-name brands for about $20. I even considered wrapping the handle of the screwdriver with a household latex glove. But I think I'll get an $8 insulated screwdriver and tape something conductive to the tip.

All you need is the common regular steel-shaft plastic-handled screwdriver. In fact, you could even use a screwdriver from the 1930s, the wood-handled type, if you didn't lean or touch any body part against the steel chassis of the unit while you shorted each cap terminal to common. And even in that case, if the wood handle did not have a steel end cap connected to the tip, or if the handle wasn't waterlogged, even that would work fine.

But if you are going to work on a KV entrance panel in a very large commercial building, then you should upgrade from the common screwdriver

[Boho]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Telly All you need is the common regular steel-shaft plastic-handled screwdriver. In fact, you could even use a screwdriver from the 1930s, the wood-handled type, if you didn't lean or touch any body part against the steel chassis of the unit while you shorted each cap terminal to common. And even in that case, if the wood handle did not have a steel end cap connected to the tip, or if the handle wasn't waterlogged, even that would work fine. But if you are going to work on a KV entrance panel in a very large commercial building, then you should upgrade from the common screwdriver

I'm too scared for that. I'm ordering "1000-Volt Insulated Long-Nosed Pliers" to pull the plugs after I short it. The plugs are kind of in the way and if I don't see sparks or hear pops I'm not willing to assume it's shorted.

The tank isn't looking so good either, but it's probably been like that for years.

[Time2]

It looks like that tank has an oil stain. I wonder if oil is seeping out through the rusted metal?

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho I'm too scared for that. I'm ordering "1000-Volt Insulated Long-Nosed Pliers" to pull the plugs after I short it. The plugs are kind of in the way and if I don't see sparks or hear pops I'm not willing to assume it's shorted. ....

You are way, way, way, way over-thinking this. You commented earlier about worrying that an insulated screwdriver might have a blade that doesn't conduct enough. None of this matters. Any old plastic handled screwdriver will work.

You don't need anything special at all, just some basic precautions in case the capacitor has a charge on it (and it might not, most have bleeders on them, and it probably shut off during the low voltage portion of the cycle.

A 220V circuit has ~ 300 V peak (if it hit it just right, remember, this is AC, not a DC rectified circuit). A 300V circuit doesn't need any special insulation, and old plastic screwdriver is fine. And if you want to be super picky, follow the procedure of clipping the blade to ground, then shorting each lead and across the leads. That means the blade will never be more than a few volts above ground (I've done this to test engine ignitions, I didn't get a shock, and that's tens of thousands of volts).

As mentioned, as extra precaution, and good basic practice, keep one hand in your pocket, and don't touch the chassis or other ground with your body. You don't need special insulated shoes, or special gloves, just don't come in direct contact with metal.

Live stream it, we will all watch as this becomes an absolute non-event. And if you do everything wrong, and keep it plugged in and manage to get a shock (even that's not a certainty, even with it plugged in), we will call 911 for you.

You will be fine, just do it!

edit - if you can't get the screwdriver in there across the terminals, just use the screwdriver to shove some aluminum foil in there. Just get them shorted is all.

-ERD50

[ls99]

^^^ What he said.
In the late sixties I worked on tube and CRT TVs. Around 10000 volts to CRT. Gotten zapped many times. Yes it did get my attention. Yet still here.

[ls99]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Time2 It looks like that tank has an oil stain. I wonder if oil is seeping out through the rusted metal?

That's a rusted compressor base, if the oil is leaking, likely the refrigerant is long gone.

[Sunset]

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Originally Posted by ERD50 You are way, way, way, way over-thinking this. ..... Live stream it, we will all watch as this becomes an absolute non-event. And if you do everything wrong, and keep it plugged in and manage to get a shock (even that's not a certainty, even with it plugged in), we will call 911 for you. You will be fine, just do it! edit - if you can't get the screwdriver in there across the terminals, just use the screwdriver to shove some aluminum foil in there. Just get them shorted is all. -ERD50

.... now OP will be terrified...

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Originally Posted by ls99 .... In the late sixties I worked on tube and CRT TVs. Around 10000 volts to CRT. Gotten zapped many times. Yes it did get my attention. Yet still here.

I used to pull apart very old TV's , just to see what made them work...
Was cautious of them, as I read out the high voltage possible.
Never got a shock, but was amazed at the weight and strength of CRT tubes.

[Boho]

Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over.

I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.

[braumeister]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I used to pull apart very old TV's , just to see what made them work... Was cautious of them, as I read out the high voltage possible. Never got a shock, but was amazed at the weight and strength of CRT tubes.

They're so heavy because they have a lot of lead in them, to protect you from the radiation. That's one reason they're not allowed in most landfills.

[aja8888]

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Originally Posted by Boho Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over. I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.

230V @ 7 amps...I can't even run my shop air compressor at that low of a current draw.

You won't see the load amps just discharging the capacitor. Just drop a screwdriver over the contacts and be done with it.

Or just call an electrician and have him replace the capacitor. it's a 5 minute job.

[Boho]

I think my o-ring choice for the kitchen faucet would be controversial too. There are all kinds of rubber additives. Some make it not suitable for contact with tap water, others make the rubber more slippery, requiring less silicone grease when used for a spout that moves, etc. I chose the Delta "Pair of O-Rings" for $5.16. Things I like in the description are "Self-lubricating" and "Original Delta repair part enhances the product's longevity" and the name brand.


What I rejected was the majority of what I saw on Amazon as well as the Hillman O-rings (12 for $6.71) from my local big box store. Here's the Hillman description:

Quote:

1-1/16 in. O.D x 13/16 in. I.D x 1/8 in. Thickness Neoprene 'O' Ring (12-Pack) O-rings are one of the simplest, yet most engineered, precise, and useful seal designs ever developed. O-rings are ideal for myriad applications. DIY projects, plumbing services, and contracting work are made easier with Hillman O-rings. Sizes are specified by the inside diameter and the cross section diameter (thickness). 1/8 in. thick Size - 13/16 in. x 1-1/16 in. Fits various manufacturers Rubber material

I don't like the wording of all that and I don't trust the material or the company. Paying the $2.58 each instead of the 56 cents each is a no brainer for me even though I hate that it's probably way over priced. I currently have a spare washer on my kitchen sink's spout with no lube and I think it should be way smoother than it is even without lube. I think the spare was from an aerator that didn't swing back and forth like a kitchen spout. I need to see "self lubricating" or words to that effect in the product description.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over. I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.

Stop it.

That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works.

Your A/C draws 7 amps, because that is what it is designed to do when connected to 230 V. That has nothing to do with that capacitor, and your body, while the AC is unplugged.

That's like saying you should not go into your building, because the building is thousands of times heavier than the weight that would crush you. It's just not relevant, it is a misapplication of information that you do not understand.

-ERD50

[Boho]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 Stop it. That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works. Your A/C draws 7 amps, because that is what it is designed to do when connected to 230 V. That has nothing to do with that capacitor, and your body, while the AC is unplugged. That's like saying you should not go into your building, because the building is thousands of times heavier than the weight that would crush you. It's just not relevant, it is a misapplication of information that you do not understand. -ERD50

I know the AC isn't the capacitor, but the capacitor didn't have an amps rating and someone here said nothing residential could kill you.

A pet peeve of mine is when they say a certain shock, like from a stun gun, can't kill you. People die just sitting in their chairs because they have a bad heart or their body is weak from something. Just the fright could kill people.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho I know the AC isn't the capacitor, but the capacitor didn't have an amps rating and someone here said nothing residential could kill you. A pet peeve of mine is when they say a certain shock, like from a stun gun, can't kill you. People die just sitting in their chairs because they have a bad heart or their body is weak from something. Just the fright could kill people.

Then hire an electrician, and be done with it.

I estimate the chances of the electrician being a serial killer, and deciding you are his next victim, are higher than the chances of harming yourself from the charge (if any) in that capacitor if you just take the most basic of precautions. Or did I just add to your "things I'm afraid of" list?

-ERD50