Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[grasshopper]

As far as septics go, I have a pine tree so big I can't get my arms around it, 5 feet from my drain field. I get some serious needle drop every spring. Ms G thinks I don't water the tree enough.

 

[MichaelB]

Replaced the brake light bulb in DWs car. Those little plastic rivets in the trunk are a real pita.

 

[John Galt III]

Noticed a few pin holes have appeared on the 'weed eater' push lawn mower deck. The Briggs and Stratton motor is still perfect, of course. I guess I'll clean it up and spray something on it, hoping to eek out a few more months of usability. Not going to go to the trouble of cutting out a piece and welding new metal in. Last time I had a rusting out lawn mower, I tried to get it welded by a lawn mower repair shop, but ended up donating it to a different lawn mower repair shop. Too bad you can't just buy a new deck for $30 or so.

 

[JoeWras]

Tree roots and septic can be compared to cancer and smoking. The incidence of problems is higher, but maybe you'll get lucky.

And recall septic is a group of pipes. If the roots zone in on one, the others may be left alone. And you'll be fine. Root troubles are wierd. My dad, a plumber, saw it all. Actually, in those days before cameras, he did most work by feel. I used to love watching him pull back the rod with small root bushes attached. Amazing.

 

[Time2]

I'm not overly careful with 110 AC, but I probably would have had the breaker off already if I was drilling towards some wiring. But when you heard the pop and smelled it, that was a good sign to stop drilling

I hear you, I needed the power on to make my drill work. It stopped exactly when it hit the wire! ;-)
I didn't remember I had the wires so close to the bottom of the sheshed.

Next I'm going to install 48" LED lights in my shed, I'll need to install some new outlets. I moved a small milling machine into my shed and someday I hope to get a lathe. I had a smal Harbor Freight lathe, but the hurricane blew off a couple of clear panels of the roof and it got wet and rusted. I want a bigger one so rather then spend time cleaning it up, I sold it cheap and let someone else clean it up.

 

[Koogie]

Noticed a few pin holes have appeared on the 'weed eater' push lawn mower deck. The Briggs and Stratton motor is still perfect, of course. I guess I'll clean it up and spray something on it, hoping to eek out a few more months of usability. Not going to go to the trouble of cutting out a piece and welding new metal in. Last time I had a rusting out lawn mower, I tried to get it welded by a lawn mower repair shop, but ended up donating it to a different lawn mower repair shop. Too bad you can't just buy a new deck for $30 or so.

Or do what I did when the holes finally got big enough and stuff starting flying out of the hole past my ear !

Pop rivet some sheet metal over the hole (cut up flashing in my case) hit it with the rattle can and go back to ignoring the problem.

 

[Time2]

Replaced the brake light bulb in DWs car. Those little plastic rivets in the trunk are a real pita.

I just got done replacing the left front turn signal bulb on our GMC van. It turns out very simple, just push a simple plastic clip on the lens assembly and it slides out. However the plastic clip is now 13 years old and is showing some stress cracks, hope I don't have to change the bulb to many times in the next ten years!

 

[JoeWras]

Don't ask what happens when you stupidly go wild with a framing nailer on the outside wall that contains the main breaker panel.

Let's just say a nail through a main breaker is an "interesting" event.

Map your electric before you do anything.

 

[sengsational]

It stopped exactly when it hit the wire! ;-)

At least you had a safety interlock in effect.

 

[skipro33]

Don't ask what happens when you stupidly go wild with a framing nailer on the outside wall that contains the main breaker panel.

Let's just say a nail through a main breaker is an "interesting" event.

Map your electric before you do anything.

There is supposed to be a metal plate over the stud where wires are run through walls.

 

[brett]

Hooked up the existing water line to our new fridge. The store charge to hook it up was a flat $130.

Reviewed youtube instructions for the specific fridge. Examined the connection area when it was delivered. Went to Home Depot to get the right connector. $2. part.

Done in five minutes. Checked twice over the next week to make sure there was no leakage. No problems.

 

[Time2]

Don't ask what happens when you stupidly go wild with a framing nailer on the outside wall that contains the main breaker panel.

Let's just say a nail through a main breaker is an "interesting" event.

Map your electric before you do anything.

Yes! My shed is all open walls, so I can see everything.
SIL had a small leak under the kitchen sink, it didn't really make any sense with where the hot and cold pipes were. It turned out, a screw had puntured the drain pipe in the wall and made just a small leak.

During rebuilding after the hurricane, a contractor put two nails through the same water pipe in my garage.

 

[Sunset]

Hooked up the existing water line to our new fridge. The store charge to hook it up was a flat $130.

Reviewed youtube instructions for the specific fridge. Examined the connection area when it was delivered. Went to Home Depot to get the right connector. $2. part.

Done in five minutes. Checked twice over the next week to make sure there was no leakage. No problems.

A really great return on your effort

 

[Koogie]

There is supposed to be a metal plate over the stud where wires are run through walls.

I don't believe that is completely accurate ?

I think nailing plates only have to be put in when the wire run is too close to the nailing face of the stud (under 1.25"). I also think a lot of guys put them in when there is a notch out for electrical or plumbing. But, then, I have my own opinion about people that generally do notch outs....

 

[JoeWras]

I don't believe that is completely accurate ?

I think nailing plates only have to be put in when the wire run is too close to the nailing face of the stud (under 1.25"). I also think a lot of guys put them in when there is a notch out for electrical or plumbing. But, then, I have my own opinion about people that generally do notch outs....

The nailing plates are helpful. I'm seeing contractors put them up almost as a matter of course, even if the wire is through the center of the stud.

That wasn't what I was talking about.

Think differently. What about if you are outside the home, putting a layer of siding up over an older layer? Are you hitting the studs? Or did your helper somehow get misdirected and shoot a column of nails exactly in the middle BETWEEN the studs. I mean, they are on 16" centers, but accidentally in the middle.

Now imagine the main breaker panel. Where does it go? Between the studs. What's the on back of that panel? Exterior sheathing and siding. What happens if some bozo shoots a 2" nail through the back of the box, perfectly centered? You hit the wire bundle, a bus bar, or a breaker, or the main breaker. What happens then? Nothing good...

When nailing things on the outside of an old house, you especially need situational awareness. It's more than electric. A/C, plumbing supply, etc.

 

[Koogie]

That wasn't what I was talking about.

I know.. that's why I was responding to someone else about something else... (his picture)..

 

[JoeWras]

I know.. that's why I was responding to someone else about something else... (his picture)..

Whoops, I think I was one too far in the queue of responses.

 

[John Galt III]

Or do what I did when the holes finally got big enough and stuff starting flying out of the hole past my ear !

Pop rivet some sheet metal over the hole (cut up flashing in my case) hit it with the rattle can and go back to ignoring the problem.

Thanks for that idea! Or, since I don't have a rivet gun, maybe I'll try cutting a piece out of an aluminum can and gluing it over the holes.

 

[bjorn2bwild]

Thanks for that idea! Or, since I don't have a rivet gun, maybe I'll try cutting a piece out of an aluminum can and gluing it over the holes.

If the holes are not too big, another approach would be to prep the surface with a drill powered wire or abrasive wheel and Bondo. The fiberglass reinforced stuff is harder to work with but adds strength.

 

[Sunset]

Thanks for that idea! Or, since I don't have a rivet gun, maybe I'll try cutting a piece out of an aluminum can and gluing it over the holes.

And keep your eye open for someone throwing out their mower, as often the deck is fine

 

[davismills]

Replaced the pump assembly on my Generac pressure washer.

 

[NW-Bound]

I just fixed my air fryer. Well, not quite as I still have to wait for a replacement part, but it is back in use.

Last night, while being used the air fryer just quit. Poof! The light went out. Told my wife it looked like the internal thermal fuse gave up the ghost.

Today, it took me 1/2 hour to figure out how to take the thing apart. In hindsight, it should have been obvious by inspection how the thing was put together, but I was a bit slow today.

Found the thermal fuse immediately. Yep, it has opened up, as measured with an ohmmeter. I cut out the fuse to bypass it temporarily. Put the thing back together, and it was working again.

Now, this type of safety thermal fuse often fails on its own, but it was also possible that the fryer was overheating somehow. To test that the temperature control of the fryer still worked, I set the temperature to the lowest level at 180F, and verified that the fryer turned the heater off when the temperature was reached. Raised the setting to 250F, and verified that the heater was turned back on, then off again later. So, it was most likely that the thermal fuse failed by itself, as these often do.

Now, to order a new one, I looked at the marking on the fuse. What the heck is this "172C"? That's only 342F. The fryer's setting goes up to 400F, which is 204C. Could it be that the manufacturer allowed for the location of the fuse?

I ordered 180C parts. Cost was $7 for 5 pieces, shipped from NY by first-class mail. Or $6 for 10 from Hong Kong. I chose NY.

This common "bullet" thermal fuse looks like this (image from Amazon).

 

[aja8888]

NW-Bound: You said:

I ordered 180C parts. Cost was $7 for 5 pieces, shipped from NY by first-class mail. Or $6 for 10 from Hong Kong. I chose NY.

You can't buy this fuse locally? Wouldn't Fry's carry it (if you have one nearby)?

Just curious.....

 

[NW-Bound]

NW-Bound: You said:

You can't buy this fuse locally? Wouldn't Fry's carry it (if you have one nearby)?

Just curious.....

It totally escaped my mind to check out the local Fry's Electronics.

I used to go to the store all the time, but ever since this Covid have been there only once. The store was deserted, with only a half-dozen workers for a vast space. There were only 2 or 3 customers besides myself browsing. The shelves that used to overflow with merchandise were mostly bare, as they did not bother to restock. Most of the lights were turned off, apparently in an effort to save costs. It was very sad.

I just went on the Web site to check out what they carried. The closest temperature rating they had was 170C, but it was out of stock, along with all other temperatures. The store is nothing but an empty shell there.

 

[braumeister]

The store was deserted, with only a half-dozen workers for a vast space. There were only 2 or 3 customers besides myself browsing. The shelves that used to overflow with merchandise were mostly bare, as they did not bother to restock. Most of the lights were turned off, apparently in an effort to save costs. It was very sad.

Exactly what I found on my last visit to a Fry’s store. I could scarcely believe it.